Zs-ondabrain

Just an update / BUMP. These are still for sale both thru me and Motorsport Auto. The HLH or Healight relay upgrade harness is still $125 The Parking light upgrade harness is still $50 The ZXP or 280ZX alternator upgrade plug for the 240Z is still $15 Dave wolfin32z@yahoo.com

Moving right along.... The wifes "To-Do" list killed a lot of productive hours but I got a few things done. As the pictures show, it all started with some card board and went from there. The license plate will be inward and the lights will barely be 1/4" out of the rear panel. Any opinions thus far???

Yup, you definately got a short in the left turn signal. Concentrate on the left turn lights. They are green/red in the front and rear, at the hazard switch and at the light in the tach. You should be able to trace it easily that way. It's ground out somewhere. By the way, The average price of a 240Z Starter is $40. Just go buy one. Even a Pull-A-Part starter out of a 280ZX (gear reduction) is about $10. Mine was $10 and that was over 3 years ago. Dave

So I got a little more FatMat done today but nothing worth posting about. BUT after 3 months of waiting for my metal guy to get around to cutting and shaping my rear panel for an easy instal, he calls me monday and tells me he's getting to it. Tuesday he calls and says "It's cut and ready for you to pick it up" then he says" You'll have to do a little cutting and grinding and it'll be good to go".............. Solm bich gave me a square peice of 18 gauge sheet metal with a 90* bend at the top, THAT'S IT!! So pissed off and falling behind, I figured screw it and start woprking on it. So I made some relief cuts and had to cut the $^!# out of a huge peice of metal. I'll post more when it starts looking like a rear panel. Still gotta cut the holes for the rear lenses, license plate and thinking about doing a straight line of SuperBrite White LED's across the bottom half under the licence plate area (about 12" to 18" long) You'll see. Dave

Classic lines with modern day upgrades and comforts. It's still a 70' but now it has Power windows, locks, alarm, 800 watt stereo with 6 speakers and 2 subs, updated suspension, tires and wheels, 5-speed tranny, Original Numbers Matching Block but no emissions, polished everything and big Ol' Aluminum Radiator. I could go on but I've never had one single person say anything bad about my updates and upgrades. They just tell me that "It's a Beautiful Classic Z Car" Good Question Arne. Dave

I've got a couple laying around as the 260Z now has shaved door handles and the rod is obsolete. You need small hands to get up there and attach the rod to the handle. Try backing the plastic nut upwards toward the middle of the rod, then slide it into the hole, attach the rod to the handle, then turn the plastic nut back down, testing the handle every few turns. Good luck, Dave

It's OK. We'll take anything we can get at this point. But with the supplied info, I can't see half of the people will be making their very long trip to the MSA for a 1 day event. There's no way I'd travel 2400 miles round trip for just 1 days worth. Hell, it takes 1.75 days to get there from Marysville, WA. Dave

Thanks for the update, although it has been covered..... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37321&page=3

Body work is moving along, slowly BUT..... I finally got my FatMat in from eBay (Noise-Killers on ebay A++) and started right on it. And a big thinks to Logan1 for the visual inspiration to do the every friggin panel I can reach. The FatMat is a great deal at $130 for 100 sq.ft. which is EASILY enough to cover the everything that Needs to be covered, including the headlinerless roof, firewall, inner rear quarters, wheel wells, shock towers, spare well and everything in between. Here it is so far.... hopefully more to come this week. Also, rear wheels are on and all 4 are on rollers, so I can totally spin the car around and keep the sun on the area that needs a little warmth (it was actually 55 degrees out today) not bad for mid Feb. here in the Great NW. Dave

I'm gonna have to go with "Blakt Out"s 240Z project. He's already into it for 6 bills and still going ($100,000+) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36322

I DO!! I Really Really Do love this stuff. It's basically all I do anymore. Talk Z's, work on Z's, think of and build Z upgrades, dream about Z's, write Poetry to my Z....... Just kiddin, but you get the idea. I can't imagine where I'd be in life right now, if it weren't for my 240Z. The People I've met and befriended, The income and business that the Z's have generated thru upgrades and conversions, The car shows, tours, trips and drives. The car clubs, outings and just general get-togethers. The 260Z is my 4th Z. The 70' was my first Z, not my first Datsun, the white 71' was a parts car that I stripped and sold parts for cheap to those in need, The 71' (Yellow) that I fixed up and sold for $1000 to a kid that destroyed his 1st and bought mine only to tear it apart, modify it and give up and gave the damn car away, peice by peice and never gave me a heads up to possibly get some items back from it. I really appreciate the Praise, the "thank you's" and the continued patronage of every one of my customers, who take the time, after the sale, t write me back and tell me what my products and advise had done for them and their Z's. I hate to sound like a wuss but every so often, I get choked up and teary-eyed, as it humbles me to know that I may have actually made a difference in someones life, when I help bring their beloved classic Z back to life or get it back on the road. I'm nobody special, just a guy who loves what he does and is very thankful for the people who are involved in every way, because of their cars. Thanks for the Awesome letter Tom, you made my night. Dave.

