Zs-ondabrain

Just got back from the shop and measured up the new Mount. Brought it home and did a quick instal and everything is great. The pictures below if of the prototype but the production unit will have the oblong holes like the original. Also, back plate will be inset 1/4" like the original. It cleared the brake likes easily but as stated before, the fuel line bracket might need to be moved a few inches forward. But this will also allow you to retain the clamp and not have to remove it, just slide it forward. All new names were added and a few were updated. Here ya go. Dave

Just an FYI, I ordered 50 to be made. So if you don't see 50 names on post #65, then they are still available. Peter, you're on the list. Thanks guys. Dave

Looks good but make sure you tuck those wires before you're done. Or is that an Obvious thing? If you want, repost this in the Review section or on the Combo turn signal service thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24304 Keep us updated. Dave

The fuel filler ring and the fuel doors lock clip, the hatch stopper and the doors lock clasp were all plated with the Tin-Zinc plating kit. Then polished with a soft cotton towel or a light metal polish. Sorry bout the other post, he just gets on my nerves. Eric ESTRADA sunglasses and dresses like Magnum P.I.... What-ever. Dave

No... Really Tom? After buying 3 sticks, you'd think I already knew that. DUH! Seriously? should I go back and write "Tin-Zinc Alloy" every where that I wrote Zinc? what are you trying to say? It's the same damn thing. Same kit you inquired about. Sorry to sound snippy, but I (we) already knew that it's a tin/zinc alloy. and when you order The kit, you should get EXTRA Tin-Zinc Alloy peices. Better? Going to bed, apparently my anti-grumpy pills are wearing off. Dave

IIRC, the long shaft goes on the Pass side and the shorter shaft goes on the Drivers side, as the ring gear is on the DS of the diff. So the longer would need to be on the PS of the diff. I have CV's in my 8/70 with my R200 diff. I just replaced the pass. side CV because of a ripped boot (from the end link bolt) And the shaft seemed long. The 83' turbo FSM should tell you the right answer. Anyone? Dave PS. If anyone buys a replacement from Schucks / O'Rileys, you'll need to grind the 1/4" lip off near the input shaft, as it hits the outer casing and doesn't allow full insertion until you do. ALSO, only the Passenger side (longer input shaft) is available. Apparently, the DS shaft is NLA. ?

As always, Thanks for the Rave Reviews. If you guys keep doing that, The fall from my pedastool will be a long one. Thanks guys. On to business..... If all the people that said they mailed an order last week truly did so, My mail carrier is gonna have quite the bundle for me tomorrow. I'll update with each peice of mail with an "Order and Payment Received" next to your name. I'll also keep updating names and status on post # 114 on page 12. bajcsi, SSuspect and =Enigma=, you're on. Thanks again guys, Dave

The shinier the pre-product, the better it'll come out. I bought the Eastwood kit last year. IIRC, it also comes with a tube of Autopor metal polish. Used in conjunction with the Plating kit worked well for me. But just like any plating, it can be polished off, so be carefull not to remove what you just put on. Keep fresh batteries on hand and order an extra stick of Zinc. Not sure how much you'll be plating but it will go fast and you won't want to wait for the extra stick to show up. I used mine on small brackets, nuts, bolts and washers. (small brackets included the spark plug wire retaining brackets on the valve cover and inlet housing.)

You're now on the list. About half so far are spoken for. I'm almost sure that the other half will fly once you guys get yours and comment on them. Thanks Adam, Dave

The front right blinker wire is a Green/Black wire. Find it over on the passenger side kick panel where the wires from the firewall come from the engine compartment. Disconnect this wire after testing it with a test light to make sure you got the correct wire. Turn the right blinker on or hit the brakes to find this wire. It should be in a 4 pin connector, or at least it is on earlier Z'sOnce you know you have it, disconnect it somehow. Then try the brakes and turn signal again. just for the hell of it. Now disconnect the plug, in front of the radiator, that goes to the front right blinker/marker light. Using an ohms meter, test the wire (Green/black) by connecting one lead to the G/B and the other to the metal. See if it's shorting. If you find no problem with the G/B wire between the plug on the passenger side kick and the light up front, then you've eliminated half the problem area. Now trace the wire on the dash side. Test it against the brake wire and the ground. There's an obvious short somewhere. You might even want to look at your hazard switch for a short. Try to wiggle it around and see if that helps. My hazard switch did something similar, but after I moved the toggle handle around, the problem stopped. These are all just suggestions, but I would try the hazard switch first. Look for melted wires, wiggle it, turn it on and off again, test for results. Dave

As Arne said, Yes. It will fit the tunnel of all S30's But will NOT fit the ZX (S130)

I'll use this post (#65) to post updated info on orders (requests, payments sent and payments received) I want 1.......... (1) - Order and Payment Received vercingetorix.... (1) - Order and Payment Received Motorman7...... (1) - Order and Payment Received Diseazd........... (1) - Order and Payment Received SteveE........... (1) - Order and Payment Received 260ZCaliCar......(1) - Order and Payment Received Duffman...........(1) - Order and Payment Received RT Hunter.........(1) - Order and Payment Received GreenZZZ.........(1) - Order and Payment Received Zup.................(2) - Order and Payment Received SSuspect.........(1) - Order and Payment Received MEZZZ.............(1) - Order and Payment Received pbarcher..........(1) - Order and Payment Received Marty Rogan.....(1) - Order and Payment Received Pop's Z............(1) - Order and Payment Received Oiluj................(1) - Order and Payment Received Gully Foyle........(1) - Order and Payment Received =Enigma= ........(1) - Order and Payment Received Zedyone_kenobi (1) - Order and Payment Received Z_Tyler_Z.........(1) - Order and Payment Received ZKars...............(1) - Order and Payment Received conedodger......(1) - Order and Payment Received bajcsi..............(1) - Order and Payment Received ol'red70...........(1) - Order and Payment Received ARNE...............(1) - MS Nigel1943.........(1) - MS ConchZ........... (1) - MS Phred..............(1) - MS 70 Cam Guy......(1) - MS Tarmac............(1) - MS nahurry............(1) - Not Yet JohnnyRock.......(1) - MS I know I say it almost every time, but Thanks guys. Dave

