Zs-ondabrain

It's my pleasure Chuck. Let's just add $10 to the $60 and that should cover it. Hopefully. And Cash is awesome. Especially when dealing with Canadian Money orders and such. Just make sure your address is clearly printed on your order so your order is not delayed. Thanks again, Dave

So by my count, After all 33 of the listed names have purchased their R/T mount, I will have 17 R/T mounts left. So If you're interested, but holding out, you may run out of time quickly, as they seem to be going fast. But don't make any rash decisions. Read every post and be sure of your purchase before going forward with your order. I also want to Thank everyone for their orders and promises of orders thus far. It's all for you guys at this point. I might be able to afford one myself if I sell the remaining 17. I know my 240Z will be so much better off with one versus my bad stock mount and strap. Dave

Don't know, haven't got it yet. Yup, got it today, thank you very much Mark. I quess I should have put it in big bold red letters. Oh well, If I was doing it only for money, I might be upset. But I'm obviously not so I'll live. Just 1 less Monster Import Energy Drink for the wife. She needs them to keep up with me. hahaha. JonnyRock, Thanks man, if ya got time, just deliver it yourself. You know you need a relaxing road trip and ya probably miss me too. Right? Thanks guys, Dave

Well, Just got back from the metal shop and paid a portion on the Mounts. But now I'm in the hole because Even though I specified CASH, USPS POSTAL Money Orders, or Wal-Mart Money Orders. Some insisted on Western Union, Personal and other forms, to pay me. It cost me $5 to cash anything other than what I requested as payment. Yes, It's my own fault because I haven't cleared up things with my last bank, and the check cashing place charges me for my own stupidity. It just cost me $20 to cash 4 checks and money orders. So when I said I might make a few dollars on each one, that's now been changed to "I will not make barely anything on this venture" so it's all about you guys at this point. So if that doesn't show my love for you guys, nothin will. Everythings been updated to this point and I will update again later today, when the postman shows up. Dave

You'll find a lot of the neede3d RB info i=on HybridZ.org. as they do a lot of SR and RB swapping over there. We're all Z nuts, so you'll fit right in. You'll also find that the 240Z is a more preferred S30 around here. 260Z's are a P.I.T.A. (as I speak from experience) but still a good car. All Z's are welcome here so if you got questions, use the search button. You'll find that what ever it is you have in mind, has probably been discussed. Dave

Sorry. The flange is the peice that is Bolted to the stub axle on the Strut assembly. The Stub axle is the peice that the wheel bolts to. It has the 4 wheel studs and is held into the strut assembly via 2 large bearings and a 1-1/16" large nut. The axles are bolted to the flange with 4 small studs and nuts. Make sure it's the flange that is loose and not the U-joints on the axles. Hold the flange and try twisting the axle to see if the u-joints are bad.

Thanks Peter, just updated everything on post #65. Thanks Guy, I hope they meet your high standards. And if so, You got a couple more Z's that might love this bracket. But lets get one in your Z first to see how ya like it. Dave

That's totally Cheating, But I like the way you think... I got 5 kids here, think I can get them to show the "Circled Items" to grandma?

With it jacked up, put the wheel back on and try the side to side movement. This will tell you if the bearing are also going out. Your splines that lock the hub to the axle sound worn. You can try and tighten the nut more and see if that helps but once they are worn, that's about it, time to replace. This usually happens from a long period of the hub being loose against the axle shaft. When people put these back together, they don't always put the required 150 or 200 Foot pounds of torque on the nut. This results in worn parts and your now needed replacement parts. Ask around for a good hub and see if the newer hub is tight or if you also need to replace the stub axle as well. No time like the present to replace or repack your wheel bearings. Good luck, Dave

That's Crazy talk. I can't imagine a Woman of your brains and Beauty not being wanted around here. I know some of us can get out of hand with dumb comments of a female nature, but you have much to offer in the Z world. We'd be stupid to Jepardize that. Welcome back, I know I missed ya. Dave

Reducing the amperage thru the ssystem can also help in this case. Follow NissanMans advice and pulling and cleaning bulbs and sockets, and the fuse/bulb test. But, you can also upgrade to an Electronic Flasher. The stock flashers are thermal and require resistance to operate. The electronic flashers use a circuit board and flash electronicly and require much less amperage to operate. They are about $12, hook a ground wire to the (-) terminal and I think the white wire is the + and green is the Load? And on a different note...... BARBIE!! Where the heck ya been? and How Ya been? Long time no see. What happened to your 73'? You're Lookin good, I quess thing DO get better with age. eh? Dave

