Zs-ondabrain

Perfectly normal on almost any 240Z. Worry when it does'nt do it. There is a spring on the pivot arm and it makes noise when you flip the switch to off. The motor goes in reverse and the springs "Clicks" Kinda like a safety clutch. Dave.

Sounds great, where's the videos? Just thought I'd ask. Dave

I totally understand this one. The ONLY time that my Z has been damaged is when I was PARKED and NOT even in the car!!! The first week I owned my Z, An old man with a van (no rear windows) and a towball that stuck out over 12" from his bumper, backed into my front bumper, hitting it dead center and splitting the bumper in the middle. That's why I now have 2 corner bumpers instead of a full bumper in front. one year after that, in the SAME DAMN PARKING LOT!!!, A drunk in a HUGE 4X4 truck, backed over my Z's hood with his tow hitch (no ball, just the square hitch part) the pics are in my gallory and some of you probably remember me ranting and bitching about it. He dented the hell out of the hood, indented my radiator under the hood and drove away before any one could get his licence. At least the guy in the van came back and paid for a new bumper, even though I reused what I had. I talk on the phone while driving but I used the speaker phone feature so I can keep BOTH hands and eyes on the wheel. Dave.

Once again, not to sure of the Aussie diferences but the 240Z's all had front parking light/turn signals under the bumpers, under the headlights. The 260Z had them inside the grill area. 260Z=square T/S--parking light? inside the grill area 240Z=teardrop shaped, under the bumper 240Z=reverse lights in the taillights 260Z=reverse lights between tail light assembly and license plate 240Z early years had no shock absorber on the bumper, later year 240Z's had a frame mounted shock absorber, I think..... 260Z (as mentioned above) had skinny 240Z style bumpers thru mid production and then went to the larger 280Z style "Fat" bumpers and into the 280Z models. That's all I know and I may not be 100% positive but most of it is true, Dave.

Each harness has a protective vinyl sleeve that protects the harness where it goes thru the radiator support wall. ALSO there should be a bubber grommet around the hole where the harness goes thru the support wall, if it is gone or damaged, cut a length of 3/16" hose and split the hose down the middle, fit it around the diameter of the hole that the harness goes thru. This will keep the harness from shorting out on the metal there.

First off, you said that most of the lights were disconnected, start there.... Check each of the 2 wires that go to each side marker. If the wires are not connected to a socket, make sure they are not grounding out on the chassis or any other open ground (metal). Similar to what was mentioned above, remove all parking lights (front and rear) turn on the parking lights switch (first click), if the fuse still blows, you have a grounded wire somewhere. If the fuse does NOT blow, slowly insert one bulb at a time. If at any point, you insert a bulb and the light and fuse blows, THAT is your problem area. The only way that the combo switch could be a problem is if one of the wires are grounding on the switch chassis on the combo switch itself. You should have 15 AMP fuse in the fusebox for the parking lights (3rd fuse down on the right) DON'T FORGET that the dash lights are also part of that same circuit and if your dimmer switch (located under the tach area, under the dash) if bad, that could also be a trouble area. Parking light wires are green/white in the rear, green/blue in the front and red/blue for the dash lights. ALSO, Go to the auto parts store, get a light socket cleaner (cylindrical wire brush, DISCONNECT your batteries (+) post then clean ALL sockets, even the brake light and reverse light sockets. Wire brush the bulbs before you re-instal them, one at a time, as mentioned above, until the fuse blows again. Hope that helps a little. And P.S. This holds true and helpful for every S30. Dave.

The arrow is pointing at the wiper motor boot and the wires that go to the wiper motor. The single wire coming from that is obviously the original ground wire that had problem on the inside, so they grounded it directly to the battery's negative post.

I still have a set of completely rebuilt S.U.'s in the classified section if you're interested. here's the link, and I just lowered the price to only $400 with $25 shipping and $25 for the early heatshield if you want it with the set-up. Take a look..... http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2122 There are NO emissions on the ballance tube and everything looks almost new. Some minor adjusting is required after installing but that's typical on ANY new or rebuilt carbs being installed on a car. Let me know what ya think, Dave.

remove the top of the carbs (big round bell shaped peice) and check the seating of the needle. The best starting point is to hold the sleeve (with the needle attached) upside down, with the needle pointing upwards, the needle goes from pointy tip down to a thicker shape, it will then have a flat lip that should be level with the flat surface of the sleeve. If not, then loosen the screw on the side of the sleeve and use a flat metal plate or ruler to seat it flush and then retighten. Do this to both needles on both carbs and carefully re-install them back into the carbs, while paying close attension to how easy the sleeve rises and falls as you tighten down the tops. then replace the oil that came out when you turned the sleeves upside down. Pics should help Picture 1 shows how to adjust it, picture 2 is a decent picture of the same, picture 3 is showing how to raise and let fall the needle while tightening the top dome down. Dave.

what ever you use, try to find a paint that has elestic or some type of flexibility to is. Like a rubber based paint or something.. Reason I say this is I have painted a few grills and the end result is chipping from traffic and rocks etc. -OR- maybe even using a plastic protector that can be cut to size like those rock chip protection sheets they sell. Good Luck, Dave.

