Zs-ondabrain

I'm not that old but even I remember the old Pepsodent slogan. it was for their "New Formula" back in 48"?? My grandpa used to hum it when he was in the bathroom, and I HAD to ask what the humming was about. So he sang it to me. Good times, good times. Dave

Words of Wisdom by a Man who's "Been There" Get that switch in yet Gary? Have a great week-end, Dave

Sorry for the delayed answer Jim.... I did the front with Jack-stands on the frame rails and the rear still had the old suspension and wheels on. There was no way I was gonna crawl under there with the whole car teetering on 4 stilts (jack stands) Then I put the front wheels on and put them onto small rollers becasue the rack and pinion was not done or installed and I had no way of keeping the wheels straight. So with the front done and on rollers, I tossed some sand under the small wheels of the rollrs to keep them from wondering around, then raised the back end and used the 4x4 and taller Jackstands to keep the rear suspended and make plenty of room to work under there. Made life much easier being able to sit cross-legged while scraping old undercoating off. One side at a time, that's all I need. Dave (*EDIT*) I just realized I already posted but rather than erase one, I'm just leaving this one here.)

It locks your suspension from moving backward under braking and gives you a more positive feel on the suspension. The suspension still moves properly. It's basically a cup and ball as aposed to the soft rubber that used to be there and move too much. I have the T/C kit on both of my Z's. Dave

It's a 2400+ mile round trip for me, the Wife and the Mistress. Gas is about $300 (7 tanks at $3 per gallon, 25 MPG average) Hotel on Katella Ave/Harbor St? is about $80 per night X 3 nights = $240 Motels along the way $45 per night X 2 = $90 Food for the 1 week away from home is about $300 For a total of about $930 +/- $100 Even if they charge $15 or $20 for the event, per person, I don't think I'd really miss the $20 compard to the $1000 minimun for everything else. I Just got off the phone with Jay at Motorsport Auto and he said " We hope to have a big anouncement in about 2 weeks" & "Everything is a GO and they just need to tie up a couple loose ends before they make anything official" There ya go, Dave

Well, I'm SOLD on the Fat Mat Xtreme. but I will give this word of warning for anyone who may deal with the following company... Dealer Cost Car Audio IS A SCAM!!!!!!!! DO NOT PURCHASE ANYTHING FROM THIS WEBSITE!!! I tried to buy 2 different kits of Dynamat Xtreme from this company and almost got screwed, thank god for VISA and Wells Fargo Bank!! I paid for the items on Dec. 26th 09'. After 3 weeks and 30+ emails of waiting and excuses, I cancelled my order and looked them up on the BBB site..... http://www.la.bbb.org/Business-Report/Dealer-Cost-Car-Audio-100072683 I went to my bank yesterday and THEY resolved the issue and gave me a full refund. The DCCA is VISA's problem, or should I say the other way around? So before you purchase from ANY unfamiliar company, check them out at http://www.BBB.com first!!. Great pics and instal Logan1. You've encouraged me to do the whole 260Z project in FatMat. I'm thinking of purchasing from "Noise-Killers" on eBay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/100-80-Mil-Rattle-Trap-FatMat-Deadener-Dynamat-Roller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a047ea72aQQitemZ180464035626QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Dave.

Hense the word "Cheap" Rock auto and others are great if you're not a college student. Does any one have a USED and in decent working shape, booster for Tyler?

So aparently, "I AM THE MAN" We did'nt test your booster that way (as described by Curtis) but that's easy enough to do. I have a brake line/ hose clamp (looks like a duck-billed locking plyer) that we could easily clamp on there and test it that way. So the next question Tyler will have is...... Who has a booster for cheap for a 76' 280Z??? Dave

I think your by-pass theory is kinda what I was trying to get at, when I mentioned "physically disconnecting each light" but yes, every little bit helps when diagnosing electrical in the Z's. Steve, Thanks for the shout outs, I'll take 'em where I can get 'em. It's never a bad idea to pull the fusebox and give it a De-Oxit bath. Or scrub it down with baking sod or what ever that is. The PLH will improve and already working system but will only improve the power output to a bad circuit at the same time. So make sure it's fixed before installing a PLH or HLH. Dave

On a more thorough aproach, I would physically unplug each side marker, one at a time. Just like you did with the fusebox (good move by the way) and test with each unplug. Then check the front markers as well. Then the taillights. If you did the whole underdash test as stated above, then hopefully, it's one of the untested lights in the same circuit. Also, People usually buy an aftermarket fusebox because of the headlight or parking light fuse melting the typical area's. My upgrades usually solve that issue, and with the $200 price tag, you could purchase both of my uprades, and from the same website. MSA. Dave

Where in Oregon are you? You are in a highly 240Z owner, populated area. Let them know where you are and maybe one of them could help you out. 4 eyes are better than 2. 1) the #1 spark plug. 2) turn the engine with your thumb over the piston as it rises up and you should feel air escaping, That's your compression stroke. 3) Use a wrench to slowly get the piston to the very top (I use a screwdriver in the hole to watch the piston, to make sure it's at it's highest point) 4) pull the cap and look at the rotor on the distributor. Mentally mark where it's pointing. 5) place the cap back on and make sure the #1 spark plug wire is centered over that position. 6) The firing order is 1. 5. 3. 6. 2. 4. in a counter-clockwise rotation. 7) Also check the timing notch on the crank pully, it should be about centered with 0* Then go from there, put the plug back in, plug wire on, coil wire on and secure. Or grab an extra spark plug and and check for spark off the #1 plug wire when you try to fire it up. let us know, Dave

