Zs-ondabrain

THe play should be VERY minimal if any. Sounds like your rebuilt unit was'nt rebuilt correctly. What is the road like when it pulls to the left?? reason I ask is on the freeway my Z pulls according to the grade of the road. For instance, when I'm in the left (fast) lane and the road is angled down on the right (for water run-off) the car pulls to the right. It also would'nt hurt to have the brakes checked out for drag. My right side brake pads drag some times and pull my car to the right. Hope any of this helps, Dave. P.S. check out my new cowl hood that I just built. it's in my gallery and on the front page, waiting for aproval.

Just thought somebody here would be interested in a new (never-used) set of S.U.'s on E-bay. The bid starts at $150 and there is a reserve. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-New-SU-Carburetors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ019QQitemZ290045835534QQrdZ1

I KNOW DARNIT!!!! THAT'S WHY I WANT A SET!!!

This is SOOOOO not fare. I want some too.....

I have a 23 MM bar in the front and only a 19mm bar in the rear. The difference between having a rear sway bar and not was phanominal. Definately add the rear sway bar. I do some hard cornering and let me tell ya, It's nice to take a corner and NOT have your wheels rub on the fender.

OKAY!, I just got back from Wesco and talked to Justin, Great guy and very customer service oriented. He said that she (the person I called earlier) quoted me for the real high end stuff. So I opted for the middle of the road paint and only 1 quart of it. The total cost for him to research it and make me up 1 quart of chrysler red will be about $50.00 I informed him that I was going to clearcoat it with the OMNI Diamond Clear and he said that I could even go with the low end paint cause the Omni was excellent clear coat and would provide great protection of the cheaper paint. There ya go. Great color and protection on a poor mans budget. Plus he'll keep the ingredient list for when I can afford some more to finish the rest of the car in the same identical color. All together, it should only cost about $250 for all the base and clear for the whole car.

I'm waiting for a reply from Dupli-color before I make any rash decisions here. I wrote them and roughly asked the same questions, How much, is it available in gallon form and where can I get it. We'll see, and I'll post it here after I hear back from them.

I'm guessing that you have a stock manifold and are looking for a replica exhaust for your Z. Nothing fancy or over-sixed?? I have a ceramic coated header from MSA and just had a brand new exhaust system put on in March. They installed brand new 2 1/2" pipe with bend and new hangers and a chrome tip (for looks). They also installed a new Raptor Turbo Muffler that I purchaced for $20 on sale at (Schucks/Krager/Checker). The whole kit and caboodle cost just over $330 I think they got ya on that one. Next time try the little independant shops. In my experience, they take better care of their customers and don't charge the Corporate prices. JM2CW, Dave.

Alright all you brainiacs, WHY, OH WHY does red paint cost more than any other color??? I just got off the phone with Wesco Autobody Supply here in the Everett area and the gal said that RED cost more than any other color. She could'nt explain it to me but I'm guessing the there are so many variations of red that it is more difficult??? I am going to paint my Zcar Dupli-Color Chrysler RED (DE 1632 Chrysler Industrial Red) It turns out that it's an EXACT match for the 905 color code on my 70 Z' I bought a spray can of it and painted a small panel and matched it up to my fender. It is a 99.8% match to the faded redish/orange color on my car. Can someone find me that color in a gallon for a lot less than $350?? Thanks in advance, Dave.

The fuse goes inbetween the battery and the firewall, if there is a short at the firwall, the fuse will pop and keep you from having a meltdown in the engine compartment. Same goes for any other short between the battery and the amp. Amp wire from a KIT is used because it is usually oxygen-free and oil and gas resistant. The multiple strand wire allows it to be more flexible in and around the car, where as your "hardware store" wire is usually low strand and very stiff. Make sure that when you ground the amp's ground wire, you grind of the paint to expose the metal. This will give the best ground possible. FYI, Dave.

If any body around here knows Z cars and there history, It's Oliver (The Z-MAN) And he says it'is NOT an original. Oliver is a good friend of mine and knows his stuff.

I am an Audio Professional and even you guys got ME confused. TOO much to reach and you lose the point. 1) The Sony 1000 watt amp will be JUST FINE. It's a sony and at that price, there is NO WAY you will get a TRUE 100 watts out of it. NO worries of blowing up the subs from too much power. No worries about under powering the subs. 2) Like speedy blue said, Bridge the amp to get the max power out of it and drop the load down to 2 ohms. Usually achieved by using the left channels positive and the right channels negative. unless it is a D-class amp, at that rate, it's already done for you. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!! 3) on the speakers, you'll want to connect the Positive from the Amps left channel to positives on BOTH speakers and the amps right negative to the negatives on both speakers. This will give 2 4ohm speakers a 2 ohm load at the amp. 4) make sure you set up the cross-over on the amp. many buttons, lots of choices. Turn the gain knob all the way down, then turn the stereo up as far as it will go, then slowly turn up the gain untill the subs start to distort, then back off on the gain a little. That will keep you from EVER over powering the subs and keep the sound clean as you turn it up, even all the way. hope this helps a little, Dave