Zs-ondabrain

Sounds like you need to clean and rebuild your switch. No need to replace it, just clean all the contacts.

In the engine compartment, 1) Disconnect all the fuel lines, blow them out and physically feel that each tube (nozzle) has sufficiant air flow, 2) blow out the rubber lines, 3) Remove the bolt on each float bowl and remove the Banjo neck (metal inlet) and clean them as well as the small (last chance) screen filter. 4) remove the drain plug on each float bowl and drain them 5) remove the small rubber tubes (from the bowls to the nozzles) and blow them out as well as using a cotton swab to clean out any clinging crap. (I use alcohol on a Q-tip) Blow out the nozzles and check the needles for straightness and carefully clean them. All this may seem repetative but at least you'll know that everything from the pump to the needles is clean and no longer an issue. The steps above are what I personally do EVERY time I work on a system, basically like Preventive maintanence. After everything is clean, run the fuel thru them and then remove the piston and look into the nozzle for proper fuel level as stated by Bruce. Adjust accordingly. It takes time but well worth it in the end. If you're running a fuel pump, get a regulator and adjust it to 3.5 to 4 pounds, tops. A small pressure gauge should help as well. Dave

There is NO disabling the safety, at all. As for "Breaking something" I won't happen. I've installed power door locks on 240Z's more then 20 times and over a period of 20 years. There has never been an issue with breakage. Keep in mind that the actuators have spring loaded clutches and thermal breakers built in. They are designed to Not break because of a malfunctioning door lock, or what the actualtor may consider to be malfunctioning. Just instal them and stop overthinking this. It's not complicated, just don't lock the doors unless the doors are shut. Are you doing a keyless entry/remote system? The locks will only engage if the door is closed, no holding up the handle or anything else will allow it to lock. Just remember that the lock rod is thick compared to other makes and models and will need to ground down a little. This is the other thing I do for a living, trust me. Dave.

Everyone is hurting around here and charging for everything. guess I need to learn how to do it myself. There's another grand out of my pocket, Damnit. :bulb: ding ding ding, tell him what he's won. Like a pendulum on a grandfather clock. ROFL Guess it also depends on how hot it is outside too. I typically use Crystal Clear Hi-temp clear coat. Especially on any steel parts that were polished, then I relube everything mechanical. Thanks for the compliments guys, makes it a little more worth all the work.

click on this link and scroll down to post #16. It shows installed locks, to give you idea of how to do it. but you must shave the lock rod a little to allow it to fit in the locks attachment block (small block that attaches to the lock rod with 2 screws.) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20276&page=2 Also use the search button and type in " Power door locks" and you'll find plenty on the subject. Dave

Welding is for those in the KNOW, and I'm not on that list. I don't have aluminum welding experience and the local guy charges too much. The next set I do will be welded shut but I was in a hurry on this one. And " Mr. Ding Ding" is a sexual reference that we won't go into on this thread. hehehe!! mlc240Z... Thank you!! I could do better but I was in a hurry to get these on. Definately a BIG difference between the Triple Webers and the SU's. Instant power versus progressive power is really noticable. But at least it's not backfiring with every step on the pedal.

Actually, MSA has chosen to not sell the later 240Z-260Z-75' 280Z 9-pin PLH. They are real busy getting ready for the Zcar Show at the end of the month. They'll likely pick them up a while after the show is done. Remove your steering column cover and look at your combo switch connector. Is it a 6-pin (just like your ignition connector) or is it a 9-pin connector (small and square) If you have a 9-pin connector, write me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com and let me know there. The 9-pin PLH is $50 (inside the US) Thanks for the compliments, Dave

And that was the direction of my question in the first place. I don't know where I got these ones but they work fine so I ain't bitchin. Would be nice to find another set though. Hey Bruce, What is an SU SU? Roadster?

Well the wife calls me " MR. DING DING" Does that count? I just got in from installing them. Here's the shots. Just ignore the Choke cables, they were modified to work with my triple webers, now I need another set to replace these ones. Dave.

Well I finally finished the set for my 240Z. I have triples at the moment but they are so out of whack that I'd prefer the SU's over the Webers, just for tunability. I know my MPH will be better and these will look better until my 3 liter is done being built. I wet-sanded everything with 400 then 600 grit SP. Then went thru 2) 6" spiral sewn pads. I also tried to polish as much steel as possible. You'll notice, if you look close enough, that I replaced all the screws and bolts with Allen head screws in chrome and stainless steel. I just need to find a Hi RPM idle adjustment plate and pushball for the throttle attachment on the Ballance tube and then they go on. Can't wait. Dave.

Your best bet would be NGK Blue spark plug wires. I have the Unilite, MSD 6AL, Promaster coil and NGK plugs. The NGK wires seem to be the best I've used thus far. Dave

And now you know why we stress on actually pulling the fuses and testing them, as well as cleaning the terminals. Glad you figured it out. Dave.

You did. it was in the Fuel tank thread. http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/1974%20260z%20FSM.zip CALI260Z....... Save the above link to your computer or put it in your Favorites for easy reference. Also save the diagram below. If you email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com I'll send you everything I have on 260Z's

then maybe a 60 or 65 series 225? Instead of the 50. Not real sure how the whole height and width thing works yet.

and here's the video. http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/04/05/automobiles/collectibles/20090405-ego/index.html

My absolute favorite has always been the 16 X 7 wheel with 225/50R16's They fill the wheel well beautifully, nice ride, not harsh on the bumps at all, wider footprint on the road for traction and best of all, LOTS of options when it comes to different tires on a 16x7 rim. Just my $.02 worth. Dave. The pics below show how it looks and fills the wells.

Checking the fuse box visually is not a great method. Pulling the fuses one at a time and testing them on an ohms meter is the Best way. Disconnect the battery and and use a small wire brush on the fuse clips. It's an old car and anything like this is preventive maintanance. Also check your connectors on the passenger side kick panel, up under the dash. As well as the fusable links on the firewall. DAve.

Well in that case, I used them to cover the cut ends of the bumper. I'd love to lose them and cap off the bumper ends and have them rechromed, but that's a whole different story. On the rear, I'd love to have one of those full chrome bumpers with no holes or rubber. I LOVE CHROME!!!!