The battery cable gets bolted to the solenoid using the stud that DOES NOT have a copper wire going to the starter motor. The ring terminaled wire (white or white/Red) goes to that same stud. The starter wire (yellow/black with a vinyll sleeve) plugs into the small male terminal The ground cable from the battery is bolted to the starter bolt that bolts the starter to the transmission.

Well in that case, I apologize. By your description of it turning into a "Roar" at higher speeds, sounds exactly like my 510 did when I ran it low on gear oil. In which case, I burnt a bearing and it was absolutely Horrable at higher speeds. My best suggestion would be to jack it up from the diff, and physically turn the wheels, one side at a time and listen for the sound. Could be brake shoes, U-Joints, bearings in the diff or stub axles on the strut assemblies, etc, etc. If you can't turn if fast enough to get the sound pinpointed. maybe have a driver start the car and slowly let out the clutch while it's in the air, you can get a better idea of where it's coming from while outside the car. The driver can immediately hit the brakes if an issue arrives (jack slipage etc. Dave

I put these on mine, when I found mine had rotted away to oblivian. I just cleaned out the old grease and any possible dirt, etc. Slid the new urethanes on there, regrease thru the zirks and I'm good to go. Rubber breaks down when exposed to most lubes and the urethanes don't. They'll last longer too. Try here for info..... http://energysuspension.com/products/Tie-Rod-Ball-Joint-Boots.html Dave And here they are on my 260Z...

**EDITED*** for my Jumping the gun, These words really need facial expressions to know when attitude is or isn't apparent. I apologize, Dave

Sounds like bad bearing in the diff from lack of oil? Maybe? Dave

Aparently, you've forgotten about "Push to talk cell phones like Nextel and Sprint use. Those along with a newer GPS with weather and road conditions should work for ya. And on the plus side, you can also make calls, get directions, check conditons of roads and weather, etc, etc. With a short burst antenna (window mount, you can get some decent coverage area and not have a bulky fender or bumper mount antenna. M2CW Dave

It is possible, but you'll have to...... Mount the R/T mount to the Z without the GM mount attached. Loosely mount the GM poly mount to the top of the diff and the Stock mount to the bottom. Mount the Poly to the R/T mount and tighten it all up, including the 2 large bolts so everything is tight. Then mount the crossmember to the stock mount with the nut and washer. Then you'll have to use a floorjack to compress the crossmember up to the car to bolt it in place with the 4 bolts. This will literally compress both mounts and ain't Nothing Moving after that.

I totally hear ya. I'm just trying to suggest people use unbroken parts. The bump stop will stop the diff from moving up, when used on the R/T mount and the broken or even new one, will keep the diff from smacking the crossmember.

As long as the stock mount is still in working order, you can use it and the bump stop. Even if the stock mount fails, the bump stop will "Stop" the diff from raising. Thanks for your payment. Anyone else? Dave

It's all pretty straight forward. But make sure you use the 3M weatherspripping glue and wipe down anything to be glued, with a good cleaner (acetone, alcohol, brake cleaner, etc.) even roughing the surface before gluing is best. Glue both sides (body and rubber( let air dry for no less than 30 seconds, then attach, kinda like contact cement. Dave

Add one more to the list........ Gully Foyle for 1. Anyone else? Dave

Carpeting areas that are normally vinyled wouldn't be Period Correct. The good thing about removable carpet is the ability to replace it. Glued in carper will retain the bad smells, stains and fading. Vinyl is easily cleaned and wiped down. To each his own, but replacible items are always the smart call. Check with Motorsport auto ( http://www.zcarparts.com/ ) for different styles of carpet. As well as http://www.zcarsource.com/

Money sent = MS................ Haven't heard from yet = Not Yet I want 1.......... (1) - MS ConchZ........... (1) - Not Yet vercingetorix.... (1) - MS Motorman7...... (1) - MS Diseazd........... (1) - MS SteveE............ (1) - MS Zedyone_kenobi (1) - Not confirmed yet Z_Tyler_Z.........(1) - MS 260ZCaliCar......(1) - MS MEZZZ.............(1) - MS ARNE...............(1) - MS Duffman...........(1) - MS RT Hunter.........(1) - MS Nigel1943.........(1) - MS Marty Rogan.....(1) - not Yet nahurry............(1) - Not Yet Pop's Z............(1) - Not Yet zKars...............(1) - MS GreenZZZ.........(1) - MS Oiluj................(1) - Not yet conedodger......(1) - MS Zup.................(2) - MS Gully Foyle........(1) - Not yet Moving right alone at a steady pace. If you have sent money and it's in the mail, PM me so I know and can mark you off the list. first come first serve. you know the drill. A BIG thanks to all who have confirmed there order and a Small Reminder to those I haven't heard from yet. Dave