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Zs-ondabrain

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Everything posted by Zs-ondabrain

  1. If the power from the fusebox goes to the Hazard switch and is supposed to jump thru that switch and to the turn signal, then just do an external jumper on the hazard switch. I would check the hazard for Cont. repair if needed or do the jumper. Hazards are full time where as T/S are a keyed item. If that jumper makes the T/S a non-keyed item, then I would rethink it. Dave
  2. Decent set of triples with Manifold and linkage....... $1500 average Rebuilt Set from ZTherapy, bolted to your stock manifold and linkage...... $630 + Core ( Core is $150 if you don't send them yours) SU's... Barely any Tuning Triples... Tuning X3. Wide band O2 meter, Dyno Tuning is better for peak performance, etc, etc..... I'll let Yetterben fill ya in on the specifics. If the Triples were used and off a well tuned motor (already tuned and ready to go) then you're in luck. Just go with the SU's. BEST damn thing I ever did to my 70' 240Z. Thanks Bruce and Steve. Dave
  3. Hence, My signiture, which is only a click away. Been there like that for a long time now. I figured the Red and Blue writing in the siggy would help it stand out but some just look at the post, and not the rest. I point out the Sponsors a lot. Especially MSA and MM. Read Post 182 and 183. Dave
  4. I Love the Bazooka tubes. I'm half tempted to put an amplified tube in the green Z as a good selling point. And they make for Great rear fill in these small cars. and the green Z already has 4 other speakers so it'll sound amazing, compared to the single speaker it came with..... Dave
  5. here's a couple ways as well. As for the stock kick panel, I just copied it onto a peice of 3/16" MDF and put the stock panel on the shelf. Dave
  6. I think I have one (the one that bolts to the block and pivots the alternator) I'll check later today and get back to ya. Dave
  7. I figured that would have been done a long time ago. But that's what I get for "Ass_U_Ming" So have one of the guys pick the one with the best info and "Sticky" it. So it's always on top of the section. Dave
  8. Bryan, I still make and sell them. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com for prices, shipping and info. Welcome to the club and the great world of Z's. Dave
  9. Plenty of idea's. But without knowing if you're driving a Tractor or what year your Z car is, I can't help ya.
  10. "THAT's what she said!!!" Get to work Tyler, lot to do before the 18th. Dave
  11. Yup, strong second place!!! "Missed it by thaaaat much" We were so lost when it came to scheduling the drive and meeting up with people for the drive down that I totally forgot about it. But there's another NOS event on the 18th
  12. KYB's are a great "STOCK" suspension replacement strut. Tokico HP's and Ilumina's are better for altered suspensions (lowered). Most stock rubber is available but urethane upgrades are every where. I don't think it's possible to ID the struts until they are out. But I could be wrong. You'll find that the Top strut nut is a 17mm if it's aftermarket and 19mm if it's stock. Look under the strut tower cap.
  13. Everybody knows I'm screwing with ya. Gotta pull your chain every now and then to keep ya in line I got real tan but no burns. I know ya do Tyler and that gives me a little room to mess with ya now and then. Already watched them both and even got the new episode of True Blood in. Now I'm watching "The Gates". But will likely pass out real soon. Gonna polish my trophy and go to bed. :wink: Dave
  14. WOW.... Somebody's gettin a little big for his britches, isn't he? I'll remember that the next time you need help Studly McBigBritches It was probably that VW buggy. Dave
  15. I see how ya are Tyler. Don't even bother to tell them that I WON Best Classic Import at the Car Show today. Nice, see if I let ya borrow MY buffer again. Had a blast but I think the dog got more attention than the cars. Dave
  16. air dams, rear spoilers, lowering to keep it low and air efficiant. These cars like to raise in the front at hi speeds. the proper airdam will keep it low and on the ground. Rear wings and spoilers will do the same and put some down force on the rear wheels at higher speeds. Which should keep the car in one lane and in a straight line.
  17. Then your best bet is to do the swap from a well running Turbo ZX. All the internal work is done for ya and you'll be on budget. Dave
  18. I'm still building the 260Z project but plan on running The Rota RB 17x9.5's with 275 or 265/45 or 40's I think the offset is suppost to be -30 But most run a -19 with 255's, If I recall correctly. Let me know what you find out as I too am curious. I have the ZG Flares and have cut 2.75 off the the rear fenders. I have Eibach Lowering springs and KYB struts (for now) but may go with the Tokico's.
  19. If you have an air pocket at the thermostat, in the housing, It will not heat up enough to open the thermostat. Park your Z on a hill, so that the front is higher than the rear, this should help force the air to the highest point so you can completely top off the cooling system. 180 is ideal but I've known people to run 185 and 190's I have a Huge Aluminum Radiator, 50/50 coolant and a 180 stat and my guage still says it's an 1/8" below center on the gauge. Not a bad thing but I was concerned at first. took longer to get her up to temp for best operating temp. Dave
  20. We just went thru this. try this thread. it worked for miles. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=37777
  21. good to hear. knew it was something like that. Always helps to know what you're looking for. Dave
  22. Well, She may be sold to a Gentleman in Wisconsin. He seams VERY intersted. I've been nothing but dead honest with him about everything and he seems fine with the 72's little issues. He's exstatic about everyting I've done to the car thus far and may also have me do a few things more,with his money, so the car is 100% before he drives it home or has it transported. We'll see. At this point in life, I'm a believer when all is said and done, and not until then. Thanks for everyones input so far. I really apreciate it. Dave
  23. Thanks Jim. Patience is a virtue that I've lived by for a long time. I now have 5 kids, if it weren't for patience, I'd likely only have 3 or 4. I may go with a Solid $4000 or find a dent free, clean hood and Paint it a Satin or low gloss black, just to minimize the amount of ("How bad is that hood?") questions. I could really use the Cash now but I'm OK for now. Thanks. Dave
  24. And along comes Ben.... :stupid: Just make sure it's got a good head gasket on the new motor. Ask Ben what that's all about.... I'd say #400 has potential. Hell, I took a 15 year squater and turned it into a great Daily driver that needs minor body work to be a solid 8/10 How bad could #400 be. A little TLC here and there and it can be a Great car, with a faily low Vin. As compared to the Thousands of 240Z's still out there. JMHO Dave
  25. The right side wires are Green/black for the front right and white/red for the rear. The left side wires are green/red for the front left and white/black for the rear. Your diagram doesn't usually show the switch wires, but usually shows the wires up to that connection. The Green wire (center of the turn signal switch = Flasher) connects to a WHITE wire that goes directly to the flasher under the dash. You should be able to find the white wire on the diagram and the other wire on the flasher module is green. That green wire on the T/S flasher goes to the hazard switch and then to the fusebox. Hope that helps. Dave
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