Zs-ondabrain

To Mike and all others who are interested in purchasing a harness from me. At the present time, I can only accept money orders and cashiers checks. Made out to David W. Irwin for the amount of $53.00 ($44.95 + $8.05 S/H). I use Priority Mail (2-3 day) and I use USPS Insurance on every package. send them to: David W. Irwin 10814 4th Ave W. Everett, WA. 98204 As for circuit failure and protection, In the instructions that I've just written, I state that the left and right headlight 10-to-15 amp glass fuses in the fuse box should be replaced with 5-amp glass fuses. There is also a 30 amp inline fuse for the power wire that powers the relays. As Datsun owners, we should all have our little pack of replacement fuses in the glovebox for those little emergencys. A spare relay in the glovebox could'nt hurt either.

ecp48, My main focus has been on the 240Z, But I hope to expand to the 260Z and 280Z. Finding the 280Z plugs at a reasonable price and availability is the hard part. Then theres the research of how to wire it properly without harming the existing harness, and making it easy and affordable for you to purchase and install. Fear not, I am working on it. and hope to have a prototype ready in a couple weeks. Hows that sound? Dave.

Like I said before, I only have three (3) at the moment, But as soon as I sell the first 2, I can buy supplies to make even more for you guys (and gals) I have to run to the store for a bit so the instructions will be a little later than previously state (later tonight. I'll do my BEST to answer all E-mails in a timely and orderly fashion. Thanks ahead of time for your comments and interest in this new venture of mine. I also hope to come up with an easy solution to the parking light problem we all have in the fusebox (third fuse down on the right) I'm logged in but not online till later Dave in WA. state

Mike and Victor hit the nail on the head. but forgot to mention the fact that.... 1) no more blown headlight fuses and MELTED fuse holders in the fuse box. 2) No more high current going through the head light and high beam switches will prevent them from burning out in the future. AND WE ALL KNOW WHAT A BITCH IT CAN BE TO REPLACE THEM OR EVEN FIND THE RIGHT ONE TO REPLACE THEM WITH, NOT TO MENTION HOW MUCH IT WILL COST YOU TO DO THAT. I'm in the process of writing the instructions up with pictures (yah!!) 1) Three grounding points using stock bolt locations 2) one mounting point for relay pack 3) plug in four oem molex plugs 4) connect the power wire to the battery 5) insert the inline fuse and your done instructions to follow in 2 hours it is now 1:45 pm PST Dave

I have (so far) 3 headlight relay upgrade harnesses $44.95 for a complete harness with relays, 12 gauge wires grounding ring eyelets, stock style plugs, all measured to fit directly into your 70-73 240-Z COMPLETELY INTERGRATES INTO YOUR Z IN ABOUT 20 MINUTES. NO CUTTING, NO DRILLING, USES STOCK BOLT AND SCREW HOLES. OEM STYLE PLUGS PLUG RIGHT INTO THE CAR WITH EASE. wolfin32z@yahoo.com Let me know what ya think. Dave in WA. state

Any takers, $44.95 + S/H for a harness that will reduce the draw on your fuse box by as much as 90% This will also drasticly reduce the wear and tear of electricity that normally burns or ruins your headlight and turn sinal switches, which will cost you big bucks in the end (IF you can even find the one your looking for) The new harness that I'm making only requires a maximum of 2 amps to operate the head lights, the run of new 12 gauge wire that powers the headlights, is as much as 60% shorter than the stock route that runs through relays, switches and the fuse box. Not to mention the umpteen yards of 35 year old wire in your Z . 1) $44.95 for a complete harness, 2 relays, and O.E.M. plugs that intergrate directly into your 70-73 240Z. 2) No drilling, No cutting the stock headlight wiring harness, No more melted headlight fuses or fuse holders in the fusebox. 3)It's as much as $150.00 for a new fuse box (IF you can find one) 4) How much will it cost to fix the damage that a melted wire did to your Z. 5) how much is it to replace your Z if it catches on fire. Dave in Marysville, Washington. 98270 wolfin32z@yahoo.com Let me know if your interested.

I personally think you need a new "sparky." I've never heard of pulling a dash for a relay upgrade. If you are interested, you can use the diagram I uploaded earlier or.......... Purchase a new headlight relay upgrade harness that I am in the proccess of manufacturing for use on the 240Z. I'm not sure of the compatibility of the harness with the 260 or 280 Z's. But I'm still in the research and developement stages of this little project of mine. They are made w/ 12 gauge wires, all connections are soldered w/ anti-corrosive silver filled solder for strengh, heat shrink and split loom are used to make it more weather resistant and appear stock, heavy gauge weather resistant fuse holders and stock molex plugs for a perfect integration into your Z without cutting wires or needless drilling of new holes. 1) The current draw on your fuse box is aproximately 20+amps. 2) If you are thinking of upgrading your lights to the new H-4 style lights, the draw on your system will increase by as much as 20% or more. dramaticly increasing your chances of a fuse box meltdown or even worse, a possible fire 3) If you own an early 240Z, (like me) your wiring is up to 35 years old. 4) The preset price of the harness that I'm manufacturing will be $44.95.+S/H Every thing you need for the upgrade comes with the price. A new fusebox will cost as much as $150.00. A new Z will cost much, much more than that. You decide which is the better investment. A New 30/40 relay for high beams and 20/30 relay for lowbeam. all ground wires are place in the harness to reach stock bolt and screw holes (no drilling neccessary) let me know if you're interested. Dave in Marysville, WA. U.S.A. zip code 98270 the picture below is from my car, I also have KATS (high wattage) driving lights. Thats why there are three relays together.

O.K. I think I did it right. I converted it from a bmp. to a jpeg file. here it goes

if this new programing that mike has goin on here would just allow me to download the relay scematic that I drew up for you guys on my PAINT program, you could all have it, for free. why cant I upload a PAINT Program picture??????????

Yes, just like any othe head light top vertical screw for up + down side screw for left and right it has the same form as a regular headlight, it just allows you to use a H-4 bulb instead of a halogen Would you like any wiring diagrams for wiring relays straight from the battery to the headlights via relays, while only using 1 to 2 amps through the fuse box rather than the 15 to 20 that you are currently using. Which will also MELT your fuse holders over a small period of time. The new wires and relays will cost you significantly less than a replacement fusebox and harness, that is, if the car does'nt catch fire first. the supply list is simple: -wires- 2-30/40 2-way automotive relays (aprox $5.00 each) 4 ft of 8 gauge power wire w/ a 30 amp fuse holder (less than $10.00) 12 ft of 12 gauge power wire 3 ft of 16 gauge speaker wire -connecters- 6-yellow 12-10 gauge nylon female fully insulated quick disconnects 6-blue 16-14 gauge nylon female fully insulated quick disconnects 6-blue 12-10 gauge nylon MALE half insulated quick disconnects 3-yellow 12-10 gauge nylon half insulated Ring terminals Heat shrink is optional but will help protect your wires and connections from the elements. If you e-mail me, I will give you diagrams of how to wire it all up w/ relays and all other supplys, it's the way that Nissan should have done it 34 years ago. It's fairly simple to do and will take an hour or so and will last for years to come. The less current draw you put on your system and fuse box, the longer it will last, the brighter the other lights on the car will become. It's one of those (win/win) things. It is SOOOOO worth the few hours you'll put in to it, and all the money you'll save in the future. wolfin32z@yahoo.com Dave.

I now have a new set of H-4 conversion euro lense lights on the Z (70') They work awsome and install was a snap. Four philips head screws to remove the rear headlight assembly. Three screws remove the retaining ring on the bulb. Pull the bulb and unplug it. I used the MiiG H-4 headlight Euro conversion kit w/ Zargon gas bulbs (zargon is one step up from zenon.) The kit also has a (Streetlights) bulb plug in it, but thats another story. DO NOT GET THE (DIAMOND CUT) housings!!! THEY SUCK! Its up to you (depending on how original you want to keep your Z) but most people like to cut a hole in the back of the head light assembly in order to access the new H-4 bulb for replacement and then they put a big rubber plug in the back to keep it clean and dry. Your stock plug will attach perfectly to the new H-4 bulb. reassemble the headlight assembly and your done. It's really that simple.

If it sounds like I'm talking out my a$$, It's very possible. don't your DGV's just use an adaptor to mount to your intake manifolds, And if they do, are they removable and can the new S.U's bolt to that location, without swapping intakes or the ballance tube?? sorry. It's been a while. Dave.

I tried the 280Z hood and was not happy w/ the results. My Z is a 70', by the way. the hood sat too high near the headlights and was a smidgen to long

My buddy here in the northwest, (washington state, U.S.) has another option for ya, he's been in the Z business for quite some time. And he thinks that the alternator he has is your best bet. www.zspecialties.com/hotdeal.htm

by my calculations, thats about $11.00 US per gallon @ about 1.86?? exchange rate. i think www.xe.com/ucc

I know Oliver personally, He's a great guy and has never steered me or any one I know wrong. You can Believe and trust any thing he has to offer or say. He has used heater cores and warrenties them for 90 days and they cost $75.00. I asked him for a NEW one and he regretably told me he had none, he took my number down, and went looking as far as Japan ($250.00+) and all over the U.S. ($200.00) He personally looked for a new heater core for me for 2 full days. That shows me consideration and care for his customers. If he can't answer your question, he'll find some one who can, or try his damndest to find the answer and get back to you A.S.A.P. His shop is loaded w/ so much Z perifinalia, You'd better bring a towel for all the drooling you'll be doing as you look at ?50+ Z's on the lot.

All right, All right already. But what about todays car?? For instance, Me and my girl friend just loaded the Z up w/ $250 worth of grocery's. We have a combined weight of about 280lbs. This idiot in a red convertable 03' Mustang Cobra, (4.8L V8??) pulls up to the stop light that we're sitting at, revving his motor like he's hot sh*t. My girlfriend looks over at me, then at him, then back at me again and says, "your not seriously going to let this moran take you, are ya??" I smiled and said "we'll see." The side streets light turned yellow, then red, and as soon as our light turned green, the gas peddle went down and the clutch got dropped. Even with the combined weight of me and her, the Z, a butt load of grocery's and a full tank of gas (aprox 144lbs) This guy was sucking the fumes of 130,000 hard miles and a couple bad piston rings (ya, it smokes when I get on it). We get to the nexy light and Mr. Droopy McSlowtogo has got the dumbest look on his face. I can barely hear him say "what the hell does that thing have in it," over my girlfriend laughing at him. I tell him it's a 2.4 liter 6 with a cam and a header, and he still looks dumbfounded. The light turns green, the car in front of him is a little to slow, so we loose him in traffic. She laughed half the way home and a little more that night. So my question is, what are the Z's REAL competition with todays type cars?? Dave.