Zs-ondabrain

not sure on the 280Z but it's usually like this... Black is ground Green w/ white stripe is parking lights Green/red is turn signal If there are three wires, one is ALWAYS a ground. One is parking light (turn on the parking light and find that wire. You get the idea. Wiring is pretty damn basic, even in a 76'. Just use the "process of elimination" Hope that helps, Dave.

Like Ma always said, "if you don't like the answer, don't ask the question" Keep in mind that attitude is EVERYTHING. If your attitude sucks, so will the answers. Patiences are a virtue around here and if you don't have patiences, you're driving the wrong car. You get more bee's with honey than vinegar JMO

follow that high beam wire from the engine compartment into the car. Follow it al the way to the switch. Double check the output side (hi beam) of the switch. Remember that an ohms meter is your best friend. It can only be 1 of 2 things. The switch or the wire. Wire, you can replace or run new. Switches--work or don't work, can be fixed or replaced. It's a simple problem that just takes a little time. One of us has your switch if you need a replacement. At least you're in the right place for answers and parts. Dave.

Don't jump down his throat yet. He may be a little on the new side. Instead of putting a bunch of !!!! after your phrase, try being informative. JMO The 240Z's were built from 69' to 73' and had a 2.4 liter inline 6 that used 2 S.U. side draft carbs The 260Z was only built from late 73' to late 74' and had a 2.6 liter and had flat top S.U.'s that most people think suck. then Nissan went to Fuel injection midway thru the production year. The 280Z's were built from late 74' to late 78' and had a 2.8 liter and were fuel injected. The 280ZX's were built from late 78' to late 83' The 300ZX came after that and 83' was the last production year of the 280ZX. Thats just for starters. I'm not going to even get into tranni's and diff's and other year and model specific changes, I'd be here all day. Dave.

You can gap them as much as 60 is you want but I'd run them about 50 general purpose driving. I'm putting out over 50,000 volts so I can get away with the 60 gap on my NGK's. My Mallory Unilite does'nt have marks so I don't know what my timing is at, at the moment. Sorry! Dave.

Could be. But that depends on if you still believe or not. :laugh:

Well obviously you would use a clearcoat afterwards but I'm not sure how the whole VOC thing would go. I have this paint on many items on my Z. mostly suspension parts. And the color is still there. I used a 2-part urethane clear coat on the parts after painting

Hey =Enigma=, Guess who has one for ya? I'll give ya 3 guesses and the last 2 don't count. I'll look for your address and ship it to you as soon as I get a chance. Dave.

I am in the process of building up the 70' Z for a car show but I'll try to check my E-mail every once in a while.

I actually haven't TRIED to wash them off YET. but they are water-based and are a "snap" to clean. I'm sure that a little soap and water might do the trick. Not sure though? Hey, I tried. I do love the paints though,

I also found that my 72' 4-speed and 3:90 diff had a lot more torque than the 79' 5-speed with the same diff. I also cruise at 60mph in 5th at only 2300 rpm's and 70mph is about 2700 rpms as well. The 72' 4-speed with 3:90 diff gets about 3700 rpm at 60 mph and that sucks for gas milage but rocks for 1/4 mile and 0-60 times.

I guess it would also depend on the amount of LEAD in your foot. I KNOW that mine has GOT to be better than 7.5 but maybe it just feels that way. I now have a better reason to go get that stop-watch I've been eye-balling.

The pure white LED's Do wash out the color and look like arse. Because the LED's are so brite, they dominate the color and thats why I use the same color as the lense itself. I tried using the white ones and hated it. I'll start looking harder. I ordered 50 AMBER (4K mcd) and they liked to flicker and blow up. For some reason, the 14 to 18K mcd LED's work much better and are much brighter. I ordered the amber ones for my front markers and turn signals and never got to finish them because of the meltdown problem. If I don't like the results, I sure as hell won't sell them to the public with my name (reputation) on the line. I'm funny that way.

Mine used to be APROX. 3.2 minutes But now I have a stage 2 cam, 6-into-1 header w/ 2 1/2" pipe thru a turbe (Raptor) muffler. MSD 6A, Mallory Unilite Dist. and Mallory Promaster coil. Stock S.U.'s and 79 ZX 5-speed w/ an 83 Turbo 3:90 diff on 225/50R16's Good question though. love to hear an aprox. time. Dave.

