Zs-ondabrain

So Me and Z_Tyler_Z were at the local Pull A Part stripping a 71' 240Z before they crush it tomorrow. Weirdly enough, got a couple parts for $12 and headed home. Traffic absolutely sucked, so after sitting in the driveway for 5 minutes waiting for a break, I floored it and hit about 6KRPM's and a burst of steam "Puffed" out of the hood to fender area. Nowhere to pull over till I got around the corner. The whole time, I'm thinking "Please be a hose, Please be a hose" "And not the $300 aluminum radiator" So I shut it off and popped the hood to have a steady stream of hot water shooting onto the drivers side inner fender between the coil and the strut tower. So after a closer look, I spot the colprit..... One of my freeze plugs had rusted through and the hi RPM's pushed the metal enough to finally burst the rust wall of the freeze plug. Upon further inspection, the center freeze plug also has rust on it and a small rust stain could be seen below that plug as well. So my question is, before I go and try and find 2 new plugs, is... Does anyone know the size of the Freeze plugs on my 70' L24 block?? Just wanna be prepared for the hunt tomorrow. Thanks in advance. Dave

Wow INF... almost Verbatum. Thanks for the plug. Dave

Send the harness back while you still can. Don't even open the box. Their description of a Plug and Play Upgrade harness is ANYTHING but that. You'll have to cut the hell out of it to make it even work, it stands out like a sore thumb. If the relays ever go bad, you're screwed, as they can't be bought with any bit of ease. Try this instead........ http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SRC19/12-4651 Ya, it's more expensive but it is a TRUE Plug and Play for the 240Z. No cutting, splicing, drilling or messing with your stock wiring. Just mount it, connect the connectors to your headlight plugs in front of the radiator, bolt the new ground wires to the inner frame in front of the radiator, connect the power wire to the battery's (+) post and your done. Dave

What Gary said........ Sounds like th heat may be expanding the gap in your throttle shafts and the carbs are running lean. Maybe an electric fuel pump might help keep some fuel in the bowl. Dave

THAT'S IT!! See, I told you they'd come thru. "I know what I Know, and can't remember the rest" Dave

It's all about Resistance. Resistance causes heat. Resistance in your system comes from aging wires, contacts and connectors. The 240Z's wires were too small of a gauge to begin with. Then the Z ended up lasting 40 years. Hi amperage, thru 40 year old wires causes resistance. Get it? Thought you would. Now the solution. Pull each and every connector in the headlight circuit, clean them and make sure they are tight and making the best connection possible. There are chemicals out there that will eliminate the corrosion and expose a clean metal surface.. Can't remember the name at the moment but I'm sure someone will chime in with the right answer. When I say "Each and Every connection" That means, the Headlight connectors at the bulbs, the ones in front of the radiator, inside the passenger side dash area, the fusebox (power in and out) the fuses, the combo switch contacts and connectors. The HLH will take your weak signal in front of the radiator and activate the relays, which get their power directly from the battery via a fused 10 gauge power wire, New connectors and terminals. So the only weak spot after installing an HLH is the pigtail harness between the connector at the bulbs and the new harness. Hope that helps, Dave

It's on the combo switch and you can follow it to the connector (5" away) There's a green/white and a green/blue on the switch. You'll also find those wires at the connector. Find the one that always has power, then ignore it. Then find the other that tests (+) when you turn on the parking lights. That wire, from the switch, goes to the relay to turn it on. Then the output (#30) goes back to the wire heading away from the switch. Confused yet? Dave

I don't know why, or what the reasoning is behind it, but I've been told on many occasions by several people that "You're supposed to Disconnect the Negative First" Especially in a Z. Considering when it's installed correctly, the positive needs to go on first, then stuff it in the corner, then the negative. If you try and lift that Positive clamp off the post and it grounds on the frame, you're up shitcreek. With a big spark and meltdown.

Wiggle your turn signal switch and your hazard switch. I think the brake lights go thru there. Couldn't hurt to try it and check ALL fuses and the brake pedal switch as well. Dave

Check this small thread and see if any of it is consistant with your issue. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38313

So the Tokico HP's and Eibach PR lowering springs are all on. The front left strut that was on there basically FELL back into the housing, No pressure left at all. The other 3 were decent but way too easy to compress by hand. The only thing holding the front end up was the stock springs. From the ground to the outer lower lip were as follows (Before the Tokico's and Eibachs) Fronts were 26-3/4" Rears were 26-1/8" After the Tokico's and Eibachs..... Fronts are now 26-3/8" (probably only 3/8" because the previous struts were shot) Rears are now 25-3/8" (about a 3/4" drop) I didn't expect a big drop because the car was already sagging due to crappy existing strus and 38 year old springs. Though I'm sure she'll drop a little more when I get it out on the road and do a little driving. I rolled the car back and forth to get the wheels back out where they belong after lowering the car back down off the jack. Even the half inch drop looks great, or at least better than the High Boy look it had. Can't drive it yet due to lack of rear brake cylinders and closed off brake lines. I Cleaned the drums and had them resurfaced and also bought new brake shoes. So as soon as the cylinders get here and on, the test drive will commence. Dave

