Zs-ondabrain

I hope I'll be there, I already printed out the form and it goes in the mail on Monday morning. Hope to see a bunch of you there, my mom lives just around the corner from there. So I'll be there after visiting mom. Dave and Leah

Ya, it knew it was you. Just wanted to see if you played it off as if it wasn't you. My friends call me "Captain Obvious" cause I'm able to catch obvious thing that most others don't. After looking at both profiles, I noticed both of you acted about 31 years old, both own a 73' and both live in the Bay area. Logic says you are the same person or know each other. I opted for the "Same person" theory. So being as how I re-read my post, I saw how one could take it as "Harsh" so I apologized. But coming back with "Purist Circlejerk" without explaining that it was you, or that you thought the comment was offensive, was rude and wrong and seemed to be pointed at EVERYONE. Where as a Circlejerk would include more than just one person. Are we done yet? Or should we continue this charade?

I think you need the driveline from the ZX and turn your stock crossmember back to front, (spin 180 degrees) I think, don't take my word for it, I was hoping others would chime in. Dave

So now I'm a Purist? Dude, You don't even know me. If you did, you'd retract that stupid a$$ statement in a heartbeat. Considering what I do for a living and some of the things I've done to Z cars in the past. Did you have something useful to say or are ya REAL sure that Nissan NEVER put a rear sway bar on any US 240Z's? Are ya real sure or do ya just make up shite to make yourself feel better? Take your comments elsewhere, Dave

Now see there, I think I can actually do Aug 29th. where as the 7th of Sep was a no-go. I'll check with the Secretary and go from there. She might actually want a day off before the kidsw go back to school. Dave

That's awesome and all but I don't own a Delorean, so I can't go back to 2008. Is there a Poster for 2009??? Dave

79' ZX 5-speed has been nothing but Awesome in my 240Z. Great low end and 5th gear gets me Great MPG on the freeway. I basically do 2950 RPM's at 80MPH, which leaves a lot of pedal around 100MPH I'm sure a few other will give the specifics on what is needed for the conversion. (cross-member, driveline, etc.) Dave

And I'm pretty sure that Nissan Techs used MM to measure their parts. and 17mm is close to 5/8" FWIW Dave AF240Z, I apologize if the above comment seemed offensive. And as for Auxilary, I've personally not seen any 17mm front bars. It's not something I look for on other peoples cars. I have however seen MANY 19, 23 and 25mm bars in front. And 17 and 19mm in the rear. Brackets were welded onto the frame from the factory from around mid 72' and up and a few very late 240Z's got the same REAR sway bar as the early 260Z. And my EARLY 260Z came with a Factory rear sway bar as well.

Welcome to the Wonderful world of the Z car. And when you get it all sorted out, you'll be an officianoto on 260Z wiring and others will come to YOU for a change.... Before you start tearing into the dash, Physically pull each of the bulbs stated before (7 small dash bulbs, 4 side markers, 2 front marker lights and the top bulbs on both taillights) test the bulbs, inspect the housings and the sockets and associated wiring around them. After you do this, you'll know that each bulb and area has been fully inspected and good. ALSO!!! test the green wire associated with each bulb to see if the problem is in that bulb. You never know what you'll find. Could be something simple and you won't have to tear the whole dash out either. email me for that diagram Dave

it looks like you have a unilite Dizzy (Infra-red) The ballast resistor is wired correctly and I think the blue wire with a ring terminal goes to the other side of the coil but having that dizzy in there throw a curve ball at it. Do some research here and at www.HybridZ.org on 260Z's and Unilite dizzy's. As for the Blue wire w/ black sleeving, located near the coil wire in Pic #1. That's your AC Pump activation wire. ignore it if you don't have AC (air conditioning) And if you would finally Email me instead of PM'ing me, you would already have the 260Z shop diagram I have waiting for you. It's too big to post here and can only be emailed from my yahoo address. Also, pan out a little on the next picture so I can see where each wire goes. Don't forget that most or all 260Z's came with a transister ignition box located in the passenger side footwell. It may have to be bypassed and that's why your tach don't work. Not real sure on this one. Dave

not true. I have 225/50VR16's on 16x8 wheels w/ 0 offset and it only rubbed after I lowered the car a little bit. I then rolled the top section of the fender lip to lose that sharp edge and all is good. This is on a 70' 240Z. A heavier 280Z may experience more rubbing than ussual. Then again, personal experiences may vary. Dave

