Zs-ondabrain

Actually, Black is now More common as red is almost a special order item. When trying to buy all my Poly bushings for the 260Z, I wanted to go with red (as most of my offset colors on the under side are red) but found that if I wanted red, I'd have to go thru Energy Suspension or some other special retailer. The black, graphite impregnated bushing are better all around. They look stock, last longer (because of the graphite) and are actually stronger than red. It was explained to me that the red coloring process makes the Urethane weaker than the black, which is a more natural material? Or something like that. EVERYTHING is getting Urethane in the 260Z. I just want all the hard work to last and not have to be readjusted every year do to wear and tare. Don't get me wrong, rubber works and can last for years, but the rubber I removed from the 260Z was Trashed and should have been replaced 20 years ago. Mikemerkury, I forgot to mention the Sway bar bushing in my previous post. They are very easy to swap and a great place to start. The rubber factory doughnut bushings (on the end links) tend to split, tear and make the front end sloppy. It's as easy as buying new end links and poly bushings, that come with 2 new grade 8 bolts, nylon lock nuts and new washers. The stock ones tend to rust and deteriate and can "Snap" or bend if put under too much tension. If you stick with the stock size sway bar in the front, the body mount bushing is easily replaced. If you go with a larger bar, make sure you order the larger bushings and new body mount brackets. The larger bars urethane will not fit in the stock bracket. I did'nt take pictures of every upgrade so make sure you take plenty of before and after pics, both for us and your personal folder. You'll love showing off the end results of "Before and After" Dave. Here's a couple before and afters and the new 25mm front bar. just for your viewing pleasure.

The rear inner control arm bushings are a breeze to put in, as are the Ball joint and tie rod end boots, as long as your installing new ones. 2 minutes, tops. The mustache bar bushings are more involved. You need or want to burn out the old rubber and center sleeve, then use a dremmel with a drum sander to clean the remaining rubber out. Them use the Mfg Urethane lube before installing the urethane. This ones a pain because you tend to get an air pocket in there and they try to push back out. Urethane first, then the new metal sleeve. Half hour to 1 hour. DO NOT cut the large metal sleeve from the mustache bar. Outer control arm bushings in the rear are a pain in the a$$. First, burn out the rubber or the center sleeve then the rubber can be almost cut out. Then use a hack saw or saws all to cut the outer metal sleeve in 2 places, out 1/2" apart from each other. use a flat head screw driver to ply the sleave away from the metal of the control arm and seperate it from the body. Then clean it and prep it for the urethane grease. Similar to the picture of the front control arm below. Same thing for the front inner control arms but pay attention to which side is long and short, Take a picture that you can refer to when installing the urethane bushings. Don't forget to use a thin film of the supplied lube on every urethane to metal surface. The Steering coupler is only a couple bolts. no grease needed. Front strut rod bushing easy enough. but unless you're racing, you might wanna stick with rubber on this one. They typically just need to be retightened a little to remove the slop. Steering rack bushings are fairly easy as long as the motor is away from the front crossmember or vice-versa. The only problem I had with them was the Squared edge of the urethane bushing into a round edge seat. You'll see what I mean. I believe the one on the gear-set side (drivers side) is the problem child. Hope this helps. You can also check out the rebuild pics of my 260Z on cardomain, link is below, in my signiture. Also, either replace or clean and regrease the front strut bearing that sits between the upper spring perch and the mount. You'll thank me later. Dave.

It's probably better to put in a new one. They also slow "Spikes" in the system, which we all know Can hurt our old Z's compoments. Even some new alternators come with them already installed. Dave.

It will, and you'll eliminate the "Slosh" of worn rubber bushings

Turn up the fuel just a tad. From what I understand (and could be wrong) Backfiring around that RPM is a result of Lack of Fuel. Check w/ Z Theropy and see if they say the same thing or not. My triples did it all the time till I gave just a smidge more fuel to 'em. Dave.

That would depend on the rest of the components in the system. What combo are you going with for your suspension?? Struts? Springs? Tires? Wheels? I ask because I have Urethane all around and 225/50ZR16's with KYB struts and Eibach Springs. My ride is great, not too harsh, not too hard. Taller sidewalls will be even softer. Dave.

Somebody hasn't been paying attention. We've done plenty of articles, posts and writeups about replacing the clock with a quarts clock that runs on a "AA" battery. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7817 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29123 There's many more write up's on the subject, just use the search and type ( AA Clock ) Some think it's a bad (not a true replacement) idea but many have done the swap (me included) and have been happy with the results. Dave

Glad to help, That's one of the reasons we're here. Dave.

Most modern day stereo's use the yellow battery wire to power the internal amplifier. It's most likely sucking way too much power from that clock fuse. Either run a fused wire from the battery or find an empty spot on the fuseblock. I personally ran a new power wire from the battery to the yellow wire. Disconnect that wire from the clocks power and leave it that way, start the car and see if the fuse blows again. Or better yet, COMPLETELY disconnect the stereo, start the car, get the gauges to work, then reconnect the stereo, one wire at a time. When the gauges stop working, the wire you just hooked up is the culprit. Dave.

I don't believe the ZX motor is a direct bolt in and the reason most have chosen to use the 91' and up motor is because it's still 10 years younger than the ZX motor and with my relay set-up, will "Park" Dave.

