Zs-ondabrain

Now that the brakes don't come on permanantly, try the turn signals. If the turn signals work and the brakes don't, the problem could be in the Metal turn signal switch. They warp over time and overheating can also cause the warping. Expose the T/S switch, press on the brakes while connecting the green/yellow and white/red wire on that metal switch box. If the brakes work, then the metal box is the problem. Let us know what you find. Dave.

I was just thinking and had the same issue years ago..... Turned out to be the Coil. It could build up slowly with a little peddle but if I floored it, it would drop on its face around 4K. I swapped the Coil and never had the problem again. Try it. Dave.

Just for fun, Use a few strips of duct tape on those areas, press it down evenly and remove it quickly, like a band-aid. The paint should come off with ease. Follow the wires coming out of it and see where they go. I've never seen that either.

Ok, Here's my take on it. Take it for what it's worth.. I looked at the pictures and the headlight switch wiring looks to be correct, as is the T/S switch. The third picture is your horn relay so don't worry about that. I would suggest this.... Remove all of the rear taillight bulbs Make sure all of the single wire sockets have only 1156 bulbs. Make sure there is minimal or No corrosion (use dielectric grease on each and every bulb in the Z. Make sure only 1157 bulbs are in the 2 wire sockets. If only one of those 1157's are twisted wrong or forced in incorrectly, there will be issues, Like brakes coming on with the parking lights. The parking lights have nothing to do with the brake lights, so to speak. The combo switch controls the parking lights. The brake switch (on the pedal) and the T/S switch, control the brake lights. The turn signal switch controls the brake lights as well as the turn signals and the both go to the Hazard switch. I would start with the bulbs in the back then check the hazard switch. ALSO!! Check the 2 center wires on the 6-wire metal switch on the T/S switch. They are green and green/yellow. Solid green is the wire from the flasher and the green/yellow is from the brake switch, if the solder has flowed and they are touching, you may get a constant brake light. But that would'nt explaint the ON with the Parking lights. Dave. P.S. If all else fails, Check each wire on the taillight harness's on each taillight. There may be a crossed wire inside the vinyl tubing, I've seen it happen and it will cause the problem you're having.

I did'nt have to go thru nearly what you did but I'm happy with the job I did myself. My 70' is exactly 993 before yours (HLS30-08077) And I could'nt ask for a better car (Z). Awesome job so far, I'm impressed and jealous. Dave.

Apparently, The only difference in the front strut assemblies on the 240Z and the 260Z is the lower spring perch. It sits one inch lower on the 260Z. So if I had 1/2" of slop on my 260Z when installing the Eibach PR springs, You would only need to compress your Eibach's 1/2 inch to install them on your 240Z. Nothing to worry about there. A stock early 260Z looks like this.. Thanks Clayton 260Z. And after using the Eibach PR springs, It looks like this... I hope mine looks this good when I'm done. Dave.

Thanks Carl, Great help as usual. After a few emails, describing in essence, the same thing, I've used my engineering brain (Self taught) to figure out that The stiffness of the aftermarket spring more than compensates the weight of the vehicle under normal loads. The preloaded, soft steel, stock spring was only able to do it's job after being compresed and keeps the full assembly tight when not under a load. I'll never plan on "Jumping the vehicle" and I'm installing the lowering Progressive rate springs because I like the feel and every once in a while, I like to hit the corners hard and come out level without bouncing down the road. I have the same set-up in my 70 and it rides like a limo (comfortably) but can out corner and manuver most Ricers when it wants to. I'm gonna stop stressing on this until I get everything on the car and it's rolling down the road, Hopefully to the Z Nationals (Anaheim) next spring. Or at least that's the plan. Thanks again guys. And hopefully this thread will help other people in the process. Not a total waste of time when you learn something. Dave.

I called MSA and spoke with one of the guys there, Garrett? I think. He said that the front's would go on without the use of a spring compressor and would have a little slop to them. You can see that there is about 1/2" of space between the top perch and the spring. I took the picture while tugging on the spring, letting gravity pull the strut assembly away from the spring. The other shows the full assembly just sitting there but the top bearing is resting on the top of the upper perch but still about 1/2" away from the top 3-bolt assembly. After the POR15 dries on the rear strut assembly (tomorrow) I'll load the old strut in (because I don't have the rear struts yet) and see how the spring looks. Dave

So I just opened the box from MSA and the Eibach pro Rate springs are WAY Shorter than stock. The 260Z springs are 15.5 inches tall (all 4, unmounted) The new Eibachs are..... Fronts.. (189710) (6303.001) is only 10.75" tall ( 4.75" shorter than stock Rears....(189712) (6303.002) is only 12.625" Tall ( 2-7/8" shorter than stock) Is this correct? Are the fronts springs supposed to be almost 5" shorter than stock? And if they are, how does this only drop the car 1" to 1.5" ????????? I'm don't want to install them until I hear from someone who has dealt with this before and can reassure that I'm not crazy. Please help before I get overambitious and instal them just to see. Dave.

Follow the instruction from Crane and Bypass the ballast resistor. If you haven't already, get a Fireball Coil or MSD Blaster 2 Coil. The OEM coil is set-up for use with a ballast resistor.

You might actually be on to something Arne. I like the whole Dark or flat black ZG flare thing. But you're right, the air dam needs to match the body.