I already printed out a set of flames just for the heck of it. I can use my "Auto-Air colors" paint on them. They are water-based automotive paints. They'll wash off afer I see the results. Clean-up is a snap, especially on the guns and airbrush's www.autoaircolors.com

I have yet to find the AMBER LED's that the Euro-spec lights require. If you want to send the tail lightsand the check to me, I can start looking a lot harder. Having them on the shelf gives me a lot more MOTIVATION to get my arse in gear and get them back out the door. Money helps the process also. I have been buying parts using my own money but that will only go so far if I don't get orders. You know what I mean. E'mail me with the order so I can put the order into the correct file. It helps me with specifics when it comes to building. (ie: address, style (U.S. or Euro), year, brake and parking light locations per customer. etc. etc.) Dave.

I guess it's all in how you want to do it. Some people prefer to have the Datsun/Nissan specific parts that were designed for the car with out worry of how much it costs. Some others may like the fact that the ZX dist. and Module bolt right up to each other. I personally have not seen the GM parts used in a Datsun but I'm sure that they work just fine and don't cost as much. Every parts store sells Ford and GM parts, but not all of them have Datsun parts. But does it bolt up using stock screws and such or is there modifications to be made? I don't know. I myself would rather have parts that were made for use with each other and bolt holes that line up. etc, etc. But I know that I don't speak for every one and I guess it's all in "personal preference" JM2CW, Dave.

I finally got my LED's in from Hong Kong. I am ready for orders if any one is interestedin having LED tail lights like Me and MikeW.

I have an E12-80 dist. out of a 79 ZX. Now that I have the Mallory Unilite, I no longer need the ZX dist. It's in excellent condition and fresh out of my Z. I'll sell it to you for $80 and I'll pay the shipping. P.M. me if your interested. P.S. I used it with the MSD 6A and MSD Tach Adaptor so it should work perfect for your application. I even have the OEM plug from the donor car so it's a much cleaner instal. Dave.

Dupli-Color makes about 4 different colors. Red, Blue, Gold and I think there's a Yellow. It comes in a spray can. Clean your crome with acetone and wipe off the residue. Spray a light coat as a primer coat. then spray another layer in a few minutes. The more you spray, the darker the coating. Finish it with an automotive Clear coat to help bring out the luster and also protect the surface a little. On the water outlet neck, I cleaned it, then used my wire wheel on my bench to give it a hi-sheen and add depth. I sprayed brake cleaner on it to clean out the crevises then wiped it clean. The red anadizing spray made it look really deep, almost like a deep candy apple red. I then mixed up some 2-part urethane clear coat and sprayed a few layers on to make it look deep. and the pics don't do it justice. The spray can is about $6 bucks and goes a long way.

Wait till ya see what I did with the whole battery area. The picture above is just a hint. I use a fused ditrobution block and hugged all the wires to the firewall. I unwrapped the whole engine bay wire harness and cut out all headlight wires and ran all NEW wires and intergraded my Headlight and fog light upgrade harness into it. Then completely rewrapped the whole thing. I also ran the MSD's power wire and new alternator wires into the hengine harness. It's so much cleaner now, with out all those wires all over the place. I completely tore everything out of the engine compartment except the block and head, repainted the block firewall and a bunch of other things. I redid all the brake and fuel lines (scotchbrite and steel wool) relocated a bunch of other misc. things and I'm 2/3's paid on my new Ceramic coated 6-into-1 header. As you can tell, I also Red Anadized some chome and polished aluminum. Looks good so far. Thanks for the compliment. It's kiling me, trying to get it done before the next car show. (Cruisin-to-Colby) on the 28th and 29th of this month. I already prepaid for the registration so I gotta show up. Dave

Here's some of the pics I spoke of earlier. Details later

Oh hell, just do what I did. Go get a Mallory Unilite Distributor with the Optical unit. NO MORE ADJUSTING POINTS, GAPS, DWELL, PLATES. JUST TIMING. Twist it till it runs right! Just make sure you got the ballast resistor in or you'll fry the optical unit. I also put in the Mallory Promaster Coil. It rocks. It also shoots 4 inch bolts of lightning!!! so be carefull. My Damn arm still hurts. I guess the MSD 6A and tach adaptor that I put in come in handy as well. Pictures real soon, I'm redoing my whole engine compartment. Dave.

I'm kinda like "Burger King" when it comes to the harness's. "I don't make 'em, Till you order 'em" Or is that Jack in the Box? Let me know when your ready

Just a reminder, The upgrade harness's are still for sale. They are $125 and the parking light harness is $37. I do combine shipping if you order both or multiple harness's. Dave.