Thanks Arne, My computer was doing 20 updates today and I couldn't get anything to work quickly. Was anyone else having trouble getting anything done on CZCC today? Also, DiseaZd and SSuspect, Got your orders and payments today. I also updated your Status on post #65 Thanks again Arne,Guy and Tim, Dve

OK, I've updated and added your names to the list. Haven't heard back from nahurry, Phred or pbarcher yet. Just need to know if money is on the way or not, that's all. This is going great so far. I just spoke with The Metal guy and he said the Final design is set in stone and being made as we speak. He also said I should be able to pick up at least half the order by Monday or Tuesday. Here's what he sent me. Dave White wolf wire works bracket#2[1].pdf

When I first rebuilt th 240Z, The drums insisted on NOT coming off. Guess I showed that drum who was boss, huh? Dave Didn't have a torch, but I sure as hell had a sharp drill bit on my 18Volt drill

Use a torch on the outer drums flat spots (around and between the studs) but not on the center. Heating the aluminum drum should help expand it to clear the center hub peice. Typically, the steel and aluminum weld themselves together with rust and corrosion. Sometimes the heat and some sharp blows can loosen the hold. Is the drumm loose and won't come off because it's catching on the pads? Or is the drum solid on the hub as if being held by rust? One of those answers will help us help you. Dave

Some of this will be :stupid: obvious so consider it a "Check list" Inspect the vaccum hose from the intake's ballance tube, to the firewall, then from that valve to the big vac booster behind the master cylinder. You can also pull both end off and test that valve on the firewall, air should only go toward the motor and not towards the vac booster. Replace if bad. Pads are cheap and easy to instal. Bleed the hell out of all 4 corners. Once the brakes are bled and the fluid is topped off, try the brakes again. Master Vac Boosters can and do go out. You can also check the push rod on the backside of the pedal. Use a 12mm? open end wrench and crack it loose. Spin the rod clock-wise so the rod goes towards the booster, but make sure the rod still has enough teeth on the pedal bracket to not fall off, then retighten. Look for leaks around the Master Cylinder (MC) and the firewall behind the booster. might be time for a new MC. They're pretty cheap (around $30 or $40) and cheaper if you use your old resevoirs on the new MC. Just clean the hell out of them before swapping them out. You can also adjust the outer rod of the booster into the MC but make sure they are Just Touching each other. You can gauge this by using some thick grease on the end of the rod and see how smooshed the grease is when you pull the MC back off. Hope this helps, at least a little. Dave

SteveE and GreenZZZ, I got your order in today and updated post #65. Thanks guys. Scotts Pearl... Like the guys said, Yes. And the bump stop is on post #52 and here's the Jegs page on it... Click this.. P/N 9-9101R or B Bump Stop and they're only $9 +S/H ol'red70, Thank you. Dave

If you wanna come out to Marysville, I got a set or 2 you can have. Near exit 200 off I-5 Dave

Here's a whole page of P/N's for ya. I think the Tie rod ends and ball joints are the same P/N? not sure and can't remember. http://energysuspension.com/search-result.html?make=24&model=386&year=1971

wow, and that's just the Prototype. He said the actual peices will have bigger and longer welds, ovaled holes for a less tolerant S30 (they're not all exactly the same) and a few other details. If you like that one, you'll love the final product. I'll put ya down for one Andy. Thanks man, Dave

Hey Phred, Sorry bout that, you're on the list now. Had a brain-fart Dave

That's a crossmember for a transmission. 260Z and 280Z I believe. You can see it on my trans, under the caliper in the 2nd picture. Dave

Just checked the mail. Got 5 more orders in and updated the names and status on Post #65. Thanks again guys. The New pictures of the Prototype are on Post #78 Dave

Absolutely Not. This is 3/16" steel. I can't imagine any 400HP or less motor bending this at all. The back plate is also welded on the sides and top. And if by some weird chance it did bend, I'd like to know what the hell is under the hood. I think you'd snap an axle, U-joint or something else before that would happen. Good question though, Dave