Post number 50 states the correct pin number and it is #86 Click on the BMP image under the pictures in post #1, it shows the correct drawing and wiring. Here is the correct wiring as well 70' Datsun 240Z __________________ 91' Honda civic wiper motor blue/white-------pin 86 ________ Pin 87A-------blue/white blue-------------pin 87 ________ pin 30--------blue Blue/red-----------pin 85-------pin 85----------green/black Black----------------------to------------------black Blue/yellow----------------to-------------------blue/yellow Hope this ends all the confusion. Dave.

Start checking all your grounds. And check the connections at the switches, in the steering column area. The headlights and parking lights are 2 seperate systems so that tells me it's a supply or ground issue. Dave. One other thing, your post will be read. but it's not a good idea to ask the same question in multiple threads. Just FYI.

That was to be my next suggestion, as I've dealt with that scenario as well. The tube on the nut comes too far up and snags the metal lip, causing the latch to be "Super sensitive" and open prematurely. Just remember that is you are going to lube the latch assembly, try using some brake cleaner on it first, to remove the old grease. Put a towel under the assembly, (cause it's a bitch to pull the assembly and do this) Spray it with the brake cleaner, as dust, dirt and gunk collect on the existing grease. Spraying new grease over the old only clogs it up faster. So clean it then relube with a white lithium spray. If you want to eliminate some of the door slamming, Loosen the 3) 10mm bolts on the catch (on the body) and move it outward about 1/16" then retighten. It may not seem like much but that little bit should keep you from damaging the latch any farther, by slamming the door to make up for the extra thickness of the new door seal. Dave.

So what is it that you're not happy with? The ride itself? Cornering? rubbing? specifics are a must around here.

Once again, The yellow wire is part of the intermittent system. Ignore it. That wire is present on a lot of 72's and 73's even though the wiper may only be a 2 speed without int. wiper set-up. Dave.

Pull the door panel off and look over at the latch assembly. You'll find a white plastic adjuster nut with a sleeve on it that goes thru the latch assembly. Loosen it a few turns by turning it counter-clockwise. Or UP the rod, away from the metal tab that it goes thru. It sounds like there is too much tension there and the tweeking of the door under turns is popping the latch. Let me know if that is the case. Dave

By the way, here's some crapy pics of the printed version, layed out on the bed. You can see the daily items to use for reference. Dave.

I Have a FULL Diagram for the 260Z GIF but it's way too big for me to post here. If you email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com I'll send it directly to you. I got it from a guy a HybridZ. I went thru the entire thing and straightened every single line and item on the diagram. The first Original is 6913 X 2670 and the reworked diagram is Half that at 3456 X 1335. Way to big to post here. I took it to the local print shop and the gal there printed it into the four sections on 2 foot by 3 foot pages. So in total, the larger diagram prints out at 8 feet long by 3 feet tall. Once again, this is for a 260Z but most of it should work for an early 75' 280Z. But here's a PDF of a 75' 280Z that should get you going..... Dave. 75 280Z wiring diagram.pdf

You can, however, relocate to your own liking. I'm doing something similar to the 260Z during the rebuild this winter. I'm turning my heater controls back into 240Z styles to lose the white vaccum bottle, relocating the fusable binks to the firewall and using a gold plated solid brass fuseholder/distribution block in its place. The A/C is already out and the relay and associated parts are being removed and or bypassed. And the whole engine harness is being reworked to remove un-needed wires and connectors.

That's a stock set-up for the 260Z (early) The paper filter cartridge is still in the fuel pump but I guess that's Nissans way of PreFiltering before the pump, since most people don't even know there is a filter Inside the pump. The filters are basically the same price but easier to to replace the white plastic one. Go figure. Dave. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209181&parttype=6200&a=FRc1209181k479057

Yup, I just rebuilt and finished mine a few weeks ago. It was all tangled and bent (previous owner issue) The black color makes the picture blend but I hope these help. Dave. The last 3 pics are obviously the before pictures...

on a 240Z, you bypass the Ballast resistor. But if the tach is jumping around on a 240Z after that process, the tach is probably bad. If you have the 3 pole ballast resistor, run a jumper on the end bolts, not the middle one. if the tach still jumps around, you might need another one. FWIW, Dave.

Fender mirrors are great for that "JDM look" but I've never found them to be very usefull. Objects in the mirror are much smaller when it's so far from the viewer (you) As for grinding, you can use a hand held like you mentioned but a dremmel can also be used with better precision. You might be able to see a better idea of what I'm talking about. Start at the bottom and come out a little in a wedge shape as you tape upward. Dave. right side mirror grind.bmp

So is it to stay a mystery or are you gonna let us in on it. Is he making enough for sale or just one for himself? ????

They only made the left side mirror. But, I too purchased an extra left side and "Flipped" it. The only problem with it is you have to shave the upper part of the mounting foot to correct the angle on which it sits. The left side mirror has a slite (maybe 5 degree) angle, when you put it on the other side, that 5 degrees turns into 10 degress and the mirror sits outward, or away from the door. Use a peice of tape to mark your line with about 1/8" to be ground off the upper part. Degressing down to 0" at the bottom part. You'll basically shave a wedge shape off. Then Twist the mirror 180* while holding the neck of the mirror. You can see in the below pics that the angle looks the same on both sides after the shaving. Most people Never notice mine because they never think to look for a right side mirror, and they blend so well . Dave.