It should. BUT.... if one of those wires are grounded, and causing the fault in the first place, adding a positive may get you a whole different, unwanted, light. So check the wires to see if you have a zero ohm reading on either one. if one has a solid ground, that's the problem wire. try that Dave

Typical set-up is 19mm in front and 17mm?? in the rear. The weight of the front, with motor, works better with a larger bar in front. I have a 23mm in front and a 19mm in the rear, on my 240Z. My 260Z is getting a 25mm in front and a 19 in rear, toppled with KYB struts and Eibach Progressive rate lowering springs with Energy suspension Urethan everywhere. HT(Hope This Helps) Dave

I think he meant that the 16" x 8" and 7.5" can get away with a zero off-set without rubbing the spring perch. ?? Dave

Pause the "240Z new exhaust" video at 6 seconds. you should be able to see that it's a rolled edge crimp assembly. I've backfired a few time (timing was off a bit) and it help strong. still looks good after 3 years as well. I think it's aluminized steel. But just keep in mind that it was an "ON SALE" muffler, 3 years ago. you get what you pay for in this business, but I think I got a hell of a deal so far. everybody loves the sound and it seems to be holding up to my lead foot. Even sounds better than the 800 watt stereo on occation. Dave

I think the green/blue is supposed to be hot (+) Start looking for loose connections, melted or frayed wires. if you have power at both sides of the parking light fuse, then the power issue is between the fusebox and the switch. a short run for looking for a bad wire or connector.

I only spent $20 at Schuck (Kragen / Checker) for a Raptor Turbo Muffler and everyone that has heard it, says they absolutely love the sound. I have a 6 into 1 ceramic coated head and 2.5" exhaust back to the Raptor Muffler. Here's a couple examples, but they don't do the Real sound justice.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/vbtube_show.php?do=tube&tubeid=54&t=33292 Click on the first video titled "240Z new exhaust" I tried to link it but it has the letters d.i.c.k. in it and the programming on CZCC won't display it cause it thinks it's a swear word. dumb..... http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=240z+new+exhaust&search_type=&aq=f and floored at 6500RPM....

No doubt, that's pretty damn funny. Even better would be Sammy Hagars "I can't drive 55" At least that would make more sense. Dave

16x8 with 225/50R 16's is about the best you can do without mods. I have that combo on my 240Z

Tried what? Do you have power at either of the green wires on the headlight switch? Did you jump the two wires together and see if that works? What have you done? Did you use a test light on both sides of the parking light fuse? (third fuse down on the right.)

Ace, What you're describing is a typical Parking light circuit failure. 90% of us have had to deal with it. The Dash lights, front and rear sidemarkers, front marker lights, rear taillights and License plate light are all on the same circuit. Start at the switch (combo switch / headlight switch) Check the green/white and green/blue wires at the switch, located on the top of the switch assembly, next to the white and red headlight wires. Everything I'm stating is located on the steering column. If the wires look good, run a test wire from the green/white to the green/blue, using the solder joints on the switch. If the lights kick on, your combo switch is bad and needs to be replaced. You can also just see if you have power on either green wires. if you do, then the colprit is still likely the switch. Dave

Buy a new electronic flasher unit (3 terminal) ground the (-) or (E) Then connect the white wire to the (L) and the green to the (+) Make sure all your connections are tight. The electronic flasher will use less current and flash consistanly without all of the amperage that is normally required bu the old "Thermal" style flasher. Try that and see if it works. They run about $15 and one of the best upgrades I can suggest for the price. Dave

Rich, I bow down to you Sir. That is some Beautiful work you've done. My 70 will Never look like that again but I can only hope that the 260Z is even a shadow of what your Z represents to the Z community. That is a Gorgeous Z. Dave. PS. You can can keep track of my very slow progress on Cardomain. Link is below.

Reconnect the slave cylinder and push the clutch pedal in to give your self an INTERNAL push and seperation, using the clutch fork and throw out bearing as a wedge. I had the Same problem once, it would NOT seperate, until I pushed the clutch pedal in and it popped (seperated) apart easily. Good luck, Dave

If I remember correctly, Connect the red to the Blue/White, for a counter clockwise rotation. Look at the 2 (+) symbles on the motor plug. The blue/white wire as a (+) will turn it CCW and blow air towards the heater core assembly.