Zs-ondabrain

what she said, sounds like an Acc. relay or something along those lines.

Crisis Overted!!! Thanks you Mr. Post man... Good to hear it finally showed. That was weird. Must have took a trip around the world or something. 12 days is a long time. Anyways. SOLD!!!!!! ALL GONE, NO MORE, SOLD THE LAST 2 TODAY. The R/T Mounts are all gone. I delivered the last 2 to A member today. Even got a new roof skin for the 260Z in the process. Now I getta pull "An Arne" on my 260Z. I always wanted to coin a phrase after Arne. And now I have. Thanks Arne. Thanks to everyone who made this group buy possible. Dave.

Try http://www.rockauto.com for the Tie rod ends and Jegs or SummitRacing.com for the ES bushings. Dave

Good to hear, let us know when you get it in there. Spent all day working on Z Tyler Z's 280z. Last Saturday and today we replaced all 4 corners (Tokico Struts and Eibach PR Lowering springs with ES Urethane) We also swapped his Hi-Hat strut tops with the 240Z 1" lower tops. It's got a much better stance, doesn't weeble wobble down the road any more and you can't wipe the smile off his face. LOOOONG day, taking a shower and going to bed. Dave

It'll look better with a full set of 40DCOE's all polished and installed IN THE CAR.

Order the MOOG, they work great and are at a decent price, as well as replacable boots. But If I were you, I'd pick up a pair of ES Urethane Tie rod and ball joint cups. They're only about $5 a pair and won't deteriate like the rubber ones will. Plus they come in red, ewwwww ahhhhhh pretty colors.

Sold another one locally So there is only 3 left as of This morning (12/10/09) Still haven't heard Anything from ConchZ, Tarmac or Power glide. If you 3 don't want one, LET ME KNOW. So I can sell you'rs to someone who Does want one. Thanks. Dave

It's cool, Just figured ya might wanna meet another local 280Z owner, and watch me tear his Z apart. Let's figure out a day that doesn't suck (rain, snow, ice, etc) Dave

Fricken weather is putting a damper on just about everything. I'll be working on Z Tyler Z's 280Z on Friday, ALL day friday. You're more than welcome to stop by anytime. I have to finish the rear suspension for him. Rain on Sat or Sunday but after that, we should hook up and figure this out. Dave

I love the greaseless sanding compounds from eastwood. Great for cut-in and definantly quicker than hand sanding. I use everything at my disposal, Sandpaper and a block, DA with aluminum oxide sanding paper, wet-sanding and the easiest for me is a 6" sisal (spiral sewn with sewn in rope or something) it's very strong and used for steel and Stainless) I use that with red or black compound for my cut-in to remove casting marks and heavy lines. Then I switch to a standard spiral sew with red compound then swith to white. Then I go to a loose cotton with white then use only the loose buff for a final polish. Then I wash it in warm water with Dawn dish soap to remove all traces of compound. And then I can tell if I need to rebuff anything on the part. His technique Is the right way. Breaking down the surface levels till you get to the solid, buffable surface. It's very time consuming so don't get into it unless you're in for the long haul. If it's aluminum, and it's on my Z, it's probably polished. Dave

I like to use Easwoods Extreme diamond clear. Hi temp and pretty good at chemical resistance. Which makes it great for the engine compartment. http://www.eastwood.com/paints/clear-coats/ew-extreme-diamond-clear-8-oz.html

Thanks you. And keep in mind that the small parts were done with a 1/2 HP bench grinder with 6" buff pads. And the valve cover and some of the front cover were done with the same 6" buffs on a 4" hand grinder. But you have to keep constant contact to keep the RPM's down. I wanna grab anothe Unilite and polish it as well. We'll see. Dave

Time to quit calling and start showing up in person. He can BS you all he want over the phone but if you're in the shop, looking at your car and what hasn't been done, he can't pull the wool over your eyes. Buck up and be straight with him. Tell him to stop making excuses and finish the damn car. If he can't do that, then he can pay to have the car moved to a reputable shop that WILL do it right and on a decent time line. It's your money and Your car and he's screwing with both of them. Time to put your foot down. Dave

You really need this kit.... http://www.eastwood.com/buffing/metal-buffing/buff-motors/ew-10in-buff-shop-kit-w-3-4hp-variable-ew-motor.html Awesome price, great buffing motor, comes with a full kit including (6 compounds, 8 buffing wheels, face sheild, How-to-DVD, gloves, and a wheel rake.) I have something similar (bits and peices over a period of time) but when I get the money, I'm all over that kit. Here's some before and afters. The valve cover (from painted to stripped, to sanded to completely buffed in only 8 hours. Same with the front cover and oil pump. It's addicting and you'll find yourself buffing everything. Check my gallory (page 5 and 6 ) for my carb polishing Awesome work though, I did the same with my SU's and love 'em. They'll look right at home in your very clean engine bay. Dave

Lookin better every time I see it. Looks great Dylan. Dave

Good point and Info. Thanks Walter. Hate to this end up on the floor unless I lower it with a hoist. Dave

That's what the 1000 Watt stereo is for. Just in case my ears weren't already bleeding. And besides, that's what a volume knob is for. It's all for the wife anyways. She has a lovely voice but it shrills at higher volumes, so if I can help her NOT yell, then it's worth the extra money for the sound deadener. Then I'll shut it off and listen to the sweet sound of my new dual exhaust system when there's nothing on the radio. (Or CD or DVD or XM Sat radio) Dave

Weird, I've got grade 5 or 6 holding my current motor up on the stand and used the same bolts to hold my other 2.8 liter on the same stand for over 1.5 years. And that's with me torquing on the motor, hitting it on accident a few times and it being moved around the shop, All that was with 5 or 6 grade bolts. Nothing wrong with overkill but the 8's should more than suffice. Dave

For altering like Motorman7 did, I would just follow his lead. The mount was originally designed for the V8 Conversions but was found to work great on all other applications. However, moving the diff back would require you altering the mount by turning it around and redrilling like he did. I'll be installing an R/T on my 70' as well so the info you guys provide will likely be used by me as well. I have the R200 with the curved mustache bar, so it'll be interesting to see how this plays out. Thanks again guys. Dave

Kawi585, got your order and it'll be in the post office tomorrow morning. Dave

Disconnect the battery. It's only 3 weeks, so that should be the only thing you really need to do.

I think it's an M10 1.25 x 70mm?

Still got 4 left. Christmas is coming up fast. Know anyone who would want one for their Winter rebuild? It'll fit under the Tree. Still haven't heard from ConchZ, Tarmac or Powerglide. bpilati said after Jan 4th. Dave