Zs-ondabrain

I guess I've been lucky so far. I've made about 20+ purchases on eBay and all have been good. Though I just heard from a DZ-Start customer that he had already purchased a Nissan Maxima Switch button and paid $90 for this "Next to IMPOSSIBLE to find item!!" as listed, when in fact, they are around $30 and less, depending on where you look. Do your research people, it'll pay off in the end. And like 5thhorseman said, only use 100% feedback sellers. Or close to 100%.Dave

Can do Greg. As for everyone else, These are moving faster than I thought. I'm thinking this order of 20 units will be gone by Mid April. So if you're waiting, I wouldn't wait too long. By the way guys and gals, A portion of your purchase of a DZ-Start system will be donated to the site you found the DZ-Start on. This site, among others, is the reason you're able to find and buy one. And because of that, I am telling everyone to let me know where you saw the Kit Info, so I can Pay them. I'd love to put "Site Supporter" in my title. We're about Less than 10 days from a final, shippable product. And that'll include relay harness, Nissan switch button and cable, DZ-Start Module, hole template and Hopefully (if my metal guy hurries up) the Aluminum alloy Bracket for those who don't want to remove their ignition assembly. Dave moving right along........

Richard, got your email and responded. Let me know hat ya think. And don't worry if somethings broke, I got 75+ pounds of switches and switch parts. I gotcha taken care of. Dave

*UPDATE* time.......... Just installed the New Remote Control Key Fob Option in the box and it works Great!!!! Even with all the wiring and other crap in my dash, the tinted windows (Usually gives signals a problem) metal and all that, The Remote had about a 40 Foot Range on it. I was across the street in my neighbors Garage and it still worked fine. No beeping or light flash, just hit the ON or OFF button and you're good. This is the best I can do on a first Edition run. I hope to offer a stand alone RFID system that can be hooked up to the Orange Dissengage wire, at a later date. But for now, the Remote System seems to do the trick for those worried about security. Here's what you'll get..... A blue wire and 2) Remote Key Fobs. The Remotes are. 1.25" wide X 1.75" long The DZ-Start with Remote Option will be an additional $25 for a total of $195 delivered anywhere in the Lower 48 United States. Does this work for anyone now? Dave

Even the Crane system works on a Pulsed signal. The signal I'm refering to is the signal the charges the coil and allows it to release, repeatedly, causing spark for the plugs. I have an MSD System and I just grabbed the signal off the White wire, that get's it's signal from the distributor. The signal can be grabbed on fuel injected cars using the Injector wires. They rest at ground and get a positive signal to open with each stroke of the piston (or every other stroke) So it's easy to find. AND the LED on the DZ-Start will tell you when you have the correct signal. It will light up when it gets a Pulsed signal. Just hook up (instal the DZ-Start) Start the car, connect a long wire to the Purple Sinal wire on the DZ-Start, touch it to the coil's (+) terminal and see if the LED is lit. If not, probe around the distributor wire and check again. It will light when you get it. Connect the wire to the pulsed wire then hit the button to shut off the car. If you can't find the signal, just press the button without touching the brake pedal. The pulsed signal just tells the DZ-Start that the motor is running. So if you have your foot on the brake when shutting off the motor, it doesn't run the starter motor and grind the starter. Post what you find here, so if anyone else has a similar issue, they'll find it here. Dave

Found out some great news today while out and about. It's been brought up that some people would like to be able to have the button in the ON position for Working on the car, diagnostics, etc. I thought at first that the new design would not support this, BUT. parently I was wrong... Typically, if you press the button once, you get Acc. If you press on the brake pedal and press and hold the button, the car starts. -*BUT*- If the button shows ACC from the first press, just a quick TAP of the button while pressing the brake pedal, the car won't start but the ignition relay is turned on, for diagnostic work or whatever. I found out by accident today. I tried to start the car and didn't press the button long enough to start the car. Looked down and saw the ON LED was on, which means the Ign. Relay was on. So yes. The new design does support your need for an Ign ON position for working on the car. So get in the car, press the brake pedal and "Double Tap" the button for an "Ign. ON" position without the car running. then, without pressing the brake pedal, tap again to shut it off. OR press the brake and hold the button to start. Dave So far, this thing has everything. And was actually surpriced but th Anti-car jacking and Ign. ON Engine not running features. Still have some spots available if anyone is interested. EPSARK, Did you find anything out on the issue you had? is the connector cut off or is it a big mess under there.?

