Zs-ondabrain

I was kinda wondering the same thing. I'm removing Everything A/C related in the 260Z and the enginge bay is empty but the rest of it remains in the dash. I plan to remove all of it but was concerned about continuing the air flow properly, though the main dash unit was missing. Just wondering if I had to build any kind of Duct unit or walls to keep the air flow correct. I plan on installing a Double Din Pioneer Unti and having the A/C out of the way, will make it easier. I'm also getting rid of the Vaccum ran heater/AC equipment and making a few things Manual by cable. This 260Z will not have anyting that is Untouched. I guess I need to dig deeper and research it all before ripping it apart. So I'll be paying attension to this thread. Dave

loosen the 10mm bolt on the neck of the dizzy, turn the dizzy clockwise to retard it. then retighten.

Are we still talking "Sway Bars"?? HeHeHE hahaha

Well, it was a 50/50 shot, and mine looked like a 20mm. But then again, When I me Leah, I told her that 5 inches was 6". LOLLOL

I always thought it was 19mm so that kinda throws a wrench in your works. I don't have my stock one any more cause both cars have been swapped out for 25mm bars. If I had to throw a guess out there, I'd say 20mm

OK and to clean all those parts up (intakes and ballance tube) I would (and do ) use a glass bead media blaster. Or you can use a wire wheel on a bench grinder on the non contact surfaces (where the ballance tube mounts and the intakes and carbs mount) Check out my gallory for some examples... Polished carbs..... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=2&ppuser=4921 These were wire wheeled on the bench grinder, no polishing, just the wire wheel.... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17547&ppuser=4921 Theses are straight glass bead, no wire wheel or polish.... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=25697&ppuser=4921

So are these replacing a set or finishing a project? I used every tool I got on hand, I don't see any missing parts.

Personally, I would pull the adaptor and see exactly where the horn tab is riding on the copper plate. It sounds like the tab may be moving off to the side and grounding on the metal of the adaptor, causing the horn to honk. Make sure the tab is dead center on the plate and tighten the screw that holds the tab centered. Dave

the driveshaft has Ujoints in front and rear. If it was rattling around for that long, new joints couldn't hurts. And definately have the ballance checked after wards.

"Hey man!! Someone stole your ba'try, I say we go get the Mother trucker." I love that line, Reminds me of an old girlfriends 200SX that constantly said, "Door is adjar"

If they are going to be permanent gauges, in the car, you can't go wrong the AutoMeter gauges. Decent prices and NO!!! Don't run the car without the gauges. You could run out of oil, overheat and dump buttloads of fuel down the intake, All without even knowing it without gauges. Hook it all up, then run it.

We're definately gonna try for Sunday. We have made it 2 years in a row, so the third time should be a charm. I really wanted to bring the 260Z but I shot to high in my guest-a-ment as to a finish date. Turns out, I was off by about a year. But on a good note, My ZG Flares and Carpet kit will be in next week, and the weather-stripping kit is back ordered. Front suspension is done, rear is ready to go in after undercoating. After I mount the ZG's, I can measure up and order the wheels. (17"x 9.5" Rota's) Hope to see everyone there. Dave

Ditto..... plus I never really looked into it for rebuidability

Me too, that's why I asked.

Refresh my memory. What does FTW stand for again? And what do ya mean by Starter button. Are you suggesting one? I'm working on a Nissan Start/Stop switch/button to "Plug-N-Play" for the Datsun 240Z. It's got a ways to go before I can test it but I'm keeping my hopes up. It will incorporate the Maxima Start/Stop ign. button. Press the button once to turn on the ACC. Then press the brake pedal and press the start button to activate the start sequence. After the car is running, the next press of the button will stop the engine but the Radio will stay on until the door opens. To listen to the radio with the door open, just press the button again to turn on the ACC. Shutting the door and arming the system will kill the ACC. It's really hurting my brain but if it all comes together as planned, I should be able to sell them for much less then the competition. You'll just unplug the connector plug from the back of the ignition switch and plug it into the unit. Remove the igntion switch from the steering column, hog out the hole a little so the Nissan switch will snap into the hole, then run the cable from the switch into the unit. Tap the door pin wire, tap the brake switch wire and a few others and vah-voom, you're ready to go. I plan to sell it with a keyless entry system that will not allow the unit to work unless the keyless system is disarmed. I'm hoping for an RFID system so that the unit can identify the driver from a theif. More later, Dave

It's a privately owned, gated off road. No road signs or traffic, No Police or anything of that sort. It's rentable for $250 for 4 hours (I believe) Located in Maryhill, WA on the Columbia river off SR 14? I think. And when you have 20+ people, $250 devided among 20 drivers is only $12.50 each. If you want more info on the road itself, cantact Ken at czcc.org as he knows about renting it and so on. It's a complete dead end road that ends at the top of a hill with enough room for about 25 cars and easily enough room to turn around and go back down. Ya'll missed a hell of a drive and week-end. So if you NW guys can't make it to MSA next year, plan on this trip as an alternative. It's cheaper, closer and more active and personal. If I go next year, I'll bring a better camera for Videos. My car handled beautifully and sounded great, though the wind proved louder than the car as the Mic picked up the slightest breeze. Dave.

