Zs-ondabrain

Nothing wrong with FI. But it's a 240Z, Barbs are a "Snap" compared to FI and all the wiring, fuel, AFM, Computer, etc, etc. Carbs include 2 carbs, linkage, 2 fuel lines, manual pump and an air cleaner. That's about it. No TPS, CSV, AFM, Injectors, throttle bodies, many vaccum hoses, electrical connectors from hell, computers, hi pressure fuel pump and lines, and the list goes on. He's looking to get the car on the road, he's got 2 motors and it's easier to pop in the 2.8, carbs, header and call it done. No offence intendid, just pointing out the obvious, not pokin fun. Have a great week, Dave

early 260Z's were almost basically late 73' 240Z's. That might explain it.

I'm with Bruce on this one. It's a 240Z, do the SU's. Or better yet, do the 280Z motor with SU's for a little more power and reliability. And I would definately suggest you look at www.ztherapy.com for their SU set-up. *Best in the business*, as far as I'm concerned. And they work fine in cold weather, that's what the choke is for. That and a garage. Dave

"When E. F. Hutton speaks, everybody listens" I get it, surprised Sblake01 didn't. It's a joke........ Sorry, guess it's too early round here.

same story here, picked up the 260Z from the PO and the left rear was stuck. Towed it home with dollys on the rear. Took the dollys off the rear and pushed it backward into the driveway. Couple times of forward and backward to get her lined up in the driveway actually broke it loose. Lined up the hole and loosened the adjuster to get the drum off. try this thread for adjuster info. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32303

it should have a "C" clip on one end of the pin. you should be able to pull the clip and slide the pin out. Kinda confused by the "Nut" thing.

So after a few weeks of really BAD brakes. I ordered front pads and rear shoes on thursday. Got them in later that day but decided to do the job today. So in the process of trying to open the gap between pads on the calipers, THEY WON"T Budge. I could only get the outer left side to move at all. So it turns out that both are corroded and non functional and I've been using EXACTLY 1 brake pad to stop the whole car. Pretty neat huh? So Schucks had 2 rebuilt calipers in stock, took the rotors down to be turned (had 12.43mm left so I was good to go) Removed all the old grease, repacked the bearings and hubs, replaced a few bad studs and threw it all back together. HOLY CRAP Batman, I've got brakes now!! Had my 12 year old daughter do brake pedal duty while I bled the fronts and the Master Cylinder. Took her for a test drive and the difference is Night and day. So Now I need to tear the rear apart and see if I can fix the rear cylinders. Anyone know what the Bleeder size is so I can tell the parts store if I'm successful at removing the old ones?? Dave

The Microfiche says there is but who knows. 47210-E4625 is the number Dave

Thanks Guys, Think I'll leave it on CD as I don't use it that much and save room on the HD. And it turns out there is no rebuild kit for the post 8/71 to 6/72 master Vac. damnit!! So I guess I gotta save my pennies and buy a new or real good one. Dave

I quess before any of us could give you an honest answer, we'd need to know a few things about yourself. Are you good with a wrench? How many years experience do you have, mechanically? Do you know 12 volt systems? Are you Patient? How deep are your pockets? Do you know how to use the Search button? Are you willing to take advice willingly? without argument. 80% of the people who respond on this site are well rounded, experience, patient Z car owners with 2 to 40 years of experience under their belt. Some of us even make a living doing nothing other than Zcar related business. So answer a few questions, put it all out there. The more we know, the better we can help. I would never suggest a ZX as a first car unless it was in great shape, as mentioned above. Even 240Z's are more "Projects" than buy and drive cars. FWIW Dave

So are you looking to replace the foam? If so, I went to the craft store and found one of those 1/2" thick foam soda can insulators, used to keep your drink cold in the summer. It's a closed cell foam and won't retain water. Costs about $1.00, cut it into squares to sit on the perches, glue in place and instal the fender. You can see the yellow foam I used on mine in the picture below. These should also help for when you or others decide to Lean on the fender up top.

If the turn signal lights in the dash will be LED but all the exterior lights (taillights, sidemarkers and front markers) are all standard bulbs (non-LED) then just use the one I suggested above. If you're changing the taillights or front marker/turn signal lights to LED, then use one of these.... Self adjusting for LED applications. Just ground the ground wire and connect the other 2 terminals like normal. http://www.bulbtown.com/EF32RL_ELECTRONIC_FLASHER_p/ef32rl.htm

Good to hear ya got it. So now I'll suggest an electronic flasher for your Z. They are a circuit instead of a Thermal load, which means they require less resistance to operate. Less resistance is better on the wires that typically fail, such as your green wire. They run about $8, plug in just like your old one and have a consistant flash timing, not messed with because of low voltage at idle. I use them in all my Z's and have seen much less deteriation on the contacts of the turn signal switch. I rebuild them on the side and pull mine every once in a while just to check. Similar to this one but yellow and only 15 amps and 12 volts.

So I found out that I can open Adobe reader 9, then OPEN NEW, Click on computer and cd drive and choose a file that way. But on my old computer it would run normally. So how do I just pop the cd in and go from there without having to search for it thru the whole adobe process. Like I used to be able to do? Dave.

