Zs-ondabrain

Hey Tom, He already fixed the lights, It's the wipers that won't shut off now. Weasel, I think the switch is still broken, Try it again. And look for any solder joints that may have flowed into another connection. I rebuild them all the time and have found this issue more than once. Dave.

See. I told you someone would correct me if I was wrong. But at least we got the correct facts out without knockin somebody down. I really like the "ALL chrome" look. But then again, the black rubber makes everything else stand out a bit more. That's why I'm torn between the 2. Dave.

And to add to that, I believe that most 240Z's had the black rubber trim on the front and rear bumpers but the EURO bumpers (from Europe) were available as a Full Chrome unit and had no holes for the rubber trim to be used. It's a nice look, just like the one you pictured. You can make the US models look like that by removing the rubber trim and either filling in the holes then rechroming or just use the bolts that have a rounded head to fill the holes that are left after removing the trim. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, Dave.

It is the switch. The contacts are controlled by a plastic bullet shaped ball loaded with a spring. Occasionally, they fall out or the small pastic lip that retains the ball, breaks off and then they fall off, leaving the contacts connected in the On or Off position. Pull it apart and see what's up. You may need a new switch if it's what I think it is. If not, just place everything back where it's supposed to be. If you need a new switch, contact me about replacing it or possibly rebuilding it. I have the parts you need. If it needs replacing, or rebuilding, send it to me and I'll have it all back together and working like new for $50. Better than paying $150 for a hard to find NOS combo switch. Dave.

If you're gonna use the 3M stuff, use the 99. it's stronger and less effected by the heat. I personally use VS-1081 (12oz can is $8.00) made for hi strength and hi temp applications. And for everything else, I use VS-185 $3.25 per 12 oz can (hi strength, better webbing, not a film like the 3M products. Under a hot sun, the metal can reach temps exceeding 140+ degrees F. A hot aplied glue will work better but your talking a lot more money and someone that has the equipment. Dave

The dash lights are typically dim due to old bulbs, bad grounds, and lack of sufficiant power to the lighting circuits of the 240z's. That's was the 2nd reasoning for the PLH or Parking Light Upgrade Harness that I make. It's major function is to relieve the amperage that flows thru the fusebox and the combo switch. The resistance in the parking light circuit is the best explanation for your dim dash lights, as they are on the parking light circuit. After installing the PLH, the dash lights, as well as the side markers, front markers and rear taillights were brighter. I personally removed the inner, green plastic domes, especially after finding that the factory painted half of each green dome white. Just removing those improved the lighting. Then I went to www.superbriteleds.com and ordered 11 BA9 wide angle, white LED bulbs. Then I painted the lip of the front gauge plate, silver. (not the can or housing but the black front peice, so the light would reflect off of that and onto the face of the gauge. The result was an ever so slightly blue in the white light. It's much cleaner, brighter and I can tell you how fast I'm going at night now. Sorry the pics are so big, I was in a hurry.....

somewhere in this thread, I think I was asked what the carb set up was on my Webers. Weber 40DCOE 151's Aux. Venturi's are......... 45 Chokes are...................28 idle jets are...................45 (F4) Main jets are................120? F9 Air correction jets are ...170 Here ya go, Dave.

The only other Black/white wires I can find on my diagram is from the ignition and one that goes from the Voltage regulator and taps into the Kick-down switch for an automatic transmission. Is the wire "Cut" or does it have a connector on it?? If it ain't broke, don't try and fix it, Dave.

I also just heard that the early 260Z bumper, that is almost identical to the 240Z bumper, will bolt up to the 280Z easily due to the shock assemblies of the 260 & 280Z's being the same. Do a search on that, Dave.

If I were a bettin man, and I am, I'd say he meant 16,000 were auto's. That's a givin. COngrats on the find. I too just bought my first 260Z about a month ago and I'm re-learning everything different about the 260z versus the 70' 240Z that I already own (almost 6 years now) Dave.

Thanks for the "ad" I still have it, and if nobody buys it, it's going on the 260Z. I don't have to think twice about that. I'm this close to starting on the 74 as it is so the box of upgrades is ready to be filled. How were the fitment issues with the terminals being aimed out, considering they were designed with rear aiming in mind? I did it that way to hide the wires from being in front of the battery. I just like a clean tray area but if you wanna show them off, that's awesome. Dave. By the way, I'm still chuckling about that. LOL

You'll have to excuse me for a second, my head is hurting from falling off my chair, from laughing so hard. Hell, even my wife is in the corner giggling up a storm. Thats's some funny shite...... I'm glad to hear you figured it out. I figured it was a lack of it being disconnected but never thought you'd go Rambo on it. So how do the battery cables look and work? I made up another set to "Sell" at MSA for $80 but no one was interested. Quit breaking stuff and drive the damn car. Dave.

There are a couple of us up here in Washington. Where do you live?? If your close enough, one of us might try and make it to you to help you out. A second set of eyes are always beter than one. It sounds like all the bases have been covered but complicating it is'nt going to make it any easier. Start with the simple things...... Like unplug and reconnect the related connectors. check all the major power wires, they are in constant use and go bad. Even if it comes down to cutting off the bad terminals and butting them together. REALLY go thru all the ground points, everyone of them, no matter how unrelated they may seem. start testing fom the battery to the ignition, there's something wrong and you will find it if you take baby steps. Electrical systems are some of the most irritating things to deal with in a car. Just thank go it's not a newer car with miles of cables, connectors, computors and everything else. So once again, where do you live? If you're within say 30 miles, I might be able to make it over there. Ya never know. Dave.

