Zs-ondabrain

I know they're not the same but maybe one of the 510 guys can help get a lead on where to look. One of them may have run across that particular style in the search for their "libre's". Just a thought off the top of the 'ol noggin, Carl. I may not know all the answers but some times I can shove ya in the right direction. And besides, "e racer1999" was interested in the Libre's also. Dave.

Type (510 again) into the yahoo search engine and you should get some thing like this: http://www.oregontrail.net/~rond/5102_again.htm Its a link page to almost every thing 510. try it out. Dave.

They almost look like the same ones I see on 510's all the time. Try a search on one of the pl/510 sites, ya never know.

ALWAYS REPLACE THE V.R. whenever you replace or have had problems with the alternator. Its almost one of those Datsun "rule of thumbs"

TAKE THE HEAD TO THE MACHINE SHOP!!!!!!!!!! re-surface the head or your just asking for the gasket to blow again, TRUST ME. Been there done that, HATED it. When it comes to your Z, Always take the extra time and money to do it right the FIRST time, Or you'll be spending twice that the next time. The $16.00 head gasket is not the one you want, The right one will run ya about $50 or more. The valve cover gasket is the only thing that should cost about $15.00. My 2Cents. Dave. P.S. Where in the h%$# did you fing a heater core for $60??

Sounds more like triplets to me. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6914&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500&page=3 Dave.

I know you don't wanna hear this, but whats the possibility that during all that back-firing you might have slipped the timing chain a tooth or 2?? I can't figure it out either, If it ran 2 hours before the pull and you changed nothing, it Should run. Start over with the engine on T.D.C on Compression stroke, check timing and spark plug arrangement again. If anything, do it for your own sanity, Just so you know in your head that it's all correct up front. Then go to the carbs. My 2cents. Good luck, Dave.

For your sanity and mine (ours), stick with the NGK's. They are the Supierior plug when it comes to the L-series. I've had nothing but dissapointment with all other plugs. With the exception of the 4-bridge rotory engine plug with the (MSD 6A) as a back-up. Then again I could be babling :stupid: Let us know how you end up fixing it, Dave.

This one is way out there, but my 70' would also only run or stay running at a crappy idle if I had the choke on. It turns out that I had real crappy spark and with the choke dumping more fuel into the chamber, it had a chance to keep running. sounds weird but the solution to my problem was the E12-80/D6K8 distributor swap ( from points to electronic) Now that there is decent spark and the throttle has been re-adjusted properly, It idles like a dream (a stage 2 cam, header, rumbling, blub blub blub blub dream) but none the less, very smooth. Not every Z is alike but what the hell, It could'nt hurt to check. Dave.

Scream'n is right. Damn if that ain't one of the better yellows i've personally seen. Stands out and says "HEY, I'M OVER HERE." LOOK AT ME OFFICER. MESSIN WITH YA, I LOVE IT. Dave.

Is that 77' competition corvette yellow? If not, what is that color? And by the way, that completely changes her name. I'm thinking 'Tiffany" Cause every Tiffany I ever knew had a sweet body, loved to tease and then would run away at top speed.

So far, I'm lovin that color. What's the color and who's your photogragher?

I've had the same problem every once in a while. I just thought that since she was taking nine years, a cute name like turtle would be fitting until she "tears" out of the shop when she's done

And I already thought of a name for her, "Turtle" What do you think??

If we ain't got it, we can get it, or at least tell you where to go. Some of us here even make stuff just for the Z world. I myself, make a headlight relay upgrade for the 70' to 73' 240Z. Will (HLS-30) and I are working on prototype L.E.D. integration for the whole car, to lower power consumption and current flow through the stock harness (which is the major factor in the melting of fusebox's and breaking of switches and other sorts of problems) in the early Z's. Most of us are glad to answer any questions you have if we are in the know. Welcome to "classic Z cars", the very best sourse for any body with an early Z, Dave in WA State.

Thanks Daneil, I just wanted to make sure that it did'nt sound like I was blowing steam out my a$$. Figure the red "Brake" light in the guage as a "STOP" sign that says " hold up, somethings wrong here" My manual center console mounted "choke" lever is also connected to that same E-brake wire via a bullet style splitter near the passenger seat, It lets me know that I left my choke on or my e-brake is up or on. It's in a 70', so go figure. Dave.

think of it in simplest form, you typical door on a Z is 2' X 3'? aprox. thats 6 square feet times 2 doors is 12 sq. ft your floor is 2 sides at about 2' X 5 or 6' depending on how much you want to cover. thats about 20 to 24 sq.ft the 1/4 panels and hatch are noisy, as is the fire wall and the roof and the spare tire well. 100 feet should cover most of it but like I said, It all depends on what length or extreme you're willing to go. I worked for CAR-TOYS here in the N.W. for 5 years and have also been doing car stereo for about 15 years or so. Dave

almost all the auto parts stores that carry aftermarket stuff for the imports have at least one or two of those switches on their shelves, I see them all the time at Schucks/Checker/Kragen and Auto-zone.

Like I said earlier this year, you can use it as a vapor barrier. I do it to cars all the time. Whether its covering the whole door panel or just over the obvious holes in the door panel, It will keep out the moisture, deaden a lot of noise, and keep vibration to a minimum. Vibration is a MAJOR factor when it come to deteriation of moving parts, welds, plastic joints and basic fasteners coming loose and allowing things to fall off. Any amount of Dynomat that you use on your doors will be an improvement on the existing condition of the door, noise and vibration. just remember that tar based acoustical mat (Dynomat) is naturally Heavy and WILL add weight to the car. Not drastic but considerable. Just remember that you can use it almost anywhere that a panel is larger than 12" X 12" you'd be supprised just how noisy one panel can be. Dave.

In my past experiance, when you step on the brake pedal and the red dash light that says "BRAKE" comes on, you have a brake issue elswhere. Like under the hood. Check the fluid levels and top them off and don't forget to inspect all your lines (possible rust problems on your floor board can create more problems w/ the brakes) and vaccum assist line that goes from the intake manifold to the brake booster. Take that ohms meter to the brake switch and keep this in mind "your brakes and turn signals BOTH go through the turn switch, and the turn signals also go through the emergency flasher switch on the dash" When we say "it's all relative" that means that it's all related to something else in the car. Start by replacing the headlight switch or rebuild it if your into that kinda thing, The P.O. (previous owner) put that jimmy rig switch in there for a reason. try to be the smarter of the two and put it back to stock before throwing more crap into it. Good luck and don't worry, we'll try our best to get you on the road safely. That's what we're here for, Dave.

Jared, There is no such thing as a dumb question if your really need to know the answer. However, Dumb answers are abundant, I should know, I give them all the time then scratch my head thinking " what the hell did I just tell him" oops. Dave.

I forgot to tell you that my bearings were trashed in my stock dist w/ points. So I could'nt do the Pertronics upgrade in that dist. chassis even if I wanted to. And this was much cheaper.

I picked up the distributor for $45 at the local yard. The blaster 2 coil was givin to me by a friend. I am bidding on an MSD 6A on ebay and if I'm lucky it won't cost me more than $60-$70 bucks for a grand total of $45 + $70 = $135 You can't beat that for a Newish ignition system that gives me more power and better gas milage and performance. Dave.

One other possibility to consider is the GM 1-wire alt that "Z-specialties is selling right now. It bolts right up (no modifications needed) the wire goes to your started i think? and you unplug your Voltage regulater and never use it again. You get constant voltage even at an idle. I think he's got them for about $150 and come change PLUS shipping. It's right up there on my "things to upgrade on the Z" list Dave.