Zs-ondabrain

I told someone a while ago about "twisting the metal door pin, while pulling towards you with a little pressure" It might have been you MEZZZ. I mention it every once in a while, so if it was to you, glad it helped. If it wasn't you, then every one who reads yours and my post will be better for it. I constantly have to do that to every 240Z that I put an alarm into, cause the door pins need to be operatable in order for the alarm to work properly. I made my own Dome light from LEDs that Will sent me a long time ago. Do you have a picture of the actual bulb? MSA only shows the lense over the LED light but not the light itself. Pictures please. Dave

first date with my NOW wife, foreplay all the way home (took the LOOOOONG way home. Got caught in the rain so we both hopped in the passenger side, Me-wearing loose slacks with the LONG zipper. Her-wearing a short skirt and Nuttin else. Thank god the Honda seats that I put in are fully reclinable. Much fun that night but would'nt try it again, almost needed a chiropractor the next day. Dave. God, I love short skirts.!!!!

still waiting for an activation code, what is the usuall time to be able to log on and upload? Been 10 minutes so far. Dave

one more try..... So I got it to work, FINALLY, BUT why do mine always come out small like this (below) and not large like above. And no Genetics jokes.

I'm not that familiar with the 280Z schematics but the headlight wire colors are the same. ZANTHUS, the white, 3 wire switch on the turn-signal assembly, is the headlights HI-LO switch. Make sure the the center wire is getting contact to each of the side wires with each flick of the switch. At the plugs, (Round white 3-wire plugs) either in the engine compartment or in front of the radiator, the red/white is the hi beam wire and the red/black is the low beam wire. On the right headlight plug the solid red is the power wire, on the left headlight plug the red/yellow is the left headlights power wire. The lo and hi beam wires are negatives when activated. Your BEST diagnostic plan would be to turn on the HI beams, and start pulling relays around the car, one at a time, till the highbeams go out. When they go out, you'll be in the right area to find the low beam relay. replace the lowbeam relay with the HI beam relay and see if the lo beams work. If they do, then find another relay (at Nissan or local auto parts store) and replace the bad one. My Headlight relay upgrade harness will do NOTHING for a system that does'nt work properly to begin with. The fuses in the fusebox are for Left and Right headlight, not hi and lo beam. JFYI. let us know what ya find. Dave.

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=000000&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2635000-2635999/2635267_4_full.jpg I must be retarded, I've tried everything but the obvious correct way.

the picture must be gone then cause I only see an "X"

very nice. But I have a question. How do you get picture on here like that? The only thing I've ever been able to do is "attachments" Help me out here. Dave.

well that sounds like a grounding problem. I'm not sure of the sollution but look for any crossed wires, bad grounds, corrosion, etc, tec.

The highly modified Z is the one they used the sound bites of my exhaust on. I have yet to play the game or see the Fairlady and hear my exhaust. Some day, Dave.

And now Daves take on the subject. Yeah First, The switch IS the most likely culprit. (Problem) If the rear is blinking and the front is not, The "Teeter totter" switch in the turn signal body isn't making contact completely. I know this for fact because my Z is doing the exact SAME thing at the moment. I rebuilt mine a long time ago, before I had spare parts to do it correctly. So it sounds like the switch needs to be rebuilt. Newer switch or not, using it will cause it to slowly slip out of alignment and possibly bend the rocker plate just enough for the rears to work and not the front. Second, The only other possible answer would be moisture or a bad ground at the right connection or corrosion in the light's socket. (ie: corrosion is stopping the ground from completing the circuit and allowing the light to blink? But I like the first explanation best. After you send me the turn signal, Pull the front bulbs and clean the bulbs and sockets with some red or green scotch-brite. It's a surface prep pad but it works beautifully on corrosion in the sockets and on the bulbs. Hell, If I were you, I'd take some time and do that to EVERY exterior bulb on the car. (side markers, tail lights and front turn/markers ) Afetr you clean then smear some DI-ELECTRIC grease on the bulbs and sockets. It's available in $.99 packets or 2 OZ tubes, at your local auto parts store. It's one of the cheapest things you can do to protect your lighting. 2 small packets will do the whole car. That's all I can tell ya for now, I'll know more after I rip into your T/S switch. But I still want you to check all the bulbs and connections up front. Look for corrosion and moisture. That di-electric grease can also be used on your plug connections, just like I use on the Headlight upgrade harness's terminals. Dave.

I always thought it was a dealer option, but I could be wrong. Dave (sometimes missinformed)

Most go with the MSD Blaster 2 coil. It's red and black and seems to fit the bill. I personally use the Mallory Promaster coil. It's square and puts out about 60K volts as compared to the usuall 30 to 40KV of the stock and blaster 2 coils.

does ANY ONE have the manual for the 40 DCOE 151 Webers with the "air bleed screw" (white caps) They seem to be next to impossible to find. I would REALLY appreciate it. Dave.

