Zs-ondabrain

Just took pics for ya. Should help ya find the right one. Cost way less than an OEM or NOS part and works probably better for years longer. As you can see, a little sanding inside the rubber boot and it slides in perfect. The white wire of the pump goes to the black/yellow and the black pump wire to the black wire on the harness. 69-310-380 is the part number on the back, won't promise that it'll help but there it is. Dave

I had the same issue but mine was rust had eaten the tab insde the pump cap and then the motor fill with fluid. I took the old pump and the rubber boot that it sits in, to the local Auto parts store. I can't remember off hand what car it's for but I found a small pump with a black rotor cap that almost fit perfectly. I bought it, took it home and used my dremmel with a sanding drum on it to widen the inner diameter of the rubber boot to fit the new pump motor. Everyhting fits, lokks and works perfect. I'll take a picture later on to help you find the right motor from the auto parts store. (about $10 I think)

The alt's condensor eliminates spikes and engine noise in the radio, for the most part. Not totally needed. Not sure why the headlights stay on with the white/red off but like the doctor says "If it hurts when you do that, DON'T do that" Leave it connected. The ammeter that you have is for a 40 amp alternator, you now have a 60 amp alternator. So the meter will peg occasionally, no big deal. Headlights use more amperage than most other circuits in the Z. It will cause the power wires to heat up. no big deal. But I HIGHLY SUGGEST the HLH Headlight Upgrade harness that I sell. It will draw power from the battery, directly, for the headlights, instead of thru the fusebox and combo switch. Which is what makes your power wire heat up in the first place. Same thing with the Parking light circuit. (PLH-Hint Hint) The PLH is a Parking light upgrade ahrness to stop the fusebox from melting the 3rd fuse down on the right. And Ground that loose black ground wire. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com if you're interested in the HLH or PLH Dave

The dual pump set-up helps with the occasional dreaded "Vapor lock" that the cars experienced every once in a while. Hot conditions were the main cause. Vapo lock pushed the fuel backwards with a standard mechanical pump. The electric pump prevents that from happening. If the pump works, with a new filter inserted and a new external filter, then use it. I have a 260Z as well. Check out the total rebuild with the link in my signiture below. There is a picture or 3 of the pump and filter set-up on pages 1, 4 and 5. Dave

Where's Bruce when ya need him? Check with www.ztherapy.com

A "Clip" is a section of a vehicle, kinda like a rear quarter clip, which would include the quarter panel, as far forward as the dogleg by the door, up near the roof where the hatch meets is and around the back corner. A front clip would be everything forward of the firewall or half of that (Left or right side) As for the battery tray, most 240Z's that need battery tray repair are best off cutting one out of a junker 280Z. Usually have less rust and are stronger due to better steel, folds and less age. I did this by cutting the spot welds with a spot weld drill bit. but a 3/8" bit works pretty good. Level the car then use a level on the tray when you tach it in place. By the way, Gary and Adam said basically the same thing I did. Cut out the rust and cut a matching patch from your used clip. Dave

I know Mikes a pretty busy guy (web site, new baby, Z car, etc, etc) but this could actually be a good money venture for the club. But it would take Mike saying "Go with it" before we could really do anything. Mike? Anyone? Dave

I would personally cut a small "Patch" panel from the spare clip and weld that in instead. You'll keep the integrity of the original, use POR15 over the panel on the inner wheel well side of the sheet metal, and POR15 the battery area as well after you've ground it down to a clean finish. Lot less work, strong sheet metal and protected from further issues. Then Re-undercoat the inner wheel-well and paint the engine compartment. Know one will know but you, (and maybe me) ha-ha Dave

I know this is an older thread but has anyone considered taking on a side project? I know I would personally buy a bunch of stuff. Anyone? Mike? someone?

That's what I'm here for, sorry again. Dave The attached pictures show what I did with mine, and after pulling the tank, discovered the need for more undercoating where the tank sits. The last picture shows some of the new undercoating on the drivers side. But you can really see the need for that "Extra" care I'm gonna put into it. Been knocking off large scare rust then POR15'ing those spots and undercoating as I go. The flash on the last pic doesn't do the actual panel justice.

I already tore the bumper struts off the 260Z and ran into the same problem. The tank needs to come out, No way around it. Sorry!! And there's no easy way to slip it out of the way either. You have to remove (unstrap) the filler neck, the rear hose, the front 3 hoses, the drivers side hose and the tank straps. No time like the present to tear into is and clean everything up, replace hoses if needed and what ever else you wanna do. Dave

Not likely. Pull the drain plug on the bottom of the tank and inspect the fuel that comes out. Look for red fluid (rust), particles, water (it'll sink to the bottom of the inspection bowl, that you use) You can also pull the sending unit and visually inspect it that way. If you find that the tank is full of rust or similar issues, then pull it and use the search button here at CZCC to find many write ups on cleaning and repairing your existing tank. Or look around the classifieds (here, Craigslist, ebay) for another one. Disconnect all the fuel lines, wrap one end of each line with a shop rag and tape it off before you blow out the lines with a compressor. This will stop the fuel from flying all over and also allow you to see what was in the lines, before you decide what to do with them. These are small, effortless things that you can do that will likely save you more time and money in the future. Dave

