Zs-ondabrain

That is one of my displeasures of visting Oregon. So I stand there and watch them, tell them about the chain, and warn them NOT TO CHIP MY PAINT with their damn nozzle. Each time I've had an attendant "Fill her up" they always smack the metal above the lid (the fuel door lip) And they did it twice on the way thru OR after my fresh paint job. Bastards. So I watch them with an Evil Eye. Dave

So while I'm doing the rebuild on my 260Z (2/74) I'm also doing the Honda wiper motor upgrade. The mid to later 73' 240Z's and the early 260Z's, as far as I have knowledge of, have intermittent wipers and they both have an intermittent box (relay, delay and amp) up in the passenger side kick panel. Anyways, when most people try and do the wiper motor upgrade into S30's w/ intermittent wipers, they have issues (ie; stuttering, won't work, humming, etc) So after tracking and tracing wires for 2 hours today, I discovered that the intermittent box is attached to the wipers but not an integral part of the system. So just upplug it!! After you unplug it, you should have no further issues. Then wire it up like normal (per the diagrams with the relay and you're good to go. But you won't have a delay circuit any more, unless you buy a delay circuit to instal with your Honda wiper motor upgrade. Dave By the way, the intermittent relay had 1) 4-pin connector with 4 wires and 1) 6-pin connector with 3 wires in it. That should help, when you're looking up in the relay section in the P.S. kick panel

I'll try and get a digital rendering of the new design with the brake line notch, on this thread tomorrow. So please let me know if you're sending your payment, I need to be able to tell the accountant when these things can start being paid for. I'm just the middle guy, you guys are the the only way this will work for everyone, so help me help you by letting me know what's coming in the mailbox. Thanks again guys, Dave

What exactly are you missing / or is in bad shape. I may have extras. I took the best of what I had, washed it in almost hot water with soap and a small stainless steel wire brush (very gentle but cleans well) This leaves them still looking dirty so I sprayed some break cleaner on a rag and gave them a once over and they look almost new. The brackets got media blasted then sprayed with some Metal Etching primer, then coated with some hi temp Gloss black. They came out pretty nice and look almost new. Dave

Yes. I'm going to block off the stock valve on the firewall, allowing the fronts to still go thru it and the new Proportioning valve will be mounted just above it, on the firewall. I may have to place it on top (in front) of the stock valve. To hopefully keep the stock lines as unbent as possible. Dave

I want 1.......... (1) ConchZ........... (1) vercingetorix.... (1) Motorman7...... (1) Diseazd........... (3) SteveE............ (1) Zedyone_kenobi (1) Z_Tyler_Z.........(1) 260ZCaliCar......(1) MEZZZ.............(1) ARNE...............(1) Duffman...........(1) RT Hunter.........(1) Nigel1943.........(1) Marty Rogan.....(1) nahurry............(1) Pop's Z............(1) zKars...............(1) GreenZZZ.........(1) Oiluj................(1) conedodger......(1) Zup.................(2) There's the 25 we need. I just got back from the metal shop and aproved the new design. The new 3/4" X 3/4" Notch in the upper right hand corner will completely clear the fuel lines. We've also added 1/2" to the vertical plate to keep the reinforcement of the Mount, after the notch has been made. Should be able to start shipping by next wednesday. Dave.

Short and simple. I actually LICKED my finger, before sticking it into a light bulb socket, to prove it had no power to the socket. I was wrong. There's way more but we'll leave alone for now. Dave

Awesome, Thanks Darrel. Here's a picture of the 99101 in red. Part Number: 99101 •All purpose bump stop for control arms, traction bars & leaf springs. •Designed to be easily trimmed. •2 1/8" tall, 2" dia. •Includes 2 per set

It's my Pleasure Mr Houghton. PM Darrel about the Bump stop specifics. Maybe we can get him to do a thread on using the bump stop with the R/T mount. Might bump sales and get the needed info out there for people looking for options. Dave

So I finally got my 79' 280ZX rear disk Brake Rotors from O'Rileys. Got them home and did the test fit before painting them with the Red Caliper Paint from Dupli-color. I also found out that when I welded the Ebrake brakets in the place that I did, They actually sit back far enough that I don't have to mess with or alter my Ebrake handle, brackets, pivots or rods. as a matter of fact, I think they will lock up withing 2 or 3 clicks of the handle. My 240Z never did that, no matter how much I adjusted them. I'm really liking these things and I haven't even driven the car yet. Also got the Stainless Steel Braided (Earls) Brake Lines from MSA and popped right in. BUT, they have a 17mm bolt that doesn't lock into the 19mm hole of the stock bracket. No big deal, just held it with a wrench and tightened them down. I also relocated the Hard-line bracket to the Frame, to completely avoid the Caliper bracket hitting it. 1st pic. Proportioning valve up front (on the firewall) is next. Dave

