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Zs-ondabrain

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Everything posted by Zs-ondabrain

  1. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Glad you're happy with the Product. Told ya it was easy. Dave
  2. It's basically the same for most S30's. I don't know what's wrong with your Parking light circuit but if they don't work, check the fuse (3rd fuse down on the right) with and actual test light. Also test the green/white and green/blue wires at the combo switch. If you have power at the switch, flip the switch to the first click and see if there is output on the other wire.. PM sent in 3 minutes. Dave
  3. Have you considered a Cooling agent in the radiator? Red Line makes a product called "Water Wetter". look into it.
  4. If you run 17x9.5 (-19) in the rear, AND you wanna lower the cr, you'll need to cut the Wheel wells and use the fender flares. Even with a severely stretched 215/50 tire, you will rub without cutting the wheel well. You'll need to roll the fender lips and possibly have to cut some of the front fender to keep from rubbing or hitting when turning. I just has 275/40ZR17's on 17x9.5 Rota RB's (-19) in the rear with Eibach Lowering springs on my 70'240Z and it rubs with ANY weight on the car. 17x8" -13 on the front with 245/45ZR17 on the front WILL rub the air Dam and fender with any turn. The fender needed to be rolled and the Air dam trimmed about 5" down from where it connects to the fender. (Xenon Urethane air dam) If I were you, and wanted to lower the car with wide tires, I'd go with a ??? 235/45 or 40 on 17x9" -13 with minimal cutting, rolling and use of Fender flares. That's just off the top of my head and I could be way off but it sounds right. Check this out when you get a chance, to show ya what putting wider tires and wheels on a lowered Z involves... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3195135/1974-datsun-260z/page-4 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3195135/1974-datsun-260z/page-14 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3195135/1974-datsun-260z/page-15
  5. You Know You Have An Older Car When ..... You have to explain to your passengers how the seatbelts work, or why they "Aren't retractable" You can determine how much fuel is in the tank by the degree of smell inside the car. You tell the Valet "That's OK, I'll park it myself" cause NOBODY else is driving her around back!!! You get told on a constant basis "Ya just don't see these on the road anymore" and you're thinking to yourself "Yes I do, every time I drive it"
  6. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Mine squeaks as well but it's the Plastic of the Column cover, rubbing on the adaptor hub of my GT steering wheel. So I need to either remove a little material or grease it a little. Clutch pedal squeaks too. Always something to do, but it keeps me out of trouble, Dave
  7. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    The Links aren't working on the review pages and because of the blue background, it makes it very hard to even read the page without Highlighting everything first. RCB280Z, Thanks for the review. Glad you're happy with the results. This is the first time I've seen this thread. Thanks again.
  8. Great seeing everybody today. Thank you Bruce, I spoke with Dave and we worked it out. I sold 1 DZ-Start kit, a Parking light kit, a ZXP and Sidemarker kit but most importantly, handed out a lot of cards and Upgrade info packets. A BIG Thanks to that warm globe type thing that stuck around long enough for a great show with only a few drops of liquid sunshine during the whole event. Sure, it rained a little on the way home but was sunny when I got home to Marysville. Could have done without all the traffic jams on the way though. This guys going to bed. Dave
  9. rolled over 194,000 on the 70' on the way home from Canby (The Datsuns NW show) Sure, it's got some miles, but she's still a friggin blast to drive. Did 480 miles today.
  10. Don't worry about it Bruce. Not a big deal. It's probably better that I didn't get one. Using the 260Z tires and wheels, with a full tank of gas, passenger and all that crap for a booth would cause it to rub, all the way there. So I'm keeping the load light. Besides, I could have always called him, but just way too damn busy and it was more of a "Thought" than anything else. But thanks. The weather channel for Portland says clowdy in the AM but clears up and will be in the mid to high 60's, pefect Car event weather. Dave
  11. Me and Leah are leaving at 5:30, to try and be there before the 9am train leaves the station. Bringing some upgrades if anyone is interested. Never got a cal from DNW so I won't have a booth. Just come find me. See ya'll there. Dave (and Leah)
  12. Sounds like the diff mount fianlly gave under the pressure of holding up the car for a while. Courtesy carries them. You may wanna look into an R/T mount with the Bump stop options. Brian at http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html has them for $72 Shipped. It will sandwich your diff and stop it from moving up and down (causing the thump) "The differential on Z-cars is subject to a tremendous amount of torque when accelerating. The stock differential mount is from the bottom, so the rubber pulls, rather than compresses, as the front of the differential moves up during acceleration. Even with a stock engine, Datsun realized that the movement needed to be limited, so installed a strap to prevent the differential from moving too far up. With added power, the differential mount in the stock car is overstressed. Also, when changing to a stronger differential (such as an R200), the factory limiting strap will no longer fit." Both me and Arne have one with great results. Dave
  13. That's great news. But I guess I gotta ask, Why all the fab work. The 260Z is similar to the 280Z in structure I have a 79' 280ZX 5-speed in my 70' 240Z. It bolts right up to any L6 2.4, 2.6 or 2.8 liter L6 I can't remember what X-member I used but it was a Datsun one. The driveline was from a 72'? 240Z and the Clutch, pressure plate, TOB and slave cylinder were all off my 72' tranny parts. Different year S30's have varying lengths of Drivelines and I used a 72' to match up with my 280ZX R-200 (3:90 LSD) Diff. \I also had to widen the shifter hole in the body because the early 240Z's hole is further back for the series 1 4-speed. The cross members vary from tranny to tranny but they are typically swapable to make one tranny work in another car. So I guess I should ask, What fab work are you talking about? Was it making your own stuff or just modifying a few things? Color me interested. Maybe it's just the Phrase "Custom Fab" that's peaking my interest. Dave
  14. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Steve beat me to it but now you have 2 people saying the same thing. Dave
  15. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    When you turn on the turn signal, and you hear it clicking, and the rears are blinking, Have you checked the front turn signals to see if they are blinking??? I ask because the 240Z's blinker set up it split. The rear blinkers go thru the brakes as well, and the Dash indicators are on the same circuit (wires) as the Front blinkers. So if you don't have dash indicators when the turn signal is on, and you hear it clicking, then the fronts are not likely flashing either. So check the front blinkers to see if they too are flashing when the turn signal is on and the dash bulbs are not. Get it? If the turn signal switch was serviced by me a few years ago, I Warrenty my work and will repair them for free, just send them back to me with $8 to cover your return shipping. Dave
  16. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Very Nice Jim. Compliments it very well. Glad the info helped you out and that the wires were where they should be. Dave
  17. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Not totally sure what has been covered but here's an addendum to it. On the earlier models (70-71') the 2 wires in question should be located above the Hazard switch on the dash, not the center console. It's roughly near the Oil Pressure gauge, above it and towards the tach, on the dash harness. It's a bitch to reach if the dash is still in, but reachable. When you turn on your parking lights, you should find a positive signal at that green/white wire (the one coupled with the red wire) Connect the G/W and Red to a toggle switch. As per E's instructions, ADD a Relay out at the red wire in the front of the car. on any standard 4 or 5 pin 12vdc automotive relay. Red wire to pin 85 Ground wire to pin 86 (an 18 guage, short wire, grounded to the frame) A fused power wire from the battery or Starter bolt, same thing, to Pin 30. (I suggest a decent 12 guage wire with a 15 amp fuse, depends on the fog/driving lights) Connect both Positive wires from the New lights to pin 87 and Ground the fog/driving lights to a good known ground. This set-up will allow the lights to only work if the parking lights are on. The switch you hook up will allow you to operate the lights when the parking lights are on and when the parking lights are shut off, the added lights will also shut off, irregardless of the new switch position. DO NOT POWER THE NEW LIGHTS WITHOUT A RELAY!!!. You will melt the wiring and posibly damage the circuit, switch or fusebox. Dave
  18. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    I typically run 225/50ZR16's from Rykon. They have a great price, sticky as hell and great for regular driving or even Spirited driving. They are damn close to the original or Correct height so your Speedo will stay true and correct. As for Slalom Racing and Auto-X. a 40 series may be better for less sidewall bending and better stability under hard cornering. The Rykon's are also great in the rain and not noisy at all. I would also suggest Siping them for added traction. Got an LSD? Dave
  19. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Funnybone
    Nice one Terrance. And are you running 55/65's, 90/100's or HID's?? That may help in the decision of of whether the light can break thru the speed barrier. or maybe not, Dave
  20. Zs-ondabrain posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    The Hazards were not built as a precise Unit. The damn contacts get out of alignment and the turn siganl wires go thru the Hazard switch. Here in lies the problem. The case is made of a Pot metal that easily breaks if you try to bent the tabs to get into it and clean the contacts. So if you're careful, and don't mind using an epoxy on it if you break a tab or 2 (bend as few as possible) then rebuild it. Use Acetone to clean the old grease off where the slide slips along the contact, use a dremel with mini wire wheel to clean all the contact points, regrease with a trace amount of dielectric grease where the slides slide and put it back together. Dave
  21. Made them all. Copied the kick panel plate, thensuspended the speaker frame with back straps (metal) then wrapped in Fleece and fiberglass resined it. Vualla... Kick pods. Dave
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