Zs-ondabrain

Order the MOOG, they work great and are at a decent price, as well as replacable boots. But If I were you, I'd pick up a pair of ES Urethane Tie rod and ball joint cups. They're only about $5 a pair and won't deteriate like the rubber ones will. Plus they come in red, ewwwww ahhhhhh pretty colors.

Sold another one locally So there is only 3 left as of This morning (12/10/09) Still haven't heard Anything from ConchZ, Tarmac or Power glide. If you 3 don't want one, LET ME KNOW. So I can sell you'rs to someone who Does want one. Thanks. Dave

It's cool, Just figured ya might wanna meet another local 280Z owner, and watch me tear his Z apart. Let's figure out a day that doesn't suck (rain, snow, ice, etc) Dave

Fricken weather is putting a damper on just about everything. I'll be working on Z Tyler Z's 280Z on Friday, ALL day friday. You're more than welcome to stop by anytime. I have to finish the rear suspension for him. Rain on Sat or Sunday but after that, we should hook up and figure this out. Dave

I love the greaseless sanding compounds from eastwood. Great for cut-in and definantly quicker than hand sanding. I use everything at my disposal, Sandpaper and a block, DA with aluminum oxide sanding paper, wet-sanding and the easiest for me is a 6" sisal (spiral sewn with sewn in rope or something) it's very strong and used for steel and Stainless) I use that with red or black compound for my cut-in to remove casting marks and heavy lines. Then I switch to a standard spiral sew with red compound then swith to white. Then I go to a loose cotton with white then use only the loose buff for a final polish. Then I wash it in warm water with Dawn dish soap to remove all traces of compound. And then I can tell if I need to rebuff anything on the part. His technique Is the right way. Breaking down the surface levels till you get to the solid, buffable surface. It's very time consuming so don't get into it unless you're in for the long haul. If it's aluminum, and it's on my Z, it's probably polished. Dave

I like to use Easwoods Extreme diamond clear. Hi temp and pretty good at chemical resistance. Which makes it great for the engine compartment. http://www.eastwood.com/paints/clear-coats/ew-extreme-diamond-clear-8-oz.html

Thanks you. And keep in mind that the small parts were done with a 1/2 HP bench grinder with 6" buff pads. And the valve cover and some of the front cover were done with the same 6" buffs on a 4" hand grinder. But you have to keep constant contact to keep the RPM's down. I wanna grab anothe Unilite and polish it as well. We'll see. Dave

Time to quit calling and start showing up in person. He can BS you all he want over the phone but if you're in the shop, looking at your car and what hasn't been done, he can't pull the wool over your eyes. Buck up and be straight with him. Tell him to stop making excuses and finish the damn car. If he can't do that, then he can pay to have the car moved to a reputable shop that WILL do it right and on a decent time line. It's your money and Your car and he's screwing with both of them. Time to put your foot down. Dave

You really need this kit.... http://www.eastwood.com/buffing/metal-buffing/buff-motors/ew-10in-buff-shop-kit-w-3-4hp-variable-ew-motor.html Awesome price, great buffing motor, comes with a full kit including (6 compounds, 8 buffing wheels, face sheild, How-to-DVD, gloves, and a wheel rake.) I have something similar (bits and peices over a period of time) but when I get the money, I'm all over that kit. Here's some before and afters. The valve cover (from painted to stripped, to sanded to completely buffed in only 8 hours. Same with the front cover and oil pump. It's addicting and you'll find yourself buffing everything. Check my gallory (page 5 and 6 ) for my carb polishing Awesome work though, I did the same with my SU's and love 'em. They'll look right at home in your very clean engine bay. Dave

Lookin better every time I see it. Looks great Dylan. Dave

Good point and Info. Thanks Walter. Hate to this end up on the floor unless I lower it with a hoist. Dave

That's what the 1000 Watt stereo is for. Just in case my ears weren't already bleeding. And besides, that's what a volume knob is for. It's all for the wife anyways. She has a lovely voice but it shrills at higher volumes, so if I can help her NOT yell, then it's worth the extra money for the sound deadener. Then I'll shut it off and listen to the sweet sound of my new dual exhaust system when there's nothing on the radio. (Or CD or DVD or XM Sat radio) Dave

