Zs-ondabrain

Grab a neighbor if possible and crawl under the car. if the fluid levels are ok the fork could have slipped?, the slavecould be bad?, you won't really know until some one pushes on the peddle when your under the car good luck! Dave

You're correct, but what I was trying to get across was that the 240Zs and most others come with a plastic sheet over the inside of the door that acts like a vapor barrier and keeps some noise out of the cab. Dynomat and all other products in the same class do essencially the same thing as the plastic sheet with the exception of they are designed for sound deadening, and are tar or asphalt based, which make them water proof. The door still has the same cubic feet as before but its a more re-enforsed enclosure and vibration is cut severely to a minimum. You can't go wrong with these products and even the cheap ones are better than using just plastic, unless your going for that "true original look". Even if you use just a small piece in the middle of a panel, ( for lack of funds or trying to keep the weight down) there is still a significant differrence in sound and vibration transfer.

So cut it the same way you would a plastic sheet that you would normally use as a vapor barrier, all around the door seam aprox 1/2" shorter in diameter than your door panel Clean the surface really good and warm it up before you put the dynomat (etc.) on. and roll out as many air bubbles as possible using a wooden or rubber roller and a heat gun. One thing you might want to consider is matting under the headliner. its the biggest interior sheet metal on the car and the most often forgotten about. and the wheel well too.

its about time you guys asked a stereo related question, and yes dynomat and other related meterials are used BIG TIME in the car audio world. I've been doing car stereo for over 17 years. All 3 products are excellent for 1) noise reduction 2) vibration dampening and 3) as a moisture barrier. as for the door or car in question, I use the THIN dynomat or alternate (cheap stuff) as a vapor stop on the inside of the door, behind the door panel, (which will also stop that pesky drip that you see at the bottom of the door and on the inside skuff plate after a good rain or washing) the door panel usually goes right back on and the mat does not push out on the panel either. as for acoustic usage or making you speakers more efficiant under less wattage, placing a thick or double layered peice (aprox. 6" to 8" inches in diameter ) directly behind the speaker ( on the inside of the outer door skin) will stop almost all resinence and vibration. hense, you'll hear more music than noise. and the dynomat seals off the door to make it a better enclosure for the speaker So all and all, you cant really go wrong with this stuff. it usually available at any real stereo shop and you might want to try a place called "the right connection" they got tons of stuff for your car.

what is the moisture or humidity like in your area, especially at night? POP CAN THEORY, When the temperature outside is hotter than that inside ( a sweatting soda can ) in-other-words, when you shut the car off after heating the exhaust system sufficiantly, the moisture from the outside air collects all through out the exhaust system. Mean while, it collects soot that is all through out the pipping, and deposits it in the form of spray and or a constant dripping. It wont smell like fuel or oil, its thicker than water and thinner than oil, and the dark color comes from the pipe itself. roughly meaning, its not some thing to freak out about. the motor will collect condensation through out the coolling proccess (be it minutes or hours) and naturally spit them out every time you start and run the car. I have a black spot on my garage door ( about 2 feet in diameter) that is from my 1970, 120,000 hard miles, 240Z. RELAX, but have it check out just for your own peace of mind. If i'm correct, me and Beandip both live in the N.W. of the united states and we're used to it. Dave.

And if you use an open end wrench make sure that it is damn tight before you start turning or bloody nuckles are going to be the least of your problems if there is room for a small vice-grip, use it.

how is the car in the air (ie;) are the rear tires in a position for you to spin them, and get the nuts into a better position for you to get a rench on them I am familiar with the d-bolts but have not had a prob reaching the nuts w/ a wrench

I've never heard of or personally had a problem with the drive shaft nuts and bolts not coming off. do you have a digital cam that you can get under there? cause I'm not understanding why they would not come off. Have you shot it with WD/40? smacked it w/ a hammer? Is the exhaust in the way? Details are the name of the game. If you got 'em, share 'em. They should be 12MM nuts with lockwashers. get back to us.

O.K. so you've rewired every thing, but did you replace the turn signal switch on the column??? Every problem you mentioned before goes through that switch. The brakes, the turn signals, the high beams, all of it goes through that switch. As for the emergency flasher module, sure, replace it. They only cost a few bucks, but I would SERIOUSLY look at the flasher switch on the dash. The front and rear turn signal lights go through that switch, it's module is on the lower right side of the dash or on the upper passenger side kick panel. blue and green w/ white stripes. get back to us and tell me if you replaced that switch or the flasher switch.

