Zs-ondabrain

Thanks Bart, and it's conversations with customers like yourself that make it worth it sometimes. I really appreciate all the kind comments from everyone. like I said, it was a rash decision and one I hope to never make again. It was a bad day, let's just chalk it up to that. Thanks again guys. Dave

I WILL be at the MSA West Coast Nationals this year. I hope to meet as many of you as possible. Come on over, introduce yourself and shoot the ****e for a bit. Come meet my Beautiful Wife and give me a much needed "Atta Boy" on the work I've done on the car. I need that kinda thing to keep going. Plus it makes the 2400 mile round trip, worth it. Thanks again to All. I didn't really wanna leave but the devil on my shoulder was pretty convincing at the time. Dave

Hey guys. Many of you had read and were following the thread I wrote titled "9 1/2 year member saying Goodbye" I think I need to clear up a few things. I had a very bad week and was on edge for most of the week previous to the Saturday thread. Apparantly there were some glitches, both in the software at CZCC and in my brain. Best way to explain it was I was asked about being a Club Sponsor, then my thread had dissapeared. That, and the previous week sent me over the edge. Like I told mike, "I'm SO NOT That Guy" I'm calm, cool and collective, I keep my head in the worst of situations. So I have No idea where last weeks thred came from, it's just not what I normally do. Me and Mike discussed it in detail. Apologies were made on both sides. We agreed that me up and leaving wasn't very fair to anyone who I have or may help in the future. Yes, I've slowed down my frequency of visits lately. Mostly due to the lack of new threads with content that that hasn't already been covered. New members really need to learn the Search function, on this and every car related site. Most car sites have been up for years, which means tons of compiled info over the years. If you have an issue with your 240Z, IT"S Been Covered at least once. Mike says he's looking for a way to retreive the "SENT" box PM's that dissapeared do to Programming which automatically kills PM's when you're "WARNED" I was wrong to air the Preverbial Dirty Laundry in public, and I apologize for that. So I'll be sticking around for a while longer. If you guys don't mind, that is..... Dave

Thank you! I always appreciate a good word. I just don't make enough to cover the costs and make it worth doing. I'm suppost to be earning a living for me and my family but the time and money it takes to make these, compared to actual earning at a regular job, versus working at home and being around family, etc, etc, it's hard to decide if it's worth staying home. So if I raise the price, Yes that would probably make it worth it But raising the price scares the Budget minded builders away. $30 more, say $200 each and $230 for the Remote option, seems to be better spent on a brake upgrade or New seats. It's a tough ballance when you try and price something high enough to make it worth it, but low enough to apeal to the folks on a budget. See what I mean? Thanks again Fire, Dave

‎*ATTENTION* 5 Left folks. Once they are gone, THEY ARE GONE. I don't think I'm gonna make any more after this. I don't charge enough to really warrent making them. So get one now, last chance.... Pre-pay using Paypal to wolfin32z@yahoo.com I'm building them right now. They will be ready to ship in 3 to 4 weeks or less. $170 for the standard DZ-Start complete kit. $195 for the DZ-Start with Remote Security Option. Prices include shipping in the USA. When you Pre-pay using Paypal, please leave a "Note to seller" telling me what the payment is for, if the shipping address is correct and what it's going into. LAST CHANCE FOLKS. When they are gone, They Are Gone. Thanks in advance, Dave

Here's one for ya.... http://www.facebook.com/events/225712627509702/?ref=ts#!/events/304058329649668/ There Was another but it didn't show attendies or anything else. Thanks Greg. I'm already registered for the BBQ, Carwash, Dyno time for 10am, Saturday Banquet and the car show on sunday. We WILL BE THERE this year with smiles on. Doing a lot to the car to make is a little more One of a kind. Redoing the LED's with brighter lights and Sequencial rear turn signals, smoked lenses and HID's, 17x9.5 Rota's and ZG fender flares. Much more than that but it's a teaser list. See Ya'll there. Dave and Leah

Here's my issue(s) Rears rub when the car is loaded and with dips in the road and do stick out about 1.25 to 1.5 inches. Fronts barely stick out but will rub on dips in the road at higher speeds.