What Gary said. New Battery, bump your Battey Cables up to a 4 gauge, Clean the ground connections on the firewall behind the battery, and below the battery-above the frame rail, pull the grounds and clean them and the metal they contact, bolt down tight. It is possible that the ignition switch could be weakening after these long years. In that case, YES, the DZ-Start system would fix that. Dave

Would anyone be interested more if we offered a 2) remote system that can easily turn ON/OFF the security feature with the push of a button??? Anyone? I've yet to find an RFID that I really like yet. But I'm looking. Also, got 3) pre-Paid orders and lots of interest so far. I know a lot of you want to see a finished product before showing interest, and having another S30 owner, novice installer show how easy it is will probably help in the decision making. I know this is not for everyone. It's not a typical "Dave Upgrade" but it is pretty damn cool. If you have any questions Please feel free to ask away. And in case I haven't mentioned it yet... The functions now resemble the Maxima even more. press once for Acc. only Press again to shut it off. Press once for Acc. press brake and button again to start, press again for off. At the buyers request, a micro switch can be installed near the relays to turn on the "Ign. Only" for Diagnostic work on your S30. Thanks for reading. hope everyone had a good week-end. Dave

Can't seem to acces the Xenons30 site's 77' 280Z Zipfile FSM. It says "It's not valid" Does anyone who reads this, have a 77' or 78' 280 that they can clarify 2 wires for me?........ On the combo switch, there are 2 green wires on the combo switch to the connector. the green/white is on the outer corner of the connector and the other green (possible green/blue) is next to it. Can anyone reading this, Verify WHICH wire has constant power and which gets power when the parking lights are turned on?? This will only take a minute to find with a test light. Although you may have to remove the column cover to test. Me and Bob, really need to know asap. Trying to do a Hard-wire PLH on his 280Z and need this info before I ship his switches back to him. Thanks in advance, Dave (And Bob)

Got your switches last night and have already rebuilt them. Check your email and answer my question please. I need to know before I pack them up for tomorrows delivery. "Is the wire that you cut positive all the time or does it get power when the switch is turned on.???" Let me know. Dave

By the sounds of it. The ignition is getting power from the battery. Enough to start the car. Yet nothing else works unless the car is running. This tells me there is a bad connection from the battery to the fusebox. This also tells me that the alternator is powering those items that the battery should be powering, until the car starts and alternator takes over. My guess was find the connection that connects the battery to those items. It's not making contact where it used to. And the alternator is also on the same connection somehow, I wish you lived closer. Do the vinegar thing. Dave

Thanks Dave, I try. I replied to a message with Greg today. Soundmasterg in Oregon. He brought up a good point. Went something like this...... YES!. Completely easy. The Button has an Orange Dissengage wire. When that wire is grounded (Via a toggle switch hooked to ground, a pressure pad connected to ground, or an Alarms "Ground when Armed" wire) the system will not work. If you find an RFID system, with a "ground when away" (wire goes to ground when the RFID tag is not within range) then hook that wire up to the Orange wire and you're good. It's literally THAT easy. My issue is they (the good ones, with some range on them - other than 4 inches) are expensive. When I find one that is cost efficiant and fit's in the box we have, I WILL offer it. Guard dog has a small one, it's the size of a relay and has a 10 foot range that is adjustable. But it's $150. I'm looking for one that's in the $50 range. Dave ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ And on another note........ What are your opinions on a simple remote ON/OFF system, integrated with the box. 2 remotes, simple ON or OFF feature. Not sure about the range yet but I'm sure it's outside the car. I ordered a unit and will test it this week. I'm thinking a $30 add on? Maybe. Still looking for a decent affordable, decent range RFID. Not that easy. Got some pics for you guys too. Dave 1) The Labeled DZ-Start box and Security switch (hidable) 2) The Instal guide (revised) 3) The Complete kit (with the security switch out of frame) 4) The 10-pin connector of the Harness plugged in. 5) The Nissan Button plugged in with the "Coil Signal Aquired" LED 6) The Nissan Switch ready to go in it's home 7) The New switch in the Ignition switch hole More pics available here.......... Photobucket / DatsunDave09

