Zs-ondabrain

Fish as in sqeeling tires? or fish as in the rear end is wiggling around? If it's the 2nd question, check out the bushings and bolts on the lower control arms in the rear. I had a problem once where I would hit the gas and the car would kick sideways and back when I let off. turns out one of my huge lower control arm bolts was GONE. The whole wheel was floating on the front diff mount and strut nuts. ya never know till ya get under there. Dave.

My Pleasure! It was a nice change having a challenge like the ones you sent me. You'll notice that there were 2 of the same item in the bag, because I broke one same as you did. Took me 3 tries to get it right. Make sure you give a shout out to those who have donated parts to me for the sake of others. Those donated parts are what helped me help you. Glad to see you're happy with the service and the end result. Dave.

So you guys are sweet and innocent angles? You've never taken something for nothing? Never Borrowed something permanently? Ever got back too much change for something you bought and did'nt say anything, even after you realized it? Let he who is without sin, cast the first stone. Nuff said. And if any of you who critisized him think your perfect or guilt free, think again. Dave. Now say sorry, congradualte him on finding and rescuing a very rare part and get on with your lives. As for the Z-GODS, they too are happy that the part is in better hands and will be reserected from certain doom. PS, Nice find and rescue FailadyZS30

either way, he's still an arse. or maybe I am. The 350Z was designed by americams and that's what he does'nt like.

You obviously have different wear in the domes and on the dash pots. The amount of oil as well as the weight of the oil (I used 5/20 weight in mine) will determine the speed of rise and fall on each dash pot. remove the domes, and the dash pots, inspect both springs, clean them both (dome and dash pot) with carborator cleaner (spray) then reinsert the dash pots. place the domes back on top and slowly insert one screw at a time, while lifting and letting the dash pots drop as you snug each screw down. If at any time, the dashpot slows or scrapes, the dome needs to be re-adjusted by turning it back or forth (clockwise or counter clockwise) Also try snugging one screw, testing, then do the opposite corner, then test again, then another screw until all four are down and the dash pot stil moves freely in the dome. After both carbs are done, slowly add oil to each cylinder, a few drops at a time. The key is to add oil till it rest inbetween the 2 lines on the dipstick. Test the rise and fall again, a few times, they should be the same at this point. If one takes longer to fall, add 2 drops to the other (faster moving) dashpot. The oil creates a smooth operation of up and down movement. each carb wears differently to you need to adjust accordingly. Remember that the domes can become warped from heat and overtightening over a period of time so you need to check them and re-adjust them every once in a while. Hope that helps, Dave.

That guy is an arse and does'nt like ANYTHING American. The best short video he could make would be him being ran over by a Z, of any model. Dave.

I don't think I have jumping spark in the cap, but then again, I don't have a clear cap to see thru. Everything seems to fire correctly. I actually DO melt spark plug tips, so I change plugs about 3 or 4 months. IF the only difference between the BP6ES and the 11's is gap size, I'll stick with the non 11's cause I have to regap to .065 anyways. As for the Carter P4070, get a regulator anyways. They are about $25 and a good secondary set-up just in case you get too much flow or pressure. Dave.

What is the difference between the BP6ES and the BP6ES 11 plugs? I have the MSD 6A, Mallory Unilte and the Promaster coil. But I use the regular BP6ES. what would changing to the 11's do for me and why. Dave. EDIT. Never mind. DUH. just read it.

When I got my new (to me) Webers, (40 DCOE 151's) they did'nt come with air horns. If anyone here has 6 or less short air horns for my Webers, I'd really apreciate it. I will pay you for them but I'm on a budget so please be nice. Contact me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com if you have some or all 6 to offer me. Thanks in advance, Dave.

I have the MSD 6A with the MSD tach adaptor. I also have the Mallory Unilite Distributor and the Mallory ProMaster Coil, which puts out about 60,000 volts. My gap is set at .065 because my spark can shoot over 6 inches of white lightning. I know for a fact that it'll shoot 6 inches cause it got me in the arm from 6" away and I thought I was gonna have a fricken heart attack!!! Just make sure you use nothing Less than NGK 6ES plugs. I have the stock L24 with E-88 head, stage 2 cam (480/274 grind) triple Webers (40DCOE 151's) and MSA Ceramic 6 into 1 header. Dave.

YES, the bushings fit into the copper plates then slide inbetween the chassis and the switch bodies. Simply put, The bushings just help isolate the copper terminals from grounding on the chassis body or the switch body. Dave.

STill need to put that other bushing into the other wire. The bushings are use to seperate the wiper fluid and wiper contacts. IE: when you push in on the fluid button on the combo switch, the fluid squirts and the wipers make a swipe or 2. Those bushings go on the blue wire and the black wire, where they bolt up to the switch body. Put the bushing thru the metal tab on the blue wire where it bolts to the C/S body, then put the metal box (Parking light and headlight switch) back on over the plastic bushing. Same thing on the other side, the bushing goes into the metal tab at the end of the black wire, then it slips between the wiper switch assembly and the big metal chassis. I'd show you exactly where it goes but my mom borrowed my digital camera. Try pushing the wiper fluid button and see what happens. you may not like the results. I just rebuilt two late 73' combo switches today, I know exactly where they go. One on each side of the white plastic plate. Dave.

