Zs-ondabrain
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Everything posted by Zs-ondabrain
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A good paint stripper may take off your clear coat but I was writing to let you know that the Eastwood Company has a heavy clear coat for any thing polished, like aluminum, pot metal, brass, etc. I used it on my 78' 510 when I polished the valve cover and It has real good stay power, hi heat resistance, and does'nt yellow over time. it can be brushed on or sprayed, just follow the instructions on the can. good luck, Dave.
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HEY BLITZKRAIG, IF ANY THING IN THIS WORLD CAN wizz YOU OFF AND MAKE YOU HAPPY TWO MINUTES LATER, IT'S A DATSUN. GOOD LUCK ON YOUR SEARCH DAVE.
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Thats all fine and dandy but make sure there is not to much vaccum on the line or you'll suck the gas right out of your float bowl. If you tap your filter make sure your filter stays clean or your carbs will try to get its air elsewhere :ie, your float bowl vent line The canister mentioned by chino is a good idea and you might want to look at the engine photos else where on this site. take a look at chino 240z's gallery for a clue about my babbling. good luck, and hope this helps.
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the reflection is hazy but thats aluminum, I could do better but thats another day, I'm real happy w/ the results but the picture doe'nt show you what I see. sorry, it's a crappy camera.
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the wheels after years of crap, mind you I already used the acetone on it
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just this week end I polished all four of my old slotted mags. took a while but was well worth it. I started w/ a bottle of acetone to remove all wax/grease/tar and paint from the wheel so as to not gum up my sand paper and buffing pad which is a 5" spiral sewn buffing wheel on a $20.00 4'' grinder I used (tripoli) compound to cut through the years of crap that built up on the aluminum, then after cleaning the pad w/ a screw driver I used a White rouge for the final shine.
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when the old style flasher unit is used, you need to remember that unit shorts itself out in order to "flash" . A couple fixes would be lower wattage bulbs, A different style flasher unit or even an electronic flasher unit If you ever change your bulbs to L.E.D.'s w/ the help of an electronic flasher, there will be little or no draw on the system.
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I've been told that you would have little or no suspension left At least w/ a 16, you can run a 205/40/16 but you'd be pushing it w/ a 2??/35/17 (pretty rough ride) very little betweeen the wheel and the ground but its up to you, and spacers are so bad for your rear and put the tire a little to close to the fender leaving you w/ a ripped up tire or worse I would'nt do it but thats up to you. good luck!!
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For all you who have written in on the subject, thank you And if you'll all go to MY gallery, you'll see the end results and once again, thanks for your input, I appreciate it. P.S. I'll paint the lettering blue later on, been kinda busy Dave.
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Been there, done that, had to use the t-shirt as a grease rag, oops..... It's a great tip and I wish I'd been the one to write it out but I've done so many mods and little tip fixes that it's hard to keep up or remember all that i've done.
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Well enough was'nt good enough -
Sorry... i could'nt leave well enough alone -
HELP ENGINE PRO's: Rebuilt Engine & Oil Pressure
Zs-ondabrain replied to Bambikiller240's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
one other thing I thought of was .... the oil pump pumps at idle to 7000+ rpm and it may take awhile for the oil to get there oil in the pan?? plugged spraybar?? bad oil filter??? keep guessing. -
HELP ENGINE PRO's: Rebuilt Engine & Oil Pressure
Zs-ondabrain replied to Bambikiller240's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
I'm not a serious pro but my first thing to check would be the oil pump rod and w/ the distributor cap off I'd check to see if the rotor is turning if the locking pin on the crank is slipping, the oil pump and the distributor wont move hey, it's a shot in the dark, even for me, but what the heck and I hate to even mention the other possabilities,...... -
w/ the cover in place and the carpet over the grill its very hard to tell its even there -
before re-assembly -
much better than the old look of 30 yr old casted aluminum -
back on the head and lookin good (in my opinion) -
before I removed everything but the E-46 casting -
did'nt come out quite the way I planned, but theres always tomorrow -
one problem, I'm already old and forgetful and I will leave it on, Thanks
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not knowing the history of the car in question, if the car has sat for a while 1) the rings could be worn 2) the head gasket could have a passage leak 3) a leaky valve or deposit in the valve seat a pressure test will identify a ring or valve problem keep looking and good luck
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a couple things to ponder.... 1)did you fill it to high??? just kiddin 2) 10w-30 is recommended for your weather but, they don't take into account - your driving.. if your a high revver like me, you might want to think about 20-50 or a high milage oil w/ a BOTTLE of HYPER-LUBE (ITS SUPER THICK AND MADE FOR SMOKING OR WORN MOTORS) ESPECIALLY IF YOUR WEATHER IS HOT! 3) Might be a good time for a valve adjustment, and a pressure test on each cylinder, Just for fun.....(you know ya love it )
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Thanks Alfadog, but at the time there were quite a few on line And you were thinking same as me, toss the mfg stamp and leave the p/n. and maybe use a little bit of my (intense Blue pearl) on the lettering to make it stand out? Man, I LOVE BLUE AND CHROME/POLISHED ALUMINUM! Thanks a lot. Dave in WA. P.S. I'm pulling it today, I'll put pics on later on this evening.
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well?