Zs-ondabrain

Well, I've tried repeatedly to reach ConchZ, Tarmac and Powerglide, to NO avail. So I have 2 R/T mounts available to any and all who thought they missed out. Their loss is your gain. Contact me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com or see page #1 of this thread for ordering info. Once again, I HAVE 2 AVAILABLE AS OF 12/29/09 Dave.

And I would have explained that, had you inquired about anything LED, dealing with turn signals. Thanks for being on top of that Curtis. My brain slips every so often when doing write-ups. Dave

Most of my prices have stayed the same. I responded to your message but here's a more indepth responce.. HLH or 240Z Headlight upgrade harness is $125 PLH or 240Z Parking light upgrade harness is $50 (also avail. for mid 73' to 76' S30's with intermittent wiper, *Ask for details whe ordering* ZXP or 240Z ZX alternator adaptor plug $15 (81' to 83' 280ZX internally regulated alternator into the 240Z, voltage regulator bypass plug) SCP or 240Z Sidemarker adaptor plugs $25 (converts front sidemarkers into sidemarker/T-S Flashers) LED sidemarker inserts $85 (4 inserts, 2 front amber and 2 rear red) LED Front Marker/Turn Signal conversion $110 (send your light assemblies to me and I convert them and send them back) (Conversion also includes cleaning entire assembly and polishing the lenses if needed) LED Taillight Conversion 240Z $250, 260Z/280Z $300 (send your light assemblies and small sub harness still attached, to me and I convert them and send them back) (Conversion also includes cleaning entire assembly and polishing the lenses if needed) And the chrome is cleaned and repainted if needed. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com or PM me for more info or ordering details. Dave

Pioneer, Kenwood and a few others make Low profile speakers in both Dual Cone and 2-way (tweeter and mid) versions. They work great in the small areas of the 240Z's. If you find another left hand bracket, you can rebend the mounting tab to work on the right side of the 240Z. Use a peice of plastic to sheild the magnet from the fuel lines and you'll be fine. You'll also have to run a second set of speaker wires from that speaker to the deck. If I recall correctly, you'll have to keep the antenna switch after removing the old deck, as it's a manual up and down antenna. You can, however, replace the stock antenna with a fully automatic power antenna that looks just like the stock unit and rewire it using the stock wires.

glad it worked, and now ya got a spare relay, just in case.

place the 2 relays next to each other, you'll see that the soldered terminals should line up. unsolder then all, slide the 280Z wires thru the new boot from the 260Z relay then solder the wires back onto the 280Z relay. That way you're still using a Known good relay with a better looking boot and the correct connector.

I found this from a link from SpeedHunters.com http://www.g-works-web.com/ And the book above (post 1) http://www.sun-a.com/magazine/details.html?id=3184 To buy it is about $23.12 (2100 yen)

Well, since nobody knows what you're driving (year, etc) then you'll continue to feel cold air.

I hear ya brother.. You're preachin to the choir. I'm so damn busy with the R/T's And other upgrades that the 260Z project is collecting dust, and many have asked me to keep posting my progress on cardomain, but I have nothing to report. Sorry bout your bad luck, maybe the Holidays will change that. Maybe??? Dave

NO. That is your Ballast resistor and needs a short path to the coil or distributor. If it could be placed under the dash, the Japanese would have done it 40 years ago.

That's basically the way most cars drive. No power steering so you gotta muscle it. Check your air pressure in the front tires as well. Low pressure on one side will make the car track in that direction. Dave

It's all there. B/Y is the starter wire B/W is the Ign. wire that powers the VR and guages etc. W/R is the main power iwre in. L/R is the Acc wire G/W powers the tach and resistor. that's all I can tell From reading the diagram. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. In the start position, The W/R powers the G/W and B/Y In the Ign position, The W.R powers the B/W and L/R

So they're either badges of Honor or "Takes a licken and keeps on tickin"? You own a Z, you'll stop working on it when you're dead or the car is sold, God Forbid... Welcome!! Most inhabitants here were once "Just Looking" and now they won't leave. HaHaHa!!! That's right, we lure you in with info and Lock ya in with pictures and good people. We're sneaky like that. Hope ya find everything ya need, and then some. Dave

No silver paint, just clean steel (Carburator cleaner/dip can) the rubber deteriated a long time ago. and any that was left, the cleaner took it off. There was enough grease on it to keep the metal somewhat protected and cleaned up real easy. It's all there on the door and catch of the body. The flash of the camera blinded it and you just can't see it.

http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Wiring/72_240z_wiring.pdf Your best bet, and I hate to sound like a party pooper, is to just buy a new dash harness or engine harness. If not new than at least in good condition. They are out there and it looks like you could really benefit from it. I highly suggest using the SEARCH button. It's helped me MANY times. Also check our classifieds for those harnes's. How bad was your harnesses that you decided on a different style harness? Good luck. Dave

heres a few....

Well, if you don't mind waiting 1 week, I'll likely have one available. If I don't hear from one of those 3 previously listed (2 posts back) then I'll set one aside for ya. As long as you promise to follow thru. But if you need one right now, Check your PM. Dave

Now that they are all gone or spoken for, I STILL haven't heard from ConchZ, Tarmac or Powerglide. I'm guessing they lost interest or are just too busy to respond. But I guess I'll have to go on a first come, first serve basis. If I don't hear from them in a week (by next sunday) I won't have a choice but to sell them. Not trying to rattle cages but PM's don't seem to be working. Dave

here's a link to Arne's thread, from when he tossed the sunroof for a solid roof. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30409 I will post a full thread on the process. Just by looking at Arne's body shop pics, I got a pretty good idea of where to start and how to finish. I'm staying away from the body line above the quarter windows and will likely cut about 2 inches higher than the stock line. And probably do the fronts following the curvature of the window line to the drip rails. Just wait and see. That's all I can say until I actually do it. And you said "Slid in like a Lamb" er, um, what the hell are you doing in your spare time? Do you need one of those bumper stickers that read...... "No animals were harmed in the making of this Z" LOL LOL Dave

Oh crap, I think I started something. Sorry Arne. Here's your 15 minutes of fame. Merry Christmas.. Dave

Unfortunately, Rubber is a product of oil (Pertolium product). The Urethane is more chemical resistant than the rubber counterpart. SO the $5 set from ES is abetter bet and they look pretty cool too. Dave

The electric fuel pump is better for priming the carbs where as the mechanical takes a little longer. So if you find your cranking the car longer than usual to get her started, it's likely the lack of the electric fuel pump, is to blame.