Zs-ondabrain

The shinier the pre-product, the better it'll come out. I bought the Eastwood kit last year. IIRC, it also comes with a tube of Autopor metal polish. Used in conjunction with the Plating kit worked well for me. But just like any plating, it can be polished off, so be carefull not to remove what you just put on. Keep fresh batteries on hand and order an extra stick of Zinc. Not sure how much you'll be plating but it will go fast and you won't want to wait for the extra stick to show up. I used mine on small brackets, nuts, bolts and washers. (small brackets included the spark plug wire retaining brackets on the valve cover and inlet housing.)

You're now on the list. About half so far are spoken for. I'm almost sure that the other half will fly once you guys get yours and comment on them. Thanks Adam, Dave

The front right blinker wire is a Green/Black wire. Find it over on the passenger side kick panel where the wires from the firewall come from the engine compartment. Disconnect this wire after testing it with a test light to make sure you got the correct wire. Turn the right blinker on or hit the brakes to find this wire. It should be in a 4 pin connector, or at least it is on earlier Z'sOnce you know you have it, disconnect it somehow. Then try the brakes and turn signal again. just for the hell of it. Now disconnect the plug, in front of the radiator, that goes to the front right blinker/marker light. Using an ohms meter, test the wire (Green/black) by connecting one lead to the G/B and the other to the metal. See if it's shorting. If you find no problem with the G/B wire between the plug on the passenger side kick and the light up front, then you've eliminated half the problem area. Now trace the wire on the dash side. Test it against the brake wire and the ground. There's an obvious short somewhere. You might even want to look at your hazard switch for a short. Try to wiggle it around and see if that helps. My hazard switch did something similar, but after I moved the toggle handle around, the problem stopped. These are all just suggestions, but I would try the hazard switch first. Look for melted wires, wiggle it, turn it on and off again, test for results. Dave

As Arne said, Yes. It will fit the tunnel of all S30's But will NOT fit the ZX (S130)

I'll use this post (#65) to post updated info on orders (requests, payments sent and payments received) I want 1.......... (1) - Order and Payment Received vercingetorix.... (1) - Order and Payment Received Motorman7...... (1) - Order and Payment Received Diseazd........... (1) - Order and Payment Received SteveE........... (1) - Order and Payment Received 260ZCaliCar......(1) - Order and Payment Received Duffman...........(1) - Order and Payment Received RT Hunter.........(1) - Order and Payment Received GreenZZZ.........(1) - Order and Payment Received Zup.................(2) - Order and Payment Received SSuspect.........(1) - Order and Payment Received MEZZZ.............(1) - Order and Payment Received pbarcher..........(1) - Order and Payment Received Marty Rogan.....(1) - Order and Payment Received Pop's Z............(1) - Order and Payment Received Oiluj................(1) - Order and Payment Received Gully Foyle........(1) - Order and Payment Received =Enigma= ........(1) - Order and Payment Received Zedyone_kenobi (1) - Order and Payment Received Z_Tyler_Z.........(1) - Order and Payment Received ZKars...............(1) - Order and Payment Received conedodger......(1) - Order and Payment Received bajcsi..............(1) - Order and Payment Received ol'red70...........(1) - Order and Payment Received ARNE...............(1) - MS Nigel1943.........(1) - MS ConchZ........... (1) - MS Phred..............(1) - MS 70 Cam Guy......(1) - MS Tarmac............(1) - MS nahurry............(1) - Not Yet JohnnyRock.......(1) - MS I know I say it almost every time, but Thanks guys. Dave

The battery cable gets bolted to the solenoid using the stud that DOES NOT have a copper wire going to the starter motor. The ring terminaled wire (white or white/Red) goes to that same stud. The starter wire (yellow/black with a vinyll sleeve) plugs into the small male terminal The ground cable from the battery is bolted to the starter bolt that bolts the starter to the transmission.

