Zs-ondabrain

If you're getting my headlight upgrade harness, you can run up to or over 100 watt bulbs and never worry about it. Dave

I use the 3 in 1 household oil. good dampening and quick responce.

That is incredible!!! How's Jim feel about losing his spot in the "Earliest Z car" list??? Once again, Carl's in the mix of things. I know who I wanna be just like when I grow up....

I totally agree with Peterc. Upgrades are great for bringing the car up to date, But believe it or not I'm more interested in Resolving the issue at hand before someone installs one of my upgrades. Write-up upon write-up has been done on updating, cleaning, improving and resolving electrical issues in the S30's. The Key points are always this......... Good battery and clean battery posts. Battery Corrosion is typically the cause of resistance and bad power flow (drawing more than the bad connections can handle.) New or Larger battery cables. Clean connections on both ends (Battery post clamps and ring terminals) Fireman don't bring a garden hose to the fire, they bring a FIRE hose. Power transfer is essential in ANY vehicle. If the vehicles body is one larger ground plain, shouldn't the battery have a better connection to the body then the stock, wimpy 6 gauge. I always suggest a 4 gauge upgrade but I personally use 2 gauge power wire. A 60 amp alternator will increase the battery refresh rate when coupled with better power wires connected to a good battery. Most people who do the ZX alternator upgrade, claim better headlights at an idle, brighter lights all around the car, faster wipers, better idle do to better power to the ignition system (points, coil, key, etc) The headlight upgrade harness will add relays to the headlight circuit. Thus reducing general power flow thru the fusebox, combo switch, and all other wiring associated with the headlights. The power to the headlights is now going straight from the battery, to the realys, to the headlights in a much shorter run, and the headlight circuit now only controls the relays. The parking light upgrade harness works on the same principle. It adds a relay after the combo switch, which puts a true 12 volts back into the system, bypassing the fusebox and combo switch as high current units. The result is brighter exterior lights and dash lights, and no more melted fusebox and failing combo switch. GROUND, GROUNDS, GROUNDS!!! Make sure all of your grounds are up to date. Unscrew them, clean them, clean the surface they are connected to and rebolt them, tightly. The HLH comes with new ground wires and the surface should be ground to the bare metal, attach the ground wire to the inner frame using the inner lower valance bolts, then coat with dielectric grease over the exposed metal to prevent rust or moisture from interupting that good ground. Hopefully this will get you started to an all around better electrical system. Dave

Hey Eric, I totally feel for ya. I'm fighting the same Uphill battle myself. Check this out.... There's 8 pages so far and a long way to go. You might even see something worthwhile in there...... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3195135 Dave

None of the things you described sounds like symptoms, they sound perfectly normal. Headlights always brighten when you accelerate, unless the electrical system had been updated. Turn signals make the gauge flicker on almost any Z, as the power is coming from the fusebox. Very typical. I don't see a problem other than the car is old and it may be time to upgrade your alternator to an internal regulated one from an 81' to 83' 280ZX, with my alternator upgrade adaptor. I also make a Headlight and a Parking light upgrade harness to improve the lighting and help save your fusebox and combo switch. IM me if you're interested. Dave They are also available at MSA ( www.zcarparts.com in the stock area, under "New technologies".

That should look nice on a Z. I'll be here, just let me know, Dave

See, I told ya someone had one. And now you're set. Dave

That would all depend on the shape and wear of the bearings. It's never a bad idea to replace them and the bearing races and repack the whole thing with new Hi temp bearing grease. (I think it's the red grease.) Wipe out as much of the old grease as possible, don't want any bearing flakes or shrapnol in your new bearings. And remember to only tighten them a little more than finger tight while you spin the rotor. Then lock it down with a new cotter pin. and cap it off. Dave

did'nt read Gary's post, did ya? Email me at wolfin32z and I'll sell you a Headlight upgrade harness, which is a Relay upgrade for your headlights. Or buy one from Motorsport Auto at www.zcarparts.com go to the stock parts area and look in the "New Technologies" area. Think hard about the Parking light upgrade harness as well. And I'm the guy that sells the upgrades and rebuilds the switches. Dave

