Zs-ondabrain

I've thought about it. And the GM mount actually needs to have it's mounting holes widened a little to clear the girth of the large diff mount bolts. The GM mount is only $22 at Jegs. If I do a 40 order with the GM mounts, I'd be into it for about $2000. so I would need some definate orders before considering a large order like that. If I charge $30 for the GM Poly mount, I would also enlarge the holes before shipping everything out. I figure the easier it is, the better it sells, kinda like the upgrades for the 240Z's. Plus it takes an aproval committee for MSA to commit to buying anything other than a test run quantity. Plus, so as to not infringe on a name-sake. I'm thinking "ZS Mount" or Z/S30 Diff Mount" Dave

It will but you'll have to remove that exhaust hanger that is spot welded to the body, just above the drivers side, strap bolt holes. You'll also have to push your fuel lines upward, about an inch or so, after you remove the floating line clamp that sits above the passenger side, strap bolt holes. Dave

So by my count, I want........... (1) ConchZ.......... (1) vercingetorix... (1) Motorman7..... (1) Diseazd.......... (3) SteveE.......... (1) Zedyone_kenobi (1) Z_Tyler_Z.......(1) That's 10. 20 more and ya'll save $5. Or 10 more and we're good for an order of 20. Half way there in less than 6 hours. I figure another day or 2 and we'll have enough. ARNE, I don't wanna make it "Official" unless it's a sure thing. So if all of a sudden, orders start coming in via posts on this thread, then YES, move it to the group buy area. But lets see where this goes. Dave

Well, that's a start. The more orders I get, the cheaper I can sell them for. At 20, I can sell them for $60 w/ 2-3 day shipping in the US. At 30, I can sell them for $55 w/ 2-3 day shipping in the US. Not 5 to 7 days like Roostmonkey does. Anyone else? I know I need a second one for my own Z. (My 240Z) Should I start a thread? Dave

I agree with Will, replace the tub. Look around for a spare tub, they're out there, I've seen 'em. Dave EDIT** Found one down the road from me, a perfect spare tire well. his name is KEN and is a good friend. Tell him Dave in Marysville sent ya. http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/1456587675.html Hope that helps. Dave

So you need to check fluid levels and check the wire that goes to the junction under the master cylinder. That wire is connected to a pressure switch that is also connected to the "BRAKE" warning light in your speedo. So the Ebrake and pressure switch will both light the warning light in the speedo if there is an issue. Bleed the hell out of ALL 4 Corners, top off the fluids, check connections and also check the brake pads and shoes.

