Zs-ondabrain

Are you F.U.C.K.I.N.G. Kidding me? Who the hell brought up Nationality in the comments? Get over yourself. NOBODY Bitched about Race, Creed, Religion or or Nationality. We bithed about you bitching. That's all. Once again, Kill this Stupid A$$ thread!!!! Moderators? Anyone?

Looks like your basic home security video. I have 4 camera's around my house as well. And it also does the time and date stamp. Video's without time and date stamps are not typically submissable in court. For their lack of time and date, it could have been anytime. I can download and burn DVD's of video footage to give to the local PD, in case of burglary, theft, accidents, etc. Very innexpensive set-up and well worth it. Sucks for the Z owner, looks like HE was the one at fault. Stay back and let them do their job. If they screw up, you were no where near the accident. Dave

Send me $20 and I'll ship both left and right push-rods to you. PM me for the details. Dave. By the way, where is the middle of no-where? If you're in the lower 48, then it's still $20 and I use USPS Priority Mail. (2-3 day)

15% is farely dark but Like Tyler said, It's not that much of an issue around here and I'm just ten minutes from Everett. I think 35 or 30% is the legal limit but as long as you roll down your windows when a Cop is near, they usually leave you alone. I've actually had conversations with the local PD, from inside the car, and they never even mention the tint. I guess the rest of the car is too much of a nice distraction. Maybe?

I use a 15% window tint, it reduces heat and Ultra-violet rays as well. I know it sounds weird putting a dark material on a car to cool it down, but it's what the tint does that's important. A/C will help when working properly and fully charged. A good blower like the Honda Conversion is never a Bad idea. If you don't mind tearing things apart, DynoMat and a few other companies make excellent Anit-Heat, Anti-Noise materials, that can be added to the firewall, floor, doors and anywhere else you feel the need to reduce heat.

I just saw my mistake, I meant 10/70. but it was always my understanding that the 70's only went as far as 10,000 or somewhere close to that. And I could have sworn I read that on your site Carl. But you guys know me, my brain is all over the place. I now see where I goofed, I mixed up the 12 on the vin with the 12 build date. Real sorry, been a real looong week. My 10/70 was registered as a 71' but that could have been a dealer thing too. They used to sell 70's as 71's to get the marked up price out of customers. Oh well. just asking. And this is how we learn, right? Dave

Looks great but what color is the car gonna be? Also, I have one of those weird questions and comments for ya....... Your Vin is in the 12,000's but your Z is a 70??? I've never heard of a 12K vin 70' 240Z. Unless the original Dealer registered it as a 70', knowing it was 71' Your build date is in Dec? I'll almost bet. I mention all this cause I used to have HLS30-12085 and it was built in Dec of 70 and was definately a 71' I don't think there were any 70's past the 10,000 vin mark. Anyone else find that weird? Carl? Any comments. Dave

That would be A chick, unless they don't mind sitting on a lap. hehe. Welcome, it's always nice to see another NW guy in here. not like tere aren't enough all ready..HAHA. Plenty of your fellow Oregonian's floating around here. Hope you find everything you need and all the help you can handle. Dave

Too Late, I AM OFFENDED! I was being nice at first, but now your pushing your luck. I AM a Supporter, a Supplier, and well rounded member of this site. I'm also an MSA Supplier, and for you to say that the parts associated with this site, "Are a joke", you're pointing at me directly. So I won't be cooling down anytime time soon ****1, or Richard, whatever. Go be bitchy somewhere else. Sitting there saying that MSA, CZCC and Courtesy parts is a joke is a quick way to lose a lot of good people and quality info, by being removed from the site or some other stupid thing. I obviously don't have that authority but if I did........... I'd seriously consider it. Hey Admins, kill this thread, it's absolutely useless. Dave

So I guess that the old phrase of "You get what you pay for" makes more sense now. I personally have no real issues with spending less on a good, decent replacement. But if I'm stuck with a piece of crap reproduction part, it's my own damn fault, for being the cheap bastard that I am. Live and learn, Dave

WOW!!! I've been here for almost 6 years now and have yet to come across half of the issues you seem to be having. Like mom always says, "It's not what you ask for, but how you ask for it" The hatch opening for 70' to 78' is the same. If you were to take that piece you just got, and try it on a 74' you'd find that you still have the exact same issue. If the part is bad, SEND IT BACK!!!. MSA is usually pretty good at returning and swapping bad stock for good. But you have to actually ask. No offence, but bitching never really gets you anywhere. Go to the classifieds, ask for a used but in good condition seal, that you can use particular areas of, to rebuild yours. The classifieds get looked at ALL DAY LONG. And you don't have to worry about the WTB or Request of parts, slipping off the front page, like most threads do. When you mention us as a "CLUB" you basically are blaming all of us for your being picky on the needed parts, and for the parts that YOU purchased, from an Entity that is not a member but a contributor to the site. Think before you speak, saves you a lot of time, when reading posts like mine. Ya think? FWIW, Dave

