Zs-ondabrain

Now ya screwed up.. Just jinxed the whole thing Winters coming, guess we'll see. I too did the whole "reskin" thanks to Arne's writeup and a lot of patience..... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36984 Dave

Operates the same, uses the same two wires on the right side of the tranny. Are you having trouble?

I'll NEVER used E10 in my car again after reading some of the FACTS online about Lack of power, LOSS of power Loss of MPG, corroding parts, deteriating lines and parts, etc, etc. This is just one of the hundreds of reports stating how Ethanol is a BIG "Fail" There are more links in the link below.... http://chemicallygreen.com/inconvient-truth-about-ethanol/

Now you know how I felt when waiting for the "Forza Motorsport 2" Game to come out. I did 2.5 hours of Dyno time at FAME automotive, was told I would have my name in the credits, was told I would get a free copy of the game and they even did a "Turn 10" spotlight story for the FM2 website. A year later they finally released the game. I don't even own an Xbox 360 but the waiting game sucked. http://thrilloftheride.tumblr.com/post/216109400 (Part 1) http://thrilloftheride.tumblr.com/ (Part 2, scroll to OCT 18) This is not the original interview from forza but a lotta copy and paste on the Einterview's part) Have fun waiting. Dave

Kirk, This Totally Sucks. I can't believe it's come to this already. I hope she's doing OK. I take it work has come down a bit? I am SO sorry. I wish there was something I could do on this end but we too have been in a 2 month slum. I think I've made less than $200. Feel free to give me a buzz anytime man. Give the girly girl a hug for us. Dave and Leah

I "GOOGLE"d Datsun 240Z Blueprint and then hit images

If it makes ya feel better, Enkei Decided to bring back the 92's. Part of there display at SEMA this year was a Beautiful 72'?? white 240Z with Black 92's on one side and gold 92's on the other. And a silver wheel on display in front of the car. Here's the link with more wheel and Z pics. My buddy sent me cell phone pics from the show, he knows what I like. http://www.blog.enkei.com/2010/11/04/enkei-wheels-at-sema-2010/ Dave

The clips are "S" shaped and I can't imagine paying over $5 each, that's rediculous. I don't think glue will do the trick on this one. It's a flat peice of rubber that needs to be attached to a flat peice of steel, parallel, side by side. If your car has some, reuse them. Maybe even check out the yards or ask someone here for those clips. Dave

As I slow down to a dead stop (smoking that is) I've noticed my sense of smell and taste have already jumped 5 fold. with the exception of winter, I hope to start walking more, joging on occasion, taking the dogs out more often, etc, etc. You get the idea. It's like being a prisoner for years and I'm sitting here making Mental notes of all the things I wanna do once I'm free of this incarceration. Think of the money I'll save, the Parts I can buy, the........ ya, you get it. Thanks guys, Dave

They got my Vote as well, MY ZT carbs kick arse!! The rebuilt L26 motor in my 240Z absolutely LOVES the new carbs. It ran good on the old ones but now that the ZT's are running the show, the difference is Noght and Day. I haven't had to touch them since Steve installed them at Canby in June of this year. Starts every time, no hickups, lack of power, hesitation or anything of the sort. Thanks Bruce and Steve for your time and awesome products. Thanks Bart, I love a good Plug in the middle of another thread. Seriously!! I love that. and you're welcome as well. Word of mouth advertisement is still the best. Dave

Mike, I'm gonna say late 10/70 if not real early 11/70'. My 71 was a 12775 and I think it was a 10/70. Ya'll should let her know that it's a Seies 1 240Z, the more sought after Z. I'd say Yellow 919. Tiffanie, GREAT FIND!!. Low to almost no rust is a catch for sure. Straight body, easy fix on the interior as one of our Site supporters is MSA or Motorsport Auto in Orange California. They have your carpet kit, seat upholstry, and most of the little hard to find parts you may find yourself needing. Do you mind if we ask how much you got her for? Welcome and use the SEARCH button as almost everything you need to know has been written about. Dave

There are L24's out there that will wipe the street with an L28. Look into Robello Motors in Cali. They build L series motors to woop arse. The 240Z and 280Z harness's are completely different animals. If you drop an L28 into your 240Z, just use the existing wiring. Unless you're gonna do the Fuel injection L28, then you'll need the ECU and the associated harness that goes with it. The 600HP L28 is no longer an L28. It's likely been stroked, bored, crank swapped, Turbo's or is using an N.O.S. system. Displacement is key when building the L28's and the Turbo L28 from a 280ZX is a better designed and built block. Bigger casting and such. I'm sure there are a few members who will add to this or correct me if I'm wrong but you get the Just of it. Welcome by the way. Ever head North to Marysville, Let me know if you stop by and BS for a bit. Dave