Today I did some serious contemplating....... I will be going to the MSA Zcar event at the end of April. And with that, I've decided to use the 17x9.5" Rota's with 275/40ZR17's in the rear and 245/45ZR17's in the front. The problem is they WILL RUB with a full tank of gas,luggage and passenger..... So my big contemplation is to cut the fenders a bit, for clearance and instal the ZG flares. It's gut renching to think of cutting into my baby but I LOVE THESE WHEELS so much!!! If I do it right and tastefull, it will be worth it. But should I ever decide to change, I'm screwed. I'll likely do it either way as my heart is really set on doing the ZG Fender flares and wide wheels. But I thought I'd see what you guys thought, or at least get it out there in script so I can look back and say "Well, at least I thought about it first, this time" Dave

The same 2 bolts that are already holding the diff mount to the diff. about 4" long with the nuts and washers on top of the diff.

You're using the GM Mount so You'll have to, or would be better off, dropping the diff downwards in the front. The GM Mount Bolts to teh top of the diff and the 2 bolts that hold the stock diff mount need to be removed in order to do that. Lower the diff by dropping the cross-member and loosening the 2 large nuts on the mustach bar. This will allow it to drop more than normal. Remove the strap and instal the R/T mount. Place the GM mount stud into the R/T mount top and just thread the nut on a few turns to hold it there. On the diff, Remove the 2 big bolts, remove the lower diff mount, place the bolts back in the diff without the washers, place one washer on each bolt on top of the diff, raise the diff so the bolts go through the holes of the GM Mount. Then put the nuts on to hold the diff to the GM Mount and slowly raise it to make sure it's all aligned before bolting it all together and tight. Once you're sure that it'll all go good, bolt it down. Tighten the nut on top of the R/T, tighten the 2 large nuts on the back of the diff (mustache bar) and bolt up your cross member without the lower diff mount. *CAUTION* The heads of the 2 bolts may try and hit the cross member. IF this happens, just remove the cross member after marking where the bolts hit. Use a ball peen hammer to dent the crossmember enough to allow the bolt heads to Not hit when mounted. If it rubs when driving, you'll hear it in the cab and it'll be loud and drive you nuts. I've installed about 6 of these using both the bump stop and the GM Mount. Bump stop is easier and sandwiches the diff on the upper and lower. Unless you're doing a V8 swap, I suggest you do the Bump stop instead of the GM MOunt. ($12 for 2 at your local auto parts store. Dave

PM sent. Thanks for the push Dave.. Dave

Block them off. You are correct, just SMOG ports that are not needed if the rest of your emmisiions crap is gone. As for it idling high, turn the idle screws out enough and it'll basically die. Not sure why yours are idling so high, but bringing out the screws should definately lower the idle.

Good, I like it. I has a 72' 240Z that was an avacodo? Metalic Green repaint. I loved the color AND the car but needed the money to cover the other habit, my 70' series 1. Dave

I have a Full FI system for sale if anyone is interested. Just removed from a 76' 280Z. Hoses need to be renewed, whole system needs to be gone thru and cleaned for Great operation but it did run before removing it just yesterday. We wanted to run the new Pace Setter header and a new Stage 2 cam, as well as upgrade the Currently (just) installed SU's to ZTherapy SU's soon. Responce is much better, starts easier, and just sounds much better. Anyone want to buy it? Sorry to jump in but there it is. Dave

Welcome to the club. Beautiful Z's ya got there. Is the green 280Z a repaint? I like it. Dave

anything from household oil, 20 weight to Transmission fluid. Steve from ZTherapy used Tranny fluid in my new ZT SU's. It's all about viscosity and the weight of the oil determines how fast or slow the piston rises and how fast you'll hit high RPM's. If you relly want to know about SU carbs, go to www.ztherapy.com and order their "Just SU's" video. watch it a few times, let it sink in and go play with your SU's with a lot more knowledge than I started with.... I think they are one of our sponsors, so help keep the site up by purchasing from our supporters. Dave

Sounds like your hazard switch And or the turn signal switch needs to be rebuilt. Brake lights go through both units.