And here it is installed and yes 240ZX, the early models came w/ the vaccum booster tube facing the firewall, I personally I like it that way, as apossed to the vertical position.

hey Victor L, I too did some grinding on mine, I shaved the emissions crap that was not needed and smoothed out the rest.

I know I know but my feet were wet and the peddle slipped.... honestly officer:classic:

ain't it pretty??

coincidence or cowinkidink? the teachers here in Marysville Washington, are STILL on strike and going to court tomorrow. I drove by them outside the school the other day, and low and behold on of them yells out "light 'em up" and another follows with "smoke 'em". And w/ me being me, and sitting at a stop sign, well.... I could'nt help myself I revved up to 4 grand and dropped the clutch, a snap insued, followed by screaming tire a buckets of smoke. You could'nt wipe the smile off my face with a crowbar. until I got home and crawled under the car to find that I tore another f$#@ing diff mount. And there not cheap damnit. serves me right I guess but if WAS fun while it lasted. oh well

sorry they're so dirty looking, its been a long two months and I just don't seem to have the time for cleaning anymore, but good news, I cleaned them today. I'm actually thinking of retro fitting some of those lids onto my rear panel ( for storage use-or lack there of) but I'm torn about cutting into a near perfect deck. It'll some some serious soul searching before I cut her up. my girlfriend calls my 240 "the other woman" and funny thing is, she's kinda right. but luckily I haven't gone as far as humping the exhaust pipe or something. (haha)

I think I speak for every one when I say " been there, done that, sorry you have to go through it yourself" Its not really that hard but it is labor intensive, just pay attension to the obvious and don't forget about the timing and oil pump ( ya it sucks but we have confidence in you). good luck and happy driving, just smile in the knowledge that you did it yourself and didn't pay someone else to do it...... Dave.

sorry killer, i figured if anyone would know It would be you, your like a Z-god or some thing you seem to have an answer for everything oh well, I tried

I'm not big on 280s but if your talking Z versus ZX my answer would probably be on the NO side but I could be wrong im not always a big help sorry Dave.

but nobody showed the covers on the car

man, zmefly, your fast im impressed but then again my typing sucks

if it's an L-series (L-24/L-26/L-28) there is a tensioner in the lower front of the motor if you let up at all on the chain, the tensioner may have come out a little, or worse- it came out all the way. if so...... you'll have to pull the front cover and fix that b4 any thing else.

so I'm driving down I-5 in Everett Washington. and a beautiful 350Z is along side me, I look over and give him a wave and a thumbs up. this OLD FART looks over at me like "who the hell are you, and what do you want?" this guy was completely clueless as to the fact that I was driving the ORIGINAL Z. and that my 240 is the great grandfather of his Z. what an idiot!!! :stupid: He was probably at the dealership, saw the 350Z, and thought "Hey, I'd look cool in that, What is it?" But I still Wave and Honk at all my Brothers and Sisters in the Z-world, Even if they don't.

is it still for sale? I live in Marysville. where are ya at?

I'm just working off the top of my head so bare w/ me if I slide off track or don't get my facts exactly straight. you said youve checked or replaced the hazard switch many times, have you checked power to the switch? when you build something, you work forward, when you diagnose something, you work backwards. If there should be power at the hazard and there is not, work from there. I know that you are reading this and saying "duh Dave, we're not stupid, we already tried that". But I'm just rambling and trying to help myself remember, as well.

well I'm miffed, but heres my two cents worth........ lets start over, shall we? lets start at the brake light switch at the peddle, YES, there should be power at the brake light switch at all times. I believe it is a green w/ a white stripe. If there is no power there, your problems just became minimal fixing from this point is as easy as a 16 guage wire from the battery or a very good power source within the car, with an inline 15-amp fuse, then to the switch on the peddle (+)---------(15A fuse)-------------(brake light switch) now the bad news... if there is power at the switch, it goes directly to the turn signal switch on the column. the brake wire is split into two sides at the turn signal switch,----which tells me that the problem is gotto be here or before, because if both lights are not working, the problem is most likely before the splitting of the brake wire at the switch. find the brake light wire at the switch then run an ohms meter from there, to the rear of the car. check both left and right tail lights and that is all that really consists of the brakes I think???? Unless they run through the flasher.......