Being as how I'm pretty sure you bought one of my PLH parking light upgrade harness's, you might want to check the fuseholder that sits near the firewall, it may have fallen between the battery and firewall. just find the power wire coming out of the firewall from the PLH relay and trace it to the battery area. If you did'nt purchase a PLH from me, double check the 3rd fuse down on the right in the fusebox. it can look fine and still be bad. Throw another fuse in there just for shits and giggles. Report back, Dave.

Put an ohms meter on the fusable links. They can blow without any change in apearance. Sounds like you popped a main link or fuse. Also keep an eye on your engine harness grounds and other major connections that deal with battery and alternator power, as well as the grounds. Dave.

My triples only show fuel pressure when the car is not running, especially when the heat from the headers reaches the carbs and fuel lines (due to the lack of a moving fan) It'll show about 5 pounds when I turn the key on but after start up, the gauge drops down to 1 pound or less. I don't know if that's typical but that's what mine does. I figure that as long as the carbs are getting fuel, you're fine. When the jets start dumping fuel, it won't hold a constant pressure. Almost like on an air tank, you hit the nozzle and the needle drops, same situation?? Quit spending money unless something breaks. "if it ain't broke........." Dave.

No apologies needed. I have many customers for everything from the Upgrade harness's to basic maintenance to Automotive Audio/media, fiberglass, body work, paint, custom parts (Cowl induction hoods, aluminum grills, speaker pods and enclosures) etc, etc. I do what ever it takes to pay the bills. right now I'm trying to finish up a set of 280Z Euro LED taillights, fill an order of 10 Headlight upgrade harness's, 5 ZXP's and 10 SCP (sidemarker conversion plugs) on top of some other small orders. Next week I have to do a full back seat fiberglass enclosure for 4) 12" subs with 3) 800 watt amps, 6 monitors, 4 Farad Capacitor, Air ride pump and 4 gallon air tank, 1/0 gauge power wire, and maybe a PlayStation in the rear. I don't take days off. Thanks for all the answers, just a little confused but I think I got it now. Being as how I'll also be building MY 260Z to a raod worthy machine, I figure I should start paying attension to the 260 info available. Thanks again, Dave.

The reason I ask is A future customer has a 9/74 with aparently stock skinny 240Z bumpers. But they started making the 280Z only 1 month later. So could the "Late model 260Z" have only existed for one month. I'm confused cause I kinda called him on it and he said it looks like a 240 from front to back, even though it's a 9/74'. So what month did they start putting on the 280Z bumpers onto the 260Z? Confused yet intrigued all at once, Dave.

And another related question is.... What date would be considered Late or early model? For example, I have a 2/74 which is considered an "Early" model. When does it become a Late model. Calling Carl Beck? any insite? Dave.

As per our PM's, You already checked for continuity and that was OK. But I'm thinking maybe it's time to upgrade the Distributor and lose the Ballast resistor all-together. The 79' 280ZX electronic dizzy is a very popular swap around here. Use the "Search" button to find all the needed info on it. They are usually $75 or less and as low as $5 at most pull-a-part yards. And then replace the Coil with something like a Blaster 2 from MSD? The nice thing about this set-up is the lack of checking the gap and dwell on the points and not having to deal with points anymore. Your other choices are the obvious Pertronics and Fireball ignition. I'm not positive on the whole Voltage Thing but hopefully upgrading should eliminate a few problems. and help with better spark which will increase your power or fuel milage. JMO Dave.

Well I just got my first of 2 different orders. I ordered the square 9-pin male and female connectors with terminals. I just checked them with my 260Z and they are an exact fit for the combo switch. Which means that not only can I now make Plug & Play Parking light upgrade harness's for the post 3/73 240z's but I believe I can also now make them for the 260Z and 280Z's. Yeah. No more hard-wire PLH's. All you purist should love that one. Now that I'm sure of the fitment issues, I'll make a bigger order and post an add with a write-up, informing those in need that they are available. Thanks for the heads-up guys. I, as well as others, really appreciate it. Dave.

Like I said before. L24 with Triple 40DCOE Webers, Mallory unilite, MSD 6A and stage 2 cam with headers gets 26 MPG freeway. Also has a 79' 5-speed and 3:90 diff 2 years ago, when I had my Stock S.U.'s on, 280ZX dizzy, and same cam and header, I got 27.5 MPG freeway (to MSA 06') Most of you guys can thank you local emmisions laws for crappy milage as well. Dave.

So I'm actually seriously thinking about doing a simple rebuild/improvement on my numbers matching block. I'm thinking new dished pistons, rings, bearings. ballance the rods and crank, ballance and lighten the flywheel, put on the rebuilt N42 head with my stage 2 cam, then re-install the Webers, Mallory and headers. Here's my simple question. Based on about a 30 over bore. 1) What is the best, low priced rebuild kit I should get? (gaskets, bearings, freeze plugs, etc) where and how much? 2) What are the best low priced dished (stock style) pistons and rings, that will work with my stock rods.? who, what and how much. I just want her to run for another 173,000 miles without smoking or loosing 2 quarts of oil per tankful. Yes, I said 2 quarts per tank........ And I figure why not rebuild, bore and ballance her while I'm at it. Any help would be great. Dave.

I ordered 2 sets of the 9-pin combo switch connectors and 2 sets of the 6-pin connectors as well. I'll try them out and go from there. Thanks guys. Dave.