Zs-ondabrain

Anyone? Just need some honoest opinions, that's all.

I know, I figured it out after I posted that shot. There's a good one of you and me chatting by the back of your Z. It's in the second roll of film about 15 pic in? It was great talking with ya and here's another (Kinda) picture of you and your Z. Dave.

I just finished my second set of LED front Marker lights and I need to know what you guys think. What would ya pay for something like this, would you rather just buy an LED bulb or or go for the whole conversion with wetsanded and polished lenses, cleaned housings, new screws and nylon washers, new mounting hardware and cleaned rubber seal? Let me know what ya think, this is NOT an AD, just an inquiry to see what the demand is. I have one set in the classifieds but the price is for the complete set, not a conversion. If you send me yours for the conversion, it would cost less. http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2920 what do ya think. Dave.

Yup, looks good. So I decided to do a count on how many times I saw myself and My 70'. Found myself 8 times and my Z or hints of it 9 times... My Z was next to the "Vertical Doors" 240Z so it was easy to find. I even spotted Leah (My wife) sitting in her chair under the trees, near the Z. We Had a Blast. Here's my Z and me, contemplating the weight of the world in a blade of grass.

That's awesome Dan, I see it now, I just had to hold my curser over the picture for a second to see the date title. Thanks again, And I like I said, IF you're able to get that picture without too much hassle, then by all means, do. If not, don't sweat it, someone has to have a 4/72' they're willing to share with us. Dave

If I can find time (or if anyone else can) I'll call Honda Service on tuesday and have them do a Cross refence on the correct part, to find out what other hondas that motor came in. That should answer this age old question, I hope. Now I need to find the part number. Dave.

!!!UPDATE!!! ALL OF THE PARKING LIGHT UPGRADES ARE NOW PLUG & PLAY. Not only did I find a new supplies for the large 6-pin combo switch connectors, But I also found the correct small 9-pin connectors (pictured below). So the mid to late 240Z's, ALL 260Z's and the 280Z's with the same square 9-pin connector can now be plug and play like the 240Z's..... Thanks to all for your input on where to find the connectors but also your patience in the last few months. The PLH's are still $45 and now available for ALL 240Z's and 260Z's, and early 280Z's. Thanks again to all, If you have any questions, feel free to PM me anytime. Dave.

Wayne, What is the build date of the Z that the refurbished switches work on. It almost doesn't matter what the donors came from but what the switches work on. So the build date and the needed pictures are NOT pointless, at this point. Everything will help get a clue on this thread. So Pics and build date Please. What is the build date of your switches pictured above me? I know you have or have owned a 71' and 72' and a 73'. But which ones which. Thanks again to all who participate, The end result should be something that everyone will benefit from, at one time or another. Dave.

I get the lenses up to room temp, then s-l-o-w-l-y pry them up and apart but not before removing the locking washer on the back. I've torn more than 30 pairs apart because I do the LED conversion to the 240Z taillights. I try and leave as much glue as possible IN the rear assembly, then use a small torch to reheat it before reattaching the lenses. If I'm not able to retain the original glue apon removal, I'll go ahead and remove the rest with a flathead and then I use the Black 3M StripCaulk in the channel, heat it up then reattach the lenses that way. For reinforcement, I drill a small hole in the chrome after removing the plastic tab, then run a small skinny bolt all the way thru to the back and bolt it down. Dave. The pics below will show some of the process. Also, the third picture, you can barely see the phillips head screw in the middle of the trim and the last picture shows that bolt on the inside of the lense. It goes thru the back and gets a nut to tighten it down. And the second picture shows the reflector that I instal into the reverse light area as they never came stock with one.

and to add to the 2/73' pics, here are a finished pair that I'm doing for "ZUP" And I really need pics and dates of what ever Z used the 3 wire Turn Signal switch with a 3 wire connector. Dave.