I showed the wife the Monitor and she says "No, it doesn't work for me" I think the only time Yellow and Black look good together in colors (not pinstripes) is a yellow paint job with Satin Black racing stripes. I'm more of a solid color car guy but to each his own, if you like it, do it. Dave

And while we're at it, we'll Change the blinker fluid and grease the choke bearings. I just changed out the old Air in the tires for new air. WOW, what a difference. ROFL Anyways, I've NEVER seen springs compressed like the ones in the first post. Those are almost pointless as springs. I was a little miffed when Jon said "That's Normal" Normal if you have a car full of fat chicks after a damn big meal. I just ordered my Eibach P.R. springs from MSA along with the KYB front Struts. The sales man said the 280Z set-up is the one I need but I'm still not convinced considering The strut tubes (inner length) is only different by 1/8" from my 70' 240Z and the 2/74' 260Z. Does this sound right? The spring perch is 1" lower on the 260Z than the 240Z's spring perch. That would tell me 280Z springs but still confused about the front struts. 240Z front inner tube length is 15 1/16" 260Z front inner tube length is 15 3/16" 260Z Rear inner tube length is 16 13/16" All 4 springs on the 260Z are stock and 15.5" uncompressed. And it sits at a normal height. What is the height of the Eibach PR springs, when placed side by side with the 260Z springs? When I order the rear struts, should they be the 280Z KYB's? HELP Dave.

I do still offer them directly, but if sales jump and MSA wants to offer them exclusively, then Gary? and I will discuss an "Exclusivity Contract" for a flat fee. If they choose to just be another supplier of my harness's, them I will continue to offer them at my usual price. MSA gets the upgrades at a discount because they order in Bulk, in quantities of 10's and 20's. As a world-wide supplier of quality Datsun parts, they are able to reach a wider spectrum of customers than I would ever be able to reach by myself. I no longer supply in bulk to Datsun-Parts (AL) as his business practices are too shady for me to Morally deal with him on a business level. Dave.

Use the POR-15 as a base to not only stop rust but to prevent rust from happening. It's more of a preventive maintanence thing. I'm using it on everything rusty as well as clean metal, before paint and undercoating. Dave.

The Parkinglight upgrade harness is now available for all Z's that have either the 6-pin (Original design) and the 9-pin (square, white, small connector). If your Z's combo switch has a 9-wire 10-pin connector, you're out of luck. My PLH will work on all 240Z's, 260Z's and the early 280Z's The HLH (headlight upgrade harness) will work ONLY on 240Z's The ZXP is a 240Z only item The SCP is a 240Z only item They are all plug and play for their specific application. Dave.

Just take your steering knuckle with you to NAPA when the parts arrive. You can test fit them right there on the spot and won't need to measure it. Unless they are coming to your door. Then nevermind

YUP, that's me.... Please don't think of me as a "sell out" but the bills need to be paid. And Yes, I am now an official MSA Supplier. I'm tickled pink but nervous at the same time. If Sales pick-up as fast as we (Me and MSA) think they will, I won't have a single minute to myself, as I'll be building upgrades for the rest of the year, 24/7. Ya know? Here's a link to the New Winter Sale Flyer that should be at your doorsteps within the next few weeks. http://www.zcarparts.com/sale_10.htm

Exactly, And New cars like Cadillacs, Lincolns, Buicks and the such, come with 6 to 8 speakers, 400 to 500 watts from 2 seperate amps and usually have a dedicated Subwoofer, from the factory. And those cars are bought and driven by Elderly retired folks. I don't know what a Braille Battery is so I could'nt tell you if it'll fit next to a 2/3's spare tire enclosure. But here are the measurements... 26.25" across on top. 25.75 across in the middle. aprox 6.5" deep to the side of the tire mount (deepest point) My 2/3's enclosure is 15.25" wide which leaves 11" to spare on the side of the box. 2) 6 volt Yellow tops, wired in series, have a better chance of fitting there than any regular car battery.

Why don't you guys take a few good pictures of the connector in question, and I'll see what I can do about finding that particular one. As you probably already know, I'm pretty good with sourcing Datsun connectors and such. Pics please :classic: Dave P.S. The only thing Di-electric grease does, is protect the metal from the elements like water and air. Therefore slowing any possible oxidation and errosion. Coat your bulbs and sockets and terminals to proctect them but be aware that hi heat from too much amperage with eliminate the grease.

WOW. That's a lot of equipment in the back of your Z. I guess that's what I love about my set-up. The amps are behind the seat and out of the way, the subs are in the spare tire well and the rear speakers are in the stock location. The fronts are out of the way, in the doors and in kick pods and they NEVER get hit or kicked by me or the passenger, ever. And Tom, A Recording hall Never sounded as good as My Z. Period. And as for the whole "it should'nt be too loud in any car" crap I keep hearing from other people, That's hogwash. New cars are so damn sound-proof that you can't hear an ambulance right next to you. That's more dangerous than a volume knob that is easily turned down. I put a system into a Crazy 240Z that consisted of 3) 15" subs, 2) Huge 1000 watt amps, 4) 6x9's, 2) 6.5" and a head unit. The car Rocked but also sounded good at a low volume. He does'nt have room for a bass tube. Dave. 1) Now you see it 2) Now you don't 3) the previous box

Looks like I dodged the bullet on that one, My 240Z is an 8/70'