Zs-ondabrain

ya, most likely around 7am I figure my freeway time at 65MPH but we all know that everyone else is doing 70 to 75MPH, I'm doing 73 to 78 or better. I refuse to go the same speed as everyone else. Did ya wanna meet up somewhere or something? Just let me know at wolfin32z@yahoo.com

Anythin being drawn off the fusebox will show up on an amp meter and things that draw directly from the battery (like my upgrades) rarely show up on AMP and Volt meters. Make sure your fan is powered directly from the battery, via a Hi amp relay. If a typical relay is not strong enough, you can use a starter relay like those in older cars, just make sure it has a long duty cycle so it don't burn out. Dave.

Yes, Sunday, June 15th, on I-5 at the rest stop just south of exit 282A heading South on I-5 near Canby Oregon.

Fine, be that way. I'll just take my ball and go home now. But at least anyone else (Who've never been there) can use these great step by step instructions to meet us there or at least find their way if they miss us at the 9:30 roll out. Hope to see as many of you as possible. Dave.

Hey Jon, We meet at the rest stop in Oregon, immediately after exit 282A (about 1/4 past that exit) Just look for the rest stop sign. Figure it this way. It's 16 miles from the WA/OR border, I live off exit 200, that's 216 miles at an average of 65 MPH. That's 3.5 hours for me, so figure how long it takes you to get to my place and add 3.5 hours, Minus that from 9:30 am and that's when you should leave your house to meet us there in time. we'll be leaving at 6AM. Want to meet at Fred Meyers? Call me. If you're gonna be later than that, (WRITE THIS DOWN) Just take the next exit (about 2 miles) after the rest stop, Take exit 278 ( Ehlan Rd NE ) take a left onto Ehlan Rd NE, follow it East for under 2 miles to 1st St NE and take a left onto 1st St NE, go for about 400 feet then take a right onto Liberty St then left onto 99E. Go under 4 miles miles to town and take a left onto NE 4th Ave (over the tracks) and follow the signs that'll say something about "Driving Canby Fun" Follow that road to the left until you see a building on the right and take the next driveway into the parking are. Just mapquest Canby OR and follow my directions on that map. Call me if you're running late and call me when you take the left onto NE 4th AVE near the fairgrounds, I'll meet you at the gate. Late Arrivals almost always park to the left of the entry gate, on the grass across from the vendors. I can't get more descriptive than that. Dave.

Or more basically put, Don't push your luck. Don't expect your garden hose to handle the output of a pressure washer. It was built for 3 to 7 PSI, NOT 1200 PSI. See what I mean?? An increase of 20 amps is more than plenty for what ever you're running. I have a 70' 240Z with the 280ZX 60 amp alternator. I also have 90/100 H4 lights, 55 watt fog/driving lights, 800+ watt stereo system, power windows, power locks, full alarm system, DVD player, under dash monitor, Honda wiper motor, honda blower motor and some other goodies. And I can listen to the stereo with both subwoofers going, for over 2 hours, and still start the car afterwards with NO problems. And I've never had a power or lack of power issue. Never. Just make sure all of your power wires are up to spec, your grounds are godd-clean and tight,and all your connections are clean and tight. You don't want or need any more than 20amps over stock. JM2CW, Dave.

I'm all over that, I just have to make sure I tune her up before we head down. It's about a 300 mile trip for us, if I remember correctly. I'll just bring new plugs to instal before I hop on the dyno for the first time in 3 years. I still had the E12-80 and S.U.'s the last time we dyno'd. We were at 170 at the flywheel then, I hope the numbers are better this time. Who's going, chime in. Dave.

Looking good so far, guess it's time to change the avatar again. Hurry up Arne, Canby's aroung the corner. Dave.

Like I said and so did people in posts 2 / 3 / 10 / and 14, Check your connections. Glad you found it. Dave.

Hey Will, I forgot to ask if those silicone terminal boots ever came out ok or if you've had time to make any. I'm talking about the ones for the fusable link connectors on the starter, alternator and power terminals on the inside of the car at the start of the engine harness. If the price is right, I'll take 10 asap. Let me know. Dave.

Hey Arne, Can you make the whole list of build dates and numbers available on the combo switch thread that I'm doing (69' to 78'). The pictures help alot but if I had dates on paper to matches switches in cars, that would help a lot. Dave.

looks like ya figured it out. Dave

We're working on getting all the switches and their build dates documented here... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30640 Your best bet is to exchange pictures with the guy, and once you get the correct switch, document it on the link above. Dave.

That was an hour ago and I haven't recieved an email or PM as of yet. Maybe my email sees you as spam or something. Try again? Or PM me here at CZCC. Dave.

Have you tried them on your Z yet? If they fit and everything works as it's supposed to and your Z is a 72' then that's what I need. What's the build date if they do fit and work? Thanks man, Dave.

