Zs-ondabrain

Look into Eibach Progressive rate lowering springs and Tokico HP struts. Great ride, lower height, helps the tires fill the wheel well better. What size tires and wheels do you have right now? Spring clamps are pointless on a Z car. You can run a 225/50R16 without any rubbing and they fill the well beautifully.

Is the Heat sheild on and doing it's job? Are your chokes slightly on even after dissengaging the choke handle? Are your fuel lines insulated to keep the heat off of them?

Maybe it's time for an R200? Maybe make a cooling duct from the side to move air to the diff for proper cooling? I wouldn't think that dropping the floor would stop all air but apparently it is doing that.

The Engine harness firewall grommet from MSA is $45 friggen bucks for a peice of rubber. The wiper motor firewall grommet from MSA is $25 for an ounce worth of rubber. The radiator support wall rubber (where the harness goes thru) seems to be impossible to find. (This is the small circle of rubber that attaches to the harness feed thru hole, that keeps the harness from rubbing on the metal) The under fender rubber strip (mounts to the body and keeps water from the wheel well from getting into the top area under the fender) Seem to be hard to find, last time I looked. That's off the top of my head Dave

and a home job here. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36984

Gonna attempt to bring BOTH Z's this year. Just installed the 260Z motor into the 70' and the Green Z is gonna get it's SU's back cause I can't tune these Webers without all the right parts and a complete teardown and rebuild isn't possible in the short amount of time I have until we leave for Canby. So I'll throw my old polished SU's onto the 70' and put the Current SU's back onto the green Z so both Me and Tyler will get some decent Gas Milage there and back. I (rather Tyler) would love to drive the green 72' with the triple Webers but I don't think he wants to cover the Gas it'll cost there and back when it's probably under 15MPG. We all hope to leave Saturday Afternoon or noonish. be there about 4pm. Find Bruce and Steve or one of them and see what we all wanna do about the SU instal for the show or the evening. This 2.6 will look and run AWESOME with a new set of tunes ZT SU's. Can't wait. Hell, you could even call me Giddy... Dave

You're right. I remembered last night while installing the new motor in the red Z. If I recall correctly, it's about 19mm taller.

Wow, Ask a simple question and get Rocket Science instead. Thanks but all I wanted to know is..... What should the timing be at for a 2.6 (L26) at 750RPM? That's it. That's all. Pictures as soon as it stops fricken raining. Cause it sure looks pretty Now. With the exception of Chevy Orange block and highlights, but the Polished Everything else looks great. Dave

So me and Tyler got the L26 in today. It looks so damn pretty in the engine bay. Tyler had to leave just after I got it running so he missed the test drive after a few standard adjustments (New clutch = adjust the adjustable pushrod) Top off the fluids, look for leaks, Marked the pulley and set it at 7* @ 750 RPM. All warmed up so I took her for a drive around the block.... Oh MY GOD!!! I've been so used to a 40 year old motor that has smoked from day 1 of ownership that I almost crapped myself when I laid on it. It was a little wet out so the tires kicked out from under me, rocked it sideways in a drift motion for about 150 feet, hit third and was GONE!!! Same exhaust, same carbs, no stage 2 cam but this thing sounds Raspy as all get out. Almost no smoke worth mentioning, drops back down to idle-nice and smooth without a stutter. had it idling at 400RPM at one point, and it was smooooth to say the least. She's now at a perfect 750 RPM and good to go. What should my timing be at @ 750rpm?? Dave

So in that case, would the 4 cylinders be the same? I was always told this......... L16 = 1.6 liter standard pistons and stroke L18 = 1.8 liter with larger pistons but same stroke as L16 L20B= 2.0 liter with large pistons of 1.8L but longer stroke. Would this be correct? and if so, do the 2.4 / 2.6 / 2.8 use the same principle? just wondering. Dave

popping and banging out the rear is too much fuel and back firing out the carbs is typical of too lean. if there is no power after 3KPRM, it could be a few things. Lack of fuel or air will allow it to idle and rev while parked but lag under a load (while driving) Also, a bad coil will do the same thing. Won't run under a load but will idle and free-rev just fine.