Some company, most likely MSA, told me that there is 11 or 13 variations of the 240Z engine harness. The outer area (inside the engine compartment) is basically the same with the exception of AC activation wires, passing relays on automatics, and a few other things like wipers (2-speed and 2-speed with the single wipe option, the technical term escapes me at the moment) The correct colored wires are available if you know were to look and most of the engine compartment plugs are available in a few select places. But the kicker is inside the passenger side compartment. Nissan changed alot of connectors on the inside but left the outer part alone. I don't know all the changes and Variants of the 240Z engine compartment but there can't be too many. Voltage regulator is another one. SOme 280ZX alternator upgrades done on the later 240Z's don't require the diode, and I don't know why. FWIW, Dave.

SORRY, I had the cam on Craigslist for 2 weeks and it just SOLD. Maybe next time, Dave.

Wait a minute, I'm confused. Does that mean "wussy is a good thing"? :stupid: Dave.

I did a job for a friend who owned a few Z's, he gave me the cam for a payment. He bought the cam for one of his Z's but wrecked the Z before installing the new parts that he bought. I already have a stage 2 cam, ceramic 6-into-1 header, 2 1/2" exhaust, Mallory Unilite Infra-red Distributor, MSD 6A ignition, Triple 40 DCOE Webers, and a couple other things. The cam really made a difference after the Header and ignition install. I LOVE the LOPEY sound and performance increase around 2500 to 5500 RPM. I get accused of having a V8 all the time while sitting at red lights. I accepted the Stage 2 cam as payment because I was gonna build another motor but the finances are shot after school shopping for 5 kids. Dave.

I have a new 480/274 stage 2 cam that I'll give ya for $75. That's half price from MSA. but like any stage 2 or higher cam, you'll need new lash pads and valve guides, or something like that. Dave.

They have no problem with people attending meetings. They ussually have meetings at open places like restaurants and over at Performance Nissan in Everett. There next meeting is on the Saturday, the 11th at the I.H.O.P. in Tacoma. Unfortunately, thats over 70 miles away from me so that's a no go. I won't do a 140 mile round trip to attend a meeting. That's what I was talking about before. Most of there meetings are just too far away to just "attend" for the act of just attending. They do the usuall "minutes, updates, treasury report, upcoming events, past event results, etc, etc. What we need is a more Northerly club that's affiliated with other clubs or of our own. That would include a webpage (interactive would be nice), Sponsors, Meeting places, treasurer, etc. Track days at Monroe fairgrounds (Evergreen Speedway) I know a guy. Maybe a once a month meeting at a central Agreed apon place. The general mmeting place should probably cater to north end folks like Everett, Lynnwood(south), as far north as Bellingham (north), Monroe (east) and the Island counties. (west). I guess I'll start working on the details but if you have any input or ideas, members, sponsors, etc, shoot me an email at wolfin32z@yahoo.com Dave.

Went to the MSA Z Nationals in California last year, and averaged over 28 MPG At the time I had the following (original motor, 160,000+ miles, S.U's, 6-into-1 header, and ZX ignition (E12-80), Stage 2 cam (480/280) 2 1/2" exhaust.) That was a 2400 mile round trip. Dave.

Please don't get me wrong, I just did'nt feel at home when attending a meet or meeting. The drives and events were great, the people were pretty nice too. Call me crazy but I just felt out of place, probably cause I was'nt part of the usual "Click", ya know? Being a father of 5 and having a wife with Epilepsy causes me to be somewhat of a "Homebody" So I don't make it to very many meetings or events. I love ALL Z's but I'm VERY partial to 240Z's. Maybe if there were more 240Z's I'd have a more cheery statement. But that's just me. I even went as far as offering discounted prices on My harness's, ZX adaptor plugs and led conversions and did'nt get an inkling of attention, questions or inquiries about the upgrades. Not a single one. And at that point, I'd NEVER met someone or even a whole group that wasn't even the slightest bit interested in the upgrades. They did, however, like the LED tail lights and side markers. Weird? I guess I need to quit my bitchen and find as many S30 owners as possible and set up a date for all of us to just sit around and BS about the cars, share idea's, exchange info and go from there. That's pretty much the idea of Every car club but it usually outgrows it common factors because of the needs or wants of it's members. There aren't that many Z car Clubs in WA. state so it limits the free time that each individual member has to contribute to said events and meetings. I myself can't always get to meetings or attend every event or even afford half of that, but it's nice to know that an upcoming event or meeting just might match my criteria or schedule. JM2CW, Dave.