And when mounting the overflow tank, try and keep it as level with the top of the radiator as possible. This will allow the radiator to suck fluid back in without gravity pulling the fluid back into the overflow. Basically, the longer the straw, the harder you have to suck to get the drink in, shortening the straw or drinking straight from the glass will require less effort (in radiator terms). So higher is better. Also, Red-Line make a product called "Water-Wetter" it will reduce coolant temps up to 15 degrees in most cases. With my aluminum radiator and the water wetter and high mounted overflow bottle, my temp never goes over 180, even while stuck in 95 degree traffic jam in L.A. after leaving MSA this year. Dave.

Lets keep searching for an answer anyways, I get the puff of blue smoke and burn thru 2 quarts per tank. I need to do a rebuild and have the same question in mind. Just a simple upgrade with pistons and rings, bearings, seals, freeze plugs, etc. etc. Best rebuild kit? best affordable pistons and rings? I also plan on lightening the flywheel to 16 pounds and ballancing everything, installing my rebuilt N42, stage 2 cam and everything else will be transfered over. Thanks in advance to all who input. Dave.

Come on people. Take 5 minutes to go take a picture of your switches. I really need a picture of an 8/71 and a top view of the 1/71, MATT. But I still need some more input from every one who can add to this. Let's fill this thing up. If you don't see your switches on here, ADD them. Thanks, Dave

http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/bcpid1417302180/bclid909804097/bctid1557911172 It's a little off key but it gives you and idea of the history. The lights are definatley different but it looks more infinity than Nissan. You know what I mean Dave.

Here's another .... 2/73 240Z 3 position wiper and usual everything else, long pigtail on Turn signal switch. Also, I believe the combo switch sits on an upper angle (due to the 3 position wiper switch) as compared to the earlier 240Z switches that sit in the center of the metal chassis.

That's perfect Mat, is there a double black wire (1 small and 1 large) on the top of the headlight switch? And does the small black wire from the wiper switch go to the top of the headlight switch? Thanks and keep 'em coming guys, the more, the marrier. Dave.

This is for everyones benefit. You'll love this thread later, when you need it. Just takes 5 minutes and a camera. Anyone?

I hope to make this a Sticky (Mike!!) I want to Document every S30 style combo and Turn Signal Switch. I need every one to see what is already posted and add to this Thread if you don't see your style of switches. With any luck, anyone can pick up a switch out of a box of parts and be able to cross reference it here and know exactly what they have. I am now in possesion of over 80+ switches that I would like to start rebuilding for people and customers. Only problem is that there are so many styles that I am not totally sure of what is what. So PLEASE remove 4 screws from the steering column cover, take off the top and bottom covers and......... Take a picture of.... 1 of the top (looking from the roof down at the switches) 2 of the bottom (show the length of the T/S switch pigtail and the wires going into the T/S switch and the wiper switch. Try to show as much detail as possible that makes your switch different from the others listed. Make sure to STATE YOUR BUILD DATE!!! So everything can be properly documented. Thanks to all who participate. Dave. The pictures below are of my 8/70 and the combo switch and T/S switch wires are clearly visable as are the connectors. large 6-pin on the combo and small 6-pin connector on a short pigtail of the T/S. and a 6 wire T/S box.

Carl, The BD harness is a deal. UNTIL you try to instal it in a 240Z. You have to... 1, remove the headlight buckets 2, cut the BD headlight plug off just to get it into the bucket. 3, re-attach the headlight plug and do the same thing on the other side. 4, wire up a bright yellow harness that only has 14 gauge wires. 5, The BD relays are next to impossible to replace, as nobody carries the replacement relay. It's the biggest pain in the A$$ I've ever had to deal with. And I'm sure I speak for every 240Z owner who has ever tried to instal one in their 240Z. You basically get what ya pay for. Pay more, get one that is perfect for the 240Z, pay less and spend 3 hours installing a peice of crap. Did you read the second to last sentence, no cutting or splicing required. That's too damn funny. JMHO Dave.

