Zs-ondabrain

not knowing the 260Z's that well, my best advice it to look for similar plugs in that general area. It most likely got disconnected in the fight to R & R the gauges. Dave.

The nice thing about doing the Euro LED conversion was each of the taillight pairs also came with the small bulb harness which literally showed me that the 2 top bulbs were 1157 dual element bulbs. That's how I came to my conclusion. we could be both right. who knows. normally, I'd say "not that important" but that's not that true around here. Dave.

I understand the selling of one or the other but even thought the 78 was stolen and recovered, it can't be that bad, or was it? or as Dr. Ruth says "do what feels right" Dave.

most likely a fuse problem. The parking lights are usually on the same circuit so if they are still operating, it may not be a fuse but the dimmer under the dash. Also known as a Potentiometer. It's 33 yewars old and you may have shorted it out in the process of the "swap". Check the other lights, the dimmer and ALL fuses in the fuse box, both visually and with a ohms meter. Let us know what ya find, Dave.

swapping parts from car to car will lower the selling price because you just made all those dings someone elses problem, and they're not likely gonna want to pay to have them removed or pay "fro" you dents. Fix the little problems by heating up the paint to keep it from chipping as you try an "pop" them out. jmo, Dave.

Like I said, "or 3" I've done 4 Euro LED tailight conversions on a 70', 71', 72', and a 73' All of which were from the UK and surrounding areas. I had to order yellow LED's because the amber LED's that I first ordered were crappy and NOT to my liking. Any ways, they all had upper brake lights, both upper bulbs on both sides. So in final, the "or 3" was more likely the case, being as how he had only one outer bulb operating. I can't imagine only one bulb per side as "useful and safe" when it comes to brake lights. Although that says nothing for newer cars............ Dave.

what ever you decide to do, either run an aftermarket filter on it or run it into the EGR valve on the ballance tube. If the valve has been removed and blocked off, make sure to run a filter or tube on the pipe that runs lower in the engine compartment then filter if. the picture below shows the filter on the valve cover and I use an identicle Larger one for the crank case pipe.

That "silver 240Z " video is old. It's on you tube and a few other places. He's also got 5 bad brake lights or 3, depends on the year. As for your reverse light problem, it's either a bad bulb, socket or a single wire. If one works then the problem is at the other unworking light. Dave.

They don't wave or notice cause they either...... 1) don't have a clue that the 240Z is the great grandfather of the Z and the car that started it all. 2) we're out of their league or vice versa. 3) they're too busy figuring out how all the bells and whistles work on their car to pay attension to the road. I see alot of older folks driving the 350Z's and younger guys (younger than me - 36) in the 300ZX's Every once in a while a get a nod from other non-S30 drivers. But funny enough is when I get good nods from Vette and Camaro drivers. Weird but true. and of coarse the typical "REV" from a ricer now and then. Dave.

Just ask Leah, I can't go ANYWHERE without getting Thumbs up, or the words "WOW, Nice ride dude, sweet Z man, or That's the best looking Z I've seen in years, Damn, ya don't see those very often and that ones NICE" Must just be the area. I actually got a note on my car the other day, while parked at the local "Fred Meyers" grocery store. My back window says "It's a Z thing, You would'nt understand" and some lady wrote me a note that said.... " OH I totally understand the "Z" thing, I left my husband of 10 years after he wrecked my 72' Z" She said "that was the last straw" and she was either gonna leave him or KILL him. Easier to leave and not have to hide the body, I quess. I can't go any where without compliments or nods, thumbs up, or little kids pointing and asking their parents what it is. Dave.

Weird, I've done a lot of business all through out Georgia. I've sold at least 15 to 20 HLH and PLH's in Georgia. Surprisingly, I see a couple per month around here. Lot of 280Z's too.

That's all fine and dandy DADE280, but don't come crying to us when ya burn your "peppy" and rip some skin on the tail pipe. :tapemouth Why not throw a tube onto one of the carbs. At least that way ya get some suckin action without the terror of 3rd degree burns. JMO, Dave

I was always under the impression that 12:00 was pointing at the radiator. Picture 1 and 2 are pointing at 3 or 9 O'clock. but not seeing the rotor on the dizzy throws me off. here's what I do, and you may have done the same but I don't have the time to read everything..... Piston 1 at TDC compression stroke rotor pointing at the radiator (12 O'clock 'ish) 1-5-3-6-2-4 CCW 2.5 turns on each carb but only as a starting base line. backfiring is from the carb being too lean, turn it out .5 turns Pertronics = no ballast risister, 12 and 12 = 12 volts starting and 12 volts running. or so I've been told. All this is probably been done but I wish I was there to help. A second set of hands and eyes always makes the job easier. Dave.

looks like he's ready for "take off" too funnyLOL

I can't think of any major diferences. So it should work. try it.