BS!! I got there first, slowpoke. You sure you drive a Z? HAHAHA

http://www.preeng.com/xcart/home.php?cat=3 Try this

I don't know if it's been mentioned yet but I was watching "The Postman" with Kevin Costner. In the begining of the movie, him and the Dog are at an abandoned Gas station, they shoot a shot of him from the shop area of the gas station and there is a 260Z hatch and tail lights, (the hatchback has what looks like there used to be 240Z badging but the lights are clearly 260/280Z tail lights. Had to do a double take and rewind it to make sure. Dave

I think I'm still on the OP's original topic, to a point. I'm building a motor, want it to be ballanced and high and quick revving, and need some input. Maybe some of what is explained to me will help the OP in his own build. I HAD a clue as to the Notching. And was thinking Slugs were pistons. I'm looking at the .040 over pistons on zcarsource. http://www.zcarsource.com/piston-set-040-1-00mm-oversize-70-74-new_8_52804_50971.html Fair priced (under $200 and includes 6 Pistons, 6 Wrist Pins and Ring Set. Simple set. Using my ownrods that will be matched to each other. everything will be ballanced to the microgram. The ballanced internals and lightened/ballanced flywheel will help it rev faster and cleaner. and obviously the bored motor, with stage 3 cam and new SU's should increase the HP to help get it in the upper RPMs faster. Like I said, I want streetable with decent gas milage, but able to drop it down a gear and wipe the smirk off some idiot Rice Racer's face when I need to. Dave

This motor needs to be streetable. I love my stage 2 but if you think stage 3 will be ok for street and strip then that's what I'll do. OK, so Flat tops, Notch the Piston Bores and unshroud the head. The 8/70' 240Z, or at least mine, came with an E31 head. Which met it's maker a long time ago. The valves had all overseated and the head was trashed and unsalvagable. If you eyeballed the top of all the valves, it looked like a bad mountain scape. all the valves sat at different heights. I'm still learning the terminologies so if you guys could explain "Notching" and "Custom Slugs" and "Unshrouding the head"??? I just need to know what to tell the machine shop when I go in, whithout looking like a total duffis. Dave

OK, So back on subject...... As I, a simple guy with little knowledge of rebuilding a motor, Need some help and answers without getting too technicle on me........ I want to rebuild my worn out, numbers matching 2.4 liter block. I want to do a 30 over bore, ZcarSource 30 over pistons, fully ballanced crank, rods, Dampener and flywheel (lightened to 17 pounds) Through "Perpetual Ballance LLC" a local company I have a rebuilt N42 head but want to port and polish it and do a Stage 2 cam (480/274) 6-into-1 ceramic coated header, 2.5" exhaust, turbo muffler ZTherapy SU's on ported intakes. Electronic Ignition The Flywheel is a 240mm 2+2 style that will be lightened to 17 pounds then ballanced. So with this in mind. Should I buy Flat top or dished pistons? What will my Compression Ratio be close to? Do I need a special head gasket (thicker or stock?) I've wanted to do this for a long time and this credit card is burning a hole in my pocket. I was quoted $170 for the 30 over bore. Under $50 for the flywheel to be resurfaced and lightened Under $200 for the pistons, Rods, flywheel and crank to be ballance and matched to each other (rods and pistons) Pistons are $192, Gasket kit is $80, Rod and main bearing kit is $90 ZTherapy SU's $630 plus a few other parts. So I'm thinking a $2000 budget should cover everything. But I'm wondering what I'll get for that $2000?? Aprox HP, Compression ratio, torque? any clues or do I need more info? Dave

Sorry, just woke up (late night) Arne beat me to it.

That's awesome, what a small world. Brian is the one that designed the circuit boards for the DZ-Start (push button ignition) His silver/grey 240Z with SB Ford and quad Weber set-up is incredible. Dave