OK, slow down guys, I'l Blushing over here. :love: I try to make each and every item as if were going into my own Z. I can't imagine how some Manufacturers make such infearior products considering their budgets and Mfg Plants. It's almost like they've never even seen a Z, but they're willing to make a "Universal" Part for our cars. eh hmm, VB, BD, etc, etc..... But anyways, I really appreciate the compliments, business and Praise for my efforts. The word of mouth advertising always seems to be the best. Especially when someone has tried an upgrade from somewhere else and unfortunately finds out that the Universal part is not even close without serious alteration to their Z or it's wiring. Then to write me and tell me how much more Superior My product is, compared to the Big name company. Makes me feel as if I'm doing right by you guys. And that's what makes it all worth it. My products are Warranteed for the life of my business. But only if you purchase them thru me. If you buy my HLH, ZXP or SCP's thru any other supplier, like "Datsun-Parts" No warranty will be implied or enforced. Because there is no telling what the product has been subjected to between my shipping it to him, his storage or handling of the product, and his shipping methods to his ebay customers. I basically release all interest in the product once it leaves my home. But once again, this only applies to "Resellers" Thanks again to ALL for their purchases, continued loyalty and great words about my products. And please don't forget to add ARNE to your praises, for the SCP and ZXP were his ideas to begin with. I plan on staying in business for you guys and gals as long as possible. Thank you all, so much. Sincerely, Dave.

My Xenon Urethane front air dam was Corvetter Yellow when I got it. I got lucky cause they forgot to add a "Flex agent" and most of it was easily removed by "Flexing" the urethane to break the paint free. I then used a thin putty knife under the lifted paint. Almost all of came off except for a few tight areas. I used a paint remover on those small spots and got the rest off. BUT BE CAREFUL. Paint stripper WILL melt Urethane if you're not careful. I used the kind that dilutes with water for a safer approach. Good luck, Dave.

It had a Titon V6 out of the Titon truck. I also think it was an All wheel drive or even 4WD rear engine. Turbocharged as well, I think. Also, they have 3 good shots of mine and I saw my Z in four other pics, for a 7 count. On the shot of the red "Vertical Doors" Z, you can see me in my Datsun shirt, talking to Goose52. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/picture.cgi?section=events&article=zcarnatls2008&picnum=213

Sounds like an oblong to me. Try cleaning the center contact, in the lighter hole. I've found that some plugs work and some don't. You just have to compare the adaptors to see why one works and the other does'nt. So I take it the lighter itself works? If so, that'll suck more power (amperage) than the Radar detector will. The lighter, in essence, is a short circuit, and that's what heats up the lighter. So it's most likely a fitment issue. Dave.

Just remember that those wires heat up and occasionally, the wires melt together and don't apear that way, the solder flows, the contacts over heat and melt the plastic bullets, and I've even had the bullets slip out of place apon re-assembly and not know it till I tested it. Then had to tear it apart and do it again. When the switch is apart, pay close attention to the hole that the springs sit in. Each hole has 2 small lips that prevent the bullet from slipping out of that hole. Occasionally, one of those small lips will break off and it's so small that you don't even notice it. Then you put it back together and it'll fall apart agin and you can't figure out why. Being as how I do this all the time, I have replacement parts and have even figured out how to melt a new lip on the hole's sidewall, to prevent bullet slippage. DON'T stretch the spring too much!! it'll cause too much strain on the lip and bullet, causing premature failure. I found that out the hard way. If you still have problems, let me know and I'll try to help. Dave.

And even easier is the SEM Rust converter. Clean up the rust as well as possible (wire brush, grinder, what have you) apply with a brush or even a touch up gun (paint gun) Let it dry then do the bodywork. or Even apply it on any questionable areas. You don't wash it off when you're done and it only takes a light film. Little goes a long way and you can spray it up into cavities and call it done. Dave.