Marysville is in a "Convergence Zone" we get a lot different weather than Seattle, so when they get a light dusting of snow, we may get 6 to 8 inches of the crap. Then again, we can get sunshine when they (seattle) get rain storms. Go figure. Dave.

Thanks, I worked like hell to bring them back from the dead, they sat on a display motor for 7 years and collected quite a bit of dust and crap. unfortunately, I can't help ya on the linkage. The triples came that way. They were off of another Z from 10 years ago, so it was already set-up that way. They're actually a pain in the arse to adjust this way. cause each one offsets the other with each turn. Dave.

easy cheesy. You can do it with some string and a little patience. I pulled and reinstalled mine when I did the paint job in the garage. wrap the rubber seal around the glass, put a heavy duty string or 16 guage primary wire into the lip that the metal of the hatch would go into and over lap the string or wire by about a foot. Put the top half of the window onto the hatch, about 6" from the top, get the lip of the seal into the lip of the hatch, then slide the window forward and into place. Have a friend help you push down on the glass edge on the outside, while you're on the inside of the hatch, slowly pulling the previouly installed "rip cord". As you pull it out, it willflip the lip of the seal over the lip of the hatch and into place. USE glass cleaner as a lubricant to help things along. Or take it to a glass shop, if they break it, they bought it. Dave.

Glad ya like it. Most of the neighbors thought it was fricken hilarious. The elderly neighbors had a completely different opinion though. by the way. It was 7+ feet tall. That'll rip ya a new one

I live 35 miles north of Seattle, We get a crap load of rain and the occasional foot of snow. I don't like to drive the 240Z in the snow, but I do anyways. I was cut off 4 years ago and slid into a curb at a 20 degree angle and slammed into the curb with my right rear wheel. It snapped the lower control arm and strut assembly in HALF. Bent the spindle pin into a funky looking Z shape and ripped off part of the dogleg, which I found was fiberglassed by the PO years before I got the Z. Needless to say, I don't drive the Z in the city areas when it snows. Back and forth to the store, YES. but that's about it. Other than that, I drive her almost every day of the year. Just make sure you wash the underside and the wheel wells after driving in SALT covered roads. You'll be fine. Took the first picture from the Z while driving around in the Snow Dave.

If you're talking about the 2 wingnut style bolts that hold the lid of the aircleaner box to the carbs, I probably have a couple sitting around the shop. PM me your mailing address and I'll send it to ya. You decide if and how much ya wanna pay for it. Do you also need the adaptor nut that bolts the box to the carb, and accepts the wing bolt? Dave.

I would talk to ( VIPERREDLS1Z ) over at Hybrid Z. His name is Dave and he lives in southern part of Oregon and does those V8 conversions all the time. He races them also, so he could give you a real good idea of pros and cons of the V8 conversions in a 240Z. I just installed power windows and locks and a keyless entry system along with one of my parking light upgrade harness's into an LS2 converted 240Z. Very nice car and PLENTY of power. Very clean install as well. this is his Z. http://www.picturetrail.com/gid14620511

I used to be an installer at the local Car Audio Shop and I got paid $45 an hour (1 hour minimum charge) to push the "Lock Out" button at least 2 times a week. Especially on BMW's Please don't take this the wrong way when I say " I used to live pretty high on the hog because of that damn button" Dave.

How about hopping into the Z after a complete tune up, turning the key, motor turns over beautifully but no spark, no start, NOTHING!!. I hop out and check the cap and rotor. Nothing. I check the MSD and Coil, nothing. I hop back in the car for the fourth time and try starting it again. Turns over great, almost too great. I pound on the steering wheel and look to my right, Where the work bench is. There, laying side by side are 6 brand new spark plugs, gapped and ready to be installed. I never thought to check the plugs in the car cause "I just gapped them earlier, so they must have been fine" They were fine, just not IN the CAR!!! That was one of the easier stupid stories I have. Dave. I won't even get into the story of trying to start the van, 1 week after loaning the battery out to a friend. Took 1/2 an hour to figure that one out. And I'M THE ELECTRICAL GUY!!!!!

This is Buck. He's supposed to be a mid sized dog but we think he may have been cross bread with a German shepard or something. He is a Red Healer (same as Blue healer but Red. Australian Cattle Dog) He's a fricken NUT Case. But we love him.

I guess I was thinking "Old School" or something. Centerforce was the only thing on the top of my head. I havent really researched clutches in a long time. I'm usually only up on the things I need or really want. Dave.