The front wheels are on dollies, with the dolly wheels locked. There's no way I would work under the car if the only thing holding it up was 4 wobbly legs. So front wheels on dollies and rear end up with a 4"x4" across the floors, held up with 2 jack stands. Definately made doing the doglegs and suspension much easier. Dave

SOOOO.... I finally got to the other side, basically a mirror image of the left side but here ya go.. It was a little easier on the right side, as the left was all practice. So I copied every thing and it was a breeze. Now I gotta go get another GM mount cause I sold the other one to Nigel in the UK. Mount the R/T, mod the GM mount, raise and bolt in the diff and finsh the body work on the left side so I can spin the car around and start on the right side. Much to do. Dave

I have a 100 ft roll of 3/8" (close to 11mm) for sale. $0.60 per ft, 5 ft minimum ($3.00) plus $5 for Priority Mail Shipping. Buy as much as you want. Can be used to re-sleeve the taillight harness, wiper motor harness, VR wiring, or anything else that you want to protect or replace in the 11mm range. Or even buy 50 ft for $27 + $10 S/H (bigger box cost more to ship.) PM me if interested, Dave

Like I said, It's actually kinda cool. Regular turn signals under braking, but upper and lower when I'm not hitting the brakes. I could easily run a new brake light wire but I won't. YET. Dave

I wonder if they'll call me Again for another round of 240Z sound bites? Not sure if any of you know or remember, but my exhaust was used for sound bites on the Forza Motorsport II game. you can see a few vids of my Z on the Dyno at 6000RPM and 6500RPM http://www.cardomain.com/id/DatsunDave07

And because I'm an idiot, I forgot that when you diode isolate the brake lights on each side, on earlier Z's, I came to realize that ....... 1) when I apply the brakes, all 3 brake lights (L, R, and 3rd) light up beautifully. 2) When I apply the brakes and use the turn signals, The 3rd brake light and opposite side brake light stay solid, like a normal car. BUT...... 3) when I use the turn signal Without the brakes, The 3rd brake light flashes with that turn signal. Not a Bad thing, just not what I expected. Kinda cool at the same time, as now everyone can see that I'm making a turn. Dave

And for any one else...... Suck on the valve, if you can suck air, the end that's in your mouth, goes toward the engine. This stops any air from going toward the booster, in case of a backfire, to keep the diaphram of the booster from being damaged.

Am I that transparent? Yup, I am. Swap your original thermal unit for an Electronic flasher. They work on a circuit rather than resistance. You'll have a more consistant flash and less amperage thru your preflasher system. Your dash flasher (green light on the tach) is directly wired in with the front flashers. I would also check the front left turn signal when the hazards are on. If the dash light is not flashing, the front of the same side is also likely not flashing. Unless your hazard switch is bad but I don't see how that could work that way. BTW, The Electronic flashers are between $10 and $17 Dave

The only problem is that we did so much (FI connectors, fuse block upgrade, cleaning the AFM and TPS, Checking vaccum hose and other inspections) that we're not real sure where the real problem was. But as long as it works like it's supposed to, we're (HE's) Happy. Next step is to truly inspect and repair vaccum hoses, fix or replace connectors that have Duct tape on them, etc, ect. You can only do so much in a day when I can't shut up. I have a problem of describing everything I'm doing and why. But with any luck, he'll catch on and remember my mumbling and put it to practice someday. Ain't it fun? Dave

Interestingly enough, I was at the Pull-A-Part on Wed. getting that Ford V6 coil Pack and EDIS6 with the Mag pick-up for the 260Z project (it'll be used with the MegaJolt system from Autospotlabs.com in Lynnwood) Anyways, Some guy comes up to me and asks "Is that your 240Z out there?" I tell him yes and he says "I got a buddy who's trying to sell a practically new set of Mikuni's or Webers, I can't remember which, for $500"...... I tell him $500 is an awesome price and give him my Business card and tell him to tell his buddy to call me. No word yet but I'll let Oliver know if he ever calls..... Dave

These are for MEZZZ, am trying to explain the split loom for carrying the 3rd brake light wire to the defrost wire and into the overhead cover. And I also threw in some of my dome light pics. They are Cold Cathode Tubes for a Computer case. (12volts DC and only 1/2 an amp of power consumption, next to nothing) By the way, the garage was Completely Black, the only lights in the garage were the cold cathode tube lights, 4 in all, 2 under the dash and you can see the other 2 on the overhead cover and hatch. Dave

Yup, but I chose to ignore it, as there was 257 post's in the R/T mount group buy thread, and no where in any of those posts did it say that the mount came with the GM mount. I was selling the R/T mount and that's it. There was over 100 posts of where to buy the Bump stops and GM mounts, as they were not supplied with the R/T mount. Aint no person with decent vision that can hit my Z from the rear and say "But officer, I couldn't see his brake lights" When I'm stopping, YOU'LL KNOW IT! I got a whole wall like that, loaded withcleaned and finished parts, waiting for paint and the paint job to be done. I'll check the PM. Dave