That ones been done to death

OK, don't hold it against me....but the wife had me watching old Michael Jackson as a "Remember these old video's" kinda thing. Anyways........ Michael Jackson Video Song : Stranger in Moscow Album : History (his-story) there is a 240Z to his left, driving by on the road at 1:32 - 1:35 and again at 1:52 - 1:54 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqZvsUbQKxQ You don't even have to turn on the sound if you don't want to.. Dave

Yes Carl, That's what he meant. I've ordered from them as well and they work well. The Upgrade harness from Black Dragon is the one that many of us, me included, have stressed about NOT buying. You have to cut the hell out of it to make it work. It's designed to work with Exposed connector headlights, unlike the S30's that have incased haedlights. You have to cut all the connectors off and hardwire them to your Z, unless you used OEM style connectors and terminals to make it work like My upgrade harness does. $30 is a good deal if you know what you're doing or have an exposed rear headlight system, And you don't mind the Bright yellow sleeving that it comes wrapped in..... I like CRC2 best for pairs of connectors and terminals by the piece. Dave

Call me crazy but it looks like your starter wire isn't even plugged into the solenoid. (Black/white stripe wire above the white power wire at the starter) It looks like it's touching but not quite plugged in.

Start with the wire on the starter, also check the ign. switch. It the 78' has a starter relay, check it for power with the key on and with the key turned to the start position.

The standard Weatherstripping kit, Struts, springs, Poly-Urethane kit and almost any standard 240Z equipment will work just fine on your 240Z. I think the only issue with a 70' is the ball joints in front. I think they are a different size than the other 240Z's. I'm sure some one else can confirm this...... Carl, Arne, Enrique?? someone?

Your light sockets are switched in the tach and the trun signal has a bad rocker inside the switch, not making contact.

The struts are a different size. The diff should bolt in, as should the mustache bar and lower control arms. I believe the 2+2 has taller and stronger (more stout) struts and springs and the purches sit at a different height. I too have a 70' 240Z and an early 260Z. The struts assemblies were different. I even remembered to t6ake a picture and make measurements. The pictures are of the front left struts. Not sure if the pics will even help but there they are. Dave

Not really. A new set of Halogens or H4's are still going to be dull without improving the power situation. The HLH will introduce relays into the system and the headlight will get their power directly from the battery, turning your combo switch into a switch that only sends a signal to the relays, rather than powering the whole circuit. Being a plug and play harness, you won't have to cut, drill or alter anything to instal and use the HLH. Just unplug your headlight plugs in front of the radiator, mount the relay pack using one of the Voltage regulator screws, connect the harness to your headlight plugs, connect the power wire to the battery, bolt down the ground wires using your lower vallance bolts that are located on the inner frame of the front end and you're done. With the harness in place, you can use any new set of lights that fit, including H4 conversion lights up to 100 watts without ANY issues to the system. Email me if you're interested. Dave

Here what is?

Trying to work on the damn 260Z again. It's almost a lost cause with all the other stuff going on around my house. :stupid: Anyways...... The Parking light circuit includes..... Dash lights Front and rear side markers Rear taillights Front marker lights (in the turn signal housing License plate lights This is the major reason behind my Parking light upgrade harness. I'm willing to bet that your front sidemarkers and lower markers are also out. That being said, It sounds like your Combo switch is faulty. It happens more often than you'd think. The teeter totter contacts are not being pressed down hard enough in the second position (headlights on) I would start with removing the switch and attempting to repair the switch. Just don't lose any parts and DO NOT USE REGULAR GREASE. Use a very small amount of Di-electric grease on the bullet track (the area that the spring loaded bullet slides on) As you can tell from the list above, Th parking light circuit has about 19 bulbs, 30+ feet of wire, one Rheostat and a butt load of old connectors and one switch. The fusebox and the combo switch take the heaviest hit by switching and supplying the needed power for all that old wiring and bulbs. I'm not trying to push business my way, as I could always use a day off, but it also sounds like it's time to get my PLH (parking light upgrade harness) and my HLH (Headlight Relay Upgrade Harness) The will introduce Relays into a tired system and put power back into the systems and remove the heavy amperage loads that destroy the combo switch and fusebox. Email me at wolfin32Z@yahoo.com for more info, pricing and other details. Also, Use the search engine to find different threads on the same subject. Dave. Also, clean your fuses and fuse clips when you get a chance. Also make sure all your grounds are in tip top shape (Start with the one above the engine harness, below the battery tray)

All 240Z's came with 17mm ?? front sway bars. Increasing that to even a 19mm and adding a 17 or 19mm rear bar will change thing dramatically. When I added a 19mm to the rear of my 70', the difference was night and day. No more sloshing around. and increasing the front to a 23mm was even better. I personally wouldn't go any larger than the 25 / 19 combo. But that's just me. And don't forget to add just a thin film of the Urethane grease to each peice as you install it. Especially the sway bars. Dave

add a 25mm front sway bar and a 19mm in the rear and she'll rock right thru those corners. New KYB struts are about $50 a corner and well worth it. KYB's are great fro stock applications but if you lower it, go with the Tokiko's. I love my 70' beyond words, so I totally understand where you're coming from. enjoy, Dave

Nope, just 4 nuts and the fan assembly comes off, unless you have a shroud, then it's a little tougher. Just put the nuts back on with an addition washer to clear the stud more, and hold the pulley on properly.