You may be refering to the 12 clips that hold the rubber strip to the body, that seals dirt and water from going out and over the inner fender into the engine compartment. There are 6 clips per side, they hold a rubber strip that is about 1/8" thick, 30" long and1-1/4" tall? In the picture below, the highest lip that you can see (with some black tar stuff on it) is the lip that the clips attach to and the clips hold the rubber peice up, to allow it to press against the fender, to stop water from going from the wheel well area, over the lip and into the engine compartment. Confused yet? Dave

Pull the cap and rotor, clean the water or any moisture out of it. I would use an air hose with a paper towel to catch the moisture. Use the air hose on all your connections to eliminate any arching due to water jumping the leads. EVERY connection needs to be clean. Start there. And be patient next time. DAve

All fixed, thanks Frank.

That's a pretty open question Jared. Are you asking about general Grease and gunk clean-up? Repainting colors? Polishing or polishable items? Specifics help us help you. If it's grease clean-up..... Cover the distributor (protect from moisture) Cover any Carb Openings, (intake opening of the air cleaner assembly, carbs if no air cleaner, etc, etc) try not to spray directly into the Alternator. Use GUNK engine degreaser (Their Foam degreaser will stay in place a little better) Be careful around the Firewall when spraying. Old rubber will shrink and allow air and water in. Water under pressure will shoot right in there and you won't know till it's too late. Tape down the Brake fluid caps to keep them from flying off and getting water in there. There's a start. Dave

You need to borrow a fuel pressure tester for Fuel injection motors (about $20 or $30 at Harbor Freight Tools) or maybe a local friend or mechanic will let you borrow one. If and when you get one, disconnect the fuel line at the fuel filter, between the filter and the fuel rail, connect the "T" fitting to the open hose you disconnected, then add a spare peice of hose of the same diameter between the filter and the added "T". Make sure to put a towel or rag over the lines before pulling them from the filter. Run the motor (if possible) or turn the key to on, hold then try and start it, watching the gauge to so the pressure...... The Fuel pressure in your car should be around 36 pounds BUT FIRST!!!! Drain the fuel tank. Disconnect each line and Blow Them Out, disconnect the filter up front and the same line in rear and blow it back wards (from the front to the rear) and get as much crap out of there as possible. THEN, when it's all blown out, if the tank seemed clean, reconnect everything and fill the Tank about 3/4 of the way. You need an almost full tank to prime the pump and lines once they have been blown out and or emptied. Then try the fuel pressure test again. Fuel injection can be easy but at the same tiome, it only takes one little thing to make it run like arse or not at all. Dave

Have a shop or a friend do a fuel pressure test on it. If the rear one is empty, replace it and start checking for clogged lines, crap in the tank and so on... You might want to drain the tank using the bolt on the lower right side of the fuel tank. Inspect the fuel, bang on the tank as it's draining to see if any rust or flakes come out. This will tell you if the tank needs to be replaced are cleaned and coated using a kit like the POR15 Fuel tank sealer kit. Where in Washington are you? Dave

glad you found it. It's the simple things that cause most problems, but it's the simple things that are easily fixed as well. Dave

Sounds like the rubber boot is a little too tight. Or the Leather? boot is pulling it out of gear. The water light could be from a short, a bad sensor or actual trouble in the cooling system. It's obviously gonna take some physical checking on your part to find out which is the colprit. Dave

I've done a whole bunch of power window installs in S30's. I use only the SPAL Universal Deluxe kit. It's Powerful, quiet and seem to be very dependable so far. I do all the drilling with the doors still on. The body hole is done from under the dash area and the door hole is done with a smaller door and long drill bit, inside the door. Here's a few misc. shots. Dave

I am an avid "Two and a Half Men" fan, I can't beleive I missed that one. Cool that you were paying attension. Aparently not my strong suit. Dave

Left side... right side.... is flipped over so the right side mounting tubes (that the bushings slide on) are the same as the left side in relation to front and rear. Confused yet? Try these instead, Dave

What Arne said, no such thing as Left and right. That's what makes it a great part.

I got 5 kids over here, Pretty sure I can show a diff who is boss too. But seriously though, a solid oak or similar wood or a solid lip with a dead blow should knock it loose without any real damage to the aluminum. And the real this putty knife may work, if you can get it between the metals without the knife bending. Good luck.