Zs-ondabrain

I think I ordered 100 sq. ft and have only used about 2/3's of it. Still gotta do the inside doors and the inner rear quarters. the kit came with.... 100 Sq Ft Fatmat Sound Deadener Hard Wood Roller Cutting Knife Fatmat Decal Installation Instructions kit includes the following 2 Roll of 33.5' L X 18" W here's a link...... Great price, FREE!! Shipping too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Sq-Ft-Sound-deadener-Fatmat-Dynamat-Roller-/280631232680?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&vxp=mtr&hash=item4156ecc8a8 The ink stamps wipe off with acetone on a rag, easily. so if you want silver only, with no labeling, just wipe it off. Dave

Covered ever square inch from firewall to tail light panel. Project is in LIMBO at the moment but will finish the inner rear quarters and other things later on.

They were a serious Challenge. Between the primer and overspray, the lenses had serious pitting and scratches. I wet sanded the hell out of them but coud only do so much for the reflectors, as they sit down in a hole. I used my glass bead blaster to lift most of the paint off the back assemblies. I was going to but forgot to run a thread chaser thru your nuts. (That just sounds wrong) but you may wanna do that before re-installing. If anyone else would like this done. give me a few weeks heads up as I am low on LED's. Glad you're happy with them Henry. They were definately a challenge. Dave

You're quite welcome Lee. Looks beautiful. then again, I knew it would. Dave

Check near the Battery for that same black wire. Tylers 76' has a black wire coming from the drivers side, across the firewall and to the battery's Negative post. When it came unconnected by accident, the car didn't start for 3 days till he found the unplugged wire. I think it's the ground wire for the ECU. By the way, a couple pictures go a LOONG way around here. Show us what ya got and we'll see what we can do to help. By the way, SAVE this link in your Favorites. It should have the info you need on those wires..... http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Dave

That's Oliver for ya. I don't understand his "Local Buyers Only" deal but like ya said, his cars, his rules. He also beleives his cars come with Gold Filling so you won't get what ya pay for. Dave

yup. That's his shop on the left of the picture and the add is from clearview. Z-Specialties is on HWY 9 in Clearview.

Forgot to tell you to check the bushings on the shifter. Dave

There are some things that some may call Molesting, but if you consider what is completely reversable, the definition may change a little. The only REAL Molestation of a Zcar would be "Irreversable mods" such as holes (ie: Sunroofs, fender vents, etc), welding or drilling holes to bolt on parts. Almost everything else is reversable. Tires can be swapped, 4 lugnuts at a time. Paint, at this point is 41 years or newer and will show signs of fade, wear and damage. So a Tasteful repaint is not only called for but occasionally a Necessity. Proper paint protects the body. Creature comforts of the individual owner is for the owner. Be it seats, stereo, speaker boxes or Shag fricken carpet. Once again, this is not Molesting, if it can easily be replaced. And as for Offending someone with the word Molest, non-molested or abomination, these words are commonly used words in the classic car world. Anyone who has read a classic car Ad will read this on occasion from someone describing their car for sale as Un-Molested. If you take offence to the words, then you are not in your right mind, especially if you confuse a car with a person who has in fact been molested. Seriously E? So if anyone here is offended at the words or phrase, please kindly tell every one selling their classic car to not use the terms mentioned above. What-ever. The great thing about most upgrades, mine included, is that they can be removed as easily as they were installed. Engine parts are replacable, distributors, headers, alternators etc. It can all go back to stock. So find the car that suits your needs, with minimal holes and mods and go from there. Good luck, Dave

I used to run NGK BP6ES plugs with no dieseling. Then I started running BPR5ES plugs which are Resistive plugs to eliminate the popping noise in my new stereo I bought. Since I installed the 5ES plugs, It's diesels after some spirited driving. So I'm guessing the BPR5ES is a hotter plug? It's the only thing I've changed before the dieseling started. Also, with the new cam in, I'm idling around 750 to 800 Dave

