Zs-ondabrain

Sexy? Maybe. Beautiful? I could go with that. Thanks guys, I blame that pretty radiator and overflow tank.

Those Damn Gremlins!!! The least they could do is put it back together for ya.

yes, pretty universal. Heater core, likely leaking, look for dried fluid inside the heater core box. Most radiator repair shops can check or repair it for you and you can always look for another one, but don't buy a used one. just saying. Charcoal canister is obviously Not 100% needed but if you want is to all work correctly, then I would likely reinstal one. It's an emmisions part. Bracket under AFM, possibly for A/C pump that no longer exists? Can't really tell from the photo. The black Ground wire on the Alternator rear should be bolted to the alternator. Usually just a simple screw. The white plug with white wire(s) (near the center console) looks like the stereo plug, Datsun used white wires for the rear speaker(s) Almost any black wire in an S30 Z is a ground wire. Green is typically lighting, Blue is typically power of some sort but none of these are definates, only typical of most Datsun wiring. Here's a link to the best info you need on your electrical and everything else, The Factory Shop Manual is here....... http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Save your FSM to your Computer, you'll likely use it more than once with that Z. Hope this helps a little, Dave

I started with a Griffin 3 core that sprung leaks here and there. I replaced it with an eBay 2 core aluminum 240Z radiator with the Dual electric fan set-up. A little polishing here and there, (was cheaper to polish it myself than pay extra for the polished version) and it's beautiful and works a hell of a lot better than stock and the oversized Griffin. IIRC I only payed about $140 for the Rad and fans and the Electric Thermo switch was about $30 at NAPA. Dave The new 2 core and the older Griffin (last 2 pics)

When you press the brake pedal, you Should have power on both wires of the brake switch, so it sounds like it's working correctly now. So now you need to trace that wire from the switch to the back to make sure the power is getting back there. Test at the bulb(s) if nothing then work towards the front. Test the connectors at the passenger side area, if the power is there then the break is easily between the paasenger kick panel and the rear. If no power on that wire on the passenger kick, then it's between the kick panel and the switch. Porcess of elimination. one wire and connection at a time. You'll get it, just take a breath and take a second look.

All great advice. I just responded to a private message from Aldren. Basically, let me finish a few small jobs around here and let me know what your schedule looks like for the week-ends and we'll start looking at the issues, one at a time. Like Bruce said, sounds like most of the issues work but the mess makes it look overwhelming. we'll emilinate the extra wires, tidy up a bit and start getting it back to road worthyness, one issue at a time. Dave

Yes, mine is a 1 peice. The center peice on a 3-peice kit is different than the 2 side peices. The 2 sides have a flat profile with a small round hump and the center peice is similar to the inner seal, in shape, but smaller. Rough up the paint a little before applying the glue. also rough up the rubber peice to be glued as well. Use it as a contact cement. let it get tacky on both sides before applying the seal to the body. Dave

it IS the rheostat (dash light dimmer). The dash located Brake light has nothing to do with the dash lights. The parking light circuit controls the dash lights (illumination) the sidemarkers, front marker lights and taillights. The brake light on the speedo is activated by the E-brake handle switch and/or the low pressure switch located on the distribution block below the master cylinder. As for things not lighting or operating apon the ignition switch being turned on, I would start looking at the actual ignition switch wiring, then the fusebox again and the dash connections locvated on the passenger side under dash area. Those are my 25 years worth of "Other ideas" Dave

You have a 71' That's the way they are supposed to light up. So start giggling.... The payyern changed thru out the years but yours is supposed to be all 3 bulbs for brake and 2 parking lights when no brake applied. Later years had the 2 outer most bulbs as brakes. Dual filiment is for parking light and brake light, Typically 1157 up top and 1156 on the bottom lense as well as the reverse light.

I think your Z would look great with a set of classic Early mirrors on it. Just buy 2 Left sides, Instal the left door mirror than shave a wedge off the base of the right door mirror. I love mine.. Here's a shot of me installing my outer hatch seal after paint. A couple example pics, to give you an idea of how classy the originals were. Your Z is looking better everytime I log on. Dave

http://www.xenons30.com/files/1971%20FSM%20Supplement.pdf Here's a PDF of the 71's Sevice manual, it includes wiring diagrams and everything else. Scroll all the way down for the basic and late 240Z wiring diagram (literally last 2 pages. Here's the main site...... http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

If you have parking lights but no dash lights, then the dimmer is likely the problem (located under the dash on the tach side of the column) No headlights is likely the fuses, or associated wires from the fusebox (being that you swapped boxes) or start checking the switch and wires in that area. I'd also be inclined to start looking in the passenger side area for unplugged connectors.

