Zs-ondabrain

There are 2 different weatherstrippings for the hatch. An Inner, which is a thick, square and has formed corners. A continuous loop The outer is available in a stock 3 peice or preformed single piece. It's placed on the outer area via the outer lip and some weatherstripping glue. Both are avaliable I would Honestly go with the MSA unit. I believe they have both OEM Nissan pieces as well as aftermarket. Me and Z_Tyler_Z (another member) installed the Kia weatherstripping on his 280Z hatch and it worked, but I won't say I was impressed with the look and fit of it. This is an area of the car that you don't wanna skimp on. If it's too thin, it'll not only leak, it'll allow exhaust fumes into the car at speeds. Hopefully this helps, Dave

The Float Bowl Vents are just that. They are only there if the float valve sticks open and the vent allows the fuel to escape the bowl, rather than be shoved into the carb and flood the motor or oversupply it with too much fuel. On a stock Z, the air filter assembly has 2 inlet pipes for those overflow tubes. The vents allow air flow so the fuel can move freely (kinda like the vent system on a toilet or shower) and if overflow occurs, the raw fuel will dump into the air cleaner assembly instead of the all over the header (exhaust) So it sounds like the floats or float valves are or were sticky. The fuel level can be brought up by readjusting the floats, and yours may be too low. Sounds like you're on a roll, keep at it. Dave

If you look at the upper right hand corner of the screen, we always have Vendors advertising here. They support us because they get business from us. Clicky clicky... Zbarn, Zcarsource, or even try our classifieds at www.datsunclassifieds.com Dave

this makes no sense. You already told us that it sounded nice and smooth when it ran with you spraying fluid into the carbs. Why on gods green earth would you start doing all the unneccesary testing and pulling parts and timing. You have a Fuel issue..... Sorry to sound like a broken record but you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Get fuel to the float bowls (Check) Make sure fuel level is set in the bowls (Check??) get fuel thru the bowl hoses into the carbs. (check??) ARE THE CHOKES working?? Are the carb pistons able to move up and down freely? do the butterflies crack open when the choke is applied?? Are there any Vaccum leaks that may be killing any needed suction thru the carbs?? Process of elimination. eliminate all the fuel problems then move on to Vaccum issues? think K.I.S. (Keep it simple)

I've Daily Driven my 70' 240Z for over 8 years now. The car has been rebuilt, mostly suspension, some paint and body work, and a bunch of elbo grease into the Bling factor. If it's not snowing or Icy outside, or am by myself or one other, I'm driving the Z. With the typical Sport car maintenance, including oil changes every 5K mile, hoses, belts, coolant swap every 30K, air filter cleaning every 6K (K&N's) and all the usual Fluid upkeep and such, like Every car out there, this car has been the most dependable aotu I've ever owned. With 3 trips from Marysville, WA. to Anaheim, CA. (2400 mile round trip) and 6 more trips from here to Canby, OR, (450 mile RT) once a year, all the daily driving, grocery getting, apointments and plain old "Going for a drive" trips, I don't see her giving up the ghost anytime in the near future. I've also owned 5 Z's in total but still have my first and the 5th is under a full Custom Resto-Mod in the garage. Both Cardomain Links in my Sig. below. There's an argument for every year S30, so I won't say only buy a 240Z or only buy a 280Z. It's totally up to you. Everything you need know, any questions you have, can and will be answered on this site. Just watch for rust, Listen to your Z, it'll tell you what it needs. Dave

They work fine. remember, the 240Z used small black plastic rivets with the push in center pin. There is NO clearance issue unless you have NO weather stripping and the hatch sits on metal?? alot of PO's tossed the plastic in trade for metal. So a stock rebuild or restoration would use the plastic ones. As far as having plastic rivets with no center pin, you might find that if you use a small punch in the center, that there actually is a pin there. it's just blended with the outer rivet over the years. The 260Z and 280Z's used larger plastic and also screws. Dave

How are the chokes? A cold, unran motor is likely to give you greif if the chokes aren't operating correctly. if Bruce helped you out with the SU's then you're likely on the right coarse. You obviously have spark if spraying starter fluid or cleaner into the carbs gets it to fire. When it fires, does it backfire or seem to be running rough (wrong firing order kinda rough)?? If it's a 260Z, make sure the fuel pump is working correctly. The fuel pump won't kick over till you get some alternator juice to the voltage regulator, which powers up the relay that runs the fuel pump. Confused yet? Try the chokes, look under each carb to make sure the knuckle that holds the needle has dropped about 1/8" when the choke is pulled back inside the car. That should be enough to get it started. Also eyeball the rod that holds the butterfly on each carb, when you engage the choke enough, does the shaft move even a little. I ask because the butterfly needs to open just a little when the choke is used, to allow air into thru the carb. Dave

Yup, that's the part. so let me know when you've read the PM and what you plan to do, Dave

Koalia, Great suggestions but he's just be buying into someone elses problems, as they all apear to be used. Chris, Check your PM's Dave

Under the panels, is correct. Most folks will simply tuck it under the panel but others will completely loosen or remove the plastic panels before removing the old and installing the new seals. As I have done this about 7 times to 7 different Z's, loosing teh panels before installing the inner hatch seal seems to be the least time consuming of all the options. Also, having them loose allows any glue to stay on the seal, rather than scraping off on the panel as you try and tuck it between the 2.

Looks like ya got it. The Free 72' was an interesting deal, to say the very least. Here's a thread on it (6 pages) but good info. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37779 And here's my Cardomain Page on the "Green Bean" http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3847227/1972-datsun-240z The cardomain pages have the rest of the pics to see the final product. Not too bad for only $1800 into it. and sold it for $3800. Dave

Don't forget. I got the 72' for Free last April. Free Z's are awesome.!!!! Dave

Welcome Keith, Sounds like you're on the right path. Is it a low vin 70'? What's the VIN? Have you registered in on http://zhome.com/ ? We try and get as many Z owners as possible to let us know what they have, it's current state and that it still exists for the world to appreciate. Where abouts in Ohio? You may have a couple neighbors here. Great to have ya, Dave

is the pulley belt still there? I know it sounds dumb but you said you checked all the electrical but did ya look any further than that? When I lost a belt on the freeway, I got all the same signs as you. weaker lights, warning lights, etc.

Yes, Devon Is on the Beautiful side of things. I think she lives in Tacoma. Just down the road from ya. I'm not associated with them but they look like they might have a clue, as compared to some other cheesy companies out there.

Some of it does look dumb but depending on the application, can actually look pretty damn cool. Available in "Gloss" or "Dry" Carbon Fiber. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=22978&id=132976846739423 Just click on the pictures to move to the next picture in line. Lotta coll, Corny and interesting thing wrapped. They even wrapped a damaged Carbon fiber grill in dry carbon fiber wrap. don't look too bad. Dave

Have them wrapped in That real thin fake carbon Fiber. Silver or real reflective chrome spray? I agree with the different shade of red though. Maybe a darker red with flames or some pattern in it??

See? I knew it was something weird like that. Thanks for the insite. Dave

Mine was a dumb question, not yours. That's why I said "I'm full of them this week" Let us know

dumb question, and I'm full of them this week, but are ya sure you got the right hole? Like I said, it's a dumb question but I gotta ask. You're right, they typically screw right in. I was unaware of an adjustability. that's weird, Dave

You'll have to ask Bruce Palmer but I'm pretty sure they don't take Flat tops either. Though I'm sure he can tell ya what to do with them... But seriously. To any 260Z owner with Flat tops, goto www.ztherapy.com and start reading. they'll tell ya what you need to get Round tops onto a 260Z. I've NEVER heard of a dissapointed ZTherapy customer. And I'm one of the Happy, Giddy customers who loves to spread the word. Dave

Rule number 36A "Thou Shalt not Toss or forcefully remove and discard the Round top SU" Rule number 36B "Though shall, as both a last resort and smart move, use their existing SU's as trade in on a set of ZTherapy SU's. For they are the next best thing to New Tires or bad sex. cause even the worst sex :sick: is better than none at all" I had an idea that you may have been talking about round tops but really wanted to stress the Flat top issues, first and foremost.

Dan, Might be a good time to pull the Ammeter and inspect it. If you've checked all fuses, inline fuses and connections, the ammeter may have been destroyed internally. it is a possibility and I've seen it a few times. You might wanna also pull the fuse box and look for unsoldered lines (wires that you can't see from above. Remember to disconnect the battery before pulling either one of those units. Dave

Not the same thing. His 260Z has Large Flat top carbs. Completely different monster than your 3 or 4 screw round top SU's. Most people toss the flat tops or sell them as Boat anchors.... And Full weatherstripping kits are readily available. I too have a 260Z and recently bought a full kit from MSA. Dave

If the window rolls down too far, and goes into the channel, under the rubber squeegy area?? You may need a new rubber stopper at the bottom of the door. Look at the bottom inside of the door, there should be a metal lip down there that holds a 3/4" x 1.5" block of rubber. That rubber block stops the window from going down too far. They like to fall off due to a faulty, sometimes rusty clip that holds it to the metal plate on the bottom of the door. As for the switch, just use an ohms meter on the contacts of the larger wires, on top of the combo switch. The wires are either Black and red or white/red and red. I think. The contacts are cleanable if you can carefully dissasemble the switch and put is back together. DO NOT USE a bunch of grease where the plastic bullet peice slides on the contact. use a VERY small amount of di-electric grease only where is make contact with the bullet. If you bend the tabs to open the switch up, only bend them slightly, just enough to remove the switch plate from the metal body. I say this because they will break if moved too much. Dave