OK, Finally got out there and made a video of the new DZ-Ztart module installed in my 70' 240Z. The old video had different functions. It now better resemble the Maxima operation of Push once for Acc, press brake and push to start car, press again to shut off. Press without touching brake pedal and you only get Acc. on and off. Thanks again guys, Dave

So one of the Members at Ratsun.net did a little research and found the following vehicles with the same style connector and correct wiring (in the correct slot for complete Plug-N-play) with no altering of the wiring configuration. These are the same as the 240Z's ignition connector and wiring Datsun 1968-1973 510 1970-1978 240Z, 260Z, 280Z 1979-1983 280ZX 1972-1973 1200 (B110) 1979-1982 210 (B310) 1978-1981 510 (A10) 1977-1981 810 (Bluebird) 1982-1983 Maxima (910 Bluebird) 1979-1982 310 (N10) 1977-1983 200SX (S10) 1979 Datsun 620 1980-1982 Datsun 720 Subaru 1982-1987 Brat 1986-1987 GL 1980-1984 DL 1980 GLF 1980 GL 1980-1987 Standard And these are wired different, but look similar: 1974-1978 B210 1973-1976 610 1975-1977 710 1976-1978 F10 All I would need to know, to make the DZ-Start Plug N Play for these models, is where each wire is in the connector. So 20 vehicles are P-N-P for the DZ-Start. Things are looking good so far. Fianl schematic and board Lay-out was sent to the PCB Manufacurer. So I'll be able to start assembling the boards in a few weeks and should have the relay harnesses ready by then as well. This is me, doing my "Happy Dance" Dave

After rereading your post, it sounds like he did more than just cut off the plug and wire in the switches. Take a look at where the plug used to be and see what all he did. Kinda interested to find out. Dave

If he cut your plug off, I can make you a hard-wire version with Matching colored wires to connect to your dash harness, crimp the butt connectors and you're good to go for the other 3 wires. Simple.

It HAS 2 Security features. Every Kit will come with a PLUG-IN Micro Switch. Which cn be put anywhere within 3 feet of the Start box. AND you can even Extend the wires using regular speaker wire to any length you choose (to put it in the center console if you'd like) The 2 wires of the security Switch just need to make contact to Disengage the Box (Make it not work) I Just got the new box and will make a small video tomorrow. The Second Security feature is a Single wire than can be connected to an Alarms "Ground when Armed" wire. So If you have an alarm, this feature can be added to your alarm to Disengage the Box. AND you can also leave in the Micro switch as a back-up, so if your alarms power wire is cut, the Micro switch will still Disengage the Box. The Third Security Feature is an Anit-Car-Jacking Feature. When the car is running, Flip the Micro switch (when in bad Neighborhoods). pressing the Ignition Button will shut the engine off, you give up your car and leave, they hit the button all they want and it won't start. They leave the car and look for the next victim. You come back when he's gone, flip the switch and drive away. Mike, This is a Keyless Ignition, not a Keyless Vehicle system. As I said in the first post, "Use your key to enter the vehicle and put it back in your pocket." You'll never lock your keys in the car again. esmit208, An Extended Cable will be available for those with Custom Applications like the dash or center console. The Hole cut-out Template can be used on the center console or any 1/8" plate of their chosing. A Multi-Mounting bracket will also be available with Pre-cut hole and tabs. It will aalow the bracket to be mounted Under the flat of the dash, on the center console, above the steering column cover or to the left of it. I'll post a picture later to explain the simple mounting bracket for those who want to put the switch somewhere other than the ignition hole. Going to dinner be back later to fill you in some more. Dave