After all this time, I'd say New Plugs, wires, cap, rotor and condensor. All easily replaced parts and won't blow the wallet up in the process. Dump the old oil and filter for new 10/30 weight and a decent FRAM oil filter? or what ever is common in the UK. Dump the old fuel and clear the fuel lines and clean out the float bowls then replace the fuel filter. Fill the tank only 1/2 way (about 6 gallons) with mid to super grade. THEN try and start her up. (Adding about 2 ounces of fuel to each float bowl will decrease the starting (cranking) time. If your spark and all is good. Check the Coil as well. Not sure of the history of the car thus far, but doing the above definately Won't hurt the car. Dave

I've always heard that the typical (Ideal) fuel pressure for the S.U.'s is about 3 lbs. I only ran 4 to 4.5 for my Triple 40DCOE Webers. if that tells you anything..... A decent regulator from Spectre? is about $20 or less. It's the dial top with 3/16" in/out's FWIW Dave

You're all preaching to the Choir. I go to local show all the time and I rarely see any other Z's, except 350Z's. But no other Classics. And Yup, it's pretty funny watching all the Classic Chevy and Ford owners getting ticked that everyone is googling over my JAPANESE Sports car. pics included....... Dave.

Actually, It's called the "Parking light Upgrade harness" As the sidemarkers, dash lights, front markers and rear taillights are ALL on the same circuit. The PLH is a very simple instal...... Just remove the fuse, mount the power wire to the battery's (+) post, run the power wire thru the firewall bood (engine harness boot) and over to the steering column. Remove the steering column cover, unplug the combo (headlight switch) run the "T" harness over the column and plug it into the open combo switch connectors. Then remove the relay from the socket, insert the power wire terminal into the relay socket's outermost hole until it clicks in place. Then remove the steering column bolt that sits closets to you, on the left hand side. Run that bolt thru the ring terminal on the ground wire then thru the relay tab. Mount the relay to the underside using the bolt, tighten down and you're done.. Replace the fuse into the fuse-holder at the battery and Test it out. The Upgrade will stop ALL the hi amperage that normally goes thru the Fusebox and combo switch. Enjoy!! And Yes, I'm the guy that makes all the upgrades on MSA's "New Technologies" page. Except the fusebox, that's not mine. Dave

I think the hazards have a fuse. Check the fusebox. My hazard switch has a temper as well, I have to wiggle it to make it work and when I shut it off, I have to wiggle it again to make my turn signals work correctly. Dave

MUCH BETTER Mike. Looks like ya just came in from the garage?? I'm guessing yes. Now ya gotta get the other one looking that good. (The Z you had at the car show 2 sundays ago....) Good to see you and the wife again. Dave And Leah

My picture isn't as pretty as yours but welcome to the "filled my garage with Z's" Club. Congrats on the new addition. I can't wait till both of mine are drivable. Dave

So what is the question? If you wait for someone to say they live in Minnesota, it could be a while before you get an answer. So let's have it. How can we help? Dave

Is that what that was? I thought it was more like one of those 'GOOD GAME" smacks on the arse from the coach. Or something like that. I was actually hoping it WOULD end there and "Nobody would say anything else. But we all know that would be wishfull thinking. I'm actually more interested in the car, the facts and the latest update. More than what HS30 has to ramble about. Apology accepted and not even the slightest bit upset. Have a great week-end everyone.. Dave

Here, Here brother, by the way, its HLS30-00013. Thought I'd throw that in there, just cause I can. Being the American chest Beating kinda guy that I am. Dave And by the way, It WAS "all about making money." After all, That's why 99% of business's are IN business. MONEY. Plain and simple. Hope to get some actual updates here soon.

I think what most of you "Questioners of the truth" are failing to realize is the Significance of the find. The find, being Zcar # HLS30-00013, as stated on many sites as well as Carls, is "THE FIRST 240Z SOLD TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC IN THE UNITED STATES"........ #1 thru 12 were used in testing, premiers and publications. They were NOT to be sold to the General public. 240Z #13 was to be the Very first unit, of the first Boat load, to be sold to John Q. Public. Period. This is what makes it such a Significant Find. We're not talking UK versions. We're not talking Europe, Asia, Australia or anywhere else in the friggin world. We're talking about the Very first, US Sold 240Z, to the public. Period. We're not saying we don't appreciate the UK finds or significance. We're talking United States of America. That's it, That's all. As for "What's it worth" that we'll hear for the next 20 friggin pages, it goes without saying that "Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder"..... The car is worth what the highest price paid says it's worth, and that's completely up to the future buyer and the present owner. And there's NO in between. It does'nt take a Rocket Scientist to figure these things out. I was personally offered $18,000 for my 70' 240Z (HLS30-08077) which has no more historical significance than any other Z above the #500 vin mark. The fact was that the person who offered the $18K LOVED Everything that I had done to the car and wanted it as I HAD MADE IT!!! All the above will either be agreed with or Scoughed at. I don't care either way. As facts are facts and opinions are opinions, to each his own. Dave