Zs-ondabrain

The welting is what holds the weatherstripping onto the body. Nissan was smart enough to not just trust the glue. Start in the upper corner, near the quarter window. Place the rubber into the corner and grab the smaller of the 2 weltings. push the welting into the corner over the thin layer of rubber that is over lapping the thin metal seam. Then work your way down the quarter window, and on down to the sill plate. The weather stripping should end half way across the bottom. Then move onto the upper corner again and use the longer welting to do that one. I use a rubber mallet for this particular weatherstripping application. Trust me, your hands will thank you later. USE CAUTION AROUND THE DASH AREA!! There is NOT a lot of room there so you may want to slowly use the handle of the mallet to press the welting in there or use your fingers. Sorry about the pictures but they might help. I just got done putting in my door weatherstripping as well. Good luck Dave

Just a quick update.. YES. I STILL MAKE THE 1) HEADLIGHT RELAY UPGRADE HARNESS'S. THEY ARE $125 2) PARKING LIGHT RELAY UPGRADE HARNESS'S. THEY ARE $37 3) 280ZX ALTERNATOR ADAPTOR PLUG. THEY ARE $15 4) COMBO AND TURN SIGNAL SWITCH REBUILD SERVICE. IT IS $40 ($5 INCREASE BECAUSE OF SHIPPING) 5) L.E.D. TAIL LIGHT CONVERSION. STILL $225 6) VERY SOON I WILL BE DOING ENGINE HARNESS REPAIR, SERVICE AND UPGRADES AS WELL AS BUILDING BRAND NEW ENGINGE HARNESS'S STARTING WITH THE EARLY 240Z'S. (NO SET PRICES YET.) BUMP Dave.

I second and third that!! Once it's on leave it alone. Kinda like a scab, don't continue to pick at it. Take the advice and leave it alone. Buy NEW boots. Spit on 'em, put them on and walk away. nuff said. Dave.

just remember that most rubber can be petrolium based. And when you put a petro product on it, it breaks it down and tries to blend with it. You should'nt need ANY lube to install those and if you MUST apply something, USE WINDOW CLEANER!! It has a soapy, slick surface and evaporates when your done. Kinda like when apply window stickers or Vinyl graphics.. JM2CW, Dave.

I don't know how I missed this one but if you remember when I was offering a foglight upgrade with the headlight harness, I mentioned the wires in front that you pointed out. I also supplied a micro-switch with the upgrade that allowed you to tap into those wire and they ended up going to My relay pack then back to the foglights. This way you could use your combo switch to power the microswitch and now have to run extra wires out the firewall. Just wanted to throw that in there, cause I can. You know me. And Great write up by the way!!! JM2CW Dave.

That looks pretty thick. Try a good old fashioned heat gun and peel your woes away. Kinda like peeling a good sunburn. It can be fun for the whole family. See how big of a peice you can get without it tearing off..... I removed 80% of the previous owners 3 paint jobs with a couple of swipes with my heat gun but make sure you wear some tight cloth/rubber coated gloves. Unless you have calless's like mine. It can get pretty darn hot at times. OR.......... take some packing tape, you know? the real strong clear tape and rub it on good then rip it off quickly..... I learned that one by accident. But it worked pretty damn well, unfortunately for me. Good luck.

OK, I found it. It's from a company calle TRIMBRITE and the product is called BODY GUARD. It comes in a 5 7/8th" X 12 feet roll. It's clear and smooth and they also offer black and textured The part number is T9020 and it's available at Schucks. or Krager or Checker )Auto parts. You might be able to buy online cause it's about $16.00 at schucks. But I think of ALL the man hours put into fixing what this product prevents. No contest. http://www.trimbrite.com/PDFs/Catalog14-15.pdf It's in a PDF form but it tell you the same and has a picture. Here's there home page. Go to "Product/Catalog" Then click on the "specialty and repair 2" link. but make sure you check out their other stuff as well. http://www.trimbrite.com/ Dave.

That's exactly what I was TRYING to say. It just came out different. But at least I had a clue what I was talking about. I think? when I said to give a tug, I was refering to the cables sliding thru all the dash stuff. Loose like tenticles. Then when you re-install the face, just guide the cables in the right direction and then pull the cable thru to help snug up the dash plate. Or something like that. Dave.

couple things.... There are 4 cables on a 240Z, but you did'nt mention what car you have. There is also a Map light that needs to be removed and unplugged there are 4 screws on the face plate, one on each corner there are 2 ways for the speed switch, unscrew it or just unplug it. As for the fuse. There is a plastic fuse holder on the right side of the center console. Sometimes they over heat and loose connection. I think it's a Blue wire going into that fuse. It's jumbled up with all the other fuze box wiring inside what is normally a vinyl cover. You may need to replace the fuse holder and also check the 2 wires above the blower motor. I think they are red and black. That should start ya off in the right direction and after all the control cables are disconnected from there seats. they ussually like a bit of a tug. Some are held in place by wire clamps. (plastic covered metal that bends over the wires) good luck Dave.

just found these on craigs list. don't know if they are still there or not. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/288415921.html

As for the front spoiler. Go for the ABS one, like mine. They take one hell of a beating and if your Z is still at stock hieght, you definately have NOTHING to fear. My Z has been lowered 1.5 inches and The only time I hit something is when I pull up to the local 7-11 and bump their high curb. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1411 And the good news is, The ABS (Xenon) spoiler bounces right back. If you have it painted, make sure they use a little extra Flex additive in the mix. Also, I found Anti-chip film at the local auto parts store (Schucks/Krager/Checker) and I think it's from 3M. It's peel and stick Clear plastic film (8"X 12') and costs about $16.00 .....FYI..... Here's the link.... Dave.

well see there, I just haven't run across that particular problem before. My fusable link has never been bad and I've never dealt with it being unplugged. So like they, "you learn something new EVERY day" Thanks for the info. "Click click, Stored" :classic: :classic: If I miss-informed, I do apologize. I've been up since 3am this morning (Wed.) and I normally don't get up till 8:30 or so.:nervous: Dave. "but Master, where did the pebble go? "one day Grasshopper, you will know"

OK so the question is still this. What are you gonna do with the front? Spoiler or stock? Reason I ask is the spoiler will run you under $200 in most cases. The 2 front corners and the center vallance will likely be more, all depending on where ya get them.

What are you gonna do for the front end? Back to original or go with the fiberglass or ABS spoiler? 2 new light buckets, 1 fender, couple doglegs, little sheet letal here and there. And your good. However, you need to drop the hood bra so you can see the damage there. The frame still looks decent and the radiator support can be dolly'd out. Believe it or not, you're actually lucky that the damage was'nt more severe. JM2CW Dave.

I haven't read all 7 pages but wanted to know what's this one gonna run. $$$