You're right, not an option for everyone but thanks for the compliment. Yes. As long as your ignition plug is like every other S30 (2 rows of 3) 6-pin connector just like the one pictured below. Most plugs are identical with the exception of the green wire. If you don't have a Ballast resistor, then you won't likely have the green colored wire. And it will still work on your 280Z. If your wires are in the same order then you're good. I don't know, that cap is kinda cool. You sure you wanna replace it? Just kiddin. It'll replace the cap just fine. It definately has a "Cool Factor" Transponders are pricey at the moment and most of the cheaper ones only have a 5" range. Which means the keys have to be placed right next to the receiver in order to work. We're looking into this as well, hopefully a 5 foot range for those with power door locks. And the ease of "As long as the keys are on your person, it'll work" I don't like using my Notoriety to sell things but if it helps.......... I'm hoping the product will sell itself. The fact that it's keyless, Push to Start and Stop, Lights up and tells you what it's doing (Status LED's) and the ease of instal (3 connectors and only 3 of the 6 wires to make it work) the other 3 wires are optional. Thanks guys, keepem coming. Hybrid Z is next. I know it'll be a hit over there but you guys are family, and therefore get first dibs.... Dave

Thanks Tristan. I try. I actually wrote this thread to get an idea of any interest in this type of product. Does $170 (with shipping included) Sound like an ideal, reasonable price for a Plug and Play kit? A full kit that has Everything you need to be Keyless, Push Button Ignition, with built in security features and only requires 3 connections and 3 wires to be connected for a fully operational unit (and of coarse, dremeling 1/16" of the plastic steering column shell) So let's here it guys. Would you be interested at this price? Nothing is built except for the 2 prototypes, one of which is fully operational and in my daily driven 240Z, for about 3 weeks now) I'm considering a run of 20 to keep the price down and would like to do Pre-Orders to Make sure costs are covered and the first come first served idea of the R/T mounts works for those who are interested. PM or Email me if you are interested. wolfin32z@yahoo.com I would like to make Donations to the Site from the sale of these. So your purchase will also help Classiczcars.com Dave

