Zs-ondabrain

I think he was refering to the "Warning Switch" on the block below the MC. I was thinking the same thing but he didn't mention having soft brakes or brake issues, Typically, that switch only activates when the fluid is so low that the driver can actually feel a problem at the pedal. Dave

I think I might have a "Precious" for ya. if I find it, I'll throw it in the brake parts box with the Acc. relay. PS. I love your interior. now ya know, but don't tell my wife. Dave

Now you know why I love the early 240Z's, easy cheesy. I have the Mallory Unilite, Mallory Promaster coil and MSD 6AL. It's a breeze to instal and run but throwing older Fuel injection in the mix just confuses my feeblel mind. I love simplicity. I tried, Dave

I was thinking the same thing. Basically, a circuit controlled Relay that would break the output line after, say 15.25 VDC. Couldn't be too hard to come up with. There are countless amperage fuses, why not a voltage fuse. Something small that could be attached to the alternator, or near the VR on the fender. Something that allows about 15.2 volts and 70 amp thru but breaks the line at 15.3 volts or 75 amps?? Anyone know of something like that? could be a marketable item. Dave

Not sure if they pertain to your exact issue but might be worth the read.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22166 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139267

I replaced my early 260Z Acc. Relay with a 30/40 Tyco relay. You're welcome to it. If you want, I'll throw it in the brake parts box. Let me know before monday. Dave

I believe he has the Urethane air dam, like mine. IIRC it's a Zenon or Xenon and it flexible like mine. Not 100% sure but 90% maybe

Call every Junk yard. Pull a part or yard and look for ANY S30 then grab the headlight adjusters. Or place a "WTB" Want To Buy ad in our classifieds, 15,000 members, somebody's got a spare set. Maybe?

Sounds like a problem with your turn signal switch. The brakes run thru the switch, and if there is a bent tab or something, you'll get a weird result, like on your Z. Time to take it apart and clean and rebuild. Dave

I can rebuild or replace them, email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com

You can, if they don't look in the bag, that's in the box. hahaha. It also helps if you know the guys behind the counter (I'm a regular there, so it helps)

the 44PW-22 runs about $40 and less for the PW20 (same thing but less mounting angle plastic peices) and still has the right peices though.

No insult felt here. I was just stating out loud I guess. Sometimes it comes of as strong when I state fact or opinions. Sorry if you felt troubled in any way, not what I set out to do. When I reach speed, say 35mph, It may fall under 3k but I only let it stay there if the road is on the empty or uncluttered side. If there is traffic around, I'll keep it at 3000 or higher. Reason being that People in general, are stupid. And stupid people like to aim for my little Z or just don't pay attension. Being at a higher RPM allows me a quicker get away from tailgators or cars coming from the side. I love to drive my Z as much as possible but the idots make me wanna find more and more backroads to get where I'm going.... My 5-speed is out of a 79' 280ZX and the diff is a 3:90 R200 with CV axles. I love the combo as it gives great MPG but still has UMPH!! at low RPM's Dave

The LED taillight conversion is $250 for the 240Z's and 300 for the 260Z/280Z taillights. You send them to me, I tear them down, clean everything, build custom Plates to hold the LED's, polish the lenses, put it all back together, test them and send them back. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com for more info. Dave Here's a couple for ya.

The Z's engine WAS built as a SPORTS CAR motor. Sports cars are typically, or almost always equipted with PERFORMANCE motors. I agree with Many of his rules. These cars don't have crap for power in the lower band (under 3000 RPM) I don't think I go for more then 2 days without driving my Z around town. And in doing that, I, 90% of the time, shift at 3K or above. I always get great gas milage, power at my feet and no lugging from the motor. My 70' 240Z has over 185,000 miles on it and it runs awesome. I clear out the motor all the time by reving it under a load to around 5500 RPM. blows out the crud and she keeps on going. Sure, she blows some blacker smoke when I hit around 6500 to 7000 RPM, but that's to be expected from an almost 40 year old original block with 15K shy of 200,000 miles on it. And it's all stock on the bottom end, no rebuild yet. Oliver has been working on Z cars for over 23 years and detroit Muscle 13 years before that. I trust his work and look to him for advice often. I am personally trusted by hundreds, if not thousands of Z car owners for parts that I build for their cars and the knowledge I have about cars. I trust Oliver and his rules. So rev the damn thing up and drive it like a sports car. Or get rid of it to someone who will. JM2CW. Dave

Yup. The old bump stops typically fall apart or degrade over time. Always best to go with a new set every 20 or so years. you're over-due. hehe. Dave

WOW, an hour and a half and someone didn't jump on this one. You guys sleeping at your desks or what??? John, I personally use KYB struts and they are a great after-market replacement for your stock struts. $110 for a pair. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC02A/23-4030 But I highly suggest doing all 4 at the same time. Here are the rears for only $100 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC02A/23-4031 There are plenty of other brands but if you're only replacing stock struts, and not lowering the Z, then the KYB's will work great, and for a good price. Also order some new Bump stops while you're at it. Dave

Check the 3 wire connector on the Turn signal switch. There should be a Red/yellow, a red/ white and a smaller red/black? Check the connections there and at the white switch on the T/S switch body, which also has those same red/yellow and red white wires. Those are the Hi and Low beam wires. Also use an ihms meter to see if the switch is working properly. Dave

Yup, use the search function. This subject has been written about several times and documente like crazy. Good Luck, Dave

Hey, want some parts? they're free.... I sure as heck don't need 'em anymore. Seriously, anyone who wants my rear drum brake parts is welcome to them. Drums (with one or 2 small fins chipped or knocked off) but they still work fine. 2 brake cylinders, springs, cups, retainers, etc. The fronts were used for a core charge on the toyota brakes.

Already got the brand New one in the 260Z. Fully polished, shiny and installed. But thanks. And on a more personal note.... Is the wrie-up up to par? Does it meet the general JM standards? Dave

When I replaced mine for the same reason. I ended up going with the METRA 44PW-22 power antenna. It is a fully automatic so it works great with my Pioneer stereo which has 1 wire to activate the antenna. It's almost a direct bolt in but requires a little rewiring. Just take the 2 wires from the antenna switch, wire one to battery power and connect that same wire at the antenna to the red antenna wire. Then take the other wire and connect it to the blue aftermarket radios wire and connect that same wire to the blue wire at the antenna. Ground the antenna wire in the back and you're done. If you're keeping your stock radio, just do the same as above but connect the wire that would go to the radio, to an acc. wire. This will raise the antenna when the key is on and lower it when you shut the key off. It has a nice low profile and makes it very hard for your local idiot (vandal) to get ahold of and break it intensionally. And I think that replacement masts are readily available. in chrome or black. Dave