That's Awesome Tony, Funny enough, I ended up with the same exact yellow 71' from Maisto. Even funnier is the fact that my Neighbor got it for me and I didn't get ANY Datsun related stuff from my own family. Dave

No problem, and thanks for the "Thumbs up Bump" I get almost all my upgrade harness plugs from these guys...... http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm Click "Electrical" on the left panel and then click "connectors and Terminals" in the middle. And don't forget to also order the terminals as well. I order my terminals by the 100's and connectors by the dozens. By the way, if Anyone needs a whole bunch of Female 6-pin connectors, Just like the ones that plug into the ignition, voltage regulator, fan switch, combo switch (on the 240Z's) The smaller of the 2, the one that fits inside the larger one.... I have over 250 of them. 20 for $5 + Shipping (your choice of standard for $3 or Priority for $5) Dave

I may be off a little, but isn't Sep. 72' still a 72'?? Just curious. And I believe the main issue is mid to later 73's with the electric fuel pump. I don't know when atsun actually started the relay system for the electric fuel pump, so until I get a definitive answer, we'll just say 73's with the relay and electric fuel pump, are the cars with a possible issue. So Ditto to your info but still need a more precise answer from the other 73' owners. Dave

After much deliberation of the subject, The best coarse of action includes 1 of a few options. The link below is one post be Steve that he did to his 73' 240Z. He basically tracked the hot wire to the relay connector, cut the yellow wire and ran an ignitioon controlled switch on the wire to make sure that the power gets shut off with the key and it can also be used as an anti-theft switch as well, once his manual fuel pump is eliminated. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=348665&postcount=7 Some other owners have suggested an oil pressure switch to make and break the connection of the yellow wire. No Oil pressure due to a non running motor means no fuel pump running. The switches are available at most auto parts stores and online at www.Jegs.com and www.Summitracing.com. Some others just suggest a simple switch to cut the power manually. Dave

2 words Kirk, "Bring tools" Glad to hear ya made it thru the Holiday Season. My door is Always open to you and your Family. Anytime you're in the area, stop on by. Things have obviously slowed down a bit. Too damn cold in the garage and this Christmas has swept all the enthusiasm out the door. Just gotta finish this MSA order and another customers Order and get back to work, no matter what. I need money for paint and time to finish all the other little sub-projects within the main project. DAve

Thanks Andrew, And to add as well as repeat, After as much as 40 years of service, resistance builds up in the circuits. This causes much heat in the fuses, contacts, wiring and connections. From the Battery to the actual first lights in the Parking light circuit, there is.... * over 12 feet of old wiring * over 10 connection points * 2 fuses and 1 switch * as much as 15+ amps going thru that circuit anytime it's on. You own a 71' 240Z. My upgrades are 240Z based and all are Plug and Play. They use stock Datsun Plugs and the OEM mounting holes and bolts for grounding. As for adding higher wattage bulbs, you're only requiring more of the system that is failing already. The Parking light harness will repair the issue at hand AND allow the higher wattage bulbs to actually be brighter, without harm to the system. Dave

http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/65031/catid/7733/Inspection_Lid___left__70_78___used Inspection Lid. Here's the left one and check the site for the right side.

1. Finish the body work on the 260Z 2. Paint and start getting the 260Z back together. 3. Somehow fix the small oil leak on the fuel pump. it's small but keeps blowing oil onto the motor and passenger side fender, frame rail, firewall and a few other things. 4*. Win the lottery so I can finish the damn car, buy a house and property for Leah and take a well deserved vacation. Finally.

And then you can buff them out with that nice new Pair of socks ya got for Christmas. Right? haha Looks good so far. Dave

yes, the 2 pin electronic flasher will plug into the same 2 wires that your Thermal flasher used right now. There should be a green wire and a white wire attached to your present flasher. The white is from the turn signal flasher and the green is from the fusebox. There should be a + symbol on the new flasher and I believe the green wire goes there. Dave

Almost all the auto parts stores carry the correct Electronic Flashers, now-a-days. If you have regular bulbs, non-LED, then just grab a standard 2 prong Electronic Flasher. I think I installed a "Blazer" HD Elec. Flasher (3-bulb) in the 72' Green Z as it was all stock lighting. Only cost about $9. If you have LED's in front and rear, then you'll need to get an LED specific Electronic Flasher. They typically have 3 pins and the 3rd pin needs to be Grounded. Dave

Mitchell, oh no. They are still available, it just depends on the mood of the Boss. Sarah, That's just VA's way of saying "stay off the roads, too many idiots out here, your Z is safer at home" Jan, I just cracked open MY bottle of Glenfiddich (12 yr old) last night. My dad was looking for something to sooth his sore throat. He prefered some Bourbon but got a real shock when he took a sip of my 12 year old Scotch. I think his throat is Still numb, or at least soothed for the moment, 24 hours later Mark, OUR moons were in alignment last night, thank god the kids didn't see them......... My gift was a direct result of her gift, care of Adam and Eve.com hahaha KJP, I'm sure she meant well. You got tools, fix the tool box. It wouldn't be a first, for some of us. Dave

The wife decided she'd heard enough of me complaining about my Ryobi Batterries always dying midway thru drilling, grinding or what have you when working on the 260Z project car. So I got..... The new 1 hour green Lithium Charger 2) new 18 volt Lithium Ion Batteries. And a hummer but I don't think that's car related... LOL So what did YOU get......? Dave