Weird, I've got grade 5 or 6 holding my current motor up on the stand and used the same bolts to hold my other 2.8 liter on the same stand for over 1.5 years. And that's with me torquing on the motor, hitting it on accident a few times and it being moved around the shop, All that was with 5 or 6 grade bolts. Nothing wrong with overkill but the 8's should more than suffice. Dave

For altering like Motorman7 did, I would just follow his lead. The mount was originally designed for the V8 Conversions but was found to work great on all other applications. However, moving the diff back would require you altering the mount by turning it around and redrilling like he did. I'll be installing an R/T on my 70' as well so the info you guys provide will likely be used by me as well. I have the R200 with the curved mustache bar, so it'll be interesting to see how this plays out. Thanks again guys. Dave

Kawi585, got your order and it'll be in the post office tomorrow morning. Dave

Disconnect the battery. It's only 3 weeks, so that should be the only thing you really need to do.

I think it's an M10 1.25 x 70mm?

Still got 4 left. Christmas is coming up fast. Know anyone who would want one for their Winter rebuild? It'll fit under the Tree. Still haven't heard from ConchZ, Tarmac or Powerglide. bpilati said after Jan 4th. Dave

That whole game started back in the 70's. The BIG 3 (Chrysler, Ford and Chevy) were losing money to the Japanese and their Hi MPG imports. So to offset their losses, they each invested into different foreign car companies. Ford invested in Mazda (Ford Courier = Mazda B2000) Chevy Invested in Isuzu (Chevy Luv = Isuzu Pup ) Chrysler/Dodge invested in Mitsubishi (Dodge Stealth = Mitsubishi 3000GT) So with investments in foreign cars, the Big 3 stopped losing money due to the Gasoline crunch of the 70's. Mitsubishi has slowly bought back most of their company from Chrysler as Chrysler picked up sales and loss interest in rebadging foreign auto's. Off the top of my head, here's where it stands........ Daimler/Chrysler owns: -AMC (brand discontinued) -Chrysler -Dodge -Eagle (brand discontinued) -Hyundai (Daimler/Chrysler only owns 10%) -Jeep -Maybach -Mercedes-Benz -Mitsubishi (Daimler/Chrysler owns 37%) -Plymouth (brand discontinued) -Smart Ford owns: -Aston Martin -Ford -Jaguar -Land Rover (bought from BMW) -Lincoln -Mazda (Ford owns 33% of Mazda) -Mercury -Volvo cars General Motors owns: -Buick -Cadillac -Chevrolet -Daewoo (GM owns 44%) -Fiat (GM owns ~20%) -Fuji Heavy Industries (GM owns ~20%) -GMC -Holden -Hummer -Isuzu (GM only owns a percentage) -Oldsmobile (brand discontinued) -Opel -Pontiac -Saab -Saturn -Subaru (GM owns 20%) -Suzuki (GM only owns a small percentage) -Vauxhall Just a little FYI for your Monday Morning. Back to the subject at hand. Dave

Depends on the process. There are Sound deadening mats and Spray. Undercoating is a SDM (sound deadening material) just like the mat's but sprayable. I'll be using a sprayable SDM in the diglegs, tool boxes and quarter panels, where ya just can't reach in and hand lay or roll mat. The Doglegs are my main concern, as they are usually an untouched area and have enough panel to be noisy. My 260Z will sound as quiet as a new car on the inside, when I'm done. Dave

During Christmas and other "Going broke" holidays, Humor is my only path of Sanity. If I didn't crack a joke here or there, every once in a while, I'd probably cry. Dave.

You need "Half Moon" spacers. It's basically a 1/2" thick washer, with 1/2 of the circle diameter shaved to 1/4". The 1/4" part is for the intake manifold side and the 1/2" side would be for the header side. I had to use those on the 71' Z that I used to have. Worked like a charm. Dave

I'll be doing the same thing and also into the dogleg area's where I can't reach by hand.. Also, if it's the same guy that's taking a year to paint your car, tell him NOT to paint or coat the window or lock mechanisms, when he sprays in there. A YEar? Seriously? Dave

Modern Day cars, Yes. 33 years old Datsuns, no. Ya learn something new everyday. Have a great week, Dave

nothing weird there. that's typical of Every S30. That explains a lot of dented garage doors, eh? Dave