Well in that case, I apologize. By your description of it turning into a "Roar" at higher speeds, sounds exactly like my 510 did when I ran it low on gear oil. In which case, I burnt a bearing and it was absolutely Horrable at higher speeds. My best suggestion would be to jack it up from the diff, and physically turn the wheels, one side at a time and listen for the sound. Could be brake shoes, U-Joints, bearings in the diff or stub axles on the strut assemblies, etc, etc. If you can't turn if fast enough to get the sound pinpointed. maybe have a driver start the car and slowly let out the clutch while it's in the air, you can get a better idea of where it's coming from while outside the car. The driver can immediately hit the brakes if an issue arrives (jack slipage etc. Dave

I put these on mine, when I found mine had rotted away to oblivian. I just cleaned out the old grease and any possible dirt, etc. Slid the new urethanes on there, regrease thru the zirks and I'm good to go. Rubber breaks down when exposed to most lubes and the urethanes don't. They'll last longer too. Try here for info..... http://energysuspension.com/products/Tie-Rod-Ball-Joint-Boots.html Dave And here they are on my 260Z...

**EDITED*** for my Jumping the gun, These words really need facial expressions to know when attitude is or isn't apparent. I apologize, Dave

Sounds like bad bearing in the diff from lack of oil? Maybe? Dave

Aparently, you've forgotten about "Push to talk cell phones like Nextel and Sprint use. Those along with a newer GPS with weather and road conditions should work for ya. And on the plus side, you can also make calls, get directions, check conditons of roads and weather, etc, etc. With a short burst antenna (window mount, you can get some decent coverage area and not have a bulky fender or bumper mount antenna. M2CW Dave

It is possible, but you'll have to...... Mount the R/T mount to the Z without the GM mount attached. Loosely mount the GM poly mount to the top of the diff and the Stock mount to the bottom. Mount the Poly to the R/T mount and tighten it all up, including the 2 large bolts so everything is tight. Then mount the crossmember to the stock mount with the nut and washer. Then you'll have to use a floorjack to compress the crossmember up to the car to bolt it in place with the 4 bolts. This will literally compress both mounts and ain't Nothing Moving after that.

I totally hear ya. I'm just trying to suggest people use unbroken parts. The bump stop will stop the diff from moving up, when used on the R/T mount and the broken or even new one, will keep the diff from smacking the crossmember.

As long as the stock mount is still in working order, you can use it and the bump stop. Even if the stock mount fails, the bump stop will "Stop" the diff from raising. Thanks for your payment. Anyone else? Dave

It's all pretty straight forward. But make sure you use the 3M weatherspripping glue and wipe down anything to be glued, with a good cleaner (acetone, alcohol, brake cleaner, etc.) even roughing the surface before gluing is best. Glue both sides (body and rubber( let air dry for no less than 30 seconds, then attach, kinda like contact cement. Dave

Add one more to the list........ Gully Foyle for 1. Anyone else? Dave

Carpeting areas that are normally vinyled wouldn't be Period Correct. The good thing about removable carpet is the ability to replace it. Glued in carper will retain the bad smells, stains and fading. Vinyl is easily cleaned and wiped down. To each his own, but replacible items are always the smart call. Check with Motorsport auto ( http://www.zcarparts.com/ ) for different styles of carpet. As well as http://www.zcarsource.com/

Money sent = MS................ Haven't heard from yet = Not Yet I want 1.......... (1) - MS ConchZ........... (1) - Not Yet vercingetorix.... (1) - MS Motorman7...... (1) - MS Diseazd........... (1) - MS SteveE............ (1) - MS Zedyone_kenobi (1) - Not confirmed yet Z_Tyler_Z.........(1) - MS 260ZCaliCar......(1) - MS MEZZZ.............(1) - MS ARNE...............(1) - MS Duffman...........(1) - MS RT Hunter.........(1) - MS Nigel1943.........(1) - MS Marty Rogan.....(1) - not Yet nahurry............(1) - Not Yet Pop's Z............(1) - Not Yet zKars...............(1) - MS GreenZZZ.........(1) - MS Oiluj................(1) - Not yet conedodger......(1) - MS Zup.................(2) - MS Gully Foyle........(1) - Not yet Moving right alone at a steady pace. If you have sent money and it's in the mail, PM me so I know and can mark you off the list. first come first serve. you know the drill. A BIG thanks to all who have confirmed there order and a Small Reminder to those I haven't heard from yet. Dave

