Zs-ondabrain

Like Tom said, look for a 2 wire plug that has a black wire and a red with a blue stripe wire. That's the plug ya want. Get another dimmer switch and try that. If it works with the new one, the old one was bad. Your best bet is to retrac your steps, when you unplugged everything, ya had to unplug something. Keep going. And besides, the more ya dig the more ya know and you'll be a big help to the next guy who has the same problem. Cause ya been there. Dave.

Sounds like one hell of a year Stacy. Sorry we fell out of touch for a while there but I'm happy to see your back. Life is what you make it from day to day so please keep your chin up and your eyes open, or life will pass ya by. Leah had all of her teeth removed this monday so she's getting used to learning how to re-say all her "S" words. She swore she'd stay indoors untill her dentures were made but she's learning that people love her with or without teeth. Give me a buzz sometime at the old email address (wolfin32z ) and we'll catch up. Dave.

the dimmer is usually located under the Tach but I know 240Z's, not 260Z's. I can imagine that it would plug into the Speedo, on any car. The plugs have to be there somewhere. keep looking. good luck, Dave.

I'd have to say that the solid is the earlier. Datsun probably found that the hollow was more affordable to make and conformed to the body easier than the solid one, so they changed it. Any one else??

not knowing the 260Z's that well, my best advice it to look for similar plugs in that general area. It most likely got disconnected in the fight to R & R the gauges. Dave.

The nice thing about doing the Euro LED conversion was each of the taillight pairs also came with the small bulb harness which literally showed me that the 2 top bulbs were 1157 dual element bulbs. That's how I came to my conclusion. we could be both right. who knows. normally, I'd say "not that important" but that's not that true around here. Dave.

I understand the selling of one or the other but even thought the 78 was stolen and recovered, it can't be that bad, or was it? or as Dr. Ruth says "do what feels right" Dave.

most likely a fuse problem. The parking lights are usually on the same circuit so if they are still operating, it may not be a fuse but the dimmer under the dash. Also known as a Potentiometer. It's 33 yewars old and you may have shorted it out in the process of the "swap". Check the other lights, the dimmer and ALL fuses in the fuse box, both visually and with a ohms meter. Let us know what ya find, Dave.

swapping parts from car to car will lower the selling price because you just made all those dings someone elses problem, and they're not likely gonna want to pay to have them removed or pay "fro" you dents. Fix the little problems by heating up the paint to keep it from chipping as you try an "pop" them out. jmo, Dave.

Like I said, "or 3" I've done 4 Euro LED tailight conversions on a 70', 71', 72', and a 73' All of which were from the UK and surrounding areas. I had to order yellow LED's because the amber LED's that I first ordered were crappy and NOT to my liking. Any ways, they all had upper brake lights, both upper bulbs on both sides. So in final, the "or 3" was more likely the case, being as how he had only one outer bulb operating. I can't imagine only one bulb per side as "useful and safe" when it comes to brake lights. Although that says nothing for newer cars............ Dave.

what ever you decide to do, either run an aftermarket filter on it or run it into the EGR valve on the ballance tube. If the valve has been removed and blocked off, make sure to run a filter or tube on the pipe that runs lower in the engine compartment then filter if. the picture below shows the filter on the valve cover and I use an identicle Larger one for the crank case pipe.

That "silver 240Z " video is old. It's on you tube and a few other places. He's also got 5 bad brake lights or 3, depends on the year. As for your reverse light problem, it's either a bad bulb, socket or a single wire. If one works then the problem is at the other unworking light. Dave.

They don't wave or notice cause they either...... 1) don't have a clue that the 240Z is the great grandfather of the Z and the car that started it all. 2) we're out of their league or vice versa. 3) they're too busy figuring out how all the bells and whistles work on their car to pay attension to the road. I see alot of older folks driving the 350Z's and younger guys (younger than me - 36) in the 300ZX's Every once in a while a get a nod from other non-S30 drivers. But funny enough is when I get good nods from Vette and Camaro drivers. Weird but true. and of coarse the typical "REV" from a ricer now and then. Dave.

