Zs-ondabrain

I'm doing 10 gauge for a few reasons actually. 1) The distance from the batteries distribution block, on the firewall, to the very back of the car. 2) The fuel pump will pull 12 to 16 amps, The Brake lights will each have a small relay as well. 3)Anything else I decide to add back there will have a good power supply. I'll also be running a 4 gauge power wire along side that for the 2 amps that will be located in their new homes in the quarter panels. I might also tap that wire for the new Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT's memory and power wire. And maybe even the Power windows, alarm and shaved door popper's. But at least the fuel pump, no matter which one I end up with (maybe even the stock unit) will have sufficiant power and NO strain on the stock system, due to the power wire and relays. Dave Now back to the subject.....

And another alternative for us in the NorthWest is the annual Maryhill drive on April 17 & 18th Scroll down to APRIL for all the info, including meeting place and times, full directions and driving schedule....... http://www.zccw.org/zforum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10 Awesome tour, great sites, people and cars. We'd love to see more S30's than anything else this year. Here's some pics from last years drive.... http://zccw.org/zforum/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=252

On my 260Z project, I plan to run a 10 gauge power wire to the rear of the car and use a standard relay off that power wire, controlled by the regular fuel pump wire. This will severely reduce the current going thru the stock relay wires so I won't have a melt down up front. I plan on running my 40 DCOE's and a mechanical fuel pump block off plate. trying to keep that 4 PSI is tough on the mechanical. probably go with the carter and fuel pressure cut-off. Dave

The stock connector for behind the dash area is just an inline fuse loop that plugs in there. I think it's a 15 amp fuse? I could be wrong. Dave

Gotta love that 150% mark up from wholesale pricing. I've been an installer for almost 24 years, worked at Car-Toys for about 5 years, I'm an MECP certified installer with several "Installer of the Month" Certificates. I spent a lot of my free time, when not installing in the bay, out on the sales floor talking with customers about their choices in amplifiers, speakers nad head-units. The best sales line was always "You get what you pay for" "If you spend $50 on a CD player, you're only gonna get $50 worth" I typically helped them choose.... Pioneer Head Units Infinity Reference Series Speakers and MTX Amps. Great products for a great price. Great reliability as well. When I was in the bay, I threw away more Sony head-units and swapped them for Pioneers. Watched WAY TOO MANY Rockford Fosgate amps Catch on FIRE!! than I care to remember. Anyways, The cold-cathode tube lights aren't that fragile. They are sealed in an acrylic tube withsolid square acrylic ends. The kits are simple. Just take it out of the box, find the white plug with a red and black wire on it, follow the wires from that plug as far as possible and cut them from the computer case plate and plugs then throw that stuff away. Use the supplied velcro or even a couple zip ties to hold the light tubes where you want them as long as the light cords can still plug into the blue converter box. Connect the red power wire to the cigarette lighter and the black ground wire to the closest door pin wire. They are conncted in the harness so either one will do. The good thing about the cold cathode tube lights is they only draw .5 amps. Which is way less than the stock dome light requires. And they are way less pricey than the LED's of the same brightness. which the ones you mentioned are not. (as bright). CCT lights have 360 light output (tube) Check this out.... Cold Cathode Tube lights and are only $5.50 for a dual set. I just grabbed 2) you're gonna love what I have planned for the 260Z. (Mua ha ha ha) Let the evil laughing commence. Dave

I'm sure it'll be a blast!! But not worth the 2400 mile round trip this year. Takes a day and a half to drive there, leaving Marysville on Wed. afternoon, show up in Anaheim on thursday evening. BBQ, garage sale, dinner at the comedy/ribs place, car wash, nice sat. drive, sunday car show, leave Anaheim and take a 2 day trip up the coast, stay at a cozy, romantic, (gotta make her happy too) Ocean view hotel for the night, head home the next day. all about 6-1/2 to 7 days of Vacation, driving, seeing old friends, making new ones and enjoying 7 days away from the kids. But a one day event ain't cutting it this year. Think I'll spend my $2K on the 260Z instead. Dave

Nope, not really. I omitted a few and covered the rest with The Fat Mat in the 260Z. The plugs were installed for draining purposes only. They come in handy if your heater core blows and dumps a ton of coolant on the floor. But that's about it. Dave

I'm the guy in Marysville that he knows. I think Dylan (the green 510 owner) is Z_Tyler_Z's best friend. Love stories like that. Tyler was at my house last night at that time, so we didn't here about the story, as we were in the driveway. I have proof...... That's tyler in his 280Z. Dave

Did a little more today, wore out all my sanding disks (flap style) so I bought some heavy duty80 grit disks that actually screw on. They work awesome. Touched up a few more welds and did a little pounding here and there. When the sun comes out, I'll start throwing some filler on there and start getting the shape I want. And there's even a shot of Z_Tyler_Z working on his 76' and a shot of what all driveways should look like......

Almost looks like you need new gaskets on the top plates. That's what mine needed when it leaked like that. Dave

And then you get the fun of dealing with people arguing that "It's Orange!!" and the others who demand that "It's red!!" And it all depends on the time of day or what light you're in. I deal with that on a daily basis. But either way, it's obviously getting the attention that it needs. I like what ya got there, Dave

That WAS the plan but unless I win the Lotto this week, it ain't happening. Probably won't be on the road till June or July now. Likely later than that. I did however order the 3) sets of 5-1/4" Alpine SPS speakers and the 2 Alpine MRP amps (M500 mono amp and the F300 4-channel amp) so I can start making custom panels and pods including the custom door panels with pods. I'll email you in a bit. Dave