Thanks for getting the ordering started, I really appreciate it. MEZZZ, Sorry, you missed out, Conedodger beat ya. hahaha. Everyone else, Please follow the payment info on the first post. I don't have a paypal account and using my local check cashing place will cost me about $5 to cash your bank check (casheirs checks, personal checks) So please try and keep it to Cash, USPS Postal Money Orders and WalMart Money Orders. Thanks again guys, this is all for and because of you. I can't do it without you. Dave

Everyone who is still interested, Please Read the First Page (POST #1) It has all the info on ordering the R/T Mount

zKars, RoostMonkey wrote this "-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No, I dont have a patent. Actually I used Ron Tyler's basic design ( hence the name " RT mount" ) with his permission and added my own little details to make what I feel is a slightly cleaner product. Theres nothing to stop someone from doing the same. If your thinking of making these, do us all a favor and make them better ( if possible ).Dont just copy this design. I only do this to help you guys out and to put a little cash in the Z fund. " Which basically says "Have at it" but at the same time "Make it better" I'm trying to keep it at the same price so as to not stray away from or show any real compitition, just expanding the availability. I called my Metal guy and he's making one up in Aluminum (easier, bendable, etc) so I can bring it home, do a test fit and mesurement and report back to him. If it checks out, I'll have him start producing them. I want to keep it Simple in it's design. It's been suggested to make it 1/2" shorter, but in doing that, it will also drop the diff another 1/2" and we don't want that. I was also thinking of weight reducing holes on the sides but I don't wanna mess with the integrity or strength of the mount. I'll know more when he delivers the prototype/mock up. As for a money making venture, not here. To be honest, I'll pay about $35 each, plus $10 for shipping each one in the US. Price of boxes, fuel to pick up, deliver, and return home. I might make $5 each, so it's not in my best interest to do this, but more of a back-up for when RoostMonkey is too busy. So it's basically all out of the love of the car and it's people, that I do this. On top of everything else I'm trying to do. So by my count, I want 1.......... (1) ConchZ........... (1) vercingetorix.... (1) Motorman7...... (1) Diseazd........... (3) SteveE............ (1) Zedyone_kenobi (1) Z_Tyler_Z.........(1) 260ZCaliCar......(1) MEZZZ.............(1) ARNE...............(1) Duffman...........(1) RT Hunter.........(1) Nigel1943.........(1) Marty Rogan.....(1) nahurry............(1) Pop's Z............(1) zKars...............(1) GreenZZZ.........(1) That's 21. I'll shoot a message to the metal guy and tell him we're on for the first 30 and tell him to kick A$$ on them. He said he's low on man power around the shop but he'll try and make it a priority. I think I can get this on a Net 30 which will allow me to start selling before all the money is in. We'll see. Thanks for the Retitle and swap over Arne. I appreciate it. Dave

Totally fair, and it's out of my fricken garage. bout time I found a sucker. hehehe snicker snicker. Still giggling about the dimmer.... Dave

That's exactly what the Headlight and parking light upgrades address. They introduce the needed relays that Nissan forgot to instal. Brighter everything and less damage to the switches and fusebox fuses. And that saved power will make the turn signals brighter and better responsive. Dave

Now that's funny. Did ya know you can also reset your odometer? just curious. and messing with ya. Good to hear things are getting better. Also, I'm gonna throw your box in the mail tomorrow, even thow your payment hasn't shown up yet. I put that relay in there but I won't promise you can use it on your 240Z. but hey, it's free, so do what ya want. Dave

Hey Stranger, long time no see. I'm sure shipping a hunk of metal to the other side of the pond is possible. How those upgrades working for ya? Keep your eye on this thread, I'll post when and if they become available for human consumption. haha. Dave