This Group Buy is for the Over the diff mount currently known as the "R/T Mount" That is typically sold on HybridZ.org by a great member named RoostMonkey. I've chosen to make and sell the Mount, not for a profit of any real amount, but as a secondary option to those who cannot find him, or wait for him to build them and ship them. I asked him about patents and such and got this for an answer.... "No, I dont have a patent. Actually I used Ron Tyler's basic design ( hence the name " RT mount" ) with his permission and added my own little details to make what I feel is a slightly cleaner product. Theres nothing to stop someone from doing the same. If your thinking of making these, do us all a favor and make them better ( if possible ).Dont just copy this design. I only do this to help you guys out and to put a little cash in the Z fund." So In Honor of Ron Tyler and his original design, I will keep the R/T Mount name on the product, to make sure the originator gets his due respect and recognition. So here we go......... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ This Group Buy is for the R/T Mount for the S30 Zcars. Here's a link to some great info on the R/T Mount.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35995 The mount is a 3/16" mild steel mount that bolts to the body of the S30, using the 4 bolt holes that the "Diff Strap" normally uses. Normally, the stock or upgraded diff of the S30 (R180, R200 & LSD) is mounted to the car using the stock crossmember and a rubber/steel mount. The Nissan mount has been well known for failing under heavy stress, age or Horsepower, by means of the rubber seperating from the steel of the OEM mount. When this happens, the Diff typically makes a Loud and very apparent "THUD" against the driveline tunnel, scaring or irritating the driver and leaving only the Mustache bar to hold the diff in place. Not very safe at all. The R/T mount will allow the use of a GM Transmission Poly Urethane Mount and also lower the front of the diff by about 1" which is typically better for those who use the Tranny's bolted to an LS1, SR20DET, RB25, 26 and 30 DET and DETT's as well the Borg/Warner T5 and T56 trannies. The R/T mount, sold by me, will be $60 and shipping inside the Continental US is included in the $60 price. The Mount sold at HybridZ is $55 or $62 w/ PayPal. I don't work for a Metal Fab business so I don't get the opportunity of an in-house price. I will make barely anything on this project as I will be paying much more for the same mount and covering the price of shipping, fuel and packaging/stuffing, using the $60 payment. So as per RoostMonkey's suggestion and my own personal experience, I will be IMPROVING the mount. The fuel lines have to be raised on almost all S30's by about 1/2". The NEW Design will include a modification to the mount to account for this small issue. 2 more bends will be added to the design, giving the mount a 3/4"w X 1"deep indent on the upper right hand side of the mount, to allow the fuel lines to remain in their stock location, without alteration or modification of their original position. YOU WILL NEED TO ORDER A GM TRANS MOUNT FROM JEGS FOR $21+S/H and drill out the mounting holes a little bit to allow the large diff bolts to pass thru it **Pics Below** It is a "Fail Safe Mount" so even if the Urethane rips or seperates, the mount will NOT fail. It has also been pointed out by a few members that a bump stop can used instead of the GM mount. This will allow the use of the stock mount and a bump stop mounted on the R/T mount, to essentially "Sandwich" the diff. This will eliminate both up and down movement of the diff. Now the down side...... I do NOT have a PayPal Account I can only accept Cash, USPS Postal Money Orders or WalMart Money Orders Made out to David W. Irwin. Send your Payment with your order stating......... Your Name Return Address (clearly printed or typed) Quantity Mail your order to me at........ David W. Irwin 6421 105th St. NE Marysville, WA. 98270 You can PM or Email me your request but money and an order in my hand, is what will get you your mount. Todays date is Nov 10, 2009. I'm told that I will possibly be able to start shipping orders by next Wednesday, the 18th. Or maybe even sooner if possible. I'm ordering a batch of 50 in hopes of taking care of everyone at the general moment. I'll be on a net 30 so if you said you WANT one, and change your mind, it'll come out of my pocket. So please be kind to this somewhat broke individual and don't tell me you want one, then say, maybe? or next month. At a measily price of $60, you'll get a quality product that will bolt into your S30, improve the mounting of your stock diff, allow you to "up" your HP without worry of a torn mount. I think I've covered everything. So feel free to start sending me your orders and payment and I will start shipping them out hopefully as soon as the 18th.

I think he was refering to the "Warning Switch" on the block below the MC. I was thinking the same thing but he didn't mention having soft brakes or brake issues, Typically, that switch only activates when the fluid is so low that the driver can actually feel a problem at the pedal. Dave

I think I might have a "Precious" for ya. if I find it, I'll throw it in the brake parts box with the Acc. relay. PS. I love your interior. now ya know, but don't tell my wife. Dave

Now you know why I love the early 240Z's, easy cheesy. I have the Mallory Unilite, Mallory Promaster coil and MSD 6AL. It's a breeze to instal and run but throwing older Fuel injection in the mix just confuses my feeblel mind. I love simplicity. I tried, Dave

I was thinking the same thing. Basically, a circuit controlled Relay that would break the output line after, say 15.25 VDC. Couldn't be too hard to come up with. There are countless amperage fuses, why not a voltage fuse. Something small that could be attached to the alternator, or near the VR on the fender. Something that allows about 15.2 volts and 70 amp thru but breaks the line at 15.3 volts or 75 amps?? Anyone know of something like that? could be a marketable item. Dave