Spent a little time on the 260Z today. Finished up the Reverse light and cut the hole out under the plate recess. I bought 3) LB3 LED light bars that have 6 High Flux 60 Degree LEDs per bar for a total of 18 Super brite High Flux LED's (same LED's as the License plate light) Superbrightleds.com Desoldered all the LED's and resistors and put them all side by side on a peice of radio shack perf board (unprinted circuit board) Pic #2 Made another ABS box with reflective aluminum foil inside and a 3/16" Plexiglass top that I shaved the side to fit the metal cut-out of the taillight plate. I also bought a 2' X 2' sheet of light defusor plastic for kitchen lights. Cut a peice to fit inside the box and glued it to the plexiglass and that to the box. Pic #1, 3, 4, 5, 6, and Picture 7 show how bright it is on the ceiling of the garage. Camera don't do it justice though, IT'S BRIGHT!!! I also had to figure out a way to mount the reverse light AFTER welding and paint. And do it without drilling holes in the outer plate for a flush look. So I cut 2 sheets of steel and bolted them to the inner rear plate, welded 2 nuts to the body, and bolted the plates to the body which allows me to turn the 2 inside screws to push the plates up against the reverse light box and make it flush against the outer body... Sounds confusing but it works like a charm and you'll never see the work it took to get it to work properly and correctly. Pic #8 and 9. You can't see the welded nuts under the plates. I also welded the rear plate on FINALLY!!! What a fracken pain in the butt. My Welder sucks donkey balls. But I got it on. Now there's a lot of grinding to do then a lot of filling and sanding. I'm bitching but at least things are getting done, even if it's slowly. Pic #10 Dave

I don't know. I wasn't thinking straight, it's bill day and I figured I would kill that bird as well. I forgot that I normally pay AT the show. I was thinking "Get the shirt and hoody before they're gone. I'll just pay when I get there on Sunday Morning. Your car on the other hand is "Show" worthy as apposed to mine. I was gonna enter in the modified because there is too much done to it to be stock. I think I'll just go to go. Dave But I'm still gonna get me a shirt and hoody....

Just filled out everything and hit the "PayPal" button and got this.... "Microsoft OLE DB Provider for SQL Server error '80040e14' Incorrect syntax near 's'. /Canby10/Cars/C_Submit.asp, line 416 " Anyone else have this problem while registering?

Actually, I have a small supply of silver POR15's brake lines. But it was not done properly. A lot of the nuts are painted in a perminant setting and are now useless. So if you do it, be careful to seal the nut from the line so it don't freeze in place. You know what I mean. Dave

I would need the whole kit, bar, brackets, mounts and bolts, end links and all urethane. I'll look into it this week. Thanks again guys, Dave

You want tempting? The MRP- F300 starts at only $132 on Amazon. Not bad for a small 4 channel amp, eh? http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRP-F300-Amplifier-V-Power-4-channel/dp/B0013TVALU And the mono sub amp (MRP-M500) is only $139 to start. http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-M500-MRP-M500-Amplifier-1-channel/dp/B0013TQ6FK/ref=pd_cp_e_2_img Sorry to put you thru this... Dave

http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/showthread.php?t=88856 When? We will meet on: Sunday, March 28, 2010 at 7 AM Where? We will meet at: Nordstrom 3200 184th St SW Lynnwood, WA 98037 CLICK HERE FOR DIRECTIONS We will head to: Golden Gardens Park 8498 Seaview Pl NW Seattle, WA 98117 CLICK HERE FOR DIRECTIONS Contact If you need help with directions or anything: Call/txt: (253) 347-7667 Email: asmar@tmomail.net Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/asmarrazzaq MySpace: http://www.myspace.com/usmen

So I was basically right, I was kinda taking a shot in the dark when I described the weight loss with losing the bumpers and shocks.

Thanks guys. oldhemi.... That's actually silver POR15. it just looks grey in the old picture. That's my 70's suspension and now I need to do the same on the 260Z. I'll call summit this week Jon, Thanks for the input. BTW, Just got back from the XXX in Issaquah, Saw MikeB and his son there. We're all hoping to get together for the Golden Gardens event in March. You going? Dave

I've looked everywhere but I'm obviously missing something. I'm looking for this kit below..... I need the bar, end links, hanger plates and mounting brackets with Urethane bushings.. After doing the rear disk brake conversion on the 260Z, the E-Brake cable bracket is now in the way, making the stock bar and body mounts obsolete or useless. Please help, Dave

Alpines new amps are small and powerful and will fit almost anywhere. The MRP-F300 Per channel into 4 ohms: 50W x 4 (0.08% THD) Foot Print (WxHxD) in: 10-15/16'' x 2-23/64'' x 9-27/32'' Amplifier Type: Class-A/B Channel Design: 4/3/2 Channel -OR- The PDX-4.100 Per channel into 4 ohms: 100W x 4 Heat Sink (WxHxD) in: 10-1/8'' x 7-9/16'' x 2-7/16'' 4/3/2 Channel Power Density Digital Amplifier http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/category/amplifiers You'll find them NEW and much cheaper than the MSRP by over $100 less on Amazon.

Nope. No back up beepers here..... But I was thinking that I could wire every LED light into a "Speratic Circuit" for car shows.... Just turn it on and let it flash every light, one at a time, in no particular order. It would look awesome at night. This will be one of the brightest, cleanly lit 260Z's on the planet. Between the custom License plate lights, reverse light strip, brake lights, turn signals, side markers, front markers, HID headlights and Cold Cathode Tube lighting on the inside, This should be able to be seen from space??? Maybe? Maybe even go with an underbody kit??? Nah, not this time. Dave

That is confusing. Almost sounds like it's back feeding somehow. I'd try a Diode on that wire. Try is both ways, once with the band on the diode facing the coil and aagain with the band facing the green wire. Couldn't hurt to try. Just remember, it's a friday night and the guys are out till tomorrow morning. Maybe you'll get a better, more precise answer then. Dave