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Zs-ondabrain

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Everything posted by Zs-ondabrain

  1. I'd pull the fuse box and make sure the green/white wire still has contact with the fuse holder. You likely need one of my PLH's (Parking light upgrade harness) for $50. But you need to make sure you get power to the combo switch, via that green/white wire and the fuse box. once you do, then you can install the PLH and restore good battery power back to the circuit. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com and I'll give you the payment and shipping info to purchase a PLH.

  2. The "False plug is the seperate connector that would plug into the engine harness on the passenger side headlight plug. It just keeps the dirt out of the open, un-used headlight plug on the engine harness. You got a 260Z, so don't worry about it. You can hard-wire it in if you choose to use it. The ground wire with the ring terminal on it goes to the solid red on the right side and red/yellow on the left side of the headlight harness that goes to the headlight. The white wire is the Hi beam and goes to the Red/White going to the headlight. The black is the low beam wire and goes to the red/black wire going to the headlight.
  3. Let me know if you need the instal instructions for those kits. I can email the files to ya.
  4. It's all there. pic 1 is the power wire to the Parking light upgrade harness (you'll need a 15 amp blue ATC fuse. Pic 2 is a complete HLH or headlight upgrade harness and the "False" plug is plugged into the the left HL plug, just pull it out. Pic 3 is or looks like a 9-pin PLH kit (blurry pic) for the 73' 240Z with intermittent wipers (this can also be used on the 260Z and the 75' and 76' 280Z with a 9-pin combo switch. The 77' and 78' have a 10 pin combo switch. Pic 4 is the 12vdc relay that plugs into the 9-pin's relay socket in pic 3. Pic 5 is a ZXP alternator adapter plug for the 70 to 72' 240Z without stock electric fuel pump. using the ZXP on a 73' with stock electric fuel pump will cause the relays to stay on and drain the battery. Mind if I ask what you paid for the box of parts? (there's $190 USD value there) HLH is $125, PLH is $50 and the ZXP is $15 shipped in the US lower 48 states. obviously more for shipping to Canada.
  5. Not sure if I posted it or not but I redid the sub enclosure in the rear to 2) 10" MTX but I really wanna do 2) shallow mount 12" subs (Pioneer) as the require the exact same air space as the 2) 10's.
  6. Bass travels right through the carpet and there's no audible vibration or noise. It moves up and down with the beat but you don't hear the carpet, just the bass.
  7. You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?r=201-Honda-Wiper-Motor-Upgrade-for-the-240Z
  8. Tired of the old SLOW and Tired wipers on your 240Z? Ya, Me too. SO I did some research on the subject over at HybridZ and found that for a few years now, people have been trying to use the 94' Accord and 91' Civic wiper motors as a replacement to the Datsun wiper motor that ONLY like to move if the window is WET... So I read every thread and post on the subject to find out as much as possible. All I found was pictures and posts by people saying that "it works great BUT..... The wiper does'nt PARK when you turn the switch to OFF. You have to shut the wiper switch off at the EXACT moment to get the blades to sit in the usual DOWN position. So I went to the junk yard and pulled a 91' Honda Civic wiper motor, brought it home and tore the gear/contact cover off to find what made it click and Also to find why nobody, after 4 years, could get the wiper to "PARK" I wrote everything down that I saw, put it back together and studied the their wiring diagrams and my diagrams. So I wire up the wiper the way everyone else had been doing it for a few years and started tesing each and every wire. I discovered what they had missed and decided to wire up a relay, the way I thought it should be, to get the wipers to "PARK" and then gave it some power. Slow speed worked great, high speed worked even better. So I kicked it back down to slow then crossed my fingers and turn the switch off. It spun a little before the relay kicked in, then it finished it's rotation and stopped exactly where it should have. So I did it a bunch of times and it stopped in the exact same spot every time. So in other words, I seem to have fixed the problem that plagued people who have done the conversion before. Below is everything you'll need to know about putting in a 91' Honda Civic wiper motor into your 240Z. I've done the conversion and it's FRICKEN AWESOME!!! The first time I tried the wipers was in my garage on a DRY window with NEW wiper blades. I made a video of it for any unbelievers and also to show how the OFF position Parks the blades at the end of the rotation. So here's some more good news, the Datsun wiper motor mounting screws work on the Honda motor AND the Datsun wiper arm bracket will slide right onto the Honda motor shaft without modification. When you go to the Pull-A-Part, SAVE THE BOLTS and the NUT & WASHER. If you buy the motor at the Auto Parts Store, it will NOT normally come with bolts or the bracket mounting nut. Here is the Short list of needed items....... 