OK, so you all know I like to try and come up with something New into something old. I've noticed a lot of people trying to come up with a Push Button Start for their S30. The others want to use the Newer Maxima / Altima Start/Stop button. The problem has been that they still have to use the key to turn on the ignition, Cut up the wiring, Drill holes or have to make specialty brackets, etc, etc and sometimes with bad results. Such as wire fires, car won't start, electrical issues, starter won't shut off, and on and on it goes. So after researching every ones issues with the typical DIY installs, I called a friend and we designed a unit that does what it's supposed to do. This kit uses the Nissan Maxima Start/Stop Button, All functions of the button were retained (Lock, Acc, On and center button LED's work like normal) PLUGS INTO THE DATSUN IGNITION CONNECTOR!! External relays that are easily reached and replaceable if needed, A Start circuit box that is simple to install and only requires 1) connection from the button switch, 1) connection from the relay pack and ONLY 3) wires of the 6 wires need to be connected for full operation. The remaining 3 wires are optional, as is the Plug in Security Switch, which is very small and easily hidden within 3 Ft of the box. We've decided, after adding the price of all the parts, assembly, shipping and such, and Trying to keep it Very Competetive with other similar products and prices, The $170 w/ shipping included in the price, anywhere in the lower 48 States, was a more than fair price. For a "Plug and Play" unit, Made for the 240Z but compatible with MANY other vehicles, $170 is a Great price. The Nissan Push to start/Stop button will go where your Keyed ignition presently resides. The hole only needs to be widened about 1/16" and 2 slots be dremeled into the shell to lock it in the correct angle. (so the button doesn't twist in the hole) The Ignition switch Will Obviously need to be removed and the owner will not have a Locking steering column afterwards. Some of you will raise the concern of Security with a system like this. Totally understandable and is dealt with in a couple ways. If you already have an Aftermarket security system (Car Alarm) Almost all of them have a starter kill wire called a "Ground Output when Armed" and it is typically Orange in color. When the aftermarket alarm is "Armed" the Orange wire will have a Negative Ground output, which when connected to the Orange "Disengage" wire of the Start box, will stop all functions of the switch and circuitry. The other Security Option is a Simple Plug-In Micro switch. It plugs right into the Start box, has 3 feet of wire and is easily hidden within reach of the owner. It can be mounted in the center console, dash mounted, hidden in plain sight among other switches. So in conclusion. You can instal a Nissan Maxima Start/stop Ignition button into your S30 or other Datsuns. It will operate very similar to the Maxima. There are Security options. Only a few connections and a minimum of 3 wires to connect. The switch installs with minimal effort where your existing keyed ignition switch is. No more forgetting your keys in the ignition. Just unlock the door, put your keys back in your pocket. After more research, I have found only a few similar products. They are Complicated, Not made specifically for your S30, Way more expensive and include a manual that tells you to ONLY have a Certified Automotive 12 volt Specialist instal their product into your car. If you know how to use a Dremel, know where the brake pedal switch is and how to follow a wire from the distributor to the coil's Positive terminal, connect a wire to it and run it in thru the firewall to the steering column area and plug in matching connectors, Then you can do this in less than an afternoon. Below are some pictures and a video of the first run. The operations have been changed to more resemble the Maxima operation. press once to turn on the Acc. press again and it shuts back off. OR Press once to turn on Acc. Press and hold the brake pedal then press and hold the Start button until the car starts. Press the button again to shut the car off. leave the car. Car will not start unless the brake pedal is being pressed while pressing the button. if the pedal is not pressed the pressing of the button will only shut the Acc back off. I'll answer what ever questions you have. http://video.cardomain.com/VideoPlayer.aspx?id=2202506 The last picture is of the Instal Diagram that will be in the Instal Manual that comes with the kit.

If he just or recently moved up here and is need of some quick cash, then the plates and phone number make sence. Or he's selling for a friend? Who knows. Write the guy and ask. He's 40+ miles from me. And my schedule is pretty full this week. Dave

14.4 is about perfect. So your alternator is doing it's job. Next! When it comes to Datsun Electrical, I just use the basic "Process of Elimination" Eliminate the obvious and move on down the line. Major parts first (Alternator, battery and cables, fusebox and switches) the move to connections, fusable links, etc, etc. You'll get it. DEOXIT the connections and contacs, enlarge the Battery Cables to 4 gauge, Clean all your grounds and tighten them up, physically pull and replace fuses in question. You get the idea. That's how I learned what I know, from getting out there and doing the fun? stuff. Dave

that looks about right. Typically, the Alternator output, at the battery, should be around 14.5 at most. When an alternator starts to go out, you get 1 of 2 things, overly high output (15+ volts) which can and likely will fry the Voltage regulator) or they just drop out and quit working. So 15 looks a bit high. Has it been pulled and tested at your local auto parts store? Dave

OK, so I missed this one but after jonting thru the posts..... The MSA show is NOT what it used to be. A club hosted event is always best. I think the best bet for a West Coast show would be Southern Oregon or Northern California. Most of us Washingtonians have no real issue getting to Canby (Datsun Driving Canby Fun event in June of every year, in Northern Oregon) And if the show was as close as Northern California, I would at least make the effort to go, Especially if it was a Large event with 50 to 200 cars, more concentrated on S30, 280ZX and 300ZX. Lets face it, a "Z Show" of any kind would not likely be what it is if not for the Originators of the Z itself, THE 240Z. So I guess my vote would have to be "more centered on the S30" Are there any Clubs on the west coast who would be willing to actually host an event like this??

That's because the Headlights are a completely different circuit than the Taillights. The parking light circuit includes the Dash lights, side-markers, front markers and taillights. The brake lights are also their own circuit. If you can flip the switch a few times and they come on, then the switch most likely needs to be rebuilt. The lack of taillights tells me the same thing, the switch needs to be rebuilt..