Well, I had to bite the bullet today and make a decision I didn't wanna make so close to Canby. After fixing the water pump and freeze plugs, I took it for a test drive to heat it up and check for leaks....... I blew so much smoke around the neighborhood that I thought they'd hunt me down and do a good old fashioned Linching. My rings, valves and motor in general is just shot. I burn thru over a quart of oil per tank of gas. If not more. SO.......... The 260Z motor has been sitting there and it's better in a car than out. So me and Tyler and my neighbor started pulling everything off the motor and transfering everything over for tomorrows SWAP. Gonna borrow a friends hoist and try and whip it out in a few hours. I'll let ya know how it goes. But at least I won't be smoking everyone out at Canby this year. I typically take the rear of the line of Z's to help everyone avoid breathing my smokey exhaust. Just ask Arne and Gary. Dave

The Unilite is supposed to run the same as a points distributor. So however a stock dizzy works.... That's the way the Unilite was designed. As a drop in replacement. Ground the brown wire, and the green is the trigger wire (to the Neg on the coil) can't remember where the red goes off the top of my head. It can take hours to weeks to blow the module, but it will fail if 12 volts is fed too long. I only know this because a friend blew his after 2 weeks without a ballast resistor. He didn't drive it much so there's no telling how long it really took. Dave

Unilites for the Datsun 240Z DO NOT GET 12 volts!! They are designed to run on about 10 volts via the ballast resistor. 9.5 volts DC is optimal. So make sure your ballast resistor is up to par. If it's not, you'll blow the module. And at about $80 a pop, it can be a pricey mistake. Dave

Hell, you can drive it down there like that (in the condition it's in) You might even find the parts you need. (preformed doglegs, lower quarters, decking, etc, etc. Dave

kinda verbatim? And diddo on the J-bolts. Dave

and the new Oxygenated fuels break loose particles and such like water does. Fuel slows rust by not allowing oxygen to reach the bare metal but Oxygenated fuel gives the rust air to help it rust. Kind of a catch 22, better oxygen in the fuel but it can loosen deposits and clog the filter and such. What do ya do? Dave

took the words outa my mouth Arne. He has a 70' 240Z. they didn't have Charge lights till much later on. Nice thought though. Dave

sounds like you got a couple of issues. Check for vacuum leaks around the throttle shaft ( spray carb cleaner around the shaft, if the idle drops, you gotta leak, as carb cleaner doesn't ignite like fuel) Pull the Dome and clean out the backfire suet off the inner dome and off the pistons outer rings. this will allow a little easier movement. When you put the dome back on, pay attension to the piston. make sure it's free to move up and down as you tighten each screw. alignment is the key. With the engine at a higher RPM (around 2500 to 3000) spray the inside clean with some carb cleaner. This'll free up some crap. Might also be time to pull the fuel hose on the floats and clean them out and clean out the floatbowls. These carbs don't need Constant attension but minor cleaning and adjustments shouldn't be ignored. Keep it clean, lubed where needed, check your oil level in the top pot. Look real close at the dipstick, it'll have 2 small lines that the oil level should sit between. I use a 50/50 mix of household oil and 20 weight motor oil. Some use 5 weight, tranny fluid and other concoctions to achieve a smooth lift and drop of the piston. Make sure your linkage balls are cleaned and relubed using some Silglide or similar lube. Make sure your return springs are good and holding the throttle shafts closed when you're not giving it gas. That's all I got for fixing on a budget. Just woke up and got a large order to fill. Dave

I use bicycle tire rubber and spray glue to hold it on, the tank will do the rest of the work to keep it there. It's bare metal, paint it or protect it somehow. Rust is rust and will eat your strap over time. I POR15's mine.

Well that's kind of a given. But I use the clear (clowdy glass) 5-min. 2 part epoxy. It's much more pricey than the hot glue ($0.10 a 12" stick) as compared to the $4.00 for 0.84 oz. but I won't change the price due to a personal decision. Very easy to tell which is which. The hot glue is punturable with your fingernail. The epoxy is almost glass hard and un-markable with your fingernail. I made the switch about 2 months ago. Let us know what they say

Sounds like it's time to rebuild your Carbs or invest in some New ZTherapy ZT carbs. You can't go wrong and it sounds like the carbs, not the ignition. Can you say "Spring Cleaning"? Dave

MSA told me that they had 6 customer returns on the ZXP and alternator upgrade they sell. I'm thinking it was a bad batch of Alternators. They said the customers complained of overnight Battery Drain. Their thought was that the ZXP was to blame. I explained to them of the simplicity of a Jumper and a 1-amp Diode. The older ZXP's used Hot glue but tended to melt the glue out and onto the car when overheated under normal use. I have since been using a clear 5-minute Epoxy in place of the glue as it is rock hard and won't melt. The Thought again was that the Epoxy was shorting out the jumper to the diode. I explained the impossibility of the rock hard epozy transfering electricity. I think that was the end of it as they ordered more ZXP's to bring their stock up. I'm thinking alternator or bad wiring to the ZXP. My 70's wires were snapping when I moved the VR around. They were brittle and it was time to refresh them (cut them down and add the ZXP. Dave

Yup, nothin but brass now. not likely to ever skimp in this area again. Ever.. Dave

Haven't had a chance to get to anything on the 260Z lately cause of 3 large orders from Motorsport, a New (to me) 72' 240Z and a bunch of other roadblocks. Sorry, Dave