I dropped the price to $150. I cannot find a pair ANY where that comes close to how clean these are. Arne was right. The single row is for the parking light, and all 3 rows light up for the turn signal. I was really tired last night when I wrote up the AD so we'll chalk the rediculous price up to lack of sleep and too much work. I was just so happy with the finished product that I went overboard. The only problem with a "Do it Yourself" kit would be the "Mounting of the plates. I Use a soldering iron to melt a very small lip just over the plate, so that it'll not lift up, then I hot glue it in place. The iron provides a rougher surface for the glue to "hold" to. I'm sure I could come up with a metal mount that uses the OEM screw plates to hold the LED plates in place. I'll look into it. The other problem with a first timer rebuilding a set of lights is.... The screws almost always rust and strip the heads before they get the screw out. The rusted screws also break inside the lense and they're NOT coming out after that. The plastic also likes to break off the lense in the removal and replacement of screw. Then you need to find new screws if everything goes OK. Personally, I'd rather keep them and use them in the 260Z I just bought rather than sell them for the $150 asking price. I say this because trying to find another set, in this good of shape, with no cracks or broken screw issues, and then have to build another set of LED plates, will take more time and money than I can afford at this time. I need the money to get this 260Z on the road, as she needs alot of help. If I were to build these LED plates as one of "Dave's Upgrades" I don't think I could sell a set for any less than $90 a pair. So does that sound better or am I still spitting in the wind? That's what this thread is about, So I don't take anything personal and evrything is fair game. If you guys say $150 is too high, Then I'll either make another adjustment or jsut install them on the 260Z. I'm not hurt either way. Thanks for your opinions guys, That's why I keep coming back everyday. And the pictures in the AD will not show how brite they truly are, It's a digital camera thing I guess. Dave. And here's the pictures you requested Julio.

Anyone? Just need some honoest opinions, that's all.

I know, I figured it out after I posted that shot. There's a good one of you and me chatting by the back of your Z. It's in the second roll of film about 15 pic in? It was great talking with ya and here's another (Kinda) picture of you and your Z. Dave.

I just finished my second set of LED front Marker lights and I need to know what you guys think. What would ya pay for something like this, would you rather just buy an LED bulb or or go for the whole conversion with wetsanded and polished lenses, cleaned housings, new screws and nylon washers, new mounting hardware and cleaned rubber seal? Let me know what ya think, this is NOT an AD, just an inquiry to see what the demand is. I have one set in the classifieds but the price is for the complete set, not a conversion. If you send me yours for the conversion, it would cost less. http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2920 what do ya think. Dave.

Yup, looks good. So I decided to do a count on how many times I saw myself and My 70'. Found myself 8 times and my Z or hints of it 9 times... My Z was next to the "Vertical Doors" 240Z so it was easy to find. I even spotted Leah (My wife) sitting in her chair under the trees, near the Z. We Had a Blast. Here's my Z and me, contemplating the weight of the world in a blade of grass.

That's awesome Dan, I see it now, I just had to hold my curser over the picture for a second to see the date title. Thanks again, And I like I said, IF you're able to get that picture without too much hassle, then by all means, do. If not, don't sweat it, someone has to have a 4/72' they're willing to share with us. Dave

If I can find time (or if anyone else can) I'll call Honda Service on tuesday and have them do a Cross refence on the correct part, to find out what other hondas that motor came in. That should answer this age old question, I hope. Now I need to find the part number. Dave.

!!!UPDATE!!! ALL OF THE PARKING LIGHT UPGRADES ARE NOW PLUG & PLAY. Not only did I find a new supplies for the large 6-pin combo switch connectors, But I also found the correct small 9-pin connectors (pictured below). So the mid to late 240Z's, ALL 260Z's and the 280Z's with the same square 9-pin connector can now be plug and play like the 240Z's..... Thanks to all for your input on where to find the connectors but also your patience in the last few months. The PLH's are still $45 and now available for ALL 240Z's and 260Z's, and early 280Z's. Thanks again to all, If you have any questions, feel free to PM me anytime. Dave.

Wayne, What is the build date of the Z that the refurbished switches work on. It almost doesn't matter what the donors came from but what the switches work on. So the build date and the needed pictures are NOT pointless, at this point. Everything will help get a clue on this thread. So Pics and build date Please. What is the build date of your switches pictured above me? I know you have or have owned a 71' and 72' and a 73'. But which ones which. Thanks again to all who participate, The end result should be something that everyone will benefit from, at one time or another. Dave.

I get the lenses up to room temp, then s-l-o-w-l-y pry them up and apart but not before removing the locking washer on the back. I've torn more than 30 pairs apart because I do the LED conversion to the 240Z taillights. I try and leave as much glue as possible IN the rear assembly, then use a small torch to reheat it before reattaching the lenses. If I'm not able to retain the original glue apon removal, I'll go ahead and remove the rest with a flathead and then I use the Black 3M StripCaulk in the channel, heat it up then reattach the lenses that way. For reinforcement, I drill a small hole in the chrome after removing the plastic tab, then run a small skinny bolt all the way thru to the back and bolt it down. Dave. The pics below will show some of the process. Also, the third picture, you can barely see the phillips head screw in the middle of the trim and the last picture shows that bolt on the inside of the lense. It goes thru the back and gets a nut to tighten it down. And the second picture shows the reflector that I instal into the reverse light area as they never came stock with one.