Zs-ondabrain

Most likely a datsun 720, pick-up truck. They came with a NAPS motor. (Nissan Air Polution System) it has 2 spark plugs per cylinder and 2 coils. It's your basic Nissan motor for that style truck. I used to have one, It was an 82' 720 truck.

I think the white 280Z belongs to one of the ladies on the show. They used the car in their HOT WHEELS show as well. They lifted the back of the car with a fork lift so they could wrap the drivers side wheel with tape, and see how many MPH the hot wheels cars could handle before they lost control. Same episode with the HOt Wheels racing a Viper, down hill. Scale racing or something. pretty funny stuff.

On an after market radio (Pioneer, Alpine, Sony, Kenwood, etc.) Red = ignition (switched power) yellow = battery (constant power for memory and internal amplifier when on) black = ground (bolt it to the bolts on the tranni hump) Blue = external amp remote wire Blue/white = antenna remote wire Orange = dimmer wire (connect to dash lights to dim radio apon turning on dash lights). Pink = cell phone mute (for hands free kits, mutes radio when cellular signal is detected. White = front left speaker (+) White/black stripe = front left speaker (-) Grey = front right speaker (+) Grey/black stripe = front right speaker (-) Green = rear left speaker (+) Green/Black stripe = rear left speaker (-) Purple = rear right speaker (+) Purple/black stripe = Rear right speaker (-) If you plan on installing an aftermarket radio into a 240Z, none of the stock wires really matter except the one from the ignition (accessory position). Run a wire from a solid constant (white/red stripe on ignition) The antenna switch will not fit next to a DIN sized radio (DIN = 2" x 7") it'll work with a 2 pole radio. Picture below will show that here's no room for the stock antenna switch. There are aftermarket antenna's available that work great in the stock location. The Metra PW-22 fits beautifully, I have one. Pictured below. Just hook up the blue antenna wire to the blue wire on the PW-22 and it works great. Invest in a decent test light, test twice, connect once. Hope this helps a little. Dave.

I think I just grew a whole new respect for 'Ol Snoopy.

The very first time I got pulled over, was by a bicycle cop in down town Everett, WA. My muffler fell off and I was trying to get to a muffler shop. He let me go, to the shop nearby. Dave.

I just like the strength of 1/8" and it will have the folded edges like the competitor peice. Either rolled edges or folded and welded edges.

Like I said, Any one who wants to meet up with us at Jack In the Box on 85th and Aurora at 9:30am, is more than welcome. I figure who ever is there by 10:00 can go in with us, all together. So March 30th, Sunday, at 9:30am at Jack in the Box on 85th and Aurora. Dave.

I say 1/8" cause it's very strong and less likely to jiggle under vibration. Someone else mentioned chattering of the plate on the headers or carbs but I looked at my ste-up and there is PLENTY of room between the 2 of them. Stainless would be great but obviously more expensive. I'm thinking that the raw finish is nice enough, but being Aluminum, it can be polished to a nice luster to reflect the heat on the bottom side. Not to sure about the whole "Black on top" though. I, like most, like the shiny stuff under the hood. If it were painted of powder coated, would gas from the carbs ruin or take that finish off? If any of you are serious about getting one of these, Email me as mentioned above. I'll start a folder and when I have 5 orders, I'll email those 5 peolple witrh payment arrangements. Dave.

It felt like 10 but ya, it was a blast. Especially when we all had to do the U-turn cause of a goof. Was'nt that Gary? Can't remember but rain or not, the drive in was great, the pulling onto the grass one at a time, all lined up was like that new Suzuki Commercial. Dave.

So I spoke wioth my "GUY " today about the part, He said "that would be breeze, do you mind welded corners?" He wants me to take some measurements of the bolt patterns and figure a width and length and he said he'll build the first one for about $100 but after he sets up the computer jig, the rest would be about $50 each. My rough estimate on the size is 22" X 6" X 1/8" thick Aluminum Allow with about a 3 degree slant? That's off the top of my head. I just need to make sure that the material and gas (back and forth) and shipping is taken care of. SO if you have a Cannon Manifold with 40, 44, 50mm Webers, and you want one of these for your triple WEber set-up, I'll be taken pre-orders as of right now! email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com We'll go with the $80 plus $10 shipping for each one. But I need at least 5 paid orders for him to make a batch. Let me know what ya think. 1/2 price ain't bad, I know I'll be buying one, Especially before the MSA event. Dave.

I used 3M Strip Calk. It's a black calk that comes in strips that are like a tar, usually used for AC fittings thru the firewall. Water Proof, sticky, non hardening and won't freeze either. You get 60 feet (60-1 foot strips) for $16 3M strip Caulk at Eastwood Also hold emblems, weather stripping, seals holes, stops squeeky panels, etc, etc. I LOVE THIS STUFF. I also use it to reseal the taillight lenses to their back plate after I do the LED conversions. Better than the glue they use.