I've been a member off and on for a few years. We went the "Meeting of The MindZ" camping trip over in Oak Harbor about 3 years ago and we (Me and the Wife) also went on the "Wine Tour" over in Eastern Washington last May or June with about 10 other People from ZCCW. Not a bad group of guys but more into everything but the classics. They are a tight nit group of folks who are more interested in being a group than being concerned with Preservation and everything you'd think a Z car Club should be. Some of the events are nice or even great but I won't pay $50 a year to be ignored when I, in fact have a classic Z that started it all and seem to be ignored unless I've contributed greatly to the cause. Don't get me wrong but I've heard more bitching about ZCCW than compliments. Who knows, you may fit right in and be welcomed with open arms. But I felt like an outsider looking in as everyone sat around discussing the next big money making event. There are a few execptions to the rule like Dwayne? who owns a beautiful silver 240Z, that has been in Nissan Sport Magazine and he is one of the main organizers and there are a few others who I don't mind BS'ing with but that's just me. Hang out with them at a meeting and judge for yourself, I never let someone elses opinion make up my mind for me. Dave.

Yes, correct. But just remember that by running a power wire from the alt (+) post to the Starters (+) post, you actually end up almost completely bypassing the amp meter. Alt to fuse box, fusebox to amp meter, amp meter to fusebox and starters positive post. It splits before the fusebox then goes to both the fusebox and the starter. So in essence, the ampmeter is getting voltage on both of it's leads, from the alternator. But the way I did it charges the battery better and thats where most of my accesories are powered from (directly from the battery). Dave.

What ever it turns out being, just remember that it's 37 years old. No matter what you do with the exception of new rings and a bore job, it'll smoke. Actually, it may be just the head but when you get on it and it smokes, that ussually determins bad rings and oiler ring. Who the hell know what the Previous Owners put that car through before you got it. Mine has smoked for the last 5 years. And I have Great compression on all 6 cylinders and the head has been replaced with an E88 out of a 73' Z and it was in great condition before the swap. I don't foresee you spending $5000 in the motor unless you plan some serious upgrades. Congrats on the purchase but remember that the carbs control fuel and have nothing to do with oil other than the burning of it when it's mixed with fuel. Dave.

actually Steve (Madkaw) that diagram is very useful. It shows a 10 amp fuse and that lets me know that the 14 gauge wire will be sufficiant for the activation wire I plan to run. Thanks guys. Dave.

Not exactly a dangerous thought, Figure it this way, I did'nt experience an overheating connector problem for quite a while after installing the 60 amp alternator. If the 60 amp fuse were to blow, which it most likely won't, you should still have your fusible link at the starter which will protect it from that point on. As far as I know, there is supposed to be a fusable link at the alternator, for such an occasion. If there is a surge or short, it too will "pop" and everything will go dead. But just remember that it's better to have the fuse and or fusable link blow rather than have things melt or catch on fire from over-use or shorting out. You should'nt have any problems unless you try and use EVERYTHING all at once. Which I don't suggest on ANY car. I figure it this way, it's a 37 year old car and if anything is gonna fail, it's gonna fail big. There's nothing wrong with being over protective when it comes to a classic like the Z's. Dave.

I know the guy that makes them, He lives in Everett, WA. They are top notch items and he puts a lot into them. They are pricey but he's also put alot of his own money into making the them available to all who are interested. Dave.

I'm still waiting for the customer to figure out which Compressor he wants but I guess I could run a wire to both sides of the engine compartment. But as long as it's just a contact or activation wire then it should be no big deal to run it to both sides. If it were a power wire, that actually carried amperage, then it would be a whole different story. Larger guage to the passenger side and kick it down a notch as it traveled to the drivers side. Thanks alot guys, this has been helpful, now I just need him to make up his mind and I can finish this thing. I'll let him "chime in" when he makes up his mind or brags about the harness. Thanks again, Dave.