Hee's what I wrote Mike just minutes ago and figured I'd shoot it here as well...... So I'm trying to use the microfiche and it won't let me click on anything and actually come up. I tried the whole "Go into adobe Preferences" thing and the instructions are for adobe reader 4. I have adobe 9 and the "Allow Web browser integration" button is nowhere to be found on 9. What am I doing wrong or is there a new instruction for looking up part numbers on the cd. I only get the first 27 pages and it tells me........ "The document is trying to connect to... file./////E:/ZCD/BASEQ3/PAK/YODA/S30_5c.pdf If you trust the site, choose Allow, If you do not trust the site, choose Block" I choose ALLOW and it does nothing. Please help this idiot figure out my puter problem. Any help would be great running Vista 64 bit IE7 I think Adobe Acrobat 9 Dave

Well, I tried, sorry. Hey Arne, what's your take on the whole small booster issue I'm having? POST #16 Dave

I had the same problem with my wing nuts. So I used a 1/4" ratchet with 2) 6" extensions, a swivel (U-joint) and then I took a spare 1/2" socket and cut a 1/8" wide grove into it on both sides (looking into the socket, cut at 12 and 6 o'clock) This slips over the wingnut and allows force on both wings when trying to break it loose. On you back, Look up into the dash, right hand holding the ratchet, left hand goes up thru the tach side and places the socket onto the wing nut. Easier said than done but it worked for my stubborn wingnuts. I had to do it blindly cause I can't fit my BIG head up past the pedals.

Just throwing it out there........ Make a ground wire with a 1/4" or 3/16" ring terminal on it, undo one of the wingnuts on the gauge in question, slide the ring terminal on there and replace the wing nut, tighten it up. Then ground that wire to a Well known good ground in the same area. You can even use a length of wire without attaching it, to test my theory. Most likely a bulb issue but if the ground is bad on the gauge, this may help. Good luck, Dave

Thanks, I know most of what you stated, I was just hoping that someone might know off the top of their head. By the way, your 9/70 240Z is a 70'. The dealer may have licensed it as a 71' to mark up the price for a NEW model year Z but it is in fact a 70'. Much has been posted and discussed about the whole "What year is my Z" so the info is around here if you do a little searching or care to even look. On the books, a 70' is worth more than a 71'. Just a neighborly FYI. Have a great week, Dave

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37905 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13638 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8094 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24218 These should help, a little.

Without making the call myself or at the current time (late at night) Does anyone know if Nissan or ANYONE had a rebuilt kit (diaphram) for the early Brake Booster (small one in the 11/71 240Z?? If this is an NLA part, does anyone have a spare small booster for sale, trade, gift?? I have almost no brakes till I fix this on a budget. Thanks in advance, Dave

This is definately a great upgrade. The earlier Z's had the metal cage, or at least my 70' had metal as did my early 71' (12/70) The swap is very easy and I definatly noticed the difference. Then again, my metal fan was unballanced and caused a bad vibration, in turn causing a slower top speed. The 260Z got this upgrade but I had to Modify the fan box by cutting a 3/16" lip off the fan box, as the 260Z fan blade and opening is 3/8" smaller diameter. I tested the 260Z fan before pulling it from the box with a fully charged battery. The fan did well on all 4 speeds. BUT!!!! After cutting a larger opening for the onda upgrade and testing again with the same motor, The difference was night and day. The force of air from the new motor and fan blade was almost enough to MOVE the fan box in the oposite direction of the opening triangle. HI speed was a fricken Tornado compared to the Datsun motor and fan. Can't wait to get the 260Z done to see the end result in a rebuilt car. The new green 240Z (72') will get this upgrade as well. My 12 year old Daughter can blow more hot air than this thing can. Seriously. Dave

NOt even gonna try to catch up to you guys..... Licenced in 1989 (late starter I guess) 1975 Mustang 2 (First car) 1978 Datsun 510 (A10 2 door hatchback) 1977 Celica GT (Sold it for $200) 1979 Chevy Luv (Sold to a guy to V8 it) 1987? Honda CRX (Ex-wife rolled it) 1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager (the Family Van, Was FREE) 1970 Datsun 240Z (First Z) (Still Own it) 1971 Dastun 240Z (Got it as a parts car, Was FREE, was T-boned) 1971 Datsun 240Z (Sold to IanMonster, a$$) 1972 Datsun 240Z (Got it for free) (Still Own It) 1974 Datsun 260Z (current Project) (still Own It) That's about 1 every 2 years. Though I've owned the 70' for 8 years, the 510 for 5 years and the van for 5 years. Good average I guess. Dave

when you say you checked the fuses, how did you test them?? I ask because just looking, doesn't work. Pull each and every fuse, test it with an ohms meter, clean the fuse clips and give them a little squeeze to make sure they're holding the fuses good and tight when you put them back in. Test the green wire on the turn signal flasher (under the dash). It should have power with the key in the ON position. If you don't have power at the green wire then the fusebox needs to be checked again. If you have power at the green wire at the flasher, with the key ON, then you should also have power at the green wire on the trun signal switch. It's on the metal switch in the middle. If there's power there, then turn on the turn signal (left or right) and test the outer wires on that switch (white/red, green/white OR white/black, green/red) If there's no signal at those wires, then the switch needs to be repaired. Let us know what you find. Dave

NOt likely. Unless you find 45 other people who want one. If not, talk to Roostmonkey over at hybrid. Dave