I have the BRE style spoiler and the problem did NOT change, at all. Here is one thing you can do. Get a smoke machine, a shop vaccum and some cardboard. Cut the card board to fit in the window opening with the window 1/4 of the way down. Cut a hole the size of the vaccum hose into the card board and slide the card board into the felt groove in the upper part of the window frame. Then tape the lower part of the cardboard to the upper part of the open window. Turn on the vaccum. Start the smoke machine and blow the smoke to the suspected areas and there ya go. Or have someone on the inside watching for the exact spot that the smoke comes in, while you're out side with the machine. I say all this cause I lit the tires up today and smoke came pouring out of the 1/4 window between the glass and the plastic window trim. Turns out the filler neck had a gap between the filler neck and the floor opening. Also check the Antenna drain hole on the drivers side rear quarter. JM2CW, Dave.

I actually have a material in mind, It's an aluminum Alloy that is very strong and ridgid. Which should minimize movement or chattering on the bottom side of the Carbs or Headers. I'll bring it up with my Metal fab guy and see what he thinks. Lately I've been doing trade work with him. His fleet of vehicles all need stereo's so he proposed me doing the instals in trade for the metal work he's doing for me now. I'll post when I hear something. Dave.

the headlight switch consists of a set of contacts. The first is for the parking lights and the second is for the headlights. The switch may be your colprit.?(spelling) As mentioned, check the fuses manually, by hand. replace them with known good fuses. Then with the headlights on, jiggle the combo (headlight switch) maybe even tap the handle a little to see if the contacts jump to a clean spot, meantime keep watching the front of the car for the headlights to flash or come on. If they flash or come on, it's time to rebuild the switches. I do that for a fee. Let us know how it goes. Dave.

And they carry the Stainless as well. Only problem is the hex head is usually 2mm bigger than I'd like. I needed the 10mm head bolts for the fenders on the lip that meets the hood, all they had was the 12 mead in the same thread pattern. But other than that, I love those guys too.

Part of my evil plan :devious: just trying to keep the makers and suppliers honest.

I use these guys. great resourse so far. http://www.tacomascrew.com/ 1-800-562-8192 Haven't used these guys yet but they seam resourceful. Lots of stainless supplies. www.jamestowndistributors.com

I thought about that as well but I like most would be more likely make my own, or find a better price, or weigh the price versus the benefit. Luckily, I have "A Guy" that makes this sort of thing. I truthfully believe that every manufacturer should have a competitor. If my guy can make them cheaper, I'll have him make a few and start taking orders. If he can make them for $40 or $50 each, I'll sell them for enough profit to cover my going back and forth to him and the post office and my time. I'm thinking $80 plus shipping (most likely under $10 in the Lower 48. Let me know what ya think. Dave.

When mine did something similar to that, It was the Bearings. Replaced then and it went away. Then followed up with the Full Urethane Kit. Don't forget to have your wheels ballanced every 6000 to 8000 miles, to make up for tread wear. Dave.

Kinda off topic, but, what is the year limit on emissions in California? In Washington, if your Basic Vehicle (passenger cars, truck, vans, SUV - under 8501 LBS) is 25 years old or older, you're Exempt from the emissions check. Just wondering, in case we ever move to SoCal or something. Dave. I cut, folded and bronzed my 78' 510 tubes (L20B) I was in a hurry and very inexperienced at the time.

Most likely the one he got from me. :stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

Looks great on there. I've been considering doing the same thing to mine. Heat is most likely an issue with mine but like that site says, 44, 47, 50mm carbs. Mine are 40DCOE Webers. Are the carb bodies that much different from 40 to 44? I think I'll have my custom metal guy take a look at it. Nice, very nice. Dave.

Eibach Progressive rate Lowering Springs KYB struts on Riken Raptor 225/50-ZR-16's 25" rear 25.5 front LOVE the ride, hard in the corners, decent to nice on the freeway, manholes and potholes in the road suck! but the suspension has enough give that it's not bone jarring. Other than that. I've never experience a better set-up than my present one (I've driven 15 different 240Z's) Dave.

Like Arne said, time for a good cleaning and lubing. I don't know what's all over the pivot arms but they look dirty. Lube all the pivoting areas and squirt a little on the springs as well. Sounds like a little maintanence will fix ya right up. When they stop working or start giving ya trouble, give me a buzz. Dave.

Unless you have plans to be in the area, I would'nt make the trip all the way up here Arne. It's NO Mnt Shasta Meet. It's alot of 240SX's, 350Z's, maximas and the like. Not exactly "our" cup of tea but it's one of those things that if you're in town, why not. It also a great way for all the local Z owners to meet up and get to know each other. You Oregon guys seem pretty tight nit because you have a lot more meets in your area. This is a great way for our neck of the woods to tighten up the group. With any luck, those of us who meet at the Golden Gardens meet can also plan on a "Who's going to MSA" drive. It'd be nice for Leah and I to have some company on the way down. Dave.