That is one of my displeasures of visting Oregon. So I stand there and watch them, tell them about the chain, and warn them NOT TO CHIP MY PAINT with their damn nozzle. Each time I've had an attendant "Fill her up" they always smack the metal above the lid (the fuel door lip) And they did it twice on the way thru OR after my fresh paint job. Bastards. So I watch them with an Evil Eye. Dave

So while I'm doing the rebuild on my 260Z (2/74) I'm also doing the Honda wiper motor upgrade. The mid to later 73' 240Z's and the early 260Z's, as far as I have knowledge of, have intermittent wipers and they both have an intermittent box (relay, delay and amp) up in the passenger side kick panel. Anyways, when most people try and do the wiper motor upgrade into S30's w/ intermittent wipers, they have issues (ie; stuttering, won't work, humming, etc) So after tracking and tracing wires for 2 hours today, I discovered that the intermittent box is attached to the wipers but not an integral part of the system. So just upplug it!! After you unplug it, you should have no further issues. Then wire it up like normal (per the diagrams with the relay and you're good to go. But you won't have a delay circuit any more, unless you buy a delay circuit to instal with your Honda wiper motor upgrade. Dave By the way, the intermittent relay had 1) 4-pin connector with 4 wires and 1) 6-pin connector with 3 wires in it. That should help, when you're looking up in the relay section in the P.S. kick panel

I'll try and get a digital rendering of the new design with the brake line notch, on this thread tomorrow. So please let me know if you're sending your payment, I need to be able to tell the accountant when these things can start being paid for. I'm just the middle guy, you guys are the the only way this will work for everyone, so help me help you by letting me know what's coming in the mailbox. Thanks again guys, Dave

What exactly are you missing / or is in bad shape. I may have extras. I took the best of what I had, washed it in almost hot water with soap and a small stainless steel wire brush (very gentle but cleans well) This leaves them still looking dirty so I sprayed some break cleaner on a rag and gave them a once over and they look almost new. The brackets got media blasted then sprayed with some Metal Etching primer, then coated with some hi temp Gloss black. They came out pretty nice and look almost new. Dave

Yes. I'm going to block off the stock valve on the firewall, allowing the fronts to still go thru it and the new Proportioning valve will be mounted just above it, on the firewall. I may have to place it on top (in front) of the stock valve. To hopefully keep the stock lines as unbent as possible. Dave

I want 1.......... (1) ConchZ........... (1) vercingetorix.... (1) Motorman7...... (1) Diseazd........... (3) SteveE............ (1) Zedyone_kenobi (1) Z_Tyler_Z.........(1) 260ZCaliCar......(1) MEZZZ.............(1) ARNE...............(1) Duffman...........(1) RT Hunter.........(1) Nigel1943.........(1) Marty Rogan.....(1) nahurry............(1) Pop's Z............(1) zKars...............(1) GreenZZZ.........(1) Oiluj................(1) conedodger......(1) Zup.................(2) There's the 25 we need. I just got back from the metal shop and aproved the new design. The new 3/4" X 3/4" Notch in the upper right hand corner will completely clear the fuel lines. We've also added 1/2" to the vertical plate to keep the reinforcement of the Mount, after the notch has been made. Should be able to start shipping by next wednesday. Dave.

Short and simple. I actually LICKED my finger, before sticking it into a light bulb socket, to prove it had no power to the socket. I was wrong. There's way more but we'll leave alone for now. Dave