That's fricken AWSOME. I watched it about 10 times then came back here to say THAT'S FRICKEN AWSOME!!!! I want that motor. period. sign me up, i'm in.

Moritz55, Your switches are Done, And while repairing them, I found out why no matter what you tried to do to make them work, would'nt have worked. The carrier plate that holds the 2 spring loaded plastic bullets, looked OK, but had a small finger missing. The finger or tab in question is 1 of 2 that keeps each bullet from falling out of the hole when you turn the parking lights on. So it would appear to be working but the first or second time you flip the switch, the bullet would fall out and no longer operate the switch. ALSO, one of the plastic bullets had a flat spot on it so I replaced it. The extra money you put in not only covered that but also the C/S and Parking light Metal housing. one of the tabs was broken off and another fell off in the removal of that housing. I tested and retested the switch, and everything works beautifully. I even got a 0.000 reading so it's as good as new. I also got rid of all the old burnt on grease and replaced it with new grease. They operate great, and not sluggish like they were. I tested it before the cleaning and they were pretty crudded up. The turn stalk kicks right back like new. I'll ship them out tomorrow morning along with Pete Houssler's switches, which were almost identical to yours (delayed wipers and all.) Dave.

OR....... Send the switches to me and I'll rebuild them both for only $40, for the pair. Arne is correct, The slide switch on your blinker assembly is most likely not making contact. I just went thru the same thing on my car. Jimmy Z is also correct in the fact that the plug on the right kick panel could need a nudge or 2. corrosion and grounds in the Z's are funny that way. If your interested in the service, email me at wolfin32zYahoo.com Dave.

Early 73' (3/73' and earlier (to late 69') will have a 2x6 plug. anything after 3/73' will be the 3x3 smaller plug.

I'm working on a set as today, so the tools will be out and ready for when your set shows up. I'll get on them ASAP and hopefully get you back on the road for some night driving. Dave.

I still make the 280ZX alternator adaptor plug (ZXP) for the 240Z's, if that's what ya mean. They are $15 and I'll give ya the rest of the info if you email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com Here's the info page. http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/extras/alt-adapt.html Dave.

I have the same set-up in my 70' (8/70') and have been told that the body mount rear sway bar is better but that's on later models. I have the 19mm on the rear and the 23mm on the front, Energy Suspension urethane end links and mounts. Made all the difference in the world when I installed it. Love 'em!! Dave.

Try this link out, it has everything SU related that you EVER want to know. http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/index.html Dave.

Here is a link that saved my life when it came to SU's. http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/index.html The best one on that page is the 2nd one down (Blue square) with Tech Tip #6 in the square. It rocks when it comes to everything SU. Good luck, Dave. I also just realized how old this thread is

I just took these pics about 20 minutes ago, Showing the updated linkage and fuel supply. New Spectre regulator and meter. and some Spectre SS and anodized aluminum parts. Also shown is 1 of 2, 4-screw carbs that I am completely rebuilding to spec. When I am done, the carbs, Linkage and intake with balance tube will be completely rebuilt and look almost new. Like you see on Z Theropy. They will be a complete bolt on ready set and I'll sell them for $500 flat plus S/H. Probably about a week before I'm done. Dave.

I got another question for ya. Why did you put springs on the linkage bar? Anti vibration or something else? I had to modify my linkage as well but it'll be hard for you to tell unless I point it out, which I won't do. I guess I got lucky with my carb connectors, I just use one push rod to move the front and the rest of them follow suit. Here are some pics but I don't have any good close ups yet. I'll post those later on. I've only had them for about 3 weeks and still need to tune them up better. Mine are 151's and the Weber book I bought does'nt cover 151's or 152's. SO I need the other tune up book just to find out what the white capped air bleed screws do. Unless someone here wants to link me to a page that covers tuning up a triple set of 40DCOE 151's. Nice set up though, I know I love mine. P.S. The pics below are from last week, I just installed an electric fuel pump, regulator and mini meter and also remodified the linkage cause I found the smaller linkage needed. Dave.

I figured it was the switch but it never hurts to refresh your grounds. Don't forget that I still do the C/S T/S service for $40. I rebuild what ya send me. $40 for each set (1-T/S switch and 1-combo switch) I promise to make them as new as possible. them send them back. It's what I do. Dave.

Took the words right out of my mouth Carl. I was just getting ready to write something similar about the Blue Bird and the Fairlady being the domestic name and being changed to 510 and 240Z for the US market for fear of rejection of such a feminette name. "The US market is more likely to accept things like Chevy 350 or Mustang 289 over a Bluebird or FairLady. But when you change it to 240Z or 510, the whole viewpoint changes. Similar to the 350Z or 240SX over the names Skyline or Sylvia." Read something like that in an import magazine. Kinda stuck in my head cause I've had to explain the same or similar question from other interested parties. Dave.