Zs-ondabrain

And the deck fits great w/ a little trimming. I ran all new wiring to the rear ( 2 speaker leads, a remote turn-on lead and a set of R.C.A's for the amp) only because I don't trust 33 year old wires and it was originally set up for 1 speaker. Hope all this helps and once again, If you have any questions, feel free to ask. We're all here to help you get the most out of your Z-experience. Dave

As for the rear fill, Both Kenwood and Pioneer make slim line speakers that will fit into the stock rear locations easily. they are not deep like regular speakers w/ big magnets, so fitting a 5 1/4" speaker on the same side as the small tank and the hoses that are behind the right rear panel, is actually very easy. all you need to do make a reverse duplicate of the metal speaker bracket that is normally found on the left rear side.

And as you can see, its virtually invisible when the hatch carpet is in place, and cannot be seen especially at night. The sound is terrific and fills the car w/ beautiful low end sound w/ very little wattage. and there is even enough room left over for my tools and the amplifier is under the tools next to the sub.

And another, and keep in mind that there are NO HOLES DRILLED. Just a wood divider and fiberglass, w/ a solid wood top then carpet.

the wheel well sub for-mentioned is mine and heres a pic. if you need more info, give me a buzz. Dave

Ya I'm sorry it took so long, I was just about ready to " hit any key to continue" with a frickin sledge hammer:stupid: Hope you can read it. Dave

Buddy of mine put the duel strut assembly on his 240 and now its ballanced but the struts slam the hatch up so quick that we're waiting for it to rip the hinges of the car like an auto ejector. If you do it, go w/ the wimpy struts, cause the strong ones also make it damn hard to close the hatch

What a body shop would do is, put a chain or something of that matter to the upward dented peice, then chain it to the floor using a well anchored eyelet, then lift the car at its strongest point, hense, using the floor as a dent puller, and the car as the slide. But thats only if i'm reading what you read correctly. And if the dent is accessible from the floorboard, use your foot. my $0.02 worth

again?

forget it, this is B.S. I CAN'T GET ANYTHING TO WORK SORRY

one more try

hope this works

Heres a better description of all the blast media from eastwood

Found this in motorsport catalog.

Hey MOYEST, That brings up an interesting point that I was gonna bring up earlier but had to run, Have you considered putting a different set of tires on just for the hell of it, ya never know. It worked for me once, its a cheap and easy diagnostic tool (err.. tools) Dave

But whats the whole "life together" thing? I'd never heard that one before. P.S. thanks for blowing my dreams of having a great find. just kiddinLOL Dave

I'd never heard that phrasing before, just wondering if any one had ever seen these particular ones before???????

My front wheels are perfectly balanced but I get a vibration at aprox. 45 mph. Turns out to be the soft rubber mounts on my steering rack (or something in that area) roughly saying that the rack is worn out and the whole front end shakes cause of it. Just throwing that out there as a possability. Dave

Does any one know where these can be bought and how old this may be? the small white lettering says " LIFE TOGETHER " It's somewhat comfortable and works w/ the car. please help me w/ this question.

My name is Dave, I live Marysville, Washington (state). U.S.A. I own 1) 70 240Z ( in the pic on your left screen) It has the original motor that has had a stage 2 cam, 6-into-1 header, 2 1/2 pipe and a flowmaster muffler put in so far. All the polished aluminum on her was done by me at home and all the other work was also done by me. Hense the phrase " I'm too cheap to pay someone else" I used to own an 78' 510 2door hatchback that I built the crap out of, Raced It, then sold it 5 years later to pay for the traffic tickets I received on it's behalf. ( clocked By State Trooper @ 140+ MPH and still accelerating. oops, sorry officer. Weather up here sucks arse, esspecially when you blow the heater core hose in the first FREEZE of the season, tear it all apart to find out it was only a hose in the first place ( kinda jumped the gun that time ) So far I'm really torn as to what I'll do with the car in the following months, TO RESTORE, OR TO BUILD FOR RACING? tough decision. Dave.

And from what I've read in previous times and as far as I can tell, There were 9977 cars in the first production year of the 240Z. So if your Z is under that number than most likely it's a 70' Info taken from "How to restore your DATSUN Z-CAR" By Wick Humble, Page 6, Paragragh 7, Line 8 Quote'' Only 9977 were registered as 1970s; 26,733 as 71s; 46,537 as 72s; and 52556 as 73s."

Unfortunatly, my daily plans and my time to work on the car clash more than i'd like. the heater core and the assembly were in terriffic shape for being 33 years old, the valve looked almost new, and the clamps had been replaced w/ new style clamps. And the whole time, I'm upside down. but here's the good news, the p.o. never replaced the screws holding the assembly together, So all I had to do was remove the hoses, the blower assembly, 2 cables, and three hose clamps. NOT the Dash or the heater controls, boy was I relieved. I turned an 8 hour hellasious job into a 3 hour somewhat easy job. Dave.

Not that I'm aware of, and besides, Emissions!!!!, Emissions!!!!, We don't need no stinkin Emissions. I love that oneLOL Dave.

Carl's on the case, and kickin arse as usual ( he's pretty fast you know?)

It eliminates the unsightly hose that runs to your stock S.U.s. And if you replace them (stock carbs) w/ triple webbers or something like that, It allows the cover to breathe w/o the use of a hose going into a filter plate that no longer exists. I think?:classic: