Zs-ondabrain

And there is also this company, I use them a lot. http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/connectors.htm Dave.

It's in Canby Oregon, June 13th and 14th at the fairgrounds in Canby. Not that far away from Portland. Lot's of CZCC members try and attend each year. Great place for a meet and greet, once a year. Dave.

It's been on hold for about a month and a half. Too cold and too busy to find time. I really want it done by June. We'll see.

That's an easy one. 240Z with a 79' or 80' 280ZX 5 speed and an R200 diff. 3:90 is a good all around diff with that rear end.

I love Smokey and the Bandit as much as the next guy, but what's the relevance? Beside the "Dem new Japanese sports cars'

Are you the same "FordLover" that sold me that MSD 6A on Ebay, less than a year ago?

Of coarse we remember you. How ya been? Good to hear ya staggard back into the site. Are ya gonna try and make it to Canby this year? Welcome back and hope all is well again, Dave. Marysville, WA.

WOW, Who pissed in your Cheerios this morning? Lucky for you that I'm not a vegitarian, or I'd have to chew ya up. It's called a "Dead End Road" in an undeveloped part of town. Nobody around, nobody can hear ya scream and nobody's around to Care. So relax. Go for a drive or a Walk about, Seems to work for me. Stop being so damn serious. Like my mom always says, "If you don't like it, don't look" "If it offends you, you've probably done the same thing to someone else" Get over it and change the channel. Have a nice day. :cheeky: Dave.

Yah, but at least he's using the NGK wires and plugs.

The most fun of doing that is the tear down, you get to see, fix and replace each part as it comes off the car. It also gioves you a better idea of the Previous Owner and what the car went thru, as a Whole. More fun to take a complete car apart.

Keep in mind that this was almost 3 years ago and I had very UNTUNED SU's, ZX dizzy, no MSD, no Mallory Unilite or Promaster coil and no muffler (for sound purposes) and still has the 4 speed and R180. The Dyno shows about 135HP at the rear wheels. And you can see the Air/fuel ratio DROP as soon the pedal was dropped. I now have a muffler, MSD 6AL, Unilite, Promaster coil, Triple Weber 40DCOE's and a 5-speed with a 3:90 R200. An easy (in my mind?) 40'ish HP more? I really need to reDyno this thing for some up to date numbers. Dave

In your Z??? That would be awesome. And it's funny you should mention Portland. Me and Leah are traveling to Hillsboro to drop off the carbs I just posted about on Someones engine bay refresh thread, then off to Salem to the New "JOHNNY Z MOTORSPORTS" Or maybe you could meet us there in the Afternoon?? And this invite goes out to ALL in the area (This Saturday around 2 or 3pm) We're leaving here (Marysville, Wa.) on Saturday Morning at about 7am. We should be around Portland around 10:30am or so. Meet ya at an I-5 location? Check your PM for my Phone number. Call me if you're available for us to take an exit, meet and greet, before we head for Hillsboro. Dave. Johnny Z Motorsports 1440 13th St. SE Salem, OR. 97302

NICE!! I just did the same similar thing to a friend/customers carbs. Complete tear down, shaved the ballance tube, then bead blasted (Glass) for a smooth consistant finish. I reused all the hardware but what ever had too much corrosion got Blasted with aluminum oxide and then wire wheeled and clear coated. These things were a fricken dissaster. Yours looks great, good work. Dave.

I've got lots of extra harness for the taillights. If you still need a 3 wire socket, I'm sure I could find one for you with ease. Thanks for the compliments, I try to do Every switch as if it were going to be installed into my own Z. Glad you like 'em. Dave.

Spend the extra money on a complete car. Starting with a shell, rolling or not, will cost ya big time, to get road worthy. You'll find they start around $1000 for a decent shape one. Look for rust on the frame rails, battery tray,behind the front wheels where the frame and body roll under the car, floor boards and doglegs (just behind the doors and forward of the rear wheels) Find one with as little rust as possible in those areas, the rest is easy. The motors are a breeze to work on, parts are a 50/50 deal. Some are readily available, some are pretty rare, but out there somewhere. Get it running right, then worry about the interior and body. Good luck and welcome to one of the Best sites for your future investment. Dave.

As almost all you know.... Dave Irwin, 37, 1-wife, 5-kids, 1) 70' 240Z, 1) 74' 260Z, 1) dog -Red Heeler, Home based business Owner making 240Z electrical upgrades and living in Marysville, Washington. Honorary? Member of about 8) Z car clubs, as I supply most of their upgrades and recieve stickers, shirts, memberships and such as a result. We try to make it to Canby every year. And seriously hope to bring the 260Z down this year, if I finish it in time. *Pray for no rain* Dave.

Round top S.U. Carbs are from the 240Z's. The 260Z's typically came with a "Flat top Carb which is huge, bulky and difficult to keep tuned and rebuild. The Round top S.U's are easy, built for performance, not emmisions like the flat tops. NO such thing as a stupid question around here, especially if you need an answer about the Z car. I personally run 225/50ZX16's on 16" X 7.5" Aluminum Alloys. That's almost pushing it but I pounded the fender lips (on the inside) to roll them a little and the wheel travels beautifully with no rubbing, And my Z is lowered 1.5"s all around. You can also run a 17" X 8"?? with a 40 series tire. You might rub a little but most who run that size have converted to the adjustable springs, As they are a smaller diameter and gives a little more clearance for wide tires. I, as well as hundred of others, run the 85' Toyota 4X4m, nonvented rotor, 4-piston Calipers. They bolt right on!! And the Raybestos brand come Loaded with decent pads for everyday driving. They run about $75 each side and readily available. But you need at least 15" wheels to start with. Even Baer? makes a complte set-up for about $1500 to start. 4.) Seat belts. My father-in-law removed the fixed shoulder belt thirty years ago and drove with just a lap belt (he raced Corvettes in the late '50's with a lap belt so it felt natural). I'd like to retrofit retractable 3-point belts into the car as soon as possible. Ideas on this? Thanks for the help. I'll need plenty. MSA does carry the seat belt kit you need. They also have all the 240Z Electrical upgrades to bring your 240Z into the 21st Century. They sell My Headlight upgrade harness, Parking light upgrade harness, ZXP (280ZX alternator upgrade adaptor plug and the Sidemarker Conversion plugs that turn your front sidemarkers into marker/turn signals, for safety and that "Cool Euro" effect. Welcome to the club.. Dave.

OK, maybe not quite like his but you get the idea. That burn out was started in 2nd gear, on a dry road. If I had a puddle, I could have started in 2nd and went third. My Z, with that 3:90 and ZX 5-speed will do over 100MPH in 3rd. That's a whole lotta smoke. Don't let the video fool ya, I don't do Burn-outs all the time. I had just got done with the FORZA motorsport 2 Dyno run and was syched about the new exhaust and my Z's exhaust sound bites being in the game. I basically got excited and fealt the need to show off a little. Now I just need to teach Leah to stop the camera After the burn out. When I uploaded the Video here, I wasn't aware that it would it would be introduced as a thread. Kinda cool though. Dave.

TOXIC, Very Supportive!! Gary, Like the Title says, "Just for fun" Nough said. rdefabri, All stock on the bottom end, Triple Weber 40DCOE's, Ceramic Coated 6into1 Header, 480/280 'ish stage 2 cam, Mallory Unilite Dizzy, Mallory Promaster Coil, MSD 6AL, 2.5" exhaust and a turbo Muffler. 3:90 R200 diff w/ CV's from a 280ZX turbo, 79' ZX 5-speed. Luv24ds, I could do a burn out like the 455 if I had a puddle to start with as well, ya know? 280~MASTER, That was 2nd gear and no shifting on that run. I was still rolling forward when I put it in reverse, that's what you heard near the end, no gaurd rails but there was a big ditch on that side. Sheriff was too slow to respond, as usual, so try again later. hehehe

70´ 240Z burn-out just for fun Couldn´t help myself and the wife forgot to stop the camera after the burn-out. Enjoy, I did.... English LINK

Picture #1 My 70' and I think that's the Original, I could be wrong The red bolts are 1/8" longer than stock because the stock screws kept trying to strip when tightened down. Picture #2 My 2/74 but the Round top conversion was done so it may be from another Z? Not sure as I don't know the whole history of either car and their P.O's Dave

Try this. http://www.racetep.com/webdiag.html There are expolded diagrams of the 151's and 152's

Before I could help with that, What style of 40DCOE's do you have. I have 151's but I'll almost bet you don't. On the top lip facing the air cleaners, there should be a model no. What are yours?

What's that Brite stuff on the ground? It looks like sun but I haven't seen anything like that for months..... Anyways. Yup, that's a late 260Z early to late 280Z spoiler. You're supposed to have a 240Z spoiler and lower marker lights like mine. Easy fix would be to buy the correct spoiler and new or used (more likely) lower lights. Couple hundred for the spoiler and lights together. Those ARE black connectors under the red paint. Read your PM after I'm done with this post. SHow us some good pics of the triples, intake, throttle linkage and what ever else he sent with the car. You'll need the full set of triples, Cannon or similar intake manifold, Correct throttle linkage, your 260Z came with a electric and manual fuel pump (unless the PO messed with it, so you're good to go there. You'll need to make or set up a fuel delivery hose system and hopefully the triples came with the correct fittings (2 "T" fittings and a single fitting) or 3) "T"s. Lets see what you got before we go too specific. Dave

I hope to have the 260Z done by then and possible find a way to get them both down there. We'll see. Dave