Zs-ondabrain

in case you still havent found it, it looks like this. It has a protective sleeve over the what used to be white single terminal plug, It goes into a big white wire then into the harness that goes to the fusebox.

Mine did the same damn thing, glad to help when I can. Dave.

I'm not too sure on the 73' but on my late 70' the inline fuse is in the wad of wires that is located to the rear right of the center console. to the left of the heater motor, below the radio, just above the trani hump. All those are the same location, NOT many locations. the fuse holder is white with possibly a blue wire in it????? try that. Dave

I don't have a calculator handy but if I remember correctly, even if the L.E.D. is rated at 100,000 hours the total for being on 24/7, 365 days a year is still over 10 years and who the hell leaves their lights on for that long, At 12 hours a day it's over 20+ years at 3 hours a day, it's over 80 years. Ponder if you dare, Dave. P.S. Don't forget that the manufacturer does'nt calculate in the automotive variences like (vibration, moisture, voltage and current spikes, handling (grease and dirt from your hands) and stuff like that. The 100,000 hour life is under perfect testing conditions, like in a vaccum or a lab. More pondering for ya.

If you still can't get the nut out, Try pushing on her stomach or tickling her..........

The yellow Z in this picture has 20 percent on it it looks pretty dark fron the outside but you can see out of the car just fine. this is the only pic I got at the moment, the car is at my brothers house.

I've personally never seen the two #'s match. A VIN number is like a serial #. A car is a car and an engine is an engine. They can't have the same numbers. Am I correct guys???

I'm confused Mike, I thought almost all of the L-series had an off-set key so it was next to impossible to do a 180

and here's the add on E-bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7948823698&category=38634

I found them on accident and checked them out. They are Dellorto's and that looks like a cannon manifold. What is the best triple setup for the money for my 240 with a soon to be 2.8 (not sure what head to use) 6-into-1 header w/ 2.5'' pipe. stage 2 cam. and should I use an electric fuel pump? forgot to tell ya, they are at $600.00 at the moment

Would relic be a usable term??

I actually wanted a pl/510 for a long time but never got around to buying one. I did own a 78' a10/510 but thats a completely different beast.

Thanks Mike, I feel so much better about myself now.

I was born 4/21/71, My Z was born 8/70, so she's got 8 months on me. Its ok though, I like older women. Especially when they let me drive and go where I tell them to go. She turned 34 last August. So does that mean she'll be a classic or an antique next August?? And even better yet, what will I be classified as?????? :nervous: Dave.

Yes, the led's do emit a narrowed beam but it does widen out as the lighted surface gets further away. Being as how the lights are behind my head and focused forward, towards the dash, they make a better map light than the original. The stock map light is good if the object being viewed is on your lap or below the light. The new leds allow me to hold up the object being viewed the same way I normally read and also help me keep my eyes on the road. TexasZ, I've gone ballistic before, but I DO have my limits. I would never disscrace My 240 with something that U.G.L.Y. The L.E.D.'s in the overhead plastic trim in my Z are virtually invisible until turned on. They only protrude out of the plastic about an 1/8 of an inch. Also, my clear L.E.D.'s, when in the off position, look like they are black because the rear of the led is covered with black hot glue. Kinfish and all others who purchased a harness from me, Thank you for the compliments and your welcome for the harness. I'm a firm believer in "what goes around, comes around" If I were to make a crappy product, Than I'd expect the same from others. I want what every guy in the world wants, Elisabeth Hurley Just kiddin, not really, But Seriously, "I want as much good stuff as possible for as little as possible" Johnny, Just HAD to bring up the Disco thing, Did'nt ya? Carl, as for decoration, You can only really see them if they are on and YES, they do look cool but My Z is a decoration all in itself, It does'nt need any help there. Dave.

Like he said, It's a long slow process, especially when your as picky as we are. We want our final product to be up to everyones best expectations. The final product should be something that we will be proud to put our names on and you will be proud to put on your Z. We are our own worst enemies when it comes to quality control. I personally think and hope Will feels the same when I say that "we are not so much in it for the money but rather the glory of having a line of items that we feel confident selling or distributing to people whom we've come to trust and help over the years" We are doing our best to come up with a final product that will meet or exceed both ours and your expectations. We want them to be as classy as the original but up to date and a better product for our Z in the long run, especially if the product helps the car not melt, be seen and make it stand out in the crowd of cars from days gone by. Remember, there are plenty of classic cars out there, and plenty of aftermarket parts for those cars. But how many chevy and ford owners can say that alot of the parts that really stand out were made for Z-car owners by Z-car owners? And not some company out to make a quick buck. Please be patient, Rome was'nt built in a day and niether are good Z-car parts. Dave. Here are a few samples of things I'm working on

Give me a call, you know the number and I AM at home. Any word from gary or is his head still up his A$$. give me a ring.

I usually start at the local wrecking yards when I only need a couple of plugs. If I know i'm going to need a whole bunch, then I go to the local automotive electrical shop or alternator/starter repair shop. Trying to find the exact plug on-line can be a pain in the arse, trust me been there, done that, hated it. When I get used plugs I start by removing the old wires and connectors to acess the damage and see if I need new terminals. then I clean em up and load new wires into the plugs.

I'll be waiting but things have slowed down around here, almost to a dead stop. I've started to focus on the car itself, rather than what to upgrade. Little leaks, winter cleaning, had a nail in the tire yesterday, stuff like that. But I still have enough materials for a few more harness's. All the info you need for ordering is on the forum. Will, I'll be waiting. Did you see the under hood light I did w/ the L.E.D.'s? I'm gonna order some leds from that site as soon as I get a couple extra bucks. I want the red ones real bad. pparaska, thank you very much, and I usually protected the scraped area w/ a dielectric grease, ( just a little bit) and no rust so far. And as for your short-cut to the alternater, you're actually putting more stress on the wire that goes from the alternater to the battery. direct from the battery is always a better idea. By going thru the alt rather than the battery, your asking your STOCK wiring to do more work. sounds weird but true. Dave.

Sorry Carl, I got all upset and started typing before looking at the small print. I'll try not to let it happen again (for a while at least) hehehe Dave. P.S. Seerex, was that comment for me? If so, thank you. I'm kinda proud of it so far. If not, than sorry for buttin in :tapemouth

And what am I, chopped liver??? Did any of you remember this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14897 read up on it, it's only 107 replys long, but worth reading.