Zs-ondabrain

You did. it was in the Fuel tank thread. http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/1974%20260z%20FSM.zip CALI260Z....... Save the above link to your computer or put it in your Favorites for easy reference. Also save the diagram below. If you email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com I'll send you everything I have on 260Z's

then maybe a 60 or 65 series 225? Instead of the 50. Not real sure how the whole height and width thing works yet.

and here's the video. http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/04/05/automobiles/collectibles/20090405-ego/index.html

My absolute favorite has always been the 16 X 7 wheel with 225/50R16's They fill the wheel well beautifully, nice ride, not harsh on the bumps at all, wider footprint on the road for traction and best of all, LOTS of options when it comes to different tires on a 16x7 rim. Just my $.02 worth. Dave. The pics below show how it looks and fills the wells.

Checking the fuse box visually is not a great method. Pulling the fuses one at a time and testing them on an ohms meter is the Best way. Disconnect the battery and and use a small wire brush on the fuse clips. It's an old car and anything like this is preventive maintanance. Also check your connectors on the passenger side kick panel, up under the dash. As well as the fusable links on the firewall. DAve.

Well in that case, I used them to cover the cut ends of the bumper. I'd love to lose them and cap off the bumper ends and have them rechromed, but that's a whole different story. On the rear, I'd love to have one of those full chrome bumpers with no holes or rubber. I LOVE CHROME!!!!

Typically, the door Handles come with the rubber seals. I've never seen them seperate of the handles.

Pardon my ignorance but what is an "Overfender"? I made the Aluminum grill and the side bumpers were what was left after someone hit me. I always liked the old 70-1/2' Camaro Nerf bumpers and made a set of my own.

Mines a little different due to being hit in the front end so many times. 3 hoods and 2 grills later, as well as the split bumpers.

I was told to figure in a 30 HP loss, from the flywheel to the rear wheels. When I had mine Dyno'd for the Forza Motorsport 2 Game on XBOX 360, my stock 2.4 liter block, E88 head w/ stage 2 cam (477/280) 6-into-1 header, dual SU's (untuned) ZX dizzy, 5-speed tranny and 2.5" exhaust had a total of 135 RWHP and 133 Ft lbs torque. So I basically had about 165 HP at the flywheel with a few mods. But now that I have Triple Webers, Mallory Unilite Dizzy, MSD 6AL, Promaster 65kv coil and an R200 diff, that has been increased to almost 180 at the flywheel. I have an F54 turbo block being built in Oregon that has been promised to put out over 210 HP. It'll have a 40 over bore, stage 2 cam in the N42 head that'll be ported and polished with bigger valves, rebuilt SU's with better needles and valves, 6-into-1 ceramic coated header and 2.5" exhaust. Same unilite, MSD and promaster coil. The crank and flywheel will be ballanced and the Flywheel will be lightened to about 16 lbs. Hope that gives you a little better insite. Dave

What color is the wire BEFORE the butt connector? What year is the Z? Is there a wire on the Oil pressure switch on the block? Behind your hand.

Good job Gary, looks clean, with very little scuffing or cut marks. I went with the Urethane for the 260Z and did a few pics in my gallory right after. Stunk up the whole garage when I burnt them out. Toni and Steve were at Golden Gardens, you missed a Beautiful day with a couple very nice S30's. See you at Canby?? Dave.

It was a good surprise seeing you and Toni there. Glad you were able to the upgrades in and like the results. Most people do. With any luck, we'll see you and or Toni at Canby, hopefully we can get rid of the kids for the day. Dave.

Here's a couple pics for ya, cause they're related to the subject.. Couple Power window shots, power door locks, rear hatch pop, power window switch in center console, and Cold Cathode tube under the dash (computer tower lights, 12volts and only 0.5 amps!!) Dave.

Then maybe it Does have internal relays. My 260Z will have.... Shaved door handles with 35 lb actuators Flat hidden push buttons on each door (to open them) Shaved hatch lock with 15 lb popper Electric hood pop with Linear actuators to lift it. Spal power windows full alarm with auto start (custom choke system for the S.U's and nuetral safety switch) Custom Dash with a Pioneer double din AVIC-F900BT Touch-screen (DVD/CD/XM/AM/FM/Ipod/SD) Custom Door pods Kick panel pods 2) 10" JL Audio subs in a Custom Spare tire well enclosure -OR- Corner enclosures Strut tower pods for the 4x6's 1) 4ch amp for the 6 or 8 speakers and 1) Mono amp for the subs LED taillights and front marker lights and custom "Z" sidemarkers LED interior lighting Autometer white face gauges w/ LED illumination Rebuilt motor and 4-speed trans with short shifter R-200 LSD Full Energy SUspension Urethane kit KYB struts and Eibach PR springs TC kit and 25mm front w/19mm rear sway bars XENON urethane front spoiler New seats, carpet kit, and Paint. It's obviously taking longer than planned but business has been good and I've had no time to work on it. Not sure on the tires and wheels though, probably 17x9s with 245/45 or 40's. Dave

All depends on how you want it to operate. If you want the doors to open seperately, like most people do, then you'll want one relay for each door. And you'll obviously want the hatch to pop seperate of the doors, so there's another relay. I'm guessing (by doing a little research) that the unit you have does not have built in relays. If this is true, then you will definately need those relays. The rear hatch IS a P.I.T.A. and some enginuity on your part is definately a requirement. Here's a thread I did a while ago about what I did in my own Z's http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32047 Just follow the directions that came with the "Shaved" kit and you should be fine. I personally use 12 gauge power wire to the relays, a 12 gauge ground wire and good solid connections. Don't forget to attach the "Outside switch" into the system, just in case you ever lose the remotes or the batteries die. I'll be putting mine in the upper firewall area, aimed for inside the wheel-well of the front left tire. (out of site, out of mine) As for (+ or -) if I remember correctly, the poppers don't care about polarity, power makes them pull. Dave.

Good luck on the hatch. But yes, I've done these a few times. Just make sure to use relays if the kit did'nt come with them. Use no less than 16 gauge wiring and plastic grommets thru the sheet metal of the body and doors. I personally use SPAL Power windows and door pop units. Dave