That is your basic electrolicis or corrosion. If you look into the opening for the thermastat housing, you'll probably see some more pitting. Time to Flush the whole cooling system and replace the head. New or good used head new intake/exhaust gasket flush the cooling system (buy a bottle of coolant flush, run it in the car for a few miles, then flush the cooling or take it in and have it flushed. put NEW coolant and water and maybe even an anti-corrosion additive. Winter is coming, don't mess with mother nature. Dave.

the wide viewing angle LED BA9s are brighter and are only $.98 each. That's only $11 plus shipping for all 11. Definately paint the insides white, and remove the green lenses. I am going to do the same but I'm also going to install the Whitye gauge face kit from MSA, it's about $60 plus shipping. That should be the best combo and the gauges don't have to be replaced. Race ya to the end.... I just need to order the face kit and install them onto each gauge. Dave.

Funny you should ask about the Bayonettes. I actually baught 10 of them a few months back. I was unable to remove the green lenses in all the gauges but for the ones that did have the green removed, they were much cleaner and about 30% brighter than stock. I bought the white wide angle, bayonette LED bulbs. I still need to pull each gauge, put in the white face gauge kit, remove the remaining green lenses, and put it all back together before I can give a true description of how they work and look. Dave.

Actually, it's pretty typical for the center vent to have a slight breeze of cold air, even with the levers turned to blow hot air. What happens is the center "Flap" has a foam pad that wears out over time. When I changed my heater core, I put some NEW foam around that Flap to minimize the cold air coming in thru the center vent. I'm not sure if the foam can be fixed without removing the side plate that holds the heater core in the large airbox assembly. And unfortunately, removing the side panel includes removing the heater hoses and cables just to start with. My best suggestion is to stuff some foam into the slots of the center vent. Maybe some 1/4" foam cut to 4" X 12" and slid into the center slot so that the foam ripples up and down like an accordian, blocking the air from freezing your hand when you shift. That's the best I can do for ya unless you wanna go the hard route and tear the whole thing apart and refoam the "center and side vents Flap" Dave.

I told someone a while ago about "twisting the metal door pin, while pulling towards you with a little pressure" It might have been you MEZZZ. I mention it every once in a while, so if it was to you, glad it helped. If it wasn't you, then every one who reads yours and my post will be better for it. I constantly have to do that to every 240Z that I put an alarm into, cause the door pins need to be operatable in order for the alarm to work properly. I made my own Dome light from LEDs that Will sent me a long time ago. Do you have a picture of the actual bulb? MSA only shows the lense over the LED light but not the light itself. Pictures please. Dave

first date with my NOW wife, foreplay all the way home (took the LOOOOONG way home. Got caught in the rain so we both hopped in the passenger side, Me-wearing loose slacks with the LONG zipper. Her-wearing a short skirt and Nuttin else. Thank god the Honda seats that I put in are fully reclinable. Much fun that night but would'nt try it again, almost needed a chiropractor the next day. Dave. God, I love short skirts.!!!!

still waiting for an activation code, what is the usuall time to be able to log on and upload? Been 10 minutes so far. Dave

one more try..... So I got it to work, FINALLY, BUT why do mine always come out small like this (below) and not large like above. And no Genetics jokes.

I'm not that familiar with the 280Z schematics but the headlight wire colors are the same. ZANTHUS, the white, 3 wire switch on the turn-signal assembly, is the headlights HI-LO switch. Make sure the the center wire is getting contact to each of the side wires with each flick of the switch. At the plugs, (Round white 3-wire plugs) either in the engine compartment or in front of the radiator, the red/white is the hi beam wire and the red/black is the low beam wire. On the right headlight plug the solid red is the power wire, on the left headlight plug the red/yellow is the left headlights power wire. The lo and hi beam wires are negatives when activated. Your BEST diagnostic plan would be to turn on the HI beams, and start pulling relays around the car, one at a time, till the highbeams go out. When they go out, you'll be in the right area to find the low beam relay. replace the lowbeam relay with the HI beam relay and see if the lo beams work. If they do, then find another relay (at Nissan or local auto parts store) and replace the bad one. My Headlight relay upgrade harness will do NOTHING for a system that does'nt work properly to begin with. The fuses in the fusebox are for Left and Right headlight, not hi and lo beam. JFYI. let us know what ya find. Dave.

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=000000&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2635000-2635999/2635267_4_full.jpg I must be retarded, I've tried everything but the obvious correct way.