Here ya go.... #1 Loosen counter-clockwise. The is a fast idle screw, used for ballancing the carbs at 3000 rpm with a flow meter. Never used unless ballancing the carbs, loosen till it don't touch the plate. #2 carb linkage ballance screw, loosen counter-clockwise. This screw helps make sure that the linkage hits both carbs at the same time. Eyeball this one to see that the carbs both move at the same time when you throttle up. #3 rear carb idle screw. loosen until the rear carb linkage no longer moves, then turn in (clockwise) about 1 turn, do the same for the same style and positioned screw on the front carb. #4 is no longer needed, as it's part of your old, non used, choke system.? I think. Either way, turn is out and use a zip-tie to lock that bracket to the throttle linkage arm that it's near. Also, Make sure your return springs are good and attached on both sides. Dave The attached picture is Your picture, but with numbered arrows

Or the firewall bracket from the 240Z. They're almost the same on the 240Z's. The 260Z had the "Sliding Shaft" style that won't work on the 240Z linkage, which you already found out. Ask around, you might find one here or there for cheap.

Got an LSD in there somewhere??

Yup, and we might also have... Dylan (21st B-day on sat (280Z) if he can get his car out of Z-Specialties shop?? Rick (60) (280ZX) and maybe his wife?? Michael O'Conner 40? (240Z) Austalian Bloke but great guy. IBZNYA (Kirk, 41) 260Z Crazy guy who drove to Seattle from Montana for his Daughter. Me 38, (240Z) whacko host who hopes everyone will enjoy themselves. AND............ ?????? Anyone else wanna come?

I gotta agree with Arne. The top 3 he mentioned are great. But if you feel a real need for an H4 bulb, like I use in my Z, I prefer the Euro look as apposed the Diamond cut. The Euro H4's are similar to the sealed beam bulbs. They are a round inner with the vertical and Horizontal lines that you're used to. The front glass is flat, as aposed to the round sealed beam, but they almost look the same. But the difference is I have 90/100 H4's in mine and they have the blue tint to them. The reason companys tint them in blue is that blue is easier on the eyes, as studies have shown. Where as pure white is harder on the eyes, especially at night. Halo's are just a style, so if you like 'em, get 'em. But don't upgrade your headlights without upgrading your headlight cicuit (upgrade harness) Dave

It's getting real close folks. Anyone here showing up for the Cruise and BBQ at my place on Sat?? Just a simple cruise and back to my place for a BBQ with good people. Anyone? Dave

So is anyone else showing up at my place for the Cruise and BBQ on Sat?? Just a simple get-together and small cruise, followed by a BBQ with friends. Anyone? Dave

And on a good note, your order showed up today. So your rebuilt T/S switch box assembly will be in the mail tomorrow. I just kept the 3-pin connector, wires and good tubing on it. So all you have to do is screw it on, plug it in and you're set. till something else breaks. P.S. NOT digging the Shag, even if it is a subtle loop pile carpet. That's a big NO-NO Dave

Please do. I won't complain, I promise....

Apology accepted.. See how easy that was.

Are we back to this shi.t again? It's been 3 days, what were ya doing? did it take ya that long to figure out a comeback? If ya really feel the need to add to your Post count by arguing everything, do it somewhere else. "My MSA 1" sway bar vs. the stocker. Diameter is clearly at least 40% larger than stock" No Shite, thanks Lieutenant Obvious. Should I tip my hat now? Or in another 3 days? This is getting old real quick.

So After discussing it with Kirk, I think we had a good idea for next Saturday.. Anyone in the general area of Marysville (give or take 40 miles) is welcome to meet at my house in Marysville around noon on Saturday. We'll all leave around 12:30 to 1pm and head up the Mountain Loop HWY. and take a break at one of the many campsites for a break at the River. Have a couple snacks and head back for a BBQ at my house. I'm thinking Burgers, dogs and drinks and Maybe even a Potluck of sorts. Bring what you want, store it at the house till we return from the drive and we'll all BS and share horror stories and such. Feel free to stick around and depart later on, then we'll all meet again at the 3rd Annual ZCCW car show at Performance Nissan in Everett on Sunday at noon. It sounds like a great way to spend your week-end with a short cruise, a BBQ and a car show the next day. Please PM me if you plan to show up at my house on Saturday around noon. I'll then give you the Address and cell number.

you can find full 5-piece carpet kits all over... Here's one from Motorsport Auto. for 240Z's and early 260Z's (up to 8/74) with Loop style carpet. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SIC103/40-2580G and here are some more... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SIC103

Kirk, Sent you a PM, Let me know what ya think. Dave