After removing the speed nut from the back of the taillight assembly, Run the taillight under hot water to soften the glue that holds the lens to the back plate. Then you can get to the 2 inner speed nuts holding the trim plate to the lenses. when I reassemble them, I use a micro torch on the glue. Keep the torch moving at a decent pace and close to the glue so only the glue is heated. Work in a circular motion, once it's heated up and more liquid than solid, Run the torch over the matching lens edge to sort of pre-heat it. then reassemble quickly. Squeezing all over for a few minutes to set the seal as best as possible. I do the LED conversions all the time so I'm quite experienced at the R&R procedure. Dave

It means I sell the complete kit with a Maxima/Altima Push button. Should someone decide they want the GT-R button with their kit, the can buy one from Motorsport Auto for about $36 plus shipping. I pay that and shipping and have to take the bezel from a maxima/Altima button to make a complete kit. This way, you have a spare button in your glove box or tool box if the GTR button goes bad. Dave

Totally makes sense now. I actually understand 90% of it. So does this mean the FT is a better flowing Carb with less intrusion of the center ramp? Does the smoother floor to ramp layout improve flow over the Round Top? Better power or MPG? Basically, what does each change do for the mixture and power from one carb to the next? Dave

Gentlemen, I still make all the upgrades you are interested in. Motorsport Auto is still a great Sponsor for the site and Typically has them in stock and ready for you to purchase. Please make sure you let them know that you saw the info for buying your upgrade HERE at CZCC!! They NOW carry The. 240Z Headlight Upgrade harness 240Z 6-pin Parking light upgrade harness 240Z/260Z/280Z 9-pin Parking light upgrade harness (For the S30's with a 9-pin Combo switch connector and Intermittent wipers. 240Z Sidemarker Conversion Plugs ZX alternator adaptor plug for installing an 81' to 83' Internally regulated alternator into your 240Z. The DZ-Start Push button Keyless ignition system All hand made by me and me alone, one peice at a time. If you have any questions on my products feel free to Call MSA or email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com Thanks again to all my previous customers and future customers. You help support the site and my family. Dave

I'll back that up Steve. No pic here either. Great info but pics would be awesome. Dave Also, the bottom pic links give me this........ "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"

The kick panel grill was pulled for the pics. Although, the door pod grill wouldn't stop a foot from penetrating it. But as big as it looks, it's not intrusive at all. There are a few scuff marks on the vinyl but no damage after all this time. The size of it helps people remember to be carefull when getting in. The kick pod speaker grill is metal but the door pod grill is only speaker grill cloth.

There is a member here at CZCC that sells a plastic version of the kick pods. Mine are Heavy Duty Fiberboard and fiberglass. You can make a door pod to miss the window crank. I have Power windows in my 240Z, so I can go bigger without issues. Look here.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?41202-Low-profile-kick-panel-speaker-pods-now-available Dave

As you can see from the pics below, the proper Door Pod can hold a larger speaker and easily achieve the Depth you need. Though there is 1) 5.25" and 1) 4" speaker in each pod, you can likely fit a 6.5" (16.8cm) speaker. The Kick panel pod in front of the door pod has an Alpine 6.5" speaker. The pod is easily removed and put back to stock without pillaging the car.

I guess he's trying to avoid the fenders. With that kinda inward taper, it'll miss the fender lip but it'll look funny, IMHO. Dave

Not sure if it's been said before.... We were watching "Blazing Saddles" and when they all come running out of the studio and onto the streets, there is a 240Z driving towards them in the traffic. 1974??? Film...

When I did this exact thing to my 260Z. I supported my engine with a grooved top 4"x6" beam, cut to size ( frame supported, with stands, measure the distance between the Front crank pulley and the ground, add 1" then cut a 1" deep groove to fit the pulley) If after the front crossmember has been removed, you feel you need more support on the engine, Then cut a 2 foot long 2x6 or 2x8 and lay it along the oil pan from front to rear and support it with a stand or small jack, in conjuction with the block on the crank. All this of coarse, if yo don't have an engine hoist. Dave

Try this....... http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

The standard is 1156 for a single filament and 1157 for a dual filament. about $3 at almost any auto parts store for a 2-pack

There ya go. The parking light wire and brake wire go to teh same bulb and you made an internal connection with the "Wrong" bulb. It happens. And just so ya know, if you see the dash lights on with the brake pedal, then ALL of the parking lights are coming on, but in the seated position, you'll obviously only see the dash bulbs. Dave