Zs-ondabrain

And here's a link to the Calendar event. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=419&day=2009-4-25 Please post here and let us know if you'll be attending or at least considering it. Dave

Me and Leah will be there for sure. Can't afford to go to MSA this year and this will be a great chance to get out of the house, not spend as much as we would if we did the MSA thing and still meet a whole bunch of Z car guys and gals and go on a Beautiful drive of the great North West. Thanks for the info Johnny, My name is Dave, and I too am a Z-aholic. Dave.

no real difference other than 3 or 4 screws, and a few other things but no performance difference.

Yes, there are 2 speeds on the honda motor, just like the datsun motor. Your contacts are probably to blame. Remove the switch from the steering column, the wiper switch is on the bottom half of the stalk. Remove the two small screws and the other screw near the wire clamp. DO NOT PRY THE METAL TABS UP TO REMOVE FIBER PLATE!! They usually break off and you don't want to deal with that. Carefully remove the switch over a towel, to not lose the two plastic bullets and springs. Use a small screwdriver to pop the contact plates out. Takes a little wiggling but they'll come out. Clean them with steel wool or a small Stainless steel wire brush, to get in the burnt hole that you'll likely find. Clean off any old grease where the bullet slides back and forth. If you have a curved hobby file, use that to clean the contact posts inside the switch. Or fold a small peice of 360 grit sandpaper to reach in and brush the posts clean. Wiper contacts are not typically HI amperage so blackening of the contacts should not be too evident. Also clean the plate cradles, where the plates rest on them, this is usually missed by most people and is very important. Use a little Di-electric grease ( available at most auto parts stores for .99 cents for a packet of bulb grease- same thing) inside the spring hold to hold the springs and bullets in place when you re-assemble the switch. Make sure the plates snap back in to their cradle when you put them back in, before re-assembly. Hope this helps a little. Dave.

The 4-screw carbs were the early version. The float bowl with NO drain bolt is an earlier version. No big deal or difference, except that one is drainable and one it not. just pull the rubber tube to drain it.

Dig deeper and find out what gauge the wire is, this will help in determining where it goes and what it does. This is for a 75 but most Alternator wiring is the same. 75 280Z wiring diagram.pdf

Sounds like you need to clean and rebuild your switch. No need to replace it, just clean all the contacts.

In the engine compartment, 1) Disconnect all the fuel lines, blow them out and physically feel that each tube (nozzle) has sufficiant air flow, 2) blow out the rubber lines, 3) Remove the bolt on each float bowl and remove the Banjo neck (metal inlet) and clean them as well as the small (last chance) screen filter. 4) remove the drain plug on each float bowl and drain them 5) remove the small rubber tubes (from the bowls to the nozzles) and blow them out as well as using a cotton swab to clean out any clinging crap. (I use alcohol on a Q-tip) Blow out the nozzles and check the needles for straightness and carefully clean them. All this may seem repetative but at least you'll know that everything from the pump to the needles is clean and no longer an issue. The steps above are what I personally do EVERY time I work on a system, basically like Preventive maintanence. After everything is clean, run the fuel thru them and then remove the piston and look into the nozzle for proper fuel level as stated by Bruce. Adjust accordingly. It takes time but well worth it in the end. If you're running a fuel pump, get a regulator and adjust it to 3.5 to 4 pounds, tops. A small pressure gauge should help as well. Dave

There is NO disabling the safety, at all. As for "Breaking something" I won't happen. I've installed power door locks on 240Z's more then 20 times and over a period of 20 years. There has never been an issue with breakage. Keep in mind that the actuators have spring loaded clutches and thermal breakers built in. They are designed to Not break because of a malfunctioning door lock, or what the actualtor may consider to be malfunctioning. Just instal them and stop overthinking this. It's not complicated, just don't lock the doors unless the doors are shut. Are you doing a keyless entry/remote system? The locks will only engage if the door is closed, no holding up the handle or anything else will allow it to lock. Just remember that the lock rod is thick compared to other makes and models and will need to ground down a little. This is the other thing I do for a living, trust me. Dave.

Everyone is hurting around here and charging for everything. guess I need to learn how to do it myself. There's another grand out of my pocket, Damnit. :bulb: ding ding ding, tell him what he's won. Like a pendulum on a grandfather clock. ROFL Guess it also depends on how hot it is outside too. I typically use Crystal Clear Hi-temp clear coat. Especially on any steel parts that were polished, then I relube everything mechanical. Thanks for the compliments guys, makes it a little more worth all the work.

click on this link and scroll down to post #16. It shows installed locks, to give you idea of how to do it. but you must shave the lock rod a little to allow it to fit in the locks attachment block (small block that attaches to the lock rod with 2 screws.) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20276&page=2 Also use the search button and type in " Power door locks" and you'll find plenty on the subject. Dave

Welding is for those in the KNOW, and I'm not on that list. I don't have aluminum welding experience and the local guy charges too much. The next set I do will be welded shut but I was in a hurry on this one. And " Mr. Ding Ding" is a sexual reference that we won't go into on this thread. hehehe!! mlc240Z... Thank you!! I could do better but I was in a hurry to get these on. Definately a BIG difference between the Triple Webers and the SU's. Instant power versus progressive power is really noticable. But at least it's not backfiring with every step on the pedal.

Actually, MSA has chosen to not sell the later 240Z-260Z-75' 280Z 9-pin PLH. They are real busy getting ready for the Zcar Show at the end of the month. They'll likely pick them up a while after the show is done. Remove your steering column cover and look at your combo switch connector. Is it a 6-pin (just like your ignition connector) or is it a 9-pin connector (small and square) If you have a 9-pin connector, write me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com and let me know there. The 9-pin PLH is $50 (inside the US) Thanks for the compliments, Dave

And that was the direction of my question in the first place. I don't know where I got these ones but they work fine so I ain't bitchin. Would be nice to find another set though. Hey Bruce, What is an SU SU? Roadster?

Well the wife calls me " MR. DING DING" Does that count? I just got in from installing them. Here's the shots. Just ignore the Choke cables, they were modified to work with my triple webers, now I need another set to replace these ones. Dave.

Well I finally finished the set for my 240Z. I have triples at the moment but they are so out of whack that I'd prefer the SU's over the Webers, just for tunability. I know my MPH will be better and these will look better until my 3 liter is done being built. I wet-sanded everything with 400 then 600 grit SP. Then went thru 2) 6" spiral sewn pads. I also tried to polish as much steel as possible. You'll notice, if you look close enough, that I replaced all the screws and bolts with Allen head screws in chrome and stainless steel. I just need to find a Hi RPM idle adjustment plate and pushball for the throttle attachment on the Ballance tube and then they go on. Can't wait. Dave.

Your best bet would be NGK Blue spark plug wires. I have the Unilite, MSD 6AL, Promaster coil and NGK plugs. The NGK wires seem to be the best I've used thus far. Dave

And now you know why we stress on actually pulling the fuses and testing them, as well as cleaning the terminals. Glad you figured it out. Dave.