1) 91' Honda wiper motor (make sure to unplug the motor and also remove the female end from the honda with at least 6 to 8 inches of wire past the female plug, you'll need the female end if you wanna make a custom adaptor type harness) I paid $6.50 at the local Pull-A-Part, Schucks Auto Supply wanted about $100. Go Used. 1) 20/30 amp 12 volt relay from the auto parts store (usually about $5.00) 1) 6-terminal Datsun Plug (exactly like the one on your Datsun wiper motor, or Voltage regulator or pre 3/73' Combo switch on the harness side. I sell these and the terminals if you would like to make a brand new adaptor for your conversion The other possibility is to Cut off your plug and wires from your Datsun Wiper motor, it's up to you. You can even Hard wire the Honda motor in if you'd like. 70' Datsun 240Z __________________ 91' Honda civic wiper motor blue/white-------pin 86 ________ Pin 87A-------blue/white blue-------------pin 87 ________ pin 30--------blue Blue/red-----------pin 85-------pin 85----------green/black Black----------------------to------------------black Blue/yellow----------------to-------------------blue/yellow ________________________________________________________ Here are the pics for drilling the Datsun wiper Plate, notching the plate to seat the Honda motor correctly, and that's it. 5 small cuts, 3 small holes. If you have any questions and don't mind reading alot more, check out this link for every single detail. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82292 After the New Honda Motor is installed in your Z, turn the wipers on once or twice to 1) Make sure the motor is working correctly and running and 2) to Park the wiper studs in the right position before installing the wiper blades. Feel free to ask questions here, post results, share added info (other years and models of Honda wiper motors that are identical etc.) Dave. Datsun to Honda wiper diagram.bmp
  9. I use a small drill inside the door with a 3/8" bit or even a step bit up to 3/8" Then I use a 3/8" grommet. On the body side, I like to drill the 3/8" hole through the hole in the kick panel that the hinge bolts are in. And as close to being across from the hole you drill in the door. If you need to, drill through the sheet metal into the pocket then to the outer sheet metal. It's hard to describe without pictures. And as many times as I've done this to an S30, you'd think I'd have a bunch of pictures by now. Dave
  10. you forgot to show the 70' like mine. https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch/Report?vc=872367 My 70' is insured through Hagerty and covered for $25,000 replacement. The lady I spoke with when getting this insurance, told me I could easily do $30K after seeing the pictures and reading everything I had into it. I told her I'd keep it realistic at $25K and keep my yearly payment down at $330 annual renewal fee. I LOVE Hagerty. Dave
  11. I met E many times at the Canby events over the years. His honest opinions and "Good Job Dave" followed with a pat on the back is what I remember most of him. He'd play it off like it was no big deal when my wife Leah would compliment him on his Z. I remember telling him "I really want those headlight covers" and him saying "I'll try and remember that when I update my will" Who'd have thought it would be read this soon? Certainly not me. He always seemed to be on my side when discussions would get heated with newbies on this site, and I loved that about him. Great man who I can honestly say, helped me to be where I am today when it comes to my upgrades and my car. Rest in Peace old friend. May the highways of heaven be clear and full of curves. Dave and Leah
  12. I have exactly what you need, packaged up and ready to ship, but I need your address. You'll get a rebuilt switch box with a good PCB, wires attached, good sleeving and the 3 pin connector with the terminals cleaned. check your wildblue.net email and get back to me. Dave
  13. Thanks Mike. I'm always here, just hiding in the shadows..... Greg, after shipping and all that, probably cheaper to buy direct. You'll want the SPAL Deluxe Kit (stronger and quieter) and you'll want the 2 switch kit and mount them in the center console of in that area. the 3 switch kit allows you to put the L and R door switches on your door and the 3rd switch goes on the pasenger side. but that's more wiring and cutting into your door panel. I'd go with the 2 switch kit.