Shorts don't typically take out the Starter motor. You can put in a fusable link or an inline fuse (40 amp, I think) Sounds like the power connection you heard "crackle" is a short or real bad connection. You can physically test a connection by tugging or pulling on it. What I mean to say is that some fusable links and connections can actually fry inside the wire casing and still look good. Happens all the time. Reclamp connections, replace them if needed, be sure of the connection before moving on to the next issue.... Boy do you have issues....... 1) Disconnect the battery, Clean the terminals till they're shiny and looking new. Same with the battery clamps. 2) Disconnect the Ground wires on the firewall and above the frame ( across from the starter. Use a dremel or steel wire brush and clean the hell out both terminals, clean the contact area on the fender and the firewall (good clean metal) then rebolt the terminal tightly. Do the same for the battery's Ground wire on the starter or tranny bolt. 3) repeat the process for the Positive cable on the starter. NOW would be a good time to upgrade you Battery Cables to 4-gauge if you haven't already. Better power transfer and less resistance. Double check ALL connections at the combo switch, hazard switch, flasher unit, hazard flasher unit and every connection on the passenger side kick panel area. After you swap the fusebox, if you haven't already, make sure it's all tight and strongly connected to the harness. I can't think of any thing else off the top of my head at the moment. It's late and my brain hurts. Dave

We tried to cover this a few weeks? ago. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37417&highlight=260Z+parts

Sounds like one of those "Gotta be here to see what I'm talking about" issues. I can't visualize what w=could be stopping it from laying down. I would pull it off and inspect the door area for signs of fatigue or scraping. any signs that say "I'm stopping it from goind all the way down" Lay the old one next to the new one and do a simple comparison. If that's possible. Dave

I can tell you now that it's NOT the switch. It's obviously doing it's job. If it wasn't, you wouldn't see ANY lights in that Parking light circuit come on. As it's only 1 wire coming out of the switch. Same for the Headlights. So the issue is past the switch. Let us know what you end up with to give you good results. Check your messages. Dave

Yep, sounds like the Green/white wire is loose or needs to be replaced. You can run a test wire from the green/white wire (any of them in the rear, likely use the sidemarker wire on the P-side) to the front connector in the upper kick panel area. This will tell you if the short or bad connection is between those 2 areas. As for the bad bulb, I would remove the headlight in question, use a test lead on both ends of the headlight pigtail (between the headlight and front radiator area) and wiggle the hell out of it. That's what I would start with. Like anything on a Z, it's all a process of elimination, Dave

Little confused on that one. "No taillights either" means what. The PLH powers the Dash lights, Side markers, front markers (under the bumper) and the taillights. Are your taillights out but dash lights work? As for the headlights.... Have you changed the bulb out yet, for a known working bulb? If you have Hi beams on both, and low beam on one, the other is probably bad -OR- the red/black wire on that bad bulbs socket is loose or bad. Fill me in. I back up my products and am happy to help when I can. Dave

Took a few try's but I got ya. Good luck, Dave

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try here........... http://www.redlineweber.com/

So you're saying you have a life beyond CZCC and "Reproduction parts"??? I'm pretty sure we can all sympathize with you and your efforts. Parts are a side job, so do what you gotta do then take a damn break Will. It's not like you don't deserve it or anything....... Tell Larry we said "HI" and take care. Dave

Not sure on the 3:54 diff but I have the 3:90 diff with the 79' ZX 5-speed and it has great Low end and awesomefreeway speeds and Gas milage. At 80 MPH, the tach is only at 3000 RPM, in 5th gear. Which leaves PLENTY of room for speed and MPG. No real torque at that speed and gear but at that speed, there's always room for higher RPM's and down shifting. Dave

Kinda figured as much. But at least it's out there. Dave

I understand your comments, but on the other side of the coin..... I've seen CPS do more harm than good. Kids taken out of Homes that had NO problems, merely because the neighbor had an issue with the parents. So she calls CPS, makes some BS story and the innocent kids get thrown in a foster home for a month because of some idiot abusing the priveledge. Meanwhile, the real victims are ignored because CPS is paying attension to the Unneeded calls. It's all pretty stupid cause people can't use their brains. They look the other way and call for the wrong reasons. CPS is just doing their job but it's the citizens who give CPS a bad name. Anyways, "thank god we've got great friends who are willing to push it up a good sized hill. Totally worth it." Dave

Did we ever come up with a solution for the "Hatch Hinge Seals" that are NLA?? I'm prepping for the paint on the 260Z and just removed the hatch hinges to find the rubber cups are trashed and in serious need of replacing WILL!!! HELP ME - HELP ME