Just ask Leah, I can't go ANYWHERE without getting Thumbs up, or the words "WOW, Nice ride dude, sweet Z man, or That's the best looking Z I've seen in years, Damn, ya don't see those very often and that ones NICE" Must just be the area. I actually got a note on my car the other day, while parked at the local "Fred Meyers" grocery store. My back window says "It's a Z thing, You would'nt understand" and some lady wrote me a note that said.... " OH I totally understand the "Z" thing, I left my husband of 10 years after he wrecked my 72' Z" She said "that was the last straw" and she was either gonna leave him or KILL him. Easier to leave and not have to hide the body, I quess. I can't go any where without compliments or nods, thumbs up, or little kids pointing and asking their parents what it is. Dave.

Weird, I've done a lot of business all through out Georgia. I've sold at least 15 to 20 HLH and PLH's in Georgia. Surprisingly, I see a couple per month around here. Lot of 280Z's too.

That's all fine and dandy DADE280, but don't come crying to us when ya burn your "peppy" and rip some skin on the tail pipe. :tapemouth Why not throw a tube onto one of the carbs. At least that way ya get some suckin action without the terror of 3rd degree burns. JMO, Dave

I was always under the impression that 12:00 was pointing at the radiator. Picture 1 and 2 are pointing at 3 or 9 O'clock. but not seeing the rotor on the dizzy throws me off. here's what I do, and you may have done the same but I don't have the time to read everything..... Piston 1 at TDC compression stroke rotor pointing at the radiator (12 O'clock 'ish) 1-5-3-6-2-4 CCW 2.5 turns on each carb but only as a starting base line. backfiring is from the carb being too lean, turn it out .5 turns Pertronics = no ballast risister, 12 and 12 = 12 volts starting and 12 volts running. or so I've been told. All this is probably been done but I wish I was there to help. A second set of hands and eyes always makes the job easier. Dave.

I can't think of any major diferences. So it should work. try it.

That is your basic electrolicis or corrosion. If you look into the opening for the thermastat housing, you'll probably see some more pitting. Time to Flush the whole cooling system and replace the head. New or good used head new intake/exhaust gasket flush the cooling system (buy a bottle of coolant flush, run it in the car for a few miles, then flush the cooling or take it in and have it flushed. put NEW coolant and water and maybe even an anti-corrosion additive. Winter is coming, don't mess with mother nature. Dave.

the wide viewing angle LED BA9s are brighter and are only $.98 each. That's only $11 plus shipping for all 11. Definately paint the insides white, and remove the green lenses. I am going to do the same but I'm also going to install the Whitye gauge face kit from MSA, it's about $60 plus shipping. That should be the best combo and the gauges don't have to be replaced. Race ya to the end.... I just need to order the face kit and install them onto each gauge. Dave.

Funny you should ask about the Bayonettes. I actually baught 10 of them a few months back. I was unable to remove the green lenses in all the gauges but for the ones that did have the green removed, they were much cleaner and about 30% brighter than stock. I bought the white wide angle, bayonette LED bulbs. I still need to pull each gauge, put in the white face gauge kit, remove the remaining green lenses, and put it all back together before I can give a true description of how they work and look. Dave.

Actually, it's pretty typical for the center vent to have a slight breeze of cold air, even with the levers turned to blow hot air. What happens is the center "Flap" has a foam pad that wears out over time. When I changed my heater core, I put some NEW foam around that Flap to minimize the cold air coming in thru the center vent. I'm not sure if the foam can be fixed without removing the side plate that holds the heater core in the large airbox assembly. And unfortunately, removing the side panel includes removing the heater hoses and cables just to start with. My best suggestion is to stuff some foam into the slots of the center vent. Maybe some 1/4" foam cut to 4" X 12" and slid into the center slot so that the foam ripples up and down like an accordian, blocking the air from freezing your hand when you shift. That's the best I can do for ya unless you wanna go the hard route and tear the whole thing apart and refoam the "center and side vents Flap" Dave.