Also, The red to black, under the column to the T/S switch is your low beam/hi beam control. It'll get warm or hot without the HLH installed, as it is the headlights Negative wire. flipping the hi/lo switch will either give a ground to the low beams or the hi beams. Typically, if a hot lead (positive wire) gets hot, the negative will too, as they are the same circuit. The HLH will cure this. Dave

The HLH will do the same as the PLH. It'll stop the overheating fuses, warm or hot wires and make the lights brighter. Whenever you're ready. Just let me know. You're welcome, it's what I do. Dave

Those are the ones. And it's great to see that the bleeders are out and able to be actually "Bled". Hold onto them as I have a couple on the way. (BIG Thanks to Roger Wayland and Bart in NJ-mlc240Z) They may be an easy money maker for you in the future. So let me see what comes in the mail and what I have to work with and I'll let you know. I really apreciate all the help I've gotten from all the great members around here. A lot of people definately "Stepped up" to help a member in need and on a tight budget. Thanks again to EVERYONE!!! Dave (and the Green Bean Z)

You just described every other reason that the PLH was designed and made, and should be installed NOW!! That's exactly what the PLH does, stops the overheating fuse and melting fusebox syndrome. So install it already. Dave

The Aluminum cup and Nylon ball you have are an aftermarket Kit called a "T/C Kit" Torsion/Compression kits allow a more positive feel, solid firm feel under heavy braking. There should be a rubber or urethane bushing on the back side of the frame mount, followed by a large washer, small washer and a lock nut. The kit allows up and down movement but keeps the lower control arm from rearward movement. The Stock Rod would have a large washer-rubber bushing-inner metal sleeve / frame mount then rubber bushing-large washer-lock nut. In that order. T/C kit is performance. Urethane will stiffin it. If you want Urethan there and no T/C kit, then use the urethan on the wheel side and rubber on the back side. Using double urethane has been known to be too tight and can snap your Rod under pressure of cornering etc. Dave

Get your air hose out and pull the connections, one at a time, blow the hell out of them and dab a little "Di-electric grease" on each and every connection. This will stop corrosion and shorting issues if water is ever a problem again. It also cuts off Oxygen so corrosion doesn't have a chance.

Thanks Dave, As weird as it sounds, I'm actually trying to keep the 72' on the stock side. With the exception of the Urethane air dam, Triple Webers, and a few other small upgrades, she's basically staying sorta-stock. Though I may have to pull the stub axles to repack the bearings. They spin WAY TOO EASILY for my taste, or at least in my experience. Dave

First. What size fuse is blowing, for the parking lights? Second, Fix the drainage hose and dry all the connection. It's never a bad idea to pull all the bulbs and clean the sockets and the bulbs to remove as much resistance as possible. Might be time to get a PLH (parking light upgrade harness)for your 240Z. Motorsport Auto has them and can take Debit, credit or paypal and easily ship international packages. Dave

So if I can't get Your broken bleeder out then I'll be on the look out for a second cylinder. But at least I'll have 1 good one to start with. Looks like the good one (with a bleeder is a Left side cylinder. Dave

Those are exactly what I need Bart. I can get a bleeder no problem. Check your PM in about 2 minutes

The Pics in Post #1 and the pic in Post #2 are both correct. And the ones I need. If you could do this, I'll owe ya big time Brother. I'd be most appreciative and the wife will also thank you cause I'm running around the house Bitchin and moaning to no avail. Correct, the 12/71 is the naughty culprit. It's stuck in the air while I try and procure a decent set to replace the Broken ones I just tore off. Disc brakes would be great but we're still talking needing a few hundred at minimum to do the upgrade and parts swap from the 70 to the 71' Though I like the way ya think. Dave

OK, So I can use the later model wheel cylinders as well. All I need to do is bend my bridge line (hard line) to fit into the hole in the different location. SO, Does anyone have ANY 240Z pair of wheel cylinders (late 69' to late 73') ???? Don't make me Beg. I suck at it. Dave

Still can't see paying $220 fricken dollars for 2 chunks of aluminum. I'll take any 2 used ones as long as they work. That's all I want. UMTEEN Thousand Members and nobody has a spare set for trade or cheap sale?

Yup, I still do the service. My email is below, in the signature.