Well, you all missed out on an AWESOME weekend of traveling thru the great Northwest in lower Washington and upper Oregon. We went to the Maryhill Winery, Museum, Stonehenge replica and the famous Maryhill Loop Road. Met some great people and friends, drove many a winding road, hit speeds of over 125MPH on SR 14 and the scenery was Breath taking. Go to Youtube and look up " Maryhill Loop Road " ZCCW.org 4/26/09 Here's a link to my 70' 240Z going down the hill. It's little grainy but it's me. Leah was recording so yo get what ya get. I still love her though. Dave

Thanks Arne, and you're right about needing some real software but a new computer is in order first. Like it says though, The write up is there for what ever interpritation you choose. And the pertronix is a great unit but only as good as the chassis it's installed into. The Full listed ignition system above is on the pricey side but when installed is an awesome system as a whole.

I've been asked by many members and non members about my ignition set-up and after writing the info so many times, I figure it would'nt hurt to post the needed info here at CZCC. And now you can send this thread link to others who may be looking for the same info. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I typically put a lot of praise on the Unilite, versus the worn bearings and parts of the stock distributor. Changing the set-up from points to infra-red is always a great idea but it's like putting a New head on an Old block, the head can't perform optimumly because the pistons and rings are worn. The optical pick-ups of the Unitlite and the Pertronix are are basically the same but the the chassis and bearings of the Unilite were built to work in unison with the Mallory infra-red circuit board. So in short the Pertronix is a band-aid over an untreated, infected wound. Here's what I have in my 70' and everything works great. Not to mention that it's pretty easy to wire up. Mallory Unilite, Stock Ballast resistor, MSD 6A, MSD tach adaptor, Mallory Promaster Coil, stock tach. #1) The OEM tach was designed to work around 1.5 ohms, where as the Flamethrower puts twice the resistance in the circuit (3.0 ohms) and the tach strains under the resistance, therefore only working at half it's potencial.. (about 4000 RPM) on occasion #2) The wiring is pretty simple. I use male and female connectors, so that the MSD can be bypassed upon failure, if it should occur. The small red and white wire of the tach adaptor connect to the small red and white of the MSD 6A (and even the 6AL) I've attached a diagram of the wiring that should be pretty easy to follow. I also included a diagram of Just wiring the unilite w/o the MSD. On the Unilite.... Brown wire gets grounded to a clean grounding bolt (I use the bolt of the ballast resistor) Green wire connects to the white wire of the MSD and the tach adaptor Red wire connects to the datsuns green/white wire on the ballast resistor On the MSD.... Ground the Large Black wire close to the MSD unit. Large Red wire gets a (10 amp fuse) and goes to the battery. (draws 1 amp per 1000 RPM) small White to the white wire of the tach adaptor and they both connect to the green Unilite wire. small red to the small red of the Tach adaptor and they both go to the black/white wire that was connected to the stock coils (+) bolt Black and orange sleeved wires go to the Coil (black to (-) and Orange to the (+) The green and purple wires are NOT used, as they are for a crank type sensor. #3) Will this work on my stock 240Z tach? This all works on the Stock Tach. The Promaster coil is rated at 0.60 ohms but I've Never had an issue and I know for fact that the needle will swing to 8000RPM (My throttle stuck when I forgot to instal a return spring on the SU's after I installed them. OOPS #4) What are the part numbers and prices?? Mallory Unilite p/n 4763901 w/vaccum advance. $389 at Jegs and Summit Racing. MSD 6A (6200 series) $171 at Jegs and Summit Racing MSD 8910 Tach Adaptor $40 at both Jegs and Summit Racing Mallory Promaster Coil W/ correct Ballast resistor $82 at Jegs If the link does work, go to Jegs and type in promaster coil 29440 and make sure the picture shows the ballast resistor http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/29440/10002/-1# I use nothing but NGK plugs (BP6ES) gapped at .060 and NGK Blue spark plug wires. You can pick up the plugs and wires from most auto parts stores. The plugs run about $2 a peice and the wires are around $20 to $35 http://www-b.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/240Z/NGK/Ignition_Wire_Set/19701973/W0133-1625833.html #5) Is it worth it?? Definately worth it. I installed the Unilite 3 years ago and haven't had to touch it once, other than to clean the brass tips inside the cap. I still have the same cap and rotor that came with the Distributor. The rotor has a removable brass arm that can be pulled and cleaned and reinstalled when needed. The total of everything NEW is about $720 before shipping but you now have part numbers and can research them and probably find them cheaper on eBay or elsewhere. I did'nt pay that much because I do a lot of Trade work which results in some great deals from friends and such. If anyone has pertinent info to add to this thread feel free. I did not however, write this thread to be debated or commented on. What you see is what you get, as all the info is true to the best of my knowledge and current as of 4/23/09 Additional charges for tax and shipping will and can be found on the above web-sites. MSD Unilite Promastr Ballast wiring.bmp Unilite Ballast wiring.bmp

The vaccum has nothing to do with the electric fuel gauge. Just remember the the fuel gauges are slow to respond, so as the vehicle moves, the needle will respond accordingly. Both of my Z's do the same thing, and so does my mini van. On the Z's, the more left turns and uphill drives that you do, the higher the reading, as the sender is on the right side of the tank. It also sounds like the trani mounts are tired or loose. And the motor mounts are also likely the cause. Wheel vibration can be transfered to the motor and trani just as easy. When's the last time the wheels were ballanced? Dave