Zs-ondabrain

Is that 77' competition corvette yellow? If not, what is that color? And by the way, that completely changes her name. I'm thinking 'Tiffany" Cause every Tiffany I ever knew had a sweet body, loved to tease and then would run away at top speed.

So far, I'm lovin that color. What's the color and who's your photogragher?

I've had the same problem every once in a while. I just thought that since she was taking nine years, a cute name like turtle would be fitting until she "tears" out of the shop when she's done

And I already thought of a name for her, "Turtle" What do you think??

If we ain't got it, we can get it, or at least tell you where to go. Some of us here even make stuff just for the Z world. I myself, make a headlight relay upgrade for the 70' to 73' 240Z. Will (HLS-30) and I are working on prototype L.E.D. integration for the whole car, to lower power consumption and current flow through the stock harness (which is the major factor in the melting of fusebox's and breaking of switches and other sorts of problems) in the early Z's. Most of us are glad to answer any questions you have if we are in the know. Welcome to "classic Z cars", the very best sourse for any body with an early Z, Dave in WA State.

Thanks Daneil, I just wanted to make sure that it did'nt sound like I was blowing steam out my a$$. Figure the red "Brake" light in the guage as a "STOP" sign that says " hold up, somethings wrong here" My manual center console mounted "choke" lever is also connected to that same E-brake wire via a bullet style splitter near the passenger seat, It lets me know that I left my choke on or my e-brake is up or on. It's in a 70', so go figure. Dave.

think of it in simplest form, you typical door on a Z is 2' X 3'? aprox. thats 6 square feet times 2 doors is 12 sq. ft your floor is 2 sides at about 2' X 5 or 6' depending on how much you want to cover. thats about 20 to 24 sq.ft the 1/4 panels and hatch are noisy, as is the fire wall and the roof and the spare tire well. 100 feet should cover most of it but like I said, It all depends on what length or extreme you're willing to go. I worked for CAR-TOYS here in the N.W. for 5 years and have also been doing car stereo for about 15 years or so. Dave

almost all the auto parts stores that carry aftermarket stuff for the imports have at least one or two of those switches on their shelves, I see them all the time at Schucks/Checker/Kragen and Auto-zone.

Like I said earlier this year, you can use it as a vapor barrier. I do it to cars all the time. Whether its covering the whole door panel or just over the obvious holes in the door panel, It will keep out the moisture, deaden a lot of noise, and keep vibration to a minimum. Vibration is a MAJOR factor when it come to deteriation of moving parts, welds, plastic joints and basic fasteners coming loose and allowing things to fall off. Any amount of Dynomat that you use on your doors will be an improvement on the existing condition of the door, noise and vibration. just remember that tar based acoustical mat (Dynomat) is naturally Heavy and WILL add weight to the car. Not drastic but considerable. Just remember that you can use it almost anywhere that a panel is larger than 12" X 12" you'd be supprised just how noisy one panel can be. Dave.

In my past experiance, when you step on the brake pedal and the red dash light that says "BRAKE" comes on, you have a brake issue elswhere. Like under the hood. Check the fluid levels and top them off and don't forget to inspect all your lines (possible rust problems on your floor board can create more problems w/ the brakes) and vaccum assist line that goes from the intake manifold to the brake booster. Take that ohms meter to the brake switch and keep this in mind "your brakes and turn signals BOTH go through the turn switch, and the turn signals also go through the emergency flasher switch on the dash" When we say "it's all relative" that means that it's all related to something else in the car. Start by replacing the headlight switch or rebuild it if your into that kinda thing, The P.O. (previous owner) put that jimmy rig switch in there for a reason. try to be the smarter of the two and put it back to stock before throwing more crap into it. Good luck and don't worry, we'll try our best to get you on the road safely. That's what we're here for, Dave.

Jared, There is no such thing as a dumb question if your really need to know the answer. However, Dumb answers are abundant, I should know, I give them all the time then scratch my head thinking " what the hell did I just tell him" oops. Dave.

I forgot to tell you that my bearings were trashed in my stock dist w/ points. So I could'nt do the Pertronics upgrade in that dist. chassis even if I wanted to. And this was much cheaper.

I picked up the distributor for $45 at the local yard. The blaster 2 coil was givin to me by a friend. I am bidding on an MSD 6A on ebay and if I'm lucky it won't cost me more than $60-$70 bucks for a grand total of $45 + $70 = $135 You can't beat that for a Newish ignition system that gives me more power and better gas milage and performance. Dave.

One other possibility to consider is the GM 1-wire alt that "Z-specialties is selling right now. It bolts right up (no modifications needed) the wire goes to your started i think? and you unplug your Voltage regulater and never use it again. You get constant voltage even at an idle. I think he's got them for about $150 and come change PLUS shipping. It's right up there on my "things to upgrade on the Z" list Dave.

So far you've all managed to skip his original Question. He's asking about the whole nine yards. Yes, NGK are the recommended spark plug and will allow him to upgrade his ignition without worrying about the plugs. Yes, Nissan had it right from the start but times change and parts wear out. Stick with the NGK brand Plugs, possibly go with some upper end plug wires like Accel 8mm or better for some real good current transfer. The 79' 280ZX distributor ( with E12-80 ignition module, and possibly a D4K8 or D6K8 dist. body) w/ new cap and rotor) would be the next best way to go. The D6K9 has 2 vaccum advance pieces on it (used in the 80' 280ZX) Also, Pertronics make great parts for your ign. system and lets not forget about MSD. Both make excellent upgrades to any "stock" Z or counterpart. Hope this helps at least a little, Dave. P.S. I just put the D6K8 distributor w/ E12-80 ign. module in my 70' 240Z and you can't wipe the smile off my face with a sledge hammer. I now have more power, NO more points (yeh!!) better gas milage, quicker easier starts (even in the cold weather) and the performance is 100% better than stock!!

if the link works, tell me if this is what your talking about. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=13207 I think it was a SPECTRE kit, Stainless steel hose covering w/ aluminum end caps. Dave.

this Item is up for sale again, so far it's at $31 + $10 S/H as of 12/ 5/ 04, 1600 hours

Carl, Me and Will are trying to come up with a few options and also come up with a full compliment to the lighting systems on the early Z's, ie: tail, side, front and interior, including the dash lights. I'm in the middle of unpacking after the big move and I'm a little slow at getting back on the horse. give us time and we'll come up with some good results, I promise. Dave.

Duh carl! :stupid: I'm the KING of cheap. I don't use the map light that much, but when I do, the difference is night and day. I just stare at the pretty light and drewl on my self. It's a bad habbit but "it's what I do" Dave.

lets just say that the map light can be seen 1.5 miles away, ok probably not but YES it is more of an office light (pure light, not the soft glow that we're all used to) now and is brighter than stock. how much would ya pay for something like that, Carl? Dave.