Not sure if they pertain to your exact issue but might be worth the read.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22166 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139267

I replaced my early 260Z Acc. Relay with a 30/40 Tyco relay. You're welcome to it. If you want, I'll throw it in the brake parts box. Let me know before monday. Dave

I believe he has the Urethane air dam, like mine. IIRC it's a Zenon or Xenon and it flexible like mine. Not 100% sure but 90% maybe

Call every Junk yard. Pull a part or yard and look for ANY S30 then grab the headlight adjusters. Or place a "WTB" Want To Buy ad in our classifieds, 15,000 members, somebody's got a spare set. Maybe?

Sounds like a problem with your turn signal switch. The brakes run thru the switch, and if there is a bent tab or something, you'll get a weird result, like on your Z. Time to take it apart and clean and rebuild. Dave

I can rebuild or replace them, email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com

You can, if they don't look in the bag, that's in the box. hahaha. It also helps if you know the guys behind the counter (I'm a regular there, so it helps)

the 44PW-22 runs about $40 and less for the PW20 (same thing but less mounting angle plastic peices) and still has the right peices though.

No insult felt here. I was just stating out loud I guess. Sometimes it comes of as strong when I state fact or opinions. Sorry if you felt troubled in any way, not what I set out to do. When I reach speed, say 35mph, It may fall under 3k but I only let it stay there if the road is on the empty or uncluttered side. If there is traffic around, I'll keep it at 3000 or higher. Reason being that People in general, are stupid. And stupid people like to aim for my little Z or just don't pay attension. Being at a higher RPM allows me a quicker get away from tailgators or cars coming from the side. I love to drive my Z as much as possible but the idots make me wanna find more and more backroads to get where I'm going.... My 5-speed is out of a 79' 280ZX and the diff is a 3:90 R200 with CV axles. I love the combo as it gives great MPG but still has UMPH!! at low RPM's Dave

The LED taillight conversion is $250 for the 240Z's and 300 for the 260Z/280Z taillights. You send them to me, I tear them down, clean everything, build custom Plates to hold the LED's, polish the lenses, put it all back together, test them and send them back. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com for more info. Dave Here's a couple for ya.

The Z's engine WAS built as a SPORTS CAR motor. Sports cars are typically, or almost always equipted with PERFORMANCE motors. I agree with Many of his rules. These cars don't have crap for power in the lower band (under 3000 RPM) I don't think I go for more then 2 days without driving my Z around town. And in doing that, I, 90% of the time, shift at 3K or above. I always get great gas milage, power at my feet and no lugging from the motor. My 70' 240Z has over 185,000 miles on it and it runs awesome. I clear out the motor all the time by reving it under a load to around 5500 RPM. blows out the crud and she keeps on going. Sure, she blows some blacker smoke when I hit around 6500 to 7000 RPM, but that's to be expected from an almost 40 year old original block with 15K shy of 200,000 miles on it. And it's all stock on the bottom end, no rebuild yet. Oliver has been working on Z cars for over 23 years and detroit Muscle 13 years before that. I trust his work and look to him for advice often. I am personally trusted by hundreds, if not thousands of Z car owners for parts that I build for their cars and the knowledge I have about cars. I trust Oliver and his rules. So rev the damn thing up and drive it like a sports car. Or get rid of it to someone who will. JM2CW. Dave

Yup. The old bump stops typically fall apart or degrade over time. Always best to go with a new set every 20 or so years. you're over-due. hehe. Dave

WOW, an hour and a half and someone didn't jump on this one. You guys sleeping at your desks or what??? John, I personally use KYB struts and they are a great after-market replacement for your stock struts. $110 for a pair. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC02A/23-4030 But I highly suggest doing all 4 at the same time. Here are the rears for only $100 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC02A/23-4031 There are plenty of other brands but if you're only replacing stock struts, and not lowering the Z, then the KYB's will work great, and for a good price. Also order some new Bump stops while you're at it. Dave