Zs-ondabrain

Exactly, And New cars like Cadillacs, Lincolns, Buicks and the such, come with 6 to 8 speakers, 400 to 500 watts from 2 seperate amps and usually have a dedicated Subwoofer, from the factory. And those cars are bought and driven by Elderly retired folks. I don't know what a Braille Battery is so I could'nt tell you if it'll fit next to a 2/3's spare tire enclosure. But here are the measurements... 26.25" across on top. 25.75 across in the middle. aprox 6.5" deep to the side of the tire mount (deepest point) My 2/3's enclosure is 15.25" wide which leaves 11" to spare on the side of the box. 2) 6 volt Yellow tops, wired in series, have a better chance of fitting there than any regular car battery.

Why don't you guys take a few good pictures of the connector in question, and I'll see what I can do about finding that particular one. As you probably already know, I'm pretty good with sourcing Datsun connectors and such. Pics please :classic: Dave P.S. The only thing Di-electric grease does, is protect the metal from the elements like water and air. Therefore slowing any possible oxidation and errosion. Coat your bulbs and sockets and terminals to proctect them but be aware that hi heat from too much amperage with eliminate the grease.

WOW. That's a lot of equipment in the back of your Z. I guess that's what I love about my set-up. The amps are behind the seat and out of the way, the subs are in the spare tire well and the rear speakers are in the stock location. The fronts are out of the way, in the doors and in kick pods and they NEVER get hit or kicked by me or the passenger, ever. And Tom, A Recording hall Never sounded as good as My Z. Period. And as for the whole "it should'nt be too loud in any car" crap I keep hearing from other people, That's hogwash. New cars are so damn sound-proof that you can't hear an ambulance right next to you. That's more dangerous than a volume knob that is easily turned down. I put a system into a Crazy 240Z that consisted of 3) 15" subs, 2) Huge 1000 watt amps, 4) 6x9's, 2) 6.5" and a head unit. The car Rocked but also sounded good at a low volume. He does'nt have room for a bass tube. Dave. 1) Now you see it 2) Now you don't 3) the previous box

Looks like I dodged the bullet on that one, My 240Z is an 8/70'

I got lucky on my 70' as it used the larger style ball joints, as do most Z's. But just like Arne said, if the ball joints are the smaller style, just swap out the steering knuckle for the later style. I only add to this forum cause I just dealt with this on my 74' 260Z.

Totally understandable but just remember that those 4" speakers will NEVER trully be "Full range" speakers and will blow up while trying to reproduce low end sounds. The small bass tube will fit behind your seat and give the proper low end that your ears require for a decent sound. Or just get some bigger speakers than 4". Totally up to you though, everybody is usally set in their ways and that's cool but don't expect your $5 goose to go laying golden eggs anytime soon. Dave.

Here's a link to a crossover chart.... http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp Just remember that HI PASS means that the hi's pass thru the Capacitor and block the lows. Low pass Coils allow lows to pass thru and block the hi's. So when the chart says to block frequencies below 100 Hz on a 4 Ohm speaker (like your 4" speakers, Tom) use a 397 uF capacitor to do that. Use Non Polarized caps (available at Radio Shack) and attach it inline with the (+) wire on the speaker. as the drawing shows here... http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross6db.asp Most amps will do this for you with the flip of a switch or turn of the dial. But for an Ampless system, this is the easiest way. The caps are only a few bucks and will save your little speakers. Dave

Tom, I use the internal cross-over in the head-unit as well as the on-board cross-over on the amp to control the frequency that the 4", 5 1/4" and 6.5" speakers get. That's the beauty of the Pioneer head units. They have speaker and subwoofer controls in the audio menu. I can turn the subs on or off, control their frequency and level and the internal cross-over allows me to determine the amount of lows that go into the small speakers. In your case, I would get a small 8" amplified bass tube for your Z. You run a small power wire to it then ground the unit as well. Then run a set of RCA's or speaker wires to it (from the head or directly from the speakers) for signal. This will give the system that "Low end" that it needs and that you've been trying to reproduce with your 4" speakers.Then you can install some non polarized capacitors (about 4.7 Uf or 47? can't really remember) onto the 4" speakers (+) wires and this will eliminate the lows from them. The bass tube has an internal cross over that will block out the hi's. The bass tubes usually have a "Quick disconnect" plug which will allow you to easily remove the tube when needed. So basically, the 4" speakers are for the hi's and the tube is for the lows. You can't rely on 4" or ANY small speaker to reproduce the low ends needed for a decent sounding system. As for your first question, on the roof..... Kinda like a San Francisco police car, "Pull Overrrrrr" I'll be doing a full picture type write-up on the install on the 260Z when I get to that point. As I've never done a 260Z stereo system, it should prove interesting and educational all at the same time. I'll be running new signal and speaker wires from the head unit to the rear in line with the OEM wiring. I'll also be running new antenna control wires, hatch pop wires, hatch pin (alarm) wires and anything else I think of between now and then. Dave. By the way, the less low end that the 4" speakers are trying to reproduce, the louder they will go without distorting.

I put 12 in there last night. I know John has at least 8? he can put in.

We'll call it 70/30 and don't worry, you are one of the "Cool Kids", after all, YOU DO OWN A 240Z. duh. Dave.