Easy enough. You'll be getting the metal ZS30 diff mount. You'll need to buy the Poly GM trans mount from www.jegs.com (P/N 3-1108 ) And also Paint the Mount yourself, to keep it from rusting as it is 3/16" mild steel. The ZS30 Mount can be mounted without removing the tranny or diff. 1) Remove the 4 bolts that hold the Diff Strap to the body of the Z 2) Remove the nut & washers that hold the OEM diff mount to the crossmember. 3) support the diff with a floor jack then remove the 4 bolts that hold the crossmember up. 4) The mustache bar and axles will easily support the diff in the hanging position after you lower the front of the diff. So lower the diff and use 2) 17mm ? wrenches and remove the 2 bolts that hold the OEM diff mount to the diff. 5) Being as how the new diff mount is in the shape of a square "U", you can slip it over the driveline or diff and slide it up into place. You may need to push the fuel lines up a little to clear the new mount. You may also have a rubber clamp on those brake and fuel lines that may need to be removed or moved forward to clear the new Mount. Slide it up and bolt it into place, making sure that the cross plate is facing the rear of the car and the poly mount hole is facing forward. **PICS** 6) When you go to instal the GM Poly Urethane Transmission Mount (P/N 3-1108 in Red or Black) You'll find that the mounting holes need to be widened enough to fit the larger bolts of the diff. And when you do this, keep thes as close to the poly as you can. The holes in the diff are closer together than the holes of the poly mount, so when you drill them larger, push your drill bit towards the poly to narrow the distance between the bolt holes. 7) Place the poly mount on top of the diff, slide the long bolts up thru the diff, place one washer on each bolt as a spacer to raise the poly mount off the diff a bit. Then slide the poly mount onto the bolts, then 1 more washer per bolt and put the nuts on loosely. 8) Place 1 of the 2 supplied poly mount bolts (with a washer and lock washer) thru the hole at the top of the ZS30 Mount, with the head of the bolt facing the top of the tunnel. 9) Raise the diff slowly, while aligning that top bolt with the center hole of the poly mounts 3 top holes. Raise it till you can thread the bolt in. Then continue to tighten the top bolt while raising the diff into place. You can also alternate and continue to tighten the 2 large bolts and nuts of the diff. When that's all done, go back and double check that all nuts and bolts are tightened. You're done. It's almost simpler than it sounds. Toss the strap, bolt up the new mount, drill the poly mount, mount it to the diff, raise the diff and bolt it all back up. Hope that's visual enough for most of you. It's pretty fresh in the memory so there ya go. Dave

The motor, trans, nice dash and seats are already over the $2000 price tag. So I say "Yes, good deal" if I had room and an extra $2000, you'd have to race to get to it before me, hehehe (as I twist my evil mustache to a sharp point) Dave

It's a great idea, kinda snug but definately would look stock to the untrained eye. Actually, you'll hear of a lot of guys doing it that way. Dave

Looks good so far. Are you gonna shoot another coat of Clear on there or does it just need to be buffed out? Been wondering what the Blue and white themed motor was gonna go it, for a while now. I also painted my own, first time ever, in my small garage. Very satisfying but now I know every drip, run and bad spot on the car. i'm my own worst enemy. Dave

Sounds good but How Much. What does he want for such a possibly clean car?

Ya, I lot of them are the same one that have already posted here, wanting one. That's one of the reasons I figured I'd see what the demand was here at ZCZZ. Truthfully, I'd like to see how far we get here before spreading too much word over there. If the orders pile up here, there should be a few straglers over there to take up the slack.

The Mount is typically used more by guys with the R200, LSD or quaife LSD. So I know it works well for them. I also know that I have a stock R180 in my 260Z and the mount works great there as well. I just read 15 or more pages at HybridZ and it looks like NO ONE has had issues with all the different diff combinations.. R180's R200's SX and Infinity diffs. I've also found that the flexibility (front and back movement) of the Mustache bar, allows for the fine adjustment of different types of diffs and mounts. Roostmonkey has it in his 70 ZXT and I've also read of it in all other years of S30's. Minor mods may be needed (like me having to remove the exhaust hanger bracket and moving the fuel lines up) but as said, they are minor mods and nothing seems to be permant or unreversable. I know from doing mine that I could easily remove it and bolt the strap back in, if need be. My suggestion, when installing the mount, is to loosely instal the poly mount to the diff (just turn the nuts on) and then the top bolt that goes thru the rt mount can be screwed to the mount at a slight angle because of the width of the hole in the top of the RT. Basically, loosely mount everything and it'll bolt right up, then tighten it all down from there. I did it and it worked well for me. and on the plus side, If someone orders it from me, and they find it won't work with their particular application, 1) it will still ne a "New" product and easily resold to the next guy or 2) return it to me for a full refund and I'll just resell it to the next person who want one. Pretty easy solution. OR 3) sell it to someone else and help them instal it for a small fee, see there, now ya made money and a new friend... Dave. So by my count, I want........... (1) ConchZ.......... (1) vercingetorix... (1) Motorman7..... (1) Diseazd.......... (3) SteveE.......... (1) Zedyone_kenobi (1) Z_Tyler_Z.......(1) 260ZCaliCar.....(1) MEZZZ...........(1) ARNE.............(1) Duffman.........(1) ??? Maybe RT Hunter.......(1) That's 15 as of 8pm on Monday. I'll keep updating and call the metal guy tomorrow (tuesday) and try and get an aproximate finish time on the first 30? or so. This is weird yet exciting all at the same time. Dave

OK, I'll call my metal guy tomorrow and see what the time frame would look like. Damn, all I was looking for was interest. Now I might have to actually go thru with it. why do I do this to myself? why :stupid: why :stupid: why? :stupid: ya'll know I love you guys Dave