Zs-ondabrain

Most likely it's not dead, just in need of some t.l.c. If you pull it, look for any loose connections both internal and external, most of the time the vibration from your Z will cause things to come loose and the starting of the car can make the connection work and the next time the connection will jiggle loose, something to think about b-4 you jump the gun.:classic: Dave

thats why I tossed it. It was a bmp file and it didnt work It was a drawing of a wheel well w/ dynomat and where to put it

While in the proccess of putting anything in the wheel well, try to get some DYNOMAT or any type of sound and vibration dampening material. Lay 2" X 6" strips at a minimum, through out the wheel well (aprox 6 pieces) 4 @ 12 / 3 / 6 / and 9 o-clock on the vertical wall of the wheel well. And 2 on the floor of the wheel well to the left and right of the hold down bracket in the center of the wheel well. I did this myself on my 70' and the results were fantastic. Just a suggestion. Dave

Thats it, Carl. Your new name is Yin&yYang. You see good in evil, You have an up for every down, you see the black in the white, etc, etc, just pullin your leg. Anyways, your advise should be well heeded ( taken seriously ) Dry ice can be nasty if your not careful. Dave

Nobody had posted pics and I figured you might want to have an idea of what they were talking about and if you go to buy one, you might want to know what you're looking for ( by picture reference, of course) Hope they help!:classic: Dave

And finally the shoulder belt attached to the lap belt via the clip

And the clip on the lap belt

May be off the path but heres the original bolt hole and shoulder harness to rear of 1/4 window

Sorry bout that! had a brain fart along w/ a blonde moment I forgot about the spare box on that year of Z. the box I built was for a later year Z but it looks like your spare box, makes me wonder if it was a mistake on my part or an accidental stealth in the making. I do that sometimes:stupid: Dave.

Is the carpeted box on the right side a subwoofer, the reason I ask is, it looks just like the one I did for a customer in a 79' 280Z, when I worked for CAR-TOYS@ ( THE BIGGEST CAR AUDIO SHOP IN THE N.W. (U.S.A.)

http://www.cranecams.com/ignition/appsn.htm#Nissan This should get you there Don't forget to scroll down to 6-cyl area and note # 5 the adaptor # is 6000-8910

Usually w/ my experience w/ crane systems, you need to buy a tach adaptor, one should be available for view at the crane website, or even w/ the paper work that should have come w/ your ignition. my 2cents Dave.

And the deck fits great w/ a little trimming. I ran all new wiring to the rear ( 2 speaker leads, a remote turn-on lead and a set of R.C.A's for the amp) only because I don't trust 33 year old wires and it was originally set up for 1 speaker. Hope all this helps and once again, If you have any questions, feel free to ask. We're all here to help you get the most out of your Z-experience. Dave

As for the rear fill, Both Kenwood and Pioneer make slim line speakers that will fit into the stock rear locations easily. they are not deep like regular speakers w/ big magnets, so fitting a 5 1/4" speaker on the same side as the small tank and the hoses that are behind the right rear panel, is actually very easy. all you need to do make a reverse duplicate of the metal speaker bracket that is normally found on the left rear side.

And as you can see, its virtually invisible when the hatch carpet is in place, and cannot be seen especially at night. The sound is terrific and fills the car w/ beautiful low end sound w/ very little wattage. and there is even enough room left over for my tools and the amplifier is under the tools next to the sub.

And another, and keep in mind that there are NO HOLES DRILLED. Just a wood divider and fiberglass, w/ a solid wood top then carpet.

the wheel well sub for-mentioned is mine and heres a pic. if you need more info, give me a buzz. Dave

Ya I'm sorry it took so long, I was just about ready to " hit any key to continue" with a frickin sledge hammer:stupid: Hope you can read it. Dave

Buddy of mine put the duel strut assembly on his 240 and now its ballanced but the struts slam the hatch up so quick that we're waiting for it to rip the hinges of the car like an auto ejector. If you do it, go w/ the wimpy struts, cause the strong ones also make it damn hard to close the hatch

What a body shop would do is, put a chain or something of that matter to the upward dented peice, then chain it to the floor using a well anchored eyelet, then lift the car at its strongest point, hense, using the floor as a dent puller, and the car as the slide. But thats only if i'm reading what you read correctly. And if the dent is accessible from the floorboard, use your foot. my $0.02 worth

again?

forget it, this is B.S. I CAN'T GET ANYTHING TO WORK SORRY

one more try

hope this works

Heres a better description of all the blast media from eastwood