  14. Just a quick update on an old thread. It's now Feb of 2013 and the same kit I installed all those years ago, still works perfect. Not a single issue, no binding, tracks are still greased and slide easy, no more quieter or noisy then 5 years ago and it's still a daily driver. Dave
  15. That inline fuse case usually melts from over use. It should be located between the switch and the motor, and like E said, should have a red and blue wire or both of one color. It's a white plastic fuse holder and probably melted to the point that the contacts can't touch the fuse ends. You're best bet is to cut it out and replace it with a newer fuse holder.
  16. Exactly, I only convert complete units. I wish I could find a set of All Clear lenses. That would be sweet. Or even a slight tint would be great too.
  17. Tom, I peek in now and then. Jsnrjock, You're welcome. I did it twice. Almost had to smack myself for the second time. but I was in a hurry and ended up spending even more time due to having fixed my goof. DAve
  18. you put the bracket onto the motor 180 out. so undo the bracket, turn it 180 degrees and rebolt it to the motor. done Bracket as in the peice the connects the wiper linkage to the motor shaft. so just turn it around.
  19. And for Clarity...... L = Load (to the lights/turn signal/hazards) E / G / - = Earth / Ground / Negative B / + = Battery / Positive / Power In Thank you for this Pete (Thomas461) and any others who add to the thread. Dave
  20. The correct Electronic flasher will flash at the same rat, no matter the mix of LED VS. filiment bulb.
  21. You need to look for an LED specific Electronic Flasher module. I think I'm using a "Blazer" or "Tridon" EP35. I think it's a 3-4 light T/S or 6-8 Hazard. (works for both, so get 2 once you find the one that works best for your Application) Dave
  22. When you tear it apart, you'll see a pressed in ring that holds the rubber boot, that seperates the oil chamber from the air chamber. That rubber boot is the whole problem with 90% of the fuel pumps I've worked on. I found a rubber firewall bushing that is wide enough to fit in the hole but the inner hole of the bushing is just small enough to be snug against the diaphram piston. It's not perfect but it at least slows the oil flow from the lower chamber to the top. Ont the mating surfaces, I like to use 600 grit wetsand paper on a flush surface to make sure any warpage is gone and will seal perfectly. Then clean the diaphram with brake cleaner. I use "Ultra Black" gasket goop to make sure that part never leaks again. On Some of the pumps I've dealt with, the threads are stripped. I've gone as far as using longer screws to allow the use of a Nut on the bottom side to allow me to torque all 6 screws down without worrying about it stripping newly tapped threads. When your engine bay is as nice as mine, you'll do whatever you can to keep it that way but make it still look stock. Dave Use Teflon tape on the inlet and outlet nozzles.
  23. Been here and there. between Facebook, CZCC, working on my Z and orders, This guys a busy boy. I come back to see what's up now and then, check PM's, see if any new subjects of interest have been brought up, etc, etc. Me and Leah went to the MSA event. PLENTY of pics of my 240Z out on the web now. We were away from home for a week. Had a great time, met a LOT of people and put another 2400 miles on the Z. Man, does my butt hurt. These NISMO seats are NOT arse friendly for long trips. Dave Here's a few shots of the New ZG's, New BRE spoiler, the Rota RB's and I even tried to polish the paint a little before we left.
  24. In it's current state. Taken Before we left for the MSA WCN.... Sorry for the Cell Phone pics, but there it is. Dave
  25. Yesterday, I installd the MSA Stage 1 Rear disk brake conversion Kit. Just need to adjust the E-Brake and we're golden.
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