Zs-ondabrain

I looked and it seems like the "wide viewing angle BA9s bulbs" would work nicely in the pods as well as the speedo and tach area. I used my scanner to enlarge my wiring diagram for the 240Z and printed out all four corners to make one BIG map of the diagram. I found that the side markers, tail lights, and front parking lights as well as the dash lights, ALL come from (1) wire coming out of the light switch on the column. And the contacts on the dimmer switch "potentiometer" wear out over time. I'm in the process of designing a "kit" to fix the problem for those who don't wish to convert to "L.E.D.'s. It consists of... 1)a relay after the switch to give a true uninterupted 12 volts to that wire. 2) four new ground wires that can connect in the form of a 'T' to give a better ''point of contact'' ground to all 4 corners of the car. With my business license, I might be able to get the "LED" bulbs for the dash lights at a discount if I order them in Bulk, and still sell them to you guys at a discount when you buy the kit I'm trying to make it so we can upgrade our cars without having to "cut" up the car or the harness. the relay that I mentioned earlier would use a stock location for it's ground, a new, fused, heavy gauge wire from the battery to the relay, and you would only have to cut ONE wire and use the supplied connectors to attach it to the relay harness. let me know what you guys think as well as what you think something like that would be worth to you, (what would you spend)?? when I finish the prototype and test it on my Z, I'll take pics and let you see it (the kit). Dave.

My 70' 240Z is 99% rust free, my whole suspension has been rebuilt (urathane) and I have brand new toyota 4-piston calipers and Green Stuff pads in the front, 280zx rotors and 240sx calipers in the rear and Earls S.S. braided brake lines in all 4 corners. YUP, I can stop if I really want to. Besides, the doctor said it is'nt too habit forming. Dave.

140 MPH on I=5 near Everett, Washington. Certified by the State Trooper that clocked me and gave me one hell of a ticket. My 70' has a Stage two cam, 6 into 1 header, 2.5" exhaust, lowered, 16" wheel, 205x50 r16's, front spoiler, 4speed out of a 72 240Z. and thats all

Thanks Mark, I appreciate the good word. On a day like today, it helps.(long bad day) :disappoin

ANY ONE install one of my harness's yet???

I NEED TO KNOW IF ANY ONE HAS INSTALLED THERE HARNESS YET! HAVE YOU HAD ANY PROBLEMS? DO THE LIGHTS COME ON WITH THE KEY OR DO THEY WORK PROPELY? I had a customer tell me today that his lights came on with the key and not the switch, I think he only has a bad relay but I'd like some feedback from actual harness purchasers who have installed it into their Z. PLEASE LET ME KNOW A.S.A.P. Thank you very much!!! Dave.

the 260Z only used one style of headlight connector, the black rubberish bullet style. The 280Z's (75' to 78') used only one other style of connector, the elongated-white three pin connector. DATTO-ZED, the picture you posted is a 260Z only plug, no 240z ever used that style and neither did the 280Z. I don't know what happened to your other plug but it should be identical to the left plug ( according to my research so far) I'm looking for a supplier to find me those plugs and the ones off the 280 also. Dave.

My name came up as "brigadere McNutt" I actually have four squirrels in my yard that I am feeding for the winter nap.

Hey Guys and Gals, I checked on a couple things this week end. I the 260Z only used one style of headlight connector, the black rubberish bullet style. The 280Z's (75' to 78') used only one other style of connector, the elongated-white three pin connector. If anyone knows of a distributor for either of those two style plugs, let me know. If you have ever seen these style plugs on ANY other make or model of car/truck/van/or S.U.V. Please contact me with the info so that I can go to the local (pull a part) junk yard, and rsearch the info. Thanks in advance for all of your help, Dave in WA. state

Don't forget that if you have L.E.D.'s in the taillight area, you'll need an electronic frasher unit, because of the lack of a true load. They run about $30.00. L.E.D.'s use very little current to work, so they need a different style flasher rather than the thermal one that came w/ your car. one for the blinkers and one for the 4-way flasher.

Good Job on the L.E.D. site, this is what I'm talking about, every body telling us what they know so we can all benefit from it. I found the L.E.D's at my local Schucks/Kragen auto parts store. I also found them at Auto Zone.

To all who are interested, I started a new thread on L.E.D.s in a forum called "L.E.D. solutions for dash and other lights" http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=105036#post105036 Put your 2cents worth in and we can figure this thing out. Dave.

With any luck, We can all get together on this forum and figure out the weak dash light-hot fuse problems we all seem to be dealing with. I wrote in my "headlight relay upgrade harness's for sale" forum, that I upgraded all my EXTERNAL lights to L.E.D.'s. These lights use almost 1/10 of the power of conventional light bulbs. Have a running life of about 100,000 hours which rounds out to about 10 years of constantly being on, which could also equate to about the lifetime of the owner with general usage. So.. if your lights are on for (2) hours a day, every single day of the year, they would still last for over 169 years. Which is good arguement for the price of the L.E.D. conversion. These lights can usually be purchased at your local auto parts store. I know that off the top of my head, (2) 1157 L.E.D. replacemnt bulbs for your tail lights or front parking lights run about ($20.00). A combonation of (10) 1157 and 1156 bulbs are needed for the rear tail lights (and reverse lights) and front parking/turn signal lights. which is 5 sets = $100 at the parts store. If any one knows where to get these lights for less than $20 for 2, PLEASE clue the rest of us in. I have work to do at the moment, but will return later on tonight to continue on this topic. Dave.

Sorry Carl, Steve is right. My brain has the consistancy of pudding this week. But I do have a suggestion for all of you who are experiencing hot 3rd fuse down on the right. I converted my sidemarkers to L.E.D. and my tail lights and front parking and turn signal lights are now 1156 and 1157 L.E.D. bulbs. they can be spendy but I weigh the price of the fuse box and switch against the L.E.D. bulbs, and the L.E.D.s win the fight. I paid $100 for all my L.E.D. style bulbs and it WILL be worth the price I paid someday, My 3 fuses never get hot any more, My dash lights appear to be brighter and so does my dome and map light. Putting in the harness also increased the brightness of the other lights by drawing less power from the fusebox. Dave.

Good research Andrew, The headlights, tail lights, sidemarkers and front parking lights ALL run thru that 3rd fuse down on the right, thats why it is so prone to melting. Using my new harness reduces the amperage thru that fuse by at least 18 amps. Which also puts less strain on the fuses, fusebox, and the switches and headlight associated wires. I've been told that the harness should actually stop ALL melting and over heating in the fusebox due to the reduction of amperage that would normally flow thru it. Send me your tired, your poor, your un-used 280 plugs. If I can't find a supplier, This ain't gonna happen. But I'll figure it out. Dave.

Jeremiah, It may be sooner than I thought, Ed Palmer is sending me some 260Z plugs in the mail. As soon as I get them, I'll start building the first 260 proto then test it and start building them as soon as I find a supplier for the correct plugs. You guys have to reallize that I'm a 240Z guy. live it, breathe it, love it, Thats almost all that I know, except for my first datsun, A 78' 510 hatchback hotrod. I never meant to alienate my fellow Z owners (260 and 280's) but it seemed to feel that way. I'm repenting my sins by starting on the 260Z & 280Z headlight harness's A.S.A.P. Dave.

I've actually narrowed it down to one green wire as being the cause of the over heating fuse in the fusebox for the taillights. Now I have to find an easy, simple to install, solution for the problem. I'M WORKING, I'M WORKING. DAVE.

Will, That sounds like an excellent idea. I was actually hoping someone would give some real data on the voltage from the upgrade vs. stock voltage and dimness. I know big MIKE would like to see it as well as the rest of us, even me. Mark, I got your mail and replied with some info you might find interesting. Thanks again for your order. I really apreciate the business you guys are sending my way. things have been tight for a while. And this really helps a lot. BIG Thanks to all of you. Dave.

Will, My pleasure, glad to help, I'm glad to see you like it. Now you have to tell us about the improvement it makes on the car, ease of install, and what it's like to drive at night and actually see where your going or see whats in front of you, before you hit it. Alt_255, I'm working on it but find it hard to get out of the house now that my schedule requires me to built harness's all day. BUT I will get to it a.s.a.p. Dave.

My Toyota 4 piston calipers bolted right up to my stock rotors, NO spacers, No special adapters. Rotors cost $80 each, ($35 + $50 core) Pads were $40 for the front set, Stainlees steel braided brake lines were $100 for all 4. Stops on a dime. The rears are next, 240sx calipers, 280zx rotors, maxima adaptor, E-brake adaptor (2" plate w/ 2 holes in it) It's all pretty basic.

They should fit great in a RHD because every thing (like you said) Is switched around. the input plug to the relay will just plug into the left side of the stock harness instead of the right side. As long as the headlight plugs are still the 3 pin square 240Z style, you'll be O.K.

As long as people keep ordering and I have good suppliers, I'll keep making them. they take a little while to make (aprox 1.5 hrs each) but it keeps me busy and out of trouble w/ the fiance. And as long as its a viable source of income, and I'm able to help those in need, I don't see any reason to slow down at the moment. Dave. P.S. I'm in the process of making more, so if your interested, e-mail me with your request.

I would never tap any where other than the battery